Ok I am getting ready to get nitrous for my car and I have a few questions: I want to get the NGK TR-6 Plugs but I cannot find them anywhere anyone have part numbers from Summit or Jegs for them?? Also here is what I am doing to my car to make sure it's ready : Accel 8.8 wires, Accel supercoil, MSD 6A, Accel cap+rotor, AFPR, Fuel press. guage, Air/fuel ration guage, nitrous pressure guage and spark plugs. Am I missing anything? Also the nitrous kit I want to get is the nitrous express one w/ micro-throttle switch, fuel press. safety switch. I am going to run 125 shot at most. Where should I order the kit from? Thanks alot sorry about the length I just wanted to make sure I didnt miss anything.

------------------
1991 GTA 350 Black w/ black leather. 82k miles. Stock!

1988 IRoc 350 B&M Shifter, Dynomax exhaust, MSD Ign. Airfoil, K&N's (For Sale!!!)

 

Come on no one can help me???

------------------
1991 GTA 350 Black w/ black leather. 82k miles. Hooker Aerochamer Catback, Airfoil, K&N, TB Bypass...and alot more on the way soon!!

 

stock plugs will do just fine-you dont need ngk's, and the coil lm not sure about- you need a cold spark with nitrous someone correct me if lm wrong but l don't think its a good idea to run an aftermarket coil

 

It isn't a cold spark you are looking for. It is a colder spark plug. Meaning the metal the plug is made from, the actual material of the plug tip needs to be colder in a performance situation. Not the spark but the metal needs to be colder.
The plug tip needs a certain amount of heat to be "self cleaning" If a plug is too cold then carbon will build up quickly and foul the plug. If the plug is too hot then it may ignite the fuel before the spark actualy occurs.
In a performance engine more heat is generated in the combustion chamber. When using nitrous or supercharging a great deal of heat is generated in the combustion chamber. You need colder plugs to prevent premature ignition of the fuel before the spark even occurs.

The denser mixture caused by supercharging and nitrous use can be difficult to light off under certain conditions. The larger and more powerful the spark, the better the burn.
As far as spark energy goes, the more the better. Better wires, coil and ignition amplifiers will help.

Now spark plugs...
I don't go for fancy plugs. I have yet to see any actual power gain from them. I have seen lots of people have problems because of them though, especially with nitrous, superchargers or high compression high horsepower cars.
I'm not familiar with the NGK plug you mentioned. If it is a platinum tipped plug, you may want to check this out: https://www.thirdgen.org/messgboard/...ML/000546.html

------------------

Tracy /AKA IROCKZ4me
'86 IROC-Z Camaro
"Cogito ergo zoom"

• 355 cid
• AFR heads
• Arizona Speed & Marine hydraulic roller cam w/ AFR hydra-rev kit
• modified SLP runners
• TRW forged pistons/ceramic coated
• fully balanced
• Edelbrock headers/ceramic coated
• SLP cat-back
• Paxton supercharger
• Nitrous Express nitrous oxide

EFI Performance Club on Yahoo


[This message has been edited by IROCKZ4me (edited June 25, 2001).]

 

A "colder" spark plug refers to its "heat range". It all has to do with the length of the plug insulator. A plug with a longer insulator holds heat longer, hence a "hotter" plug. A plug with a shorter insulator doesn't hold its heat as long as a plug with a longer insulator, hence a "colder" plug.

To give a better example (I hope), say its 100 degrees outside. If you go outside dressed in three or four layers of clothes, you'll burn up. That would make you a "hot plug" or very stupid, or perhaps even dead! (Ummm... not funny, right?). If you go outside in a thin t-shirt and a pair of shorts, you'll stay cooler. That would make you a "colder plug". And you'll probably live to see another day.

The reason that you want a colder plug is because a hotter plug can cause pre-ignition, detonation, and host of other problems than can cause engine damage. After you've spent whole lot of $$$, you dont want to blow your engine up.

I hope this helped even though it might have sounded a little stupid.

[This message has been edited by JAYDUBB (edited June 25, 2001).]

 

Jaydubb is correct about the temperature of the metal of the electrode being controlled by the insulator.

The insulator "heatsinks" the heat away from the electrode tip into the metal case of the plug. From there the heat travels into the cylinder head material.

A hotter plug has a deeper pocket around the electrode insulator so that the insulator does not contact the case of the plug for a further distance. This means less heat will dissipate into the case of the sparkplug and then into the head between combustion events.

A colder plug has a more shallow pocket and thus the insulator contacts the case closer to the electrode. This shorter distance for the heat to travel allows more effective and thus more complete heat transfer between combustion events.


There is some more sparkplug/ignition info here, https://www.thirdgen.org/messgboard/...ML/000290.html



[This message has been edited by IROCKZ4me (edited June 25, 2001).]

 

thanks for correcting me guys, l wasnt sure if a coil actually made the plugs "hotter" or if it just delivered a more powerful spark, that cleared up a lot of misconceptions l had on the whole spark plug topic

 

did anyone bring up timing?for every 50 hp.of Nitrous you add you need to retard you timing by 2 degrees.or was it for every 100 hp. of nitrous.someone help me here

------------------
1991 banditt2 #130 of 600
Project 350 TPI Banditt II
http://www.street-dawg-racing.cityslide.com
http://discussion-board.com/GreaterC...dyAssociation/
http://www.cincyspeed.com/

 

For every 50 shot u need to pull 2 degrees of timing. derrick

 

is that two degrees from the stock 6, or two degrees from what I'm running now?