Found a twin turbo on the internet that im thinking about getting for my 1986 firebird trans am. I was wondering tho what would i have to my car that is completely stock for it to be able to handle a power adder like this. Here is the site which shows the twin turbo package it geos for $700.I was thinking the torque converter would have to be swaped and what tubing would i need to go from the inter cooler to the tubo to the intake


http://app.infopia.com/Shop/Control/...id/0/SFV/31982

 

Wow, that website has the look off a scam website all the way. Notice the "About us" and "Contact us".
I wouldn't order anything from that site. Check Ebay and the real SSAC site for the China products.

 

http://www.ssautochrome.com/

 

HHhhhhmmm, the real SSAC site has it even cheaper at $639.00
http://www.ssautochrome.com/level.itml/icOid/1844

It looks to come with the 31x12x3" aftercooler. Too bad the headers aren't a simple bolt-on for a thirdgen. Because at that price they would probably sell like hot-cakes.

EDIT: I think the 2.9mm (.114") wall thickness on the headers is BS. The single setup I have has a wall thickness of about .049 - .065".

 

if u poke around a lil bit on there other site the xs one ,they have 2 diff header setups for 210$'s ive had one in my hands already forthe price u cant go wrong id advise a lil bit of welding work on them if u get a set though

 

I modified one of the single header setups with the under-oil-pan crossover. It was $230 shipped. For the price on that unit I also thought it was a good buy. The flanges are mild steel 1/2" plate. The bends are all non-magnetic (probably 304) S/S with .049-.065" wall. That is, 18 ga and 16 ga. I did do some cutting and TIG welding on them to move the wastegate and true-up the crossover pipe connection.

Is the pipe wall thickness really 2.9 mm (.114") thick on the twin setup headers? I find it had to believe that the bends are almost 1/8" wall. The bends look like regular SS304 bends that would be 18 ga. or 16 ga. and I would almost bet they are 18 ga. (.049").


http://app.infopia.com/Shop/Control/...id/0/SFV/31982

http://app.infopia.com/Shop/Control/...id/0/SFV/31982

 

i havent had the oportunity to get a twin turbo set in my hands yet, though i do belive thats going to be changing,i think rob is getting a set that im going to build a front crossover for and turn into a single setup.

the single set i saw was .065 wall stainless,so i would assume the twin set is the same,on thing i would change on the single setup besdies some extra welding on the flanges would be to get rid of the slip fit crossover and put in a 3 bolt or vband connection

 

Yup, that's exactly what I'm doing, just waiting on my direct deposit then I PM Chris....

 

Yes, the slip tube needs a conversion to V-band. There isn't room for a 3-bolt where they put the slip joint originally because it is right next to the starter. One of the 3" wide S/S clamps would also work with the stock slip joint. That is what I use on the heavy equipment exhaust.

The worst part of the single setup is the holes they cut in the 2.5"-3.0" log pipe for cyl #8 and cyl #2. The bends are 1 5/8", but the holes they cut where the 1 5/8" pipe meets the log were about 1 1/4". The exh. from those two cyls would hit a brick wall entering the main log pipe. The center two pipes (4 & 6) had the holes cut properly. I had to fix the openings for cyls 2 & 7 when I moved the wastegate.

I am curious what the wall thinkness is on the twin setup. For $200 or $230 shipped, the twin setup seems like a good deal if they clear the alternator and power steering pump. Then again, I had to make a new alternator bracket with the single setup because the Garrett T04E comp. housing would hit the stock 12 SI alternator. I had to make the alt. a low mount. I should post a pic of that......maybe tonight.

 

lol since we went way off topic, anyways that twin setup wont fitwithout relocating some of the accesories. ur much better off going with the single turbo setup.though going that route u cant buy it as a package deal

u would have to buy the single turbo header
a turbo
and intercooler
the plumbing kit
oil feed and drain lines
wastegate and blow off valve
and u would still need some for of fuel management wether u tune the stock computer or u use and fmu or other means.theres plenty of info on all of the above choices on this board
u can run 7-9 psi safley on ur motor as long as its tunned right

if u stick with the cheap stuff liek the original link u posted it isnt to costly, the stuff isnt the greatest but it does work just dont expect it to last forever

 

Beware Chinese turbochargers!!
Do some research on the DSM forums and such, these guys and the honda crowd are the primary targets of SS Autochrome . some people have posted pictures of glued together compressor housings and turbo headers that melted and failed at the collector.
buy a couple of used holset hx35 off ebay and make your own pipes instead of wasting money on turbo's that fall apart.

 

A lot of years have passed since the pictures of the glued compressor housing hit the seen. Do you have any real world recent pictures? Failure at the collector pictures are not entirely the header's fault. Installation had a part in that also. The header did not "melt".........it cracked and broke from heat & fatigue.
I am neither pro-china or anti-china turbochargers (aka SSAC turbos). I would like to see some real world CURRENT-up-TO-date pictures info on the info. you posted. Quality & technology tends to get better over time.

 

okay, good point. My info on chinese turbo's is a few years old. However, I have no problem with the quality of some Chinese parts, others are pure crap. Kinda like shopping at harbor freight, there are a few Gems in the junk pile.
I'm actually considering buying a couple of water/air intercoolers for a TT/big block project. I assume they are imported, they seem to be working ok for the DSM guys.
But a turbo has a few precisionparts in it, and thats the area where the inexpensive chinese parts have trouble quite often.
I will admit that the Chinese parts are improving as time goes on, but Myself, I'm not ready to spend money on a chinese turbocharger. I just bought two Holset turbos off Ebay this week for 150.00 each. Even if I get new bearings and seals thats still under 200 a piece.

 

I agree. You just have to pick through the pile.

I have two air-to-air Ebay aftercoolers/intercoolers. One is the 3"x24"x12" and the other is 4"x24"x12". The quality looks fine. The only down side to them is that the air passage ways betweens the plates are small compared to name brand ICs that I have seen. I am not complaining though because the price is in the $100-$150 range compared to $500-$1000. I usually oversize the IC so the lesser airflow doesn't matter to me.


For the most part I feel the same way. I buy used name brand turbos and put bearings & seals in them along with a good cleaning. I do it because the price for a good used turbo is usually cheaper than a brand new China turbo. I have been looking for a while now for a China turbo that I can get at a reasonable price, but every one wants too much for one. I can find used HX55s, GT4294s, etc for less than $300 shipped without needing a rebuild........so I can't justify spending over $300 for a new China GT45 or the like. I really want to try out a China GT45 or T70 so I have been keeping an eye out for a used one in the $100 range. Although, when I see a cheap used one I get the feeling that it was an old low quality one or installed wrong and the shaft/bearings/seals/wheels are bad...........and then where do you get parts for one.

 

okay, so just how restrictive do you think may be? I have not yet seen any in person. Smaller passages could possible help heat transfer,but thats not a good trade if they are too restrictive.
Are they bar and plate cores or radiator type cores?
It would be intersting to see somebody measure the pressure drop (along with temp change) on a high CFM application (at least a 350 chevy).

 

Not that restrictive. A guess would be 100HP less than an equivalent name brand IC of the same size. They are bar & plate type. Maybe I can dig up a picture looking into the inlet/outlet.

I did this on my Griffin 24"x"12"x4.25" core. On the stock 305ci TPI engine at 12 PSI of boost I saw a 0.01 PSI drop (essentially zero). I used a MAP sensor on the inlet side and the stock MAP sensor at the intake. The 305ci at 12 PSI was putting out about 360 BHP (not much). The Griffin IC should flow enough for 900 - 1200 HP. The results were as expected. Once I get the Ebay/China IC installed I will measure the pressure drop.

 

of course any pressure drop across the core must also consider temperature change.
100hp loss? On an LT-1 stroked to 383 I once ran on a chassis dyno using a centrifugal supercharger and water to air IC it made about 720 with the IC pump not running and about 780 with the IC pump working. that was around 12-14 PSI IIRC (been 7 years).

Now that setup had a little transcooler type radiator for the IC system and a little pump. A small car radiator and better pump would work much better.