im looking at the ebay twin turbos

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEVY...spagenameZWDVW

im reading good stuff and bad stuff about them....

now i would like to know has someone used them, can anyone tell me by experience how they are? do they give a lot of power? has anyone try them on a dyno?

its just that if u recommend me these turbo then i'll install them and if they arnt good then i;ll give up cuz i dont have the money for the expansive turbos

thanx

 

probably not a good idea. i have no expeirence with this guys turbos. but my buddy bought a turbo kit off of ebay(it was 400 while all others were like 1800 or more) for his cavalier and we followed the included instructions to the tee and after 2 weeks the oil seal blew out and there was oil in places were you would never think oil could go. we tore everything off sent it to carmax for them to fix and he bought a reputable turbo and the rest of the kit went back in and everything has been fine. i dunno you may have stumbled on a great deal though

 

You are basically getting 2 turbos, 2 headers, 2 blow-off valves, an intercooler, and a bunch of line & fittings. All that for over $800 shipped. You need all the exhaust downpipe stuff, intercooler pipe & couplers, air cleaners, etc. That is going to cost probably another $000-$500 depending on your resources.
I have read some complaints that those headers don't fit in a thirdgen properly.

If you don't have a lot to spend then I would do this:
Buy the single turbo header setup for $260 shipped.
Buy a used Garrett T4 turbo for under $200 (or a china T4 unit for $350) Garrett preferred
Buy a china wastegate for $80 shipped
Buy the 31x12x3" intercooler (same as in pic you linked to) for $110 shipped
Buy an oil feed line and flanges for $50
Buy an oil drain line and flanges for $50
Buy a blow-off valve for $20
----
260+200+80+110+50+50+20 = 460+310 = $780
I over-estimated on the oil lines so you would save there.
A single setup is easier to install. The single china setup is known to fit in a thirdgen.

 

Yeah, I think the fabricator designed them with the accessories completely off. I'm running a non serpentine setup, I scrapped the A/C, scrapped the smog pump, and even pulled the upper bracket for the ps pump. Despite this, those headers are still hard to work with....

 

there are a few kits like that out now... ive been looking as well. still tho... i would like to do a twin turbo setup.. i saw one done on a LT1 with one single garrett turbo and it made crazy #'s but i just saw a new vette run 2 smaller turbos in where the stock mufflers where and it made INSANE #'s!!!! i was thinking of doint sumthing like this... run dual turbos where my true dual exhaust is right now.i kno i would have to run all the piping to the front of the car but thats ok.

wat kinda turbos would i use? engine will be 383 HSR with 470 NA hp, 30lb SVO injectors would have to be upgraded as well. i would have to do forged pistons cuz im sure i would destroy hyper pistons instantly. low compression like 8.5. i would make all the piping. this is just a crazy idea but would i be able to get away with two T3 turbos etc? they are online for like 200$ new and flow 300-350hp each... so wat would 2 make on my 470hp 383 combined?

 

Holy crap how many "What do you think of this ebay turbo kit" threads do we need.

 

one is probably too many

 

You got something better to talk about? cause there's not much going on with this side of the board.

 

^ What's your best run brother.....?

 

OK

yeah, upgrade injectors and other stuff. If you will destroy hyperuetectic pistons from a bad tune then you will probably break something else. Probably should learn how to tune first. Yeah, a couple of properly sized T3s would do it. Two 300-350HP turbos would make between 600-700HP on your engine.
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Hopefully more people will buy them and give a try. The more info. spread around about them, the better.
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True, it has been rather quiet around here lately.

 

Oh nothing to special just a 12.8, lets just say I have a good camera man

With my new pulley I'am probably at a 12.3-12.4 I'am guessing.

 

We have the same seal issues popping up in the mazda forums since the ebay kits started being more common.

Either buy a better turbo outright and keep the ebay one as a spare or sell it.

Some of the failures have been due to routing the oil lines backwards so be sure yours are routed properly and with a T3 or T4 you usualy need an orifice on the feed side to save the seals.

 

Interesting. That is exactly the good kind of info that comes out of "another ebay kit" thread.

I am curious about the seal problem you mentioned. Do you have any links to threads talking about it? I would be interested in them. Is it usually the compressor side or turbine seal leaking oil?

Routing oil lines backwards? I never heard of this. Do you mean putting the feed/pressure line in the oil return port of the turbo? Yeah, that would never work. The turbo has a small sump and the feed side has a wedge (oil pump like). Yes, most engines need a flow restrictor because the stock oil pressure and flow is too high and will push oil past the seals. Anyway, if you have any some links for the Mazda threads I would like to read them.

Quite a few people have oil seal problems because of:
1) improper feed oil pressure and rate
2) improper oil drain line (size, angle, rate)
3) improper CHRA angle (not vertical enough for oil flow)
4) bad turbo seals

 

Yeah I can search for some tomorow. The first one was a while ago so it might take some efort.

 

ive seen a few seal issues, on the mustang and supra forums, but most were due to improper drian line sizes or a kinked lines, or running the drian line improperly, most engines should not need a restrictor on a journal bearing turbo.

the biggest failure ive seen from the china turbos is due to improper first start, "not pre oiling the turbo"

it also seems heat cycling the units a few times before the first boost run is the way to go,most failures ive seen come from ppl bolting the stuff on then going right out and beating on it.

i have many many miles on my turbo and have had no issues with it,stay away from the ebay gt35r BB units teher are issues with seals and bearings on those for sure.i know somone who wa sselling them and he had to stop cause of certian issues with them

 

Suuuuuure, I believe ya!

That is a squat and a half for a high 9, I mean high 12 second run....

 

I think you are right about most getting too excited and not priming the CHRA first and then getting out there and sticking their foot in it.

This manual has some great info for oil feed and returns:
http://www.holset.co.uk/pics-related...%20manuals.php

Some of it is shown here:
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/...eed-lines.html

I always prime the CHRA first. I pull the injector fuse and turn the engine over to full oil pressure before starting it for the first time. I leave the air filter off upon the initial start so I can see if the comp. wheel is spinning. Big turbines and compressors won't have a spinning wheel at idle though.

I heat cycle a few times. You need to anyway to get the exh. maniflod / headers tight. Also, to check for any leaks.

 

http://www.mx6.com/forums/2g-mx6-for...ay-turbos.html

http://www.mx6.com/forums/2g-mx6-for...bay-turbo.html

 

i really hate these threads but curiousity gets the best of me.. well anyway, you can see a 12.99 dial in for me in this pic.. squat doesnt mean fast.. just wrong suspension setup..



and for the billionth time people, !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Are you serious LMAO? Get over yourself will you, I was kidding around with him....