I want to install a direct port N2O set up on my Super ram using NX shark nozzels and was wondering if others have done the same. I currently run a single wet system using a shark nozzle between the MAF and TB it's ok but not enough.

I can go with nozzels fed by a rail or by a dist blocks and stainless steel lines. What are your experiences with rails vs. blocks and many lines?

I was thinking of trying to hide it under the plenum and rails may not fit.

 

you wont be able to hide it under the rails. the are to long. your best bet would b to us the dist blocks. let me know if you need anything. i am an nx dealer...

 

The rail system is too long and bulky to have enough room to plumb it under the intake. There will be hardly any space between the rails and nozzles.

Distribution block(s) and a lot of patients.

 

Drew - I'll pm you or email. I would like to discuss my idea and see what can be done.

I saw this BBC fogger set up on ebay and started thinking.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3AAAQ%3AUS%3A1

Free Bird- your right i hope it doesn't look like spagetti when it's done.

I'm mostly worried about controlling a custom N20 set up.

 

Stab it and steer it. That's all the controll you need.

 

use rails, the reason behind them is equal distance to the nozzle. with dist. blocks, the lines are of different lenghts, and therefore different resitance, and different flow. this may seem like a small variance, but it is a variance, and alot of the idea behind rails. there is also the idea of the rail being a sort of pleneum.

 

rails dunt fit undur de intaik.

 

can you fit a kit under a stealthram intake?

 

maybe........ shhhhhh...

 

So the "shark" flavored nozzels that have the fuel and N20 comming out of the same hole or at least the same machined part will be a tight fit but these look interesting.
Any body have any experience with these type of nozzels

 

or this

 

It is against the law in California for people your age to use N2O. Put the nozzles down now!

 

Looks like both of those are for a dry kit. NOS has a kit that uses little fittings but you have to drill twice as many holes and it's only adjustable to 250hp. The true fogger nozzle system can be jetted up to as much as you want.

 

Look into the pirahna Nozzles from NX. They take up much less room than a shark nozzle.
Dave

 

This is the NOS stuff. The blue ones use jets and is HP limited by jet size and solenoid. ($10 ea nozzel + $5jets x 16 = $240 in nozzel and jet harware alone) The other one is a fixed port size but is smaller and good for a first stage as an example.

I currently have the NX shark nozzel plumbed before the TB. I'll need to pull my SR plenum to know for sure if anything can fit under there. So I'm looking for others that have experience with these other types of nozzels.

How close can the nozzels be to the chamber? What is the difference of "shark type" nozzel vs. individual nozzels and there distance from the chamber? FOr instance, does the "shark types" combining of the gas and N2O create a better spray and can be placed closer to the piston as opposed the single nozzels combining their gases in the runner needing some disatance to be more effective?

 

Have you thought about putting spray bars inside the intake. We do this alot in cases like yours.
Dave

 

The nozzles that mixes n2o is better. The 2 that mix in the runner aren't as efficient and are limited to around 250hp.

 

Yes I have thought about using the huge plenum area.

Spray bars? Like what I see under carbs? Tell me more Dave!

What would the rails (large) or spray bars(smaller maybe?) and all that material do to the air flow? I was even thinking of machining a plate to go between the runners and the plenum like what I see under carbs.

Thanks for the info Free Bird. I'm thinking 250hp as a goal and of coarse that will only suffice until I get beat so I'd like to plumb it for more and have that going for me.

I'm not afraid of the plumbing or anything I'm more worried about it going BOOM. So I'll be using a controller.

 

this is my plan when Iget around to it. Totally hidden.

 

another

 

wow, did you do that yourself?
edit: nevermind i read your post

 

How are you hiding the lines feeding the nozzles? Are you drilling the back of the block. How are you hiding the solenoids? Under the dash?

 

well I have 2 choices for hiding the lines and solienods, 1 is with he lines exiting through the back of the intake and then into the firewall and along the passenger side to the A/C delete box where the soleniods where be mounted inside of it. that is the easy of the two. my second method will be much more difficult. Instead of having the two fittings plumbed into the intake, I will have them plumbed into the back of the engine block under the bellhousing where they will not be noticed AT ALL. I have not decided where I will mount the soleniods if I go that route though. Oviously, that route will require me to remove the engine to drill and tap the 2 holes. If I go with the first route then I will cover the lines with vacuum hose to make it less noticable.

 

remove the annodizing from those fittings, they'll be MUCH less noticable. Oven cleaner works well

 

Yes we can do directports like that also. But on a 250 shot you can get a much simplier application. THe jet changes for tunning will be a nightmare with a true hidden directport.

Spray bars in the intake will make for only two jets to change and work just as well.
Dave