I got this a few days ago besides the rusty vette headers I think its a nice other option for 3rdGens.

Im gona have a guy I know make some custom headers to go with the setup.

now to just get off my *** and do a motor.

Tubro hot side is here.
Befor.

After I got em and polished em relly quick.


MAYBE the car will be out this summer. :shrug:

 

few more

http://www.cecoatings.com/images/Car.../hotside304ss/

 

so those are basically block hugger headers flipped upside down and some 3" tubing off that to the one single turbo. How much would that cost to make up?

 

Stock Corvette headers. These are from my 1984.

 

Yep like JoBy said Stock vette headers with stainless exh parts. I still need to add a flex joint to the middle.

I want to see if the vette headers will fit in the normal direction with modified tubes also for a single.

 

You think a flex joint will hold up to it ?

 

why wouldnt it? Thats what they are made for.

http://www.proturbokits.com/store/sc...?idCategory=46

 

How do you plan to route the downpipe?

 

Ohhhhhh I was thinknig just one of them run of the mill flexjoints like on our Escourt Wagon ...they don't last worth a crap .

 

theres enough room to squeeze it under the vette headers along the frame rail. Ive seen a few done this way.

 

I posted pictures years ago, even if you completely re route the front primary the collector will hit the motor mount/k-member.

I don’t know about that packaging… fine, it lets you keep your AC but the lines and compressor are so close that they will not work well without major shielding, and then add the down pipe right under that mess and you might as well mount the AC in your exaust.

Secondly, there isn’t that much room in the fenders of a 3rd gen, there is no way that you’ll get a proper filter/intake setup on it, and restrictions before the compressor are much worse for total output then after (just like restrictions after the turbine are much worse then before, and you’re going to be routing that down pipe in all sorts of twists and turns to get it to go under that compressor/header…

I hate running the crossover round the front, but looks like everyone insists on doing that (I’ve run a few through the stock location after looking at the compramizes in getting it around things in the front decided it wasn’t worth it).

I guess it’s better then a rear mount, but not as good as just getting someone to do it right…

It does look kinda cool. I bet it toasts your hood paint also.

 

Im not worried about AC since Im not running it. Thats not in my car as said above. Its from the guy I got it from.

I traded some free powdercoating work for the setup so even if I get rid of it no loss. If I dont like the way things Go I have everything here and already started on a setup like prestons anyways.

Hopefully I have the hood issue somewhat covered. Since its a glass 3inch cowl I have a gallon of lizard skin( http://www.hotrodscustomstuff.com/PS-LizSkin.html ) to coat the int. and hood with.

http://www.lizardskin.com/pages/about_lizardskin.php

Front cross over,rear crossover, right way ,wrong way. Is all a matter of opinion. They all work. some just work better then others. Im not looking to make 1200HP in a vert.

as for Rear mount. I have a buddy local who just put twin pt76's on a rear mount 360 mopar and put down in the 1300hp rance on a chassis dyno right off the trailer. Sure he cold have mad more with a twin or single under the hood. But he is happy with it spooling in the 3000rpm range.

 

^^^WTF!??!?! thats so COOL

 

TPI383-

Have you used that Lizard Skin stuff at all? I inquired about it in the car audio forum but no one answered. I seems a little expensive but sounds like it is worth it. I just don't know about having to buy the gun to spray it.

 

I never liked the front crossover thing on a thirdgen or any other rig that had room under the pan. There is no reason to put that much heat up front.

I have tried all kinds of stock manifolds flipped up and looked at them on a engine on the stand. I never liked the looks of any of them.

What I do like is that it is different. How close are the alum. A/C lines? Do they need heat shields?

 

Yes and its well worth the extra $ compaired to others.
If I didnt see a demo at the PRI show I wouldnt belive how well it works.

They had a cooking hot skilet coated on one side and not the other. They were tossing Ice cubes on both sides. The coated size took a few minutes to melt while the other side started to melt asap.

 

Was there by any chance a sound demonstration? That would be the purpose that I would use it for. How thick is it when applied?

Thanks

 

They had it on some fiberglass and metal you could tap etc.

They had it as a undercoating on a fender also. 1/4 inch thick.

Its sandable and paintable also.

 

1/4"...That is thick. It does look like some pretty neat stuff. I might have to give that a try instead of rammat or dynamat. Thanks for letting me know a little more about it.

 

ya 1/4inch is thick but then again 1/2of the pannel was sanded down and painted body color also. just diff examples they had to show.

 

huh, how heavy is the stuff?

 

no hevier then dynomat or any other spray stuff

 

well, dynomat and some of the tar/rubber based spray stuff is seriously heavy and adds up fast.

they advertise it as "lightweight" so I would assume that it's at least lighter then those, but of course there isn't always truth in advertising...