hey guys, after spending two months researching turbo set ups, and hanging aroung the turbo forums, my build is starting to come together. Im going for the junkyard, "how cheap can it be done" set up and heres my list so far

garrett T04F .70 a/r compressor housing, 1.00 exhaust.- $10
Air fuel ratio gauge (used, swap meet find)- $10
chevelle headers, with rusted out collectors -$10
holley carb+ rebuild kit -$60
7 feet of 2 1/2 hot side piping, $16
quardrajet adapter $16
4" downpipe off a diesel truck- free
v band clamp 4''- free
oil hook ups for turbo- free
compressor silicone connnector for inlet- free

total so far =$122
im going to get my mandrel bends in a few days, planning on building the headers this week

Ill post pics soon

so heres my question, has anybody put a 4'' down pipe on a third gen?
its a tight fit, but I managed to get it in there, with a outlet exiting underneath, with an a/c heater box, some things will have to be moved
but I think it will work. Id like to see a pic where somebody pulled it off b/f, to boost my confidence

btw, think I can build this thing for $300?
----------
still need:
wastegate
BOV
4 wire o2 sensor
solid floats,
assortment of jets
carb hat (probably going to fabricate)

anybody got a wastegate or bov they can let go cheap?

 

hope you don't plan on tuning a turbo setup with a narrow band 02 sensor instead of a wide band setup.

 

Never heard of a Garrett TO4F.....what is it? What size comp. wheel in it?

Low buck builds are fun. You would be better off making a WG out of pipe, bronze bushing, and a stock actuator. It is cheaper to get a WBO2 sensor/controller than destroying an engine. Plug cuts work great also if you creep up on the boost.

You don't need a 4" DP with that size compressor and turbine.

 

I have a 5" dp on mine (about 16 inches long) that reduces to 4" right at the front of the motor, then goes through the a-arm and out the back to a magnaflow muffler. I have a tubular kmember and a-arms as well as an Afco 2.5" coilover conversion on the front so there's a lot of room.

well with $180 to work with, its gonna be hard to get the rest of the stuff. Unless you find some sort of awesome deals like you already have. But for new stuff you can go with some knock off stuff.

Spectre carb hat pep boys/advanced/autozone -$60
DSM BOV- $20
knockoff 38mm WG- $100

 

Its off a new remanufactured 6.6 ford turbo diesel engine(probably stolen), found at the core (engine, radiator cores) dealer, it should spool at aroung 2800-3000 rpms and catch full boost at 3500 rpms

I would do a 3" downpipe, but this was free and fits the exducer. plus the larger pipe should help spool time a little

junkcltr, care to provide a link or a diagram of how to build a wastegate, id give it a shot, if I knew what i needed to build it.

 

to give you a quick, not so technical, description of how a wastegate might be built, image a cyl head valve as the diaphram. it has a spring that is forcing it closed as well as the boost/vacuum single of the compressor discharge. When the air coming form the headers/hotside generates more pressure than the spring is rated too, it opens up and dumps the air into the downpipe or atmosphere. The reduced amount of air entering the turbine housing will slow the spool and not compress the air, thus making the boost level off at the desired psi (what the spring is rated to) If the opening of the wastegate is not big enough, it will not let enough air get vented and thus creating what that call boost creep. This can also be caused by a leak in the signal from the boost source to the wastegate

 

hey everybody, got to work on the headers for about 5 hours today, heres pics of everything so far

btw this is a mockup car, not my car (its a lot cleaner and nicer than that)

 

pics of turbo and my piece of 4'' downpipe

 

hey man, one quick suggestion on the log headers. The #7 & #8 primaries should go through the back of the log to help with the flow.

 

man, I wish i thought about that before, i just finished the passenger side. they just need to be welded up. i am going to angle the back so that there is less turbulence inside the log. but their already built.

but the next set will be built with the 7 and 8 going into the back.

anymore suggestions about something? , everything helps.

 

sort of. It looks like you chopped up a set of headers and made them into logs. Be careful that the flanges dont warp and the tubes dont crack. Most likely the tubes are 18ga and the flanges are thin, 1/4" maybe 3/8" at most.

 

yeah i just chopped up a set of headers, they are 18 gauge with 3/8 flanges. i don't figure they will last too long, but i hope they will last about a year

 

They will last a little while if you make sure there is plenty of support on the turbo.


Man, that turbine is massive compared to the compressor. Curious to see how it performs.

My first turbo kit cost me about $1000 in parts (only the I/C was used). I also like the low-budget do it yourself projects

 

yeah ive planned out my support brackets for the turbo, i don't plan on the headers lasting very long, but id think without the weight on the tubing they should last a year, with duct tape and prayers.

Im hoping it will catch full boost at about 3500-3800 rpms, so i don;t start tearing up drivetrain stuff at the line

if i can find it, theres a video of a mustang with a takeoff id like to have to begin with, maybe without quite so much lag

 

... don't forget the Elmer's glue, thumb tacts and rubber bands lol!

 

... don't forget the Elmer's glue, thumb tacts and rubber bands lol!

yeah the rubber bands should help a ton

going to weld up my headers today, and get the brackets built for the electric fan

 

^ I really like the creativity man, can't wait to see the outcome....

 

thanks man, ordered my bends and connectors for the downpipe, should be here in the morning

my welds look horrible, probably due to the fact that im 16 and have only used a wire welder like 5 times. but its all good, i should have the hot side about done in a few days (still need a wastegate), and then its on to the oil lines. I can't believe how fast this is going, im really stoked about everything, (other than my welds. i should have pics tomorrow

 

It looks great so far. You are going to be better at welding when the project is done. The welding practice is a good thing and what better to learn on than doing a turbo setup. You are going to be amazed at how much power you gain vs. the money you spend.

I would do like was said earlier and cut the log pipe at an angle to clear the brake booster. It will also help with exh. flow. You will have quite a bit of strength in the headers with that setup so they should last fine for a year or more depending on how much you drive it.

 

presenting, the hot side- minus the t4 flange, I got the downpipe figured out today, and after i build the t4 flange, and add the finishing touches to the hotside, i can weld up the downpipe. I may have the mockup car running with the turbo hooked up this weekend

 

not planning on clearing the hood?

 

 

I think it will fit, jk no im planning on a cowl hood, I need about 2.5 inches of clearance over stock

 

I still don't think it will fit.

 

Well, maybe Bandit should hold the turbo up there for us!?

Is there enough room to have the flange on top, and the tubo hanging under? That seems to be the popular choice for 6-bangers, but don't know if it will clear the radiatoron an 8.

 

I like the build. At worse you will have to cut the hood and put in a bubble. You could go with a u-bend and hang it lower like firstfirebird said. With the turbo you are using it will stick through the hood so I would do a test fit. You could angle the feed pipes down a little. It all depends on the "look" you want. A quick way out is to just cut a hole in the hood. If it is going to the track then you need the bubble on the hood.

 

even with a cowl hood, the 2.5" is at the middle/back of the hood, not the front where you need it. My advice would be to mount the turbo in the pass side battery tray area.

 

im sure that it will work, ive got the turbo into position and measured everything out,

what i meant was,i need 2.5 inches of clearance where the turbo is going

when i get the hotside done, ill hang the tubo in there so you guys can see it

 

done it several times with no hacking of the car, here is one read this tread.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/powe...kit-built.html

Francis

 

hey guys, heres a couple of pics, here is the turbo in a place "where it isn't going to work" and how it will look in the car

 

just to reiterate some good advise

 

OK, the pics show it sits higher than the hood without the 1/2" or 3/8" flange installed. Are you going to cut the hood or lower the turbo?

 

For simplicity, the flange could just sit right on the crossover pipes - almost like a "T".

 

if you look close at the first pic of my last post, you can see that i have the merge pipe set up about 3/4 of an inch, giving me plenty of room for error, the T isn't a good idea, because it would cause a lot of turbulence of the gases, which would probably damage performance and spool rate

and im not lowering the turbo, i will get or build a hood to compensate for the height

 

Like you said, there is nothing wrong with changing the hood. By the looks of it the bubble won't be that bad to make. You made a lot of progress so far with little invested. I think you are doing a great job with the parts you have.

 

keep at it and git'er done. I stand by the fact that no ideal, universally superior turbo kit exists given each person's particular situation and preferences. Usually a major preference is low cost... so you work with what you can get, and when you finally finish: you have built the perfect turbo setup... one that you can afford, and that works.

 

It's coming along awesome bro, keep up the good work. Look to the Gale Banks Twin Turbo Trans Am for some creative hood ideas, shouldn't be too hard for you to fabricate. Here are some pics of it, as well as a video, Click Here....

 

^ .... or, you can go the route that 5678TA went, albeit, lower the scoop down further towards the turbo. Talk about Ram Air for the turbo. Yeah, the looks of it leave much to be desired, but hey, it can be done for cheap, and it gets the job done!

 

that **** looks tacky as hell. why not just lower the crossover like 3 inches so you dont have to worry about modifying the hood.

 

^

... it sure does, but hey, good or bad, it does get the job done!

 

What are you going to use to fuel this? A "hat" on top of the carb to make it blow through? Plan on purchasing a good intake and a good carb that's made for boost. The stuff you've got there isn't going to work. A quadrajet intake with adaptor and a 600holley on top... eeks.
As other have said. You'll need a wideband in the downpipe. From the looks of the engine bay the engine is plenty tired and hasn't had much care over the years. The pulleys are all rusted.. when's the last time it ran?
I'm all for taking a running engine and boosting it but it seems your starting with somthing that has a serious disadvantage.
Somthing to think about.
You'll need some V-band connectors on each header to the merge collector so you can take it apart and it to have some "Give" when it heats up and cools down. Otherwise it'll be cracking all over.
~Scott

 

Well in regards to the last post ... you gotta read the entire thread .. this is a "mock up car" not the actual car. The blow thru carb is going to have an issue , but that aside i think it will be a good learning experience and it looks great !

 

hey everybody, ordered my wasteagte and blow off valve, anyways, the motor does run, but it is a mock up, just to get everything going, set my carb up for blowthru the other day, but baseballs getting ready to start and my new classes i have like 2 hours of homework in, so the project is going on the back burner for now, the final parts of the hot side cleaned me out ($350) there goes the budget, I have to do oil lines, a carb hat, cold side and the water/ meth injection. plus fuel system, so it looks like it will be awhile before this comes together on my car.

plus i plan on rebuilding the top end with a boost friendly cam and valve train, so maybe by this summer?

depends on cashflow and motivation on weekends

 

Sounds good man, Just keep your head in school, the car will always be there.

 

I think a cowl might clear. I have a 4 inch harwood and have my bov around the same position as your turbo and it clears. You could also get one of those cowl "add ons" for your stock hood and modify it to work. Looks good man.

Is that moss on your engine? Your compression ratio might be low enough for some good boost! I hope your not planning on substituting meth injection for an intercooler.

 

Cars come and go.
School lasts forever.
Devote your time to the school and learn great things.

The project is looking great so far. To have that much determination at your age shows you will be good at anything you do. I am sure you will be making plenty of HP with your boost setup before you know it.

 

Bad *** man, im interested to see how it goes.

 

hello everybody! im backkkkkkkk!

so its spring break and tomorrow im breaking out the welder
pics tomorrow nite!

 

^ bout time bro....

 

good luck on this project.