so right after u pass inspection and get the car on the road what the first thing u do???? take it for a drive probably but noooo not me i cut the single 3 inch ex system off the car and started on my dual ex system

 

NICE!

 

it got to dark to take more pics i did manage to get the driver side done. im going to be running open downpipes with the exits comming out behind the front tires.

which also happens to be 100% legal were i live

if it dosent snow to bad tonight ill get more pictures tommorow and finish up the passenger side

 

... nice, much much better than going this route;

 

the best kind is the invisible kind. i dont want to see exhaust anywhere on the front of a car.

 

ill be cutting the downpipes back about 3 inches from the edge of the rockers and painting them blacl so u cant see them. the only time u should notice the ex exits there is when i get on the antilag system and it shoots flames out the sides

 

downpipes are done and in ( need to take pics)
wideband is back in
and almost finished up my gauge/switch panel ( open hole is going to be for my boost gauge or an aem tru boost, havent decided on if im going to get a tru boost or ams 1000 yet) yreah i know my ecu has built in boost control but i dont like how its setup

 

i got it to idle right, but i get no change in afr when changing my fuel table, even at 115ve in the idle cells the afr does not change.

i have a fuel system issues somewere, i tried clamping off the return line to see if the motor richened up and it didnt.
so then i kicked on the second pump and still no afr change

so im going to check the fuel filter and if thats not it i have a feeling one of the pumps came unhoooked off the y block in the tank allowing the other pump to just dump fuel back in the tank

i really really hope its just the fuel filter


atleast it idles like it should now

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/blah2_2333530.htm

 

Did you cut an access panel, or did you drop the tank...?

 

i droped the tank since i didnt have the tools needed to cut the access panel at the time.

if i have to drop the again i will be cutting an acess door, though if i do have to drop it i may just buy a fuel cell

 

well heres a shot of my rigged up fp gauge at idle

and thats with both pumps on with the engine off im getting 15-22psi 12-14 psi with engine on
spoke with areomotive and the pumps are being sent in to be looked at, repaired/replaced

i just ordered 3 corvette zr-1 pumps to install till i get my 2 340lph pumps back only paid 15 bucks each pump brand new.

now i just need to figure out how to wire the pumps ill prolly do 2 on with the key and 3rd with boost

and im deffinalty cutting an acess door into the hatch area this time so i dont have to drop the tank yet again when i get my pumps back

 

ok from what i can find these pumps are 190LPH
190lph = 50.1GPH
302LB/HR divided by BFSC of .62 = 480hp per pump at 43 psi

so these 3 pumps should support just shy of 1,500 hp @ 43psi of fp if the info i found on them is correct

and just to compare them to the aremotive pumps
340LPH=89.9GPH
540LB/HR divided by BFSC of .62 = 870 hp per pump at 43 psi
so both pumps should be able to support 1700 hp

granted hp able to be supported will drop as pressure goes up unfortunatly i cant get a flow sheet for the zr-1 pumps

but hell it looks like the zr-1 pumps might just stay in the car even when i get my 340lph stealth pumps back from areomotive

 

Normally you derate to 80% for process and voltage variation. So 190 becomes 190*.8 = 152 lph. Then take into account boost pressure rise. You are using 43PSI which means no boost. Suppose you are running 14 PSI of boost then the pump sees 43+14 = 57 PSI and that means the volume is even less. Probably 20% less so now 152*.8 = 121 lph.
That is about 32 gph which is 32*5.8 = 185 lb/hr, and at .62 BSFC it comes out to 298 FWHP for the 190 lph pump.

I would use those numbers. It is your engine and the safety margin is up to so use which ever numbers you feel comfortable with.

 

Dave, lemme know if you still need the box bro...

 

yeah i do stillw aiting for u to tell me how much witht he shipping lol

 

No air fuel ratio change? does the motor change tone/characteristics at idle when doing any of the changes you mentioned, like VE adjustments and return line pinching? just curious if the o2 sensor was bad or guage was faulty and not changing with the motor's fuel changes.

 

after a lil bit with the return line pinched off it would richen up, the sensor and gauge are brand new

 

how much shipped ??????????? i get paid again tuesday

 

oh im aware i just used the stock fp since thats all i could find for the zr-1 pumps even using the 80% figure its still good for 900hp. and im just using the pumps temp until areomotive sends me back 2 new 340lph pumps

 

Gonna hit up the UPS Store on Route 9 after work, they're open until seven o'clock at night here so I can get it out today for ya Dave. I'll send you a PM in the late afternoon w/the amount, so you should get it around lunch time. Send me the shipping information in a PM, I need more than just the zip code lol...

 

It all depends on the safety margin you want. I have been running a stock TPI pump up to 360-ish FWHP at 12 PSI of boost with a stock TPI regulator. I wouldn't recommend doing this as there is no safety margin, but I don't really care if the stock 305ci comes apart.

 

well know why my areomotive pumps died the return line got plugged upsolid.

found out when i installed my vette pumps and the car wouldnt run i hooked up the gauge and fp was well over 100psi

dirt some rust and lil bits of rubber hose, previous owner disconected the return line and used an inline pump that put out 7 psi when they put the carb on.the return was just laying under the hood disconected, so im assuming it just got a bunch of trash in it.

it pluged up in the sending unit were the return line goes into the tank theres 2 90* bends in the metakl return line there and thats were all the gunk build up and pluged up the line.

lil brakleen and some compressed air cleared the lines

i will say i am sure glad i cut an fuel pump acess panel in the trunk today, i must have had the pumps in out and out atleast 6 times today.

takes about 5 mins to pull the pumps out of the tank now
#1 fold down rear seat
#2 pull back carpet
#3 unbolt acress door
#4 undo 4 hose clamps
#5 knock out retianing ring
#6 lift sending unit assembly out of tank

i will never drop a fuel tank in a f-body again to change pumps the acess door makes it so damn easy


mounting the 3rdpump is going to be a pain so i left it out, just going to run the 2 190lph pumps till my 340lph areomotives get back

 

The two 190lph will get it done. lol, is that a wood burning kit soldering iron? I started out with one of them years ago.

 

lol no its a radioshack 12$ special, i sent my gf to the store to get me a new tip for it and she came back with a really short tip, though i must say the short tip heats up alot faster then the original long tip, just sucks for getting into tight places lol

i will say these vette pumps push some presure, with a single pump deadheaded it pushed over 100 psi no problem with both pumps deadheaded it actually blew out one of the rubber lines on me

i think these pumps are more then 190lph even with the return line unblocked i cant get base fuel presure below 52psi and with the engine off it spikes to 60 psi and thats with just one pump running

 

awesome build im latching on to this one keep up the good work!

 

Absolutely agree. The access panel came out pretty good on my '84 Anniversary TA, and I'm getting ready to do one for the GTA now. This one will have an actual door built into the panel though. Do you have any pics of the hole you made, and what tool did you use...

Can't believe you went the worm clamp route though Dave, no compression locks?

 

ill take some pictures tommorow i was tied up all day with a cam swap, car runs so much nicer now.

i used a pair of tin snips and a drill to get the tin snips a place to start cutting.
ill get u pics of the complete acess panel tommorow i used a piece of colored lexan for the cover for now, ill be replacing it with a real hinged aliminum door in the future

and for now heres a new video this is right after the cam swap need to rretune the car now, the video also has the ex completed so what u hear is how the car will sound on the street and is 100% legal here

http://www.streetfire.net/video/twin...ap_2338607.htm

 

I couldn't find the law stating that was legal. All I found was that you can't remove the stock CATS like most states. Could you post a link to that law saying you don't need mufflers or meet a sound level?

http://le.utah.gov/~code/TITLE41/htm/41_06a162600.htm

 

its not the whole state its the county im in, there is no emmisions inspection, 90% of the cars in the county run glasspacks or stright pipes, the only requirement is the ex must not dump under the passenger compartment

so turbouts behind the front tires are ok, dumping ex by the firewall isnt.
duals dumped before the rear axle is iffy unless u put turnouts to the sides of the car on them

basically as long a su have good tires brakes working horn blinkers brake lights and the windshield isnt cracked the car passes inspection.

there is no local pd towns are patroled by the sherrifs and they dont cover inspection issues with auto's the highway patrol does, so yeah u can be harrasses if u go out of county but they still cant give u a ticket as long as u live in a county that dosent require emmisions inspection.

thats what all the sherrifs and state inspection center told me.ill see if i cant find something with all the requirements to post up

 

sounds damn good even with the bad video . good job

 

I tried to make it more viewable, but it's still very grainy though....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gE0WEZcJWpI

 

temporary budget paint job till spring time
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/show...wpost&t=634124

 

thanks video is crap since it was shot with my cellphone at nightime but it takes decent videos in the daylight, ill get some new vids up soon

 

Where did you get the vette pumps so cheap if you don't mind me asking.

 

ebay

 

Been there done that once upon a time....;

 

do love the sound of turbos spinning down
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/blah_2342216.htm

 

round 2 of mods begins, the tpi intake and 65# injectors are comming out and are being replaced with this
and 120# injectors

 

Send me over that lower TPI intake Dave, and I'll open it up for you. Save your money bro...

 

how good is a 3500-75-- manifold for everyday driving ? do they drive horriable or are they just a slug unti 3500 ? mines a dd but i'm in the higher rpm's alot but my wife drives the car also so it has to be sumwhat easy to drive .

 

He'll definitely try to match that intake with the right camshaft and stall speed. Doing this, the car will essentially drive normally... until you stab it of course.

 

it wont be bad at all, basicly with port injection u can get away with the low velocity at low rpms because the manifold is only flowing air, so there is no fuel to drop out of suspension and puddle on the intake floor.

so the intake will have a wider powerband then if it had a carb ontop of it

 

lol i could do that myself im just tierd of the tpi intake, though we will see how good it does on the 27th

im heading to vegas on the 27th for dyno and to hit las vegas speedway, the 27th is there first midnight opening for the track

 

Bro, could you believe my old 355 short block didn't even sell yet for $200.00 bucks? It's off to the machine shop next week over by your old stomping grounds (Sayerville), gonna have the 2-bolt mains converted to splayed 4-bolt mains. Gonna do something I always wanted to do with this engine, go with the Arao 32-valve heads, just unsure of which intake I'm going to go with (maybe the miniram). Wait til you see which turbo eventually goes with that combo...

 

if shipping wouldnt cost 3x the asking price for the shortblock id buy it lol

 

A few guys in Jersey wanted it, and I even said I would deliver it for them up to 50 miles. Oil pressure was excellent when pulled, no knocks when pulled, bores are smooth, but of course I would throw new bearings in it just for peace if mind which is a breeze. I even slapped on a brand new SFI flexplate without even raising the asking price. Long story short I'm gonna keep it and build it for spring lol...

By the way, how is the paint coming along? One of the member's on this board from North Jersey painted his Trans Am with Black rustoleum, and it came out very nice, even without the clear coat. Check it out...;

 

hit me up, im like 2 mins away from LVMS and i have no gearhead friends over here either lol

 

Not to get off topic but I heard those heads are a huge pain in the butt and are just a gimic. Some claim only 20-30 sets were ever made and not all sold yet... just alot of money to spend on something that may have alot of difficulty in setting up and getting to work correctly.

 

Spoke to Russ a few times already, asked if I could come down to the shop and watch a dyno session before the actual purchase and he agreed. I'm very familiar with these heads, as they used to be called Old Dominion heads beforehand and Super Chevy did countless comparisons with them against the best the aftermarket had to offer at the time, and just like the name they pretty much dominated. Russ Arao eventually bought the rights and renamed the cylinder heads to Arao heads...

http://araoengineering.com/pakages.htm

Below are the Old Dominion Ford heads...

 

See I was reading about them on another forum and some of the "top" guys talked alot of crap on them. I've never seen them or what not, and remain skeptical until I do see setups using them. I always liked the idea just not the price tag Good luck with your setup, i'd be very interested in seeing how that turns out.