Does this setup blow?
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 459
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From: Bloomingdale, NJ
Car: 1985 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: T-5 5 Spd
Axle/Gears: Built 10bolt w/3.73s
Does this setup blow?
Ok I have a Goodwrench 260HP crate in my car (8.5:1 compression) with the CCQjet setup still in tact, and I'm looking to build something very streetable, more low-end TQ and midrange HP, while still being fairly emissions conscious.
I finally got my hands on a B&M 144 blower I plan to run 6PSI with. For the cam I'm planning on going with Comp Cam's XE262H-14. Has anyoneelse used this cam with this type of blower?
I also have some aluminum roller rockers lying around that I'm going to throw on there.
So what do you think, anyone have a similar setup?
I finally got my hands on a B&M 144 blower I plan to run 6PSI with. For the cam I'm planning on going with Comp Cam's XE262H-14. Has anyoneelse used this cam with this type of blower?
I also have some aluminum roller rockers lying around that I'm going to throw on there.
So what do you think, anyone have a similar setup?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 459
Likes: 0
From: Bloomingdale, NJ
Car: 1985 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: T-5 5 Spd
Axle/Gears: Built 10bolt w/3.73s
A WBO2 would be nice, for now though I have a narrowband guage I'm going to hook up. Retaining the QJET computer should make this easy to tune and I doubt its going to hold me back. If anything I think I'll upgrade to a 4bbl TBI and a Megasquirt.
I used the XE268H-14 in my last motor with the 142 blower. It was too much cam. I think the slightly smaller 262 would definitely be a better choice with that blower. You could even go one smaller than that, in my opinion. I'm currently using a Summit house brand 1103 cam (214/224 on a 112* LSA) and it works just great.
Ditch the stock secondary rods in the cc-QJet and replace them with a set of DA rods on a G hanger and you should be in the ballpark for a safe/rich mixture with the blower.
Keep the timing advance conservative- nothing over the stock intial timing setting and nothing but premium in the tank. And make sure your fuel system can keep up.
Ditch the stock secondary rods in the cc-QJet and replace them with a set of DA rods on a G hanger and you should be in the ballpark for a safe/rich mixture with the blower.
Keep the timing advance conservative- nothing over the stock intial timing setting and nothing but premium in the tank. And make sure your fuel system can keep up.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 459
Likes: 0
From: Bloomingdale, NJ
Car: 1985 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: T-5 5 Spd
Axle/Gears: Built 10bolt w/3.73s
I have AH rods. They're spec'd in GM's ZZ4 conversion, and I believe a B hanger. I'll have to check Doug Roe's book for the difference. I was going to upgrade to a higher flow mechanical fuel pump and an external regulator. Think my 5/16" stock lines will flow enough upto 5500 rpm? I'll probably install a fuel press guage as well.
Was your last motor a 383 or 350?
Was your last motor a 383 or 350?
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Every motor I've had my little 142 blower on top of has been a 383 (excepting the various motors I put this same blower on for friends many moons ago). Keep in mind, they've all been modified 383s built for a blower with heads from decent to good, which is a different ballpark than your stock replacement crate motor, not just becuase of the cubic inch difference. My combos have been like taking a 350 HP motor and making it into 450+HP motor (currently a REAL 470 at the crank, as installed in the car, depending on whose conversion factor you believe). You're trying to make a 260HP motor into a ~400HP motor- you'll have an easier task ahead of you than I did!
Regardless, the cam choice will be similar. SMALL is good when it comes to these little blowers. They have very limited airflow potential- you must use what they can deliver EFFICIENTLY. The last thing you want is a big cam with lots of overlap blowing precious boost straight out the exhaust. Think SMALL. Smaller is better with these blowers. Big cams trade away bottom end torque for no gain on the top end. I knocked 10* off my cam's duration with the latest combo (224 previous vs. 214 now) and I don't miss it a bit. I goes just as fast or faster, has a better idle, etc. Really no downside to the smaller cam and bottom end torque is nothing short of brutal. Even when I had the too-big cam in it I was making well over 500 ft/lbs as low as 3000 (lowest I could get a reading on the chassis dyno). You might think that would be a good thing but it wasn't in the real world.....
With the bigger cam it actually was a little "soft" in the sub-3000 range. Yeah, I could lauch it decent off the line even on street tires if I was careful. But once it hit 3000-3200 it would just come alive again and spin the tires anyway. It was VERY touchy getting a good run. Mat the pedal fairly quick, get it out of the hole, then back-pedal through the mid RPMs and lay it wide open again near the top of 1st. Very annoying to get a good lauch and then spin the tires at the 60 foot mark anyway. With the smaller cam it's very "linear" and easier to modulate with a tight torque converter through 1st gear- and remember I still haven't given anything away on the top end.
AH rods aren't as rich as DA rods anywhere- on the taper or on the power tip.
Regardless, the cam choice will be similar. SMALL is good when it comes to these little blowers. They have very limited airflow potential- you must use what they can deliver EFFICIENTLY. The last thing you want is a big cam with lots of overlap blowing precious boost straight out the exhaust. Think SMALL. Smaller is better with these blowers. Big cams trade away bottom end torque for no gain on the top end. I knocked 10* off my cam's duration with the latest combo (224 previous vs. 214 now) and I don't miss it a bit. I goes just as fast or faster, has a better idle, etc. Really no downside to the smaller cam and bottom end torque is nothing short of brutal. Even when I had the too-big cam in it I was making well over 500 ft/lbs as low as 3000 (lowest I could get a reading on the chassis dyno). You might think that would be a good thing but it wasn't in the real world.....
With the bigger cam it actually was a little "soft" in the sub-3000 range. Yeah, I could lauch it decent off the line even on street tires if I was careful. But once it hit 3000-3200 it would just come alive again and spin the tires anyway. It was VERY touchy getting a good run. Mat the pedal fairly quick, get it out of the hole, then back-pedal through the mid RPMs and lay it wide open again near the top of 1st. Very annoying to get a good lauch and then spin the tires at the 60 foot mark anyway. With the smaller cam it's very "linear" and easier to modulate with a tight torque converter through 1st gear- and remember I still haven't given anything away on the top end.
AH rods aren't as rich as DA rods anywhere- on the taper or on the power tip.
Last edited by Damon; Mar 1, 2007 at 09:39 PM.
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