can nitrous be used with out going forged on the lower end? if so is there a safe hp range you should not go over? i have a 350 4bolt i was thinking about doing this to. i have not put the motor together yet so i can go forged if needed but was just curious. i thought it would be cool to have like a 50 to 100hp shot just for the occasional fun.

 

You can spray that much on a non forged piston, you just need to be more careful that you dont run lean and/or detonate. Forged pistons are more tolerant of detonation while cast pistons can sometimes just shatter. But guys have sprayed 200 shots on stock L98 bottoms without problems. I wouldnt advise that but a 100 shot is more than safe if you run a step colder plug and pull a few degs timing.

 

X2...

ive hit my car with a stock bottom end with 275, worst ive done is burn a few plugs down.. ive put probably 25 bottles through my car, no shot less then 175.

sprayed many SBE cars with 200+, and knock on wood, ive never popped a motor.

being careful wit hthe spray, along with a safe tune and cold non projected tip plugs...help a ton.

150 shot all day long, id never have an issue spraying that.

 

well i was thinking 100 shot would be plenty i'm hoping the motor will be about 400hp with out n20 so a little shot would be enough. i'v never been in a car with n20 so i have no idea what it feels like. would a 100 shot be felt pretty good, comparable to a turbo kicking in?'

thanks

 

I think you will like a 100 shot.

I had about a 475-480ish hp 383 with a 150 hit and the difference was HUGE. The first time I sprayed it, at the track it was the most incredible car experience I ever been thru. It only ran 10.9 at 124-125 that night on an overly rich and too much timing pulled tune, but it felt incredible. It felt much more fun than my turbo car does and the turbo car is much faster.

 

you made my day i know i had a supra with 17lbs of boost and when it kicked in it kicked in hard. i'v heard from a couple people nitrous hits harder and responds faster but i'v never experienced it. i guess i'll find out thanks for the input.

 

Yeah my turbo car kicks in hard and fast too.. its pretty violent but the pull just doesnt feel the same as the nitrous hit, even tho the car was slower with nitrous. It was just a fun setup when that instant torque rush cam in.. Especially if you try spraying off the line at the track with drag slicks and a nice 3000 rpm or higher stall speed. That launch will change your life haha.

 

I'm definetly looking forward to it. is it "get what you pay for" with nitrous kits or are they all pretty much the same spray = go fast

 

All about the same. Sometimes they all use the same brand solenoids but just put their logo on it and charge extra.

I ran a LT1 kit from harris speed works. Worked well for my stealth ram motor. I fabbed up a few little brackets to mount the solenoids and it worked out well. I bought their WOT switch bracket for TPI/LT1 TB's and it worked well. Wired it all into my Mallory 685 box with window switch and timing retard.

Thats the thing about nitrous. Lots of extra safety stuff to get that ensures you wont blow something up. Definately should look at a ignition box with timing retard and window switch functions like the 685. Its a pretty easy install. Window switch is an RPM activation point and cutoff for the solenoids so you dont spray while over revving or spray to early. Timing retard is for running same chip tune and use the box to pull timing when on the spray.

 

ok i admit I'm not gear head, still in training so I'll have to research some of the stuff you talked about. before i buy all these parts I'm going to do some major reading. im definitely going that route though. i totally don't understand timing yet or detonation. I'm 33 have had tons of fast cars but never spent much time under the hood. this motor i should be putting together real soon so like i mentioned I'll have to do some serious research. I'd like it to be all automated. although my motor will be carb. not sure if that limits me or not. anyway thanks for the input.

 

carb you can run a simple plate kit and jet it for 100 shot and be done with it. Whatever timing you run that motor at n/a, say 36 deg which is common, then pull 4-5 deg and run 31 with a step colder spark plug and it should run fine as long as its not too lean. Dont want it to be pig rich either. Most motors with good heads will only need 32-34 deg for max n/a power so you can just pull 2-3 deg and just run 31-32 deg timing all the time, and just spray a 100 shot.

 

that was pretty easy to understand, thank you. when someone says "pull timing" the only timing i know of is when you put the timing light to a tab on the cam cover. or is this something i would have to do with a timing wheel? after thinking about the pull when sprayed I'm already looking at kits on ebay lol i'm running port matched,polished and bowl blended vortecs with flat top pistons .060 over. only thing i'm waiting on is for my pistons to get here then i can start assembly.... does the oil pan go on the top or bottom of the motor lol kidding

 

Yeah I dont know what distributor setup you are using, and I'm not all that familar with carb setups and mechanical/vacuum advance dizzys. But all you want to do is limit your max timing to be around 4-5 deg less than your optimal WOT natural aspirated timing. General rule of thumb is 2 deg timing subtracted for every 50 shot nitrous.

So if you can limit your total advance to 32 deg that would be a nice starting point for a 100 shot.

You can rev your motor to 3000-3500 and see what timing is being displayed on the balancer with a light. Then limit that to 32 or so.

 

doesnt sound to complicated. thanks, and if i burn down my garage ... i have insurance