I know they take longer to build boost but how bad is it really with a tpi motor since it has a lot of low end. Also how do you keep the turbo covered from road grime, rain, etc, some time of shield ? Without it heating up? Any pics of your setup?

 

It's been a long time since I talked to the guys who are doing these kits, but I used to live in Utah where they are built. They say that the turbos that they use don't have much in the way of lag, but they likely size the turbo specifically for the application in that regard. They work on exhaust pressure, and they are different types of turbos (at least the exhaust portion) They don't really have much in the way of heat problems, because the exhaust is much cooler by the time it reaches the turbo.


The one big con for these systems that I feel is this:

I've heard many of them, and they sound decently cool, but you can hear the turbo even a little bit too much in my opinion. The waste gate empties into open air near the rear of the car, so when the waste gate opens at high boost, you can hear the hiss, and it can sound like you have a large exhaust leak... I have this thing with how my cars sound, so this is a bit of a turn-off for me.

There is also a LOT more plumbing to deal with since you are going the length of the car with your intake tube.



In my own personal opinion, I prefer the in-compartment turbos and the more traditional routing for inter-cooler/intake tubes.

 

Im guessing you want to keep the cat n everything in place and working, why you want to run rear mounted and why it was designed.

Though you could still get a rear kit so the turbo is right being so fardown the exhaust chain but still run it under the hood, right after the cat have the exhaust take a lazy turn to the drivers side then back up and under the hood, long as its a lazy wide turn with out sharp bends, you can get it under the hood like normal but have a turbo made for being so far down the pipe.

Its also better protected then if you ask me and you can give it better air then having a cone filter under the car in the back sucking road dust......

 

Do the rear mount its fine I have no turbo lag and if you need make a little housing for your air filter.
Besides the little issues and some tweaking you will enjoy it, just like any mod.

 

If done right there is little to no lag. The main things you need to wory about is keeping heat in the system till it gets to the turbo, have the turbo sized right, and minimize backpressure after the turbo.

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/forced...urbo-saga.html

That is a very informative site.

 

Yup, spooling is mostly about heat (energy). It is surprising to see someone realizing this. Most just want to play with tiny-HP-limiting turbines in RMT setups because they built it wrong.

 

anyone got any pics of this?

 

i can get some of my dads 98 trans am..its got a sts rear mount..

 

Man, get all the pictures you can get... I'm back to thinking about slapping a setup on my '97 TA, which although it has a different engine than your dad's 98, virtually everything else is the same. Feel free to email them to me if you have problems posting them all up...

 

I would like to see pics.

 

 

i'm thinking about going this route .

 

Interesting, now how do you shield it from road dirt and grime or if you get caught in rain? Without it heating up? I don't think water and dust is ideal for it lol

 

I'll be building a RMT setup over the winter, although mine will be particularly unique by the way I'm looking to do it with twin 70mm's. Some calculations I've done show that exhaust heat is very important since 150 degree cooler exhaust at the turbo made for a 6psi increase in exhaust back pressure, and this makes me want to make a comparison of non-insulated vs. insulated exhaust. Once I start to really make stuff I'll start a thread.

 

Sweet, I would love to see it.

 

For the price of 409 S/S I would use that at a minimum to retain heat. Just need to watch the design for cracking problems.

 

ceramic coat everything to hold heat in.
you can do it yourself and lets the parts heat cure once installed.

 

I had a thought on using some metal screen wrapped around the pipes and soaked in a ceramic mix that'd harden up, since the header wrap I used last season didn't seem to work as good as I'd like. I'm actually leaning toward some fiberglass insulation, this one in particular: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140492490352&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

 

header wrap and fiberglass like that will hold water when its off.
causing the pipes to rust much faster.

 

I'm gonna try this, let me see what I come up with. Looks like a fun project.