This is from 1998 when they were still the Old Dominion brand, but the cylinder heads were much improved since then;

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...t/viewall.html

 

unless you can physically see them and hold them, id think twice about ordering a set unless its a real set of old dominions from a legit seller.

http://forums.corral.net/forums/5-0-...date-long.html

 

Russ Arao worked at Dominion, and these are his creation. Buying from the link I provided above is buying directly from the man who developed them... he is as legit as they come in regards to these heads. Not to mention, I will only throw my money down in person, and take them with me the very same day.

 

yeah i just remembered that thread and thought id share

 

anychance u can get me a list of shops in the area that have dynos so i can try to setup a dyno apt for the 27th.
ill deff let u know when im down that way

 

Dave, lemme know if you want the LT1 intake that I never finished, comes with throttle body and fuel rails, you just need to finish welding it up. I have no more use for it...

 

i still want that heaterbox but u never gave me a price lol, what all needs to be welded on the lt1 intake still

 

The TPI distributor hole, it's already fit to install, just needs to be clamped in place and tigged and/or migged, that should take no more than twenty minutes to do. The bolt holes leading to the cylinder heads need to be aligned, I would just fill in all the holes with aluminum and make new ones based on the intake gasket that matches your cylinder heads, that too takes a short amount of time to do. Other than that, you would need to run a remote thermostat housing. Could do everything, including the box, as a package deal if you want bro...

 

give me a price on it all shipped to 84713, lol i havent been driving the car cause i have no heat lmao

 

yeah ill do some looking around, theres got to be some in the area too.

 

thanks man

 

i donno about the 280hp gain with the head swap.

 

LDL speed shop right at LVMS, need to schedule 2-3 weeks in advance.

http://ldlspeedshop.com/index.php



i have a contact that may have a couple more so ill ask him later after he gets off work....

 

thnx man ill give them a call tommorow

 

rob i get paid tommorow get me that price and cost of shipping

right foot 1 transmission 0

i knew it wouldnt last long as it was never built to handle a forced induction motor, it was built to go behind a hot n/a355 sb but i did figure it would last a lil longer then it did

round 2 to ensue soon

 

still gonna make it out this way? prolly not since you blew up the trans lol

 

ive got a spare trans i can drop in the car for the time being

 

Let me know exactly what you want/need Dave. A few pics without the LT1 throttle body, but the throttle body comes with it either way. The back piece fits exactly where it needs to be, all lined up, just needs to clamped in place and welded. The bolt holes I would do over again by filling all of them with aluminum, then redoing/matching them to your setup...

 

the intake and heaterbox/blowermotor

 

I pulled everything out of the garage, heater box, blower motor w/wiring, and LT1 intake stuff. Do you need the LT1 intake ported Dave, as I can open that sucker up tremendously for you...

 

What tranny are you using??

 

nope dont need it ported

 

700r4 for now eventually a th400 /w brake or 4l80 with full manual vb and trans brake

 

i wrecked the car today dont know what im going to do with it yet as it got towed over to the body/frame shop since it wrinkled the strut tower, if its not saveable i will be parting out the car.

the turbo stuff will not be split up but rather tried to be sold as a complete kit

headers,turbos,coldside,intercooler,downpipes,megasquirt ecm and harness,new precision 65# injectors, twin areomotive 340lph pumps, oil lines,drain lines,wastegates etc etc

 

Thats bad news man it was looking nice too
how much you gonna be asking for it?

 

i need to figure out what i have in it all first, the body shop said right now its a 50/50 shot at it being worth to fix.
from what i could tell the passenger side strut tower has a nice wrinkle, the passenger side a-arm and spindle are broke, think it twisted up the k member and god knows what else

 

wow that freakin sucks! hope you can get it fixed


if not i know where you can get a nice 2dr s10 blazer and put one of those turbos on lol, jk

 

if its not fixable im going to switch to something with only 2 wheels
maybe a gsx-r or busa

 

Hey man don't feel bad at least it was t ur dad driving it and u watching from outside how he ends up in the ditch with ur turbo transam he hit the ditch so hard that the driver side tower dented the brake booster most people would have said it was totaled but I didn't wanna take everything out of it and redo it all so we took it to a frame shop and fixed it. Don't give up on the car I almost did but I'm glad I didn't is it ok to ask what happened?

 

Look at post 198 page 4 on my thread ull see pics of how bad it was after I removed the fenders and stuff

 

simple anwser is i had the car out after putting the new 700r4 in it and was messing around being an idiot on the dirt back roads. thought i was like ken block for a few mins till i ended up in the ditch.

noones fault but my own though shouldnt have been stupid trying to drift around the corners

 

awww man, i was so excited to see how this project turned out. Sucks to hear man but that can happen I know.

 

it might not be dead, talked to the body shop and the crease inthe strut tower isnt as bad as i thought, and its foward of the strut so its easier to fix.

its looking like new strut/mount spindle,spring, a-arm and k-member so far along with a fender ill know for sure in a few days though

 

car will be back home next week !!!!!!

 

Updates...???

 

few weeks ago i started shaving the rear bumper cover pics in a thread in the fab forum, ill also be shaving were the badges go on the gfx and the emblem on the nose
dorrhandles have to stay since the local tracks frown apon shaved door handles
and recently i
swapped out the dual zr-1 pumps for brand new dual aremototive 340lph stealth pumps
puled all the sound deadning material out of the rear seat/trunk area
starting to remove all the seam sealler from all the seams in the car so i can stich weld them with my mig to stiffen up the car and stop all the normal squeaks and rattles
once im done with that ill start installing the 10pt cage and door bar swingouts

id have more done but for a week it wa sin the 70's and the last 3 days its been snowing ,later this week were supposed to get back into the mid70's so ill get more done on it

edit
almost forgot ill be selling my prescision turbo 65# low z injectors they have about 150 miles on them
once there sold ill be upgrading to 120# injectors

 

How is she running though, is she dialed in with what she already has? Any vids...?

 

after swaping the fuel pumps im chasing the same issue i had a few months ago
fire the motor up and the car runs about 5 minutes then it just dies.it dosent run rough or anything it just dies like somone shut the key off. if i try to refire the motor right away it will not fire.
if i let it sit for about 5 mins it will refire and do the same thing again

fuel presure checks out at a constant 72psi and it never drops, so im thinking the icm is going bad going to pick up a new one and see what happenes

 

Did you coat the current ICM w/dielectric grease...?

 

its still the factory 1989 icm, going to swap it out

 

the only question now is do i try to hunt down a real ac delco, or do i try out an mallory/acell or msd module

 

I have a couple of AC Delco 8-pin modules lying around...

 

how much u want for one?

 

Have no idea, throw me an offer lol...

 

i actually ende dup buyinig a billet duistributor off ebay for 55 bucks comes with a ne wmoudle so im going to try that, if that fails on me ill switch to a crank trigger and modify the dizzy for a cam signal

 

well i got bored today so me and a friend went out to some of the backroads and marked out a 1/4 mile.
armed with a stopwatch and my speedo i cam up with a very dispointing 12.63 speedo read just about 130mph when i hit the marker so my speedo has to be off
did that @ 15 psi

even with not being able to actually launch the car i still firgured id get a better time that that specially at 15 pounds of boost

 

Hey ur stopwatch could be off 130 should bin or close to 10s depending on launch. Btw do u have a link to the thread in the fabrication section? I couldn't find it

 

i figured it would be atleats omewhere inthe high 11's,as far as the mph who knos i did have to peddle the car alot in 1st and 2nd.
as far as the 130 it just didnt feel that fast maybe 120 but i still think more around 115mph.then again the car rides so nice it may just be to hard to tell and speedo may be infact correct

which thread r u looking for?

 

Dave where some videos man?? LOL

 

lol between my buddy yelling oh **** and holding onto whatever he could in the car, and having to keep both hands on the wheel to keep the car stright there was no way in hell i was going to chance holding my cellphone in one hand to take video.

i have to make some sort of mount for my cellphone,my new cell takes videos in hd so they should come out really nice