Ok I have already ordered it but I want to know if anyone is running this set up. My 383 short block will be here in about 3 weeks and I just want to know what to expect even if its just theoretically. I am running a P600B 12 psi and the TPI has some mods(check my sig). I am in the process of ordering a new 700R4 and suggestions here? What kind of H.P. can I expect? Thanks for the help guys.

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88GTA 5.7(under construction) ATI Procharger,58mmTB,ported plenum,SLP runners,Edelbrock HI-FLO base.ported heads,1.5RR,210/220/480 compcam,AFPR,SLP1 3/4 headers,3.70 gears,Eibach drag launch,Lakewood LCA`s, Nitto drag radials.

 

One trick I did to my SLP runners was to remove the divider from the middle of the paired runners so they are siamesed their entire length not just the 1½" that they come from SLP with. A forced induction engine isn't as sensitive to runner length as a Natural breather. When opened up like this the SLP runners become part of the plenum and the air flows with less restriction to the manifold base. That allows the supercharger to feed even more air to the engine. A larger CID motor will appreciate the additional breathing.
As far as the TH700r4 goes, don't skimp here, it will cost you in the long run. My stock 700 burned out the 3&4 clutch pack early on. I had it rebuilt with a good kit (good clutch material, bigger 3&4 clutch pack, kevlar band, valve body mods, billet pistons, etc..). It lasted about a month! I thought "I'll fix this right so I don't have to worry about it again." I bought a TCI Streetfighter Transmission at a cost of $1200.00. It lasted two weeks before it blew a sprag & the planitary gears. Got it rebuilt with better parts & it lasted about a year before it blew the drum on the input shaft into about a dozon pieces. Back to the bench. After a total of $2500.00 spent on the TCI and $800 on the original for a grand total of $3300 on trannies I called Art Carr Transmissions. Before I told them what all I had broke in mine they told me what all I had broke in it. They told me the sprags were junk. They said some other small pieces needed upgraded. They then said after fixing all the other stuff the Drum on the input shaft would shatter if it wasn't improved. Yep...been there! I ordered up an Art Carr Prepped TH700. It is still together so far {knock on wood.} The moral of the story is; A supercharged TPI motor in a full body car makes transmission ripping torque. Even a good trannie cant keep pace. Get a very good one.

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• 355 cid
• AFR heads
• Arizona Speed & Marine hydraulic roller cam w/ AFR hydra-rev kit
• modified SLP runners
• TRW forged pistons/ceramic coated
• fully balanced
• Edelbrock headers/ceramic coated
• SLP cat-back
• Paxton supercharger
• Nitrous Express nitrous oxide

My IROC-Z
EFI Performance Club on Yahoo

 

i think a blower on a 383 your going to need some tires to hold it! Those things make torque down low, and the blower isnt going to make things easier.

IROCKZ4ME, man you had a hell of a time with trannies. I bought a Darrel Young 700R4 and ran it for 2 years now and have never had a problem with it.

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-86 IROC
Vortech stuffed EFI 406 in progress
-=ICON Motorsports=-

 

Yeh Guido it was a real pain. It cost me doing other things to the car too. Every time I started to do something new to the car I had to blow the money & time fooling with the trannie. I would have retired my old Paxton SN92 along time ago in favor of an intercooled Procharger or aftercooled vortech. That's looming in the future now though. I'm getting back on track now. I've heard good things about Art Carr, Darrel Young, Level 10, & a few others. Almost every Trans builder improves the valve body & upgrades the clutches but you also want to be sure your Trannie has upgraded sprags, planetary set & ring gears, and input shaft + drum at least. If it doesn't and you make the kind of torque a supercharged EFI engine can make in a heavy car it will break.
Your definitely right about traction. That is my biggest problem now.


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• 355 cid
• AFR heads
• Arizona Speed & Marine hydraulic roller cam w/ AFR hydra-rev kit
• modified SLP runners
• TRW forged pistons/ceramic coated
• fully balanced
• Edelbrock headers/ceramic coated
• SLP cat-back
• Paxton supercharger
• Nitrous Express nitrous oxide

My IROC-Z
EFI Performance Club on Yahoo

 

Guys I definitly need help in the tranny department. Does Art Carr have a website? There is a place called "The Transmission Center" that claims to build a 700R4 "Raptor" that will supposedly hold up to 600 HP. The price is about 1500.00 shipped. I have the money I just dont want to monkey around tryng to figure out if it will work or not. Thanks for the tips guys. Do you guys think mid to low 11`s are possible with this set up?

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88GTA 5.7(under construction) ATI Procharger,58mmTB,ported plenum,SLP runners,Edelbrock HI-FLO base.ported heads,1.5RR,210/220/480 compcam,AFPR,SLP1 3/4 headers,3.70 gears,Eibach drag launch,Lakewood LCA`s, Nitto drag radials.

 

I'm planning to build a SC 383 next year, but after reading this maybe I should stay with only 355 cui.....

What do you guys think?

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GTA -89:Free flow muffler,dual 3" HF cats, Edelbrock headers, Vette heads, 1.52 RR 7/16, ZZ-9 cam, Big Mouth, AS&M LTB, ported plenum, 52 TB, MSD 6AL, TPIS level V prom, Mod .MAF, Superior shift-kit and some minor mods. and more to come!
http://www.itv.se/tacs/members_cars/m279/m279.html (Swedish Trans Am Club)

 

IM one of those that beleives in more is better. I know I`ll have a lot of ponies but I dont plan to use them all. I figure if I can over build it without sacrificing streetability it should last. But get back to me next year and I`ll definitly have some good advise by then.I just dont know of anyone running a SC`d 383. Good luck.

 

In the worl of motor sports,overkill is easily acomplished.Motor for motor,the bigger cubes will always have the advantage.But there is a variable here,the blower,this changes everything,cubes no longer matter,those measly 27 more cubes,are not gonna make a night and day difference on your car.Yes some might say,while your building the motor,you might as well go bigger,but why stop at 383,go 406,hell go 420,see how this all gets out of hand very easily.You have to sit down and figure all this out on paper all the costs.355 will alwyas be cheaper then any other motor,I will dispute this with anyone.Most,if not all when going stroker,go with a expensive 4340 stroker crank,yes this is only part of the picture,but are you going to hang stock rods on that $1000 crank?I dont think so.Build it to perportion.If you really wanted to save some bucks and went with the stock crank,and rods,and went with some TRWs,you could have a reliable motor(as long as you adhere to keeping it under 6000rpm)on the boost and make 5-600hp on 12-15lbs of boost.Spend your bucks on the heads and valvetrain ,in that order.A gm 1053 steel crank,with either Eagle rods or comparable with TRWs pistons would be more than enough for 90% of anyone here.If your looking to put down 1000hp #s,your first priority should be a second job So many thing to consider when turning up the wick considerabley over stock.You have to ask your self,or Ill ask you,have you ever been in an 12sec car,11 sec,10sec car?If you havent ,get in one and experience it firsthand.Then gauge what you would want yourself.Im confident in saying 90% here would be satisfied with a consistant 11sec car.Very fast,11sec is.But this level is easily attainable for most.10s is another story.Top do this consitantly and reliably,you are in for the long haul.Breakage is common,and expensive.Not something you want to face after putting together an $$$ motor and combo.

Transformer,you have an easy 11sec car on your hands,expest over 500rwhp.

 

I'm not sure if Darrell Young puts a rating on their Trannies. Art Carr rates their th700r4s at 800 horsepower & 650 lbs/ft torque capacity. Of course it all depends on how good the tires hook, the weight of the car and other variables. The real killer of transmissions (besides overheating, get a good cooler) is big torque at very low RPMs. Higher RPM power isn't as harmful to the trannie.

Your combo should be capable of 11s. Just remember it will need optimized & tuned to get the most out of it, especially the air/fuel ratio. I have seen many very simular builds (parts wise) that didn't perform anything alike do to one being better tuned.

Anyway here are a couple Transmission links;
Darrel Young Racing Transmissions
Art Carr Performance Products
I can vouch for the Art Carr th700r4. I am thrilled not to have to worry about trannie problems anymore. Also the Art Carr torque converter launches better than my old B&M Holeshot with the same stall speed. The Art Carr converter is more efficient and has better torque multiplication than the Holeshot.

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• 355 cid
• AFR heads
• Arizona Speed & Marine hydraulic roller cam w/ AFR hydra-rev kit
• modified SLP runners
• TRW forged pistons/ceramic coated
• fully balanced
• Edelbrock headers/ceramic coated
• SLP cat-back
• Paxton supercharger
• Nitrous Express nitrous oxide

My IROC-Z
EFI Performance Club on Yahoo

 

Procharged, thanks for that facinating overview of my post. Man I always enjoy reading your replys even if they dont pertain to me. Thanks bro. My 383 will have a SCAT 9000 steel crank,I forget the rods but they are something Stage 2/ and TRW forged blower pistons. 4 bolt block ,Clevite bearings,fluidamper,SFI flex plate, and the whole assembly will be completely balanced oh and the plasma rings will be file fitted. I am running stock heads wich have been ported to the max and bowl blended. I think my compression ratio will be around 9.6 sp I dont plan to lean out the FMU too much. I plan to upgrade to some AFR195`s but I need the tranny first. IROCK thanks for the links man IM really sorry about your experience and I really appreciate your advise. I am running NITTO drags but do you guys think Ill be better of with some BFG drags. Thanks to everyone for all the help.

 

Transformer,thanks for the compliments.I am,by no means totally disrespecting your choice on what you or anyone here is building.Scat products speak for themselves,they are very good pieces.My friend who is now building a 383,(I had talked him into my very combo,but he backed out)he talked with the engine builder,he is running my P600B I sold him,and will put 12lbs threw the motor,and got him to consider a 383,so I said,to keep the costs down and get a good rotating assembly he would get a Scat crank and Rods,and I recommended TRWs,but he wanted JEs,oh well,the engine builder reiterated the same thing I said,but he being the bit nervous type,said he was going to spend the big bucks and go with a Callies crank ,Callies rods and JEs,dam he spent over 2 grand on his bottom end and he is only running 12lbs of boost.I went with the 1053 steel GM crank,the Eagle SIR rods,and TRW blower pistons.I spent aroung $1300 with rings and bearings.You will be quite happy with your setup,like I said you have very good parts in your motor.Good luck

 

This may sound like a stupid idiotic thing to do but I can only do one thing at a time. I plan to run my combo through the 9 bolt aussie rear end. Yeah, I can almost see the expression on your faces now! But how long can I anticipate the unit to hold up with say 3 passes a week. The only thing I have done to it is add 3.70 gears and LCA`s. Im going to see what the nittos will hold and I already ordered some BFG`s DR`s. This may lift some of the burden from the rear. Let me know what you guys think.

 

You know what Transformer,I have spent a fortune on my car,but IM right there with you if anyone is gonna jump on you they have 2 to jump on.I still have the 9 Bolt in mine also.It has the 3.70 gears,I hammered it all the time,pulling 1.7 short times and 12 sec blasts,my tranny guy is the ****,Im on a personal 1 to one basis with him as Iv known him a long time,he told me he set the lash loose for my pummiling of it.It has held up no problem.Try this also Trans,I use Redline exclusivly in the rear,I think I put their rearend addititve also,I dont remember,the car has been in the garage a long time.No problems whatsoever.Im gonna leave it until it goes south,hope later than sooner.If you havent seen the prices of aftermarket rears,and you want a quick heart attack,call them up and find out,most want right $2000 or more,It will have to wait a while.But if and when I do upgrade Im goin Ford 9inch,it is about the same price as the 12 bolt and a heck of a lot stronger,probably one of the most bullit proof pieces you can put in your car,it has some drawbacks,like its higher weight,and rotating mass,but the + far outweight the -.Ive read and heard of some problems asssociated with some 12 bolts.Recently the Firbird 396 in GMHT,something about a out of balence rear,not sure if this is right or not,Im just repeating what I read,but it looks like they are pointing the finger at the rear.Let me know what happens with your car,good luck.

 

My 7.5" stock rear is still hangin in there. I'm using BFG drags (255/50 16). I think it will live until I get some Mickey Ts. Just use what you got, use good lube, & inspect it often. When/if it blows worry about that then. As long as it isn't hooked really well (better than 1.6 - 1.7 60 foot times) you should be ok.

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• 355 cid
• AFR heads
• Arizona Speed & Marine hydraulic roller cam w/ AFR hydra-rev kit
• modified SLP runners
• TRW forged pistons/ceramic coated
• fully balanced
• Edelbrock headers/ceramic coated
• SLP cat-back
• Paxton supercharger
• Nitrous Express nitrous oxide

My IROC-Z
EFI Performance Club on Yahoo

 

Thanks for the tips guys. I hope my rear end holds up for at least a few months. I have heard of 10 bolts being retrofitted with Torsen diffs. Is this a less expensive alternative to a 12 bolt or 9 inch? I know the later are more proven but why does everyone talk about the 10 bolt w/ torsen set up. I would really like to keep my rear disc if and when I do swap the rear. Last but not least I have heard that an adjustable torque arm can do miracles for traction. I have run across a few on some other classifieds and they are not outragously expensive. Are they worth the money or not? I dont want to cut any corners I just want a low cost effective way to build a rocket. Thanks again guys.

 

Transformer, I typed this a couple of nights ago and was about ready to click the "submit reply" button and a storm blew the power here and junked my reply, but here it is tonight.
A buddy of mine with an '89 IROC-Z original 5.7 car, now a nitrous fed 406, is still using his stock rear end gears & all. He has a shorter than stock tubular torque arm on his. he's getting high 1.50 - low l.60 60ft times on 255/50 16 BFG Drags @ 14-15 PSI. I'd say that is a pretty hard launch for BFGs on an otherwise stock body/chassis car. That torque arm must be working. I'm waiting to see how long his rear end holds out before becoming left over erector set parts, lol.

Swapping the carrier out removes a lot of the problems with the stock rear end. It stll doesn't stop the side bearing caps from fracturing or the cap bolts from breaking though. It also doesn't stop the axles from twisting or breaking. The bottom line is cost VS stength. A good compromise would be to pull the axles and paint a straight light colored stripe the length of them so you can tell in advance if they are starting to twist. Install a good carrier & gear set with new ring gear bolts. Use bearing cap studs instead of bolts. replace the cover with a girdle that allows you to put a preload on the caps to reinforce them. Also it wouldn't be a bad idea to get the housing & bearing caps magnifluxed, deburred, shot peaned, & align honed while apart. You could head off future problems that way.



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• 355 cid
• AFR heads
• Arizona Speed & Marine hydraulic roller cam w/ AFR hydra-rev kit
• modified SLP runners
• TRW forged pistons/ceramic coated
• fully balanced
• Edelbrock headers/ceramic coated
• SLP cat-back
• Paxton supercharger
• Nitrous Express nitrous oxide

My IROC-Z
EFI Performance Club on Yahoo