Stealthy nitrous install
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Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,440
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From: huntsville, al
Car: 89 IROC
Engine: 6.8 HSR N2O
Transmission: TKO 600
Axle/Gears: 9" Moser 3.50 True trac
Stealthy nitrous install
Hey folks thought I'd share some pics of my nitrous install. It's a Cold Fusion kit and I did a couple of tricks to keep it hidden (well all most). Check out the bottle mounting. It's a single top bracket with that "foam stuff" for the bottom mount. Makes it super handy to change out.
To the untrained eye, it looks like there's nothing going on here...
To the untrained eye, it looks like there's nothing going on here...
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,440
Likes: 2
From: huntsville, al
Car: 89 IROC
Engine: 6.8 HSR N2O
Transmission: TKO 600
Axle/Gears: 9" Moser 3.50 True trac
Bottle access
Pull the side cover back and the valve and gauge are easilly accessable. Makes it handy to shut off between rounds. Notice how I added a steel 90" fitting so the gauge is visable through the "peep" hole.
Last edited by antman89iroc; Sep 1, 2008 at 01:30 PM.
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From: Bertram (outside Austin), TX
Car: 87 GTA
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Dana M78 3.27 posi
Re: Stealthy nitrous install
Is the injector plate between the throttle body & plenum? Is there an obvious throttle switch for it?
Nice hiding the tank, but I'm curious about the engine hiding too.
Before FI existed, I had a friend who had plumbed the nozzles to the bottom of the intake, through the back of the block & covered it with split loom Looking at the engine, there was no NOS to be found.
Nice hiding the tank, but I'm curious about the engine hiding too.
Before FI existed, I had a friend who had plumbed the nozzles to the bottom of the intake, through the back of the block & covered it with split loom Looking at the engine, there was no NOS to be found.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,440
Likes: 2
From: huntsville, al
Car: 89 IROC
Engine: 6.8 HSR N2O
Transmission: TKO 600
Axle/Gears: 9" Moser 3.50 True trac
Bottle mounting
Pull the panel and everything's accessable. The base is made from a plastic paint mixing bucket from Home Depot. I screwed it to a 2 x 4 trimmed to make it wedge in just the right position. bottle was put in place and the short (usually the bottom bracket) was bolted on to mark the mounting position. I attached it to the bracket that used to hold the spare tire. I then removed everything and lined the entire spare tire/trunk area with heavy plastic. I reinstalled the lower board/bucket assembly and used "foam stuff" to fill in all around the board and bucket. As it started to harden I trimmed the plastic and tucked it into the bucket. It makes a super snug "cup holder" and its insulated too! And the bucket makes a good place to keep the wrench to hook everything up. I have a "plug" for the N2O line when the bottle's out of the car.
Last edited by antman89iroc; Sep 1, 2008 at 01:31 PM.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,440
Likes: 2
From: huntsville, al
Car: 89 IROC
Engine: 6.8 HSR N2O
Transmission: TKO 600
Axle/Gears: 9" Moser 3.50 True trac
N2O line routing
Nothing special here. Just ran the hose through a grommet and sealed it up with RTV. I used clamps to keep the line in place in the rear wheel well but simply wire tied it to the SFC's under the car. I snaked the line up through the front wheel well right where the EMC wiring comes through.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,440
Likes: 2
From: huntsville, al
Car: 89 IROC
Engine: 6.8 HSR N2O
Transmission: TKO 600
Axle/Gears: 9" Moser 3.50 True trac
Fuel line, switch and relay
I tapped the fuel line on my HSR where the old schrader valve was. Note I installed a standard A/C shrader valve so most standard pressure gauges will look right up.
The limit switch was mounted using the bracket provided. It took a bit of tweeking to get it to acctuate properly.
The relay "power" wire was connected directly to the alternator via a fuse. The "signal" wire was connected to the fog lamps!
The whole assembly was then tied to the factor wires on the valve cover.
The limit switch was mounted using the bracket provided. It took a bit of tweeking to get it to acctuate properly.
The relay "power" wire was connected directly to the alternator via a fuse. The "signal" wire was connected to the fog lamps!
The whole assembly was then tied to the factor wires on the valve cover.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,440
Likes: 2
From: huntsville, al
Car: 89 IROC
Engine: 6.8 HSR N2O
Transmission: TKO 600
Axle/Gears: 9" Moser 3.50 True trac
Solinoids and nozzle
The solinoids were mounted with the supplied bracket to the back of the A/C compressor. I covered all the braided lines with wire loom to disguise them.
The MAF sensor took a bit of trimming on the inside to clear the mounting nut. Just don't go too far into the sensor so the spray won't affect the readings. There is plenty of room but be carefull. BTW my screens and fins had previously been removed.
The nozzle enteres the intake tract on the left side of the car. Notice in the pics how I angled the nozzle to direct the spray right at the TB. The spring is there to keep the nozzle properly allighen since the boot is flexable.
The MAF sensor took a bit of trimming on the inside to clear the mounting nut. Just don't go too far into the sensor so the spray won't affect the readings. There is plenty of room but be carefull. BTW my screens and fins had previously been removed.
The nozzle enteres the intake tract on the left side of the car. Notice in the pics how I angled the nozzle to direct the spray right at the TB. The spring is there to keep the nozzle properly allighen since the boot is flexable.
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Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,440
Likes: 2
From: huntsville, al
Car: 89 IROC
Engine: 6.8 HSR N2O
Transmission: TKO 600
Axle/Gears: 9" Moser 3.50 True trac
Re: Stealthy nitrous install
Is the injector plate between the throttle body & plenum? Is there an obvious throttle switch for it?
Nice hiding the tank, but I'm curious about the engine hiding too.
Before FI existed, I had a friend who had plumbed the nozzles to the bottom of the intake, through the back of the block & covered it with split loom Looking at the engine, there was no NOS to be found.
Nice hiding the tank, but I'm curious about the engine hiding too.
Before FI existed, I had a friend who had plumbed the nozzles to the bottom of the intake, through the back of the block & covered it with split loom Looking at the engine, there was no NOS to be found.
I just didn't want it to scream "HEY LOOK AT ME I GOT NOTROUS!!!"
Last edited by antman89iroc; Sep 2, 2008 at 05:00 PM.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,440
Likes: 2
From: huntsville, al
Car: 89 IROC
Engine: 6.8 HSR N2O
Transmission: TKO 600
Axle/Gears: 9" Moser 3.50 True trac
Re: Stealthy nitrous install
Thanks! I wanted the car to basically appear stock. Well... you know... walk softly and carry a big stick! That's one of the reasons I opted to use the fog light switch to arm the nitrous system. Looks stock and even has a indicator light.
I'm also looking into Cold Fusion's nitrous control system that shuts everything down when something's wrong. It ties into the TPS sensor so there would be no external limit switch; more stealthy. It's got a "window" switch which would come in quite handy since I'm running a T5. It's kinda hard to pedal it off the line without engaging the nitrous.
As far as the nozzle location goes, I considered entering the MAF/intake boot from the bottom to better conceal it, but it would have been a pain in the a$$ to change jets. And it seems that I can't keep frrom changing the power level up/down. I mean this kit goes up to 200 WHP (thats 250ish at the crank) and I have a stock bottom end! But damn it runs strong there!!! Did I mention 7.90's @ 93+ 1/8 mile? Not bad for a daily driver. I keep the 150 WHP jets in for "everyday" use.
I'm also looking into Cold Fusion's nitrous control system that shuts everything down when something's wrong. It ties into the TPS sensor so there would be no external limit switch; more stealthy. It's got a "window" switch which would come in quite handy since I'm running a T5. It's kinda hard to pedal it off the line without engaging the nitrous.
As far as the nozzle location goes, I considered entering the MAF/intake boot from the bottom to better conceal it, but it would have been a pain in the a$$ to change jets. And it seems that I can't keep frrom changing the power level up/down. I mean this kit goes up to 200 WHP (thats 250ish at the crank) and I have a stock bottom end! But damn it runs strong there!!! Did I mention 7.90's @ 93+ 1/8 mile? Not bad for a daily driver. I keep the 150 WHP jets in for "everyday" use.
Last edited by antman89iroc; Sep 3, 2008 at 12:02 AM.
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