add 2-4* timing to the idle error tables and it should idle better. idling at 12:1 might foul the plugs eventually. i had the same problem

 

Ok Ill give that a shot. It hasent fouled the plugs yet but I bet if it idled for more then 5 minuets straight it would.

 

Mark I can almost guarantee your car isn't as loud as you think it is lol. I drove mine around with open headers for two months before I put the car away, had no trouble at all from the law. Heck, you were around when I fired her up with open headers. I know your car is quieter than mine lol, you got a turbo to quiet it down! I'm actually considering removing my exhaust after the header y-pipe, and just having permanent open headers. It'll save me some weight at least lol. I know how you feel though, I still back off the gas and idle if I'm going by police.

 

Its way louder then you remember it andrew. I guarentee that. Keep in mind Im working with 3 inch exhaust now and also a larger turbo.

You have to remember I have to now drive over a hr to norwalk come spring. That damm thing about gave me a headache driving it up here but not having the TCC locked up would cause that. Theres no way I can do a TH350 trans at the moment. I cant stand driving 70mph at 2700 rpms and thats with my 700R4 with 4 gears but not locked up, locked up its more like 2k. Imagin my 3.73's and a 3 speed trans..lol were talking a good 2500-3k crusing @ 70mph......

The car is really loud when I floor it..lol exsecially with my screamer pipe off the wastegate..LMAO

 

put a muffler on it, when I changed my dumped side pipe to a full 3" with a straight through muffler it was fantastic, made the car feel like a CAR again. Sure you give up a few HP but the car is SO much more fun to drive. an yes, the headaches suck those went away with the new exhaust also. thats my 2 cents

 

What muffler type did you get? Like a straight through pack or resinator one or a real chambered muffler? Im going to get something on it. Something I can just unbolt for the track.

 

this but in mild steel, i can only find it in stainless now...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wl...3/media/images

its a 3" in/out, straight through, perforated tube inside with fiberglass damping material

im looking for a pic of it installed installed

EDIT, best I got:

 

I dont really have that option as I planed to dump in somwhere in the front of the car for now. Ive got some good room up there to add a decent muffler though. Im still woundering about it, and what can be done up there. I wish I would have ran the DP to the rear of the car but I personally could not fab something up like that.

@34blazer... It worked joe. I added 1.5* of timing and now a good idle at 14.0 or so. Good enough for me for the time being.

I just took the car for a drive. I have the racerender so you can see the info. The questions I now have again...lmao Sorry on the video about he colors on the bar graphs. They looked ok till I uploaded the video. AFR was 11.5-11.8 on all boost. IAT was 87-100* on all boost, Boost was a solid 10psi with no spike the whole lick.

How reliable is that IAT sensor and also if those wires going to it were close to a heat source, would the feed back be "not correct" I just find it hard to belive that just from me warming up the car and driving it 1 mile that the IAT is 100+ degrees. The IAC bung is in steel but its only 6 inches in length of total pipe and everything else is Silicon connected to it....

Also the boost is still going down. I swear its 1psi every time I drive it. I first started at 13psi and now down to 10psi. Not that im complaining I just hope thats carbon or somthing and not a turbo issue. But the good thing is that WG spring is really a 8psi on(or at least thats what its advertised as....lol) Thats why in the video I acted like 2nd gear lasted forever.

Idle is better. I had no issue with the connection or anydata.



ONE more question. Can alky go bad? Ive had the same stuff stitting in the tank for a good 3 months now. I know its not a air tight seal. Thanks again.

 

wow that thing cooks now! ill have to try that with the mustang lol

next time you burn a chip you can increase those values, just gives the ecm more control over fine tuning the idle, and stall recovery. since the VE of your engine is different from stock, and far different from a 4.3, the ecm cant tell the difference between those. i notice that a stock engine doesnt require much timing in the idle spark error tables as compared to the same engine with a more aggressive cam and better flowing heads.

 

Here I thought you were worried about it being too loud for law enforcement issues lol. I know EXACTLY what you mean though, about crusing at 2-3k rpms. If I'm lucky, I'll have an rpm cruise range that'll sound good, and won't bug the hell out of me too much. Luckily I only drive about 5 minutes to Norwalk

Can't wait till Spring, we should be pretty close to each other if all goes well You running Sportsman points again? I'm gonna sign up this year.

 

@andrew. I may not sign up for points just because of work. But Ill be there as much as I can, and it will be in sportsman.


@Joe. you mean increase the idle timing more? IIRC I just added timing to the 37kpa 600Rpm cell as that is cell that controls all the timing? Right?

Ive never messed with the dead band for timing either. Or any other table else then the F1 table when it comes to timing.

The car still wants to stumble a tad when I first shift it into gear from Idle in park. Any areas I can work on the recovery for that issue?

 

pff that is quiet, u dont need a muffler to quiet it down anymore just run the downpipe down alongside the driverside of the engine and then out under the firewall, from there u can dump it out the side of the car or run it to the back of the car

u could use abullet muffler on what u have now but the sound reduction will be minimal with that short of a downpipe


what is the speedlimit were u live?

 

oh yeah those iats are normal since u are pulling ai rinto the turbo from onder the hood

try new alky form a seal container, methanol will absorb water as it sits and does so rather fast.

 

Most of the roads arround me are 65 and 70. But who goes the speed limit...lmao

Im going to have to pipe in the air then. It was only like 60-65* out today.

 

even with those speed limits u will get better gas milage with the 3:73's
i got my best milage with the 4:10's and the 700r4 but never locked the converter

run the 700 for now but i highly suspect the trans and converter will not last long with the new setup, when it goes u will have to decide wether u want to keep dealing with the 700 or swap to something that wont break

 

hey fast somomne local to me has a snow performance meth tank ,made just for meth injection if ur interested he wants 5 bucks for it i pmed him for more info though looks to be a 1 or 2 quart tank

let me know if ur interested shippping would prolly be 5 bucks it should fit in a flat rate box

 

the idle timing error tables are used for the ecm to fine tune the idle, only time IAC moves is if there is a large variation in rpms. so if its surging, use those tables to tune the surge out, its the best way to fix it. adding to the values in those 2 tables gives the ecm more control over idle timing. watch your timing at idle and you will see it bouncing around. if you cant find those tables i can look for them for you


*HIJACK!* race render is pretty nifty lol

 

@ dave. Yea I want it!!! The snow tank.

 

@Joe. I must be blind as I dont see the Idle error tables. Im just working on the F1 main spark table. But i do understand what you are saying with the IAC bouncing arround as mind does do that somtimes, always right before the surge starts.

Nice vid with the mustang. I love that racerender stuff.

 

im pretty sure hes a member here so ill have him pm if he is

 

when you get a chance post up your xdf and bin, ill see if i can find something along those lines

 

They are in the idle table area:

Idle Speed Stabilizer Spark Compensation -vs- Positive RPM Error (F88)
Idle Speed Stabilier Spark Comp. -vs- Neg. RPM Error (F89)

RBob.

 

^WIN

 

Ok thanks. generly what would adding timing or subtracting timing do to those tables? What would help surging? Thanks again.

 

I got the blanket the other day, looks better I think. But due to the freezing weather and snow on the way its now on jack stand for a bit. But theres alot I need to do anyways before it nice out and I can drive it again.



Parts parts and more parts. Thats just a little bit of them. I have so much vrap i didnt even relize it.


@dave. I didnt hear from the guy but it is thanksgiving so I hope to hear from him soon.

 

adding timing to those tables will give the ecm more control over idle. adding 3-4* to both of those tables will eliminate surging.

 

Will adding timing to those tables add overall total timing to the normal SA?

 

he gave me his user name so u could pm him but i forgot it lol. ill log in on my local forums and pm it to ya a lil later


pfft turbo cars love the cold weather , it aint to cold to drive the car unless theres snow on the ground :P

 

no, because it adds to the SA at IDLE, no where else. and only if it needs it depending on how large the underspeed error is. and it can retard timing in an idle overspeed condition too.

its dynamic and ever changing, hence why the timing always bounces back and forth at idle.

 

@dave I have no Hvac in the car..lol its too cold and I want that rear end in there before I drive it again. I cant even attempt to floor it below 30mph or it just sits there and does a one wheelie peelie..

@joe. Ok thanks I understand now. Thanks for the help on that as I never knew what all those other Spark tables did.

 

the only difference between now and when u install the new rear is instead of a one wheel peel u will do it with both, or in the words of jeremy clarkson.

time for some 11's

 

Im thinking of picking this up as a overflow for the rad, fluid. Would it be large enough. Holds about 2.5 quarts .64 gallons Looks decent and is better then my old bottle just zip tied on im using now...lmao.

Also would using something like that work with alky??? Or is metal a no no for alky storage?? The have ones with a clear area so you can see how much is in it.. just woundering.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-X-9-Inch-S...9f6d1e&vxp=mtr

 

Funny you said that, it was snowing today lol.

 

i wouldnt use one for alky methanol can corrode aluminum, and steel can rust and that can get sucked up in the pump or clog ur injection nozzle

that being said the fuel tank in the alky dragster is made out of .032 aluminum and we never have issues with it , hell the main fuel line for the car is 2inch id aluminum tubing. but on ur car since u rely heavily on the meth injection i wouldnt chance it

lmao, our first snow was like 2-2.5 weeks ago,though it was 65* today go figure


i forgot fast doesnt have his heater core hooked up , i also dont have a heater core hooked up on my car thats why i havent moved it in a few weeks and its now comming apart for my new build

 

fast u can use one of these too

http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-BL...2ece56&vxp=mtr

holds 3/4 L

 

Lol it was about 60* on Thanksgiving, then snowing on Friday. That's awesome Ohio weather for ya.

 

Yea ohio is weird isnt it andrew. Oh well it gives us a chance to get working on our winter builds. Cant wait to be at the track hitting up 12's with ya.

@dave. Im going to make the hit on that catch can. That will work well for the coolent. Im going to go the safe route though and just get a plastic can for the alky. I like the washer tank i have now but the inside is just to gunked up for my taste. So if i cant get it cleaned out perfectly then Ill have to just get another tank of somesort.

 

did u pm that guy about that snow tank? shipping to u should only be 5-10 bucks

man work on my iroc has stopped for now i split my hand open at work the other day my boss just picked up a few tanning beds for me to install in the gym and i sliced my hand open on the base plate of the standup machine






dam thing sliced my hand open from my pinky to my thumb right across my palm

 

KISPTMP Under Idle/IAC scallers
Says Idle stabilizer min coolent tempeture for ISS logic. This is the ISS spark compinsation right?? Mines set to 151 degrees C. So its disabled. Is this something that needs to be ENABLED??

Also can someone explain to me what "steps" really mean?? Its a little hazy for me to understand.

One more thing, KISSPVT2 Under Idle/IAC scallers.
Says IAC battery voltage limit. Set to 9.00 volts???? Looks weird to me but I dont understand the logic there.

Im hoping some of this rings a bell to Rbob or 34blazer as its $59


@Dave, I pmed him but never heard back yet.

 

ill send hi a pm on my local forums and tell him to check his pm's

 

Ok

Heres the current SA table. Though Id toss it up here. Needs some smoothing here and there, and makes me laugh at the amount of timing under 40kpa and at idle

 

Scope this out... baddass!!
http://www.dump.com/turbotractor/

 

I wired up a few things today and noticed that the wastegate is broken...lol

Heres a video. I have no idea how long its been like that but it definitly needs replaced. I hate to do it but im not going back into those headers and welding up another flange for the WG. So this wastegate is a 38mm one. Are there any good 38mm ones that wont make me bankrupt?

To add I do remember the thing wanting to turn on the base when I put the engine back together but the shaft wasent like that at all.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dPk-U...ature=youtu.be

Also wired up a few switches that will over ride the alky and Fan. These are wired so that they only turn OFF the fan and alky. The fan and alky will always be armed when the ignition is keyed unless I use the switches to dissable them. I also wired up the boost controler and just set it to 10Psi. Considering that the WG is shot, I wont be driving it till that is fixed.

 

I fixed the wastegate. The set screw was just loose and the nut obvously loose. Thankfully as I dont have the cash to dish out for a new one...lol

 

put some red locktite on the set screw threads, if u pull the top off there is also 3 set screws under the springs that lock the shaft to the diaphragm in the wastegate

 

WG fixed and holds a nice 12psi constantly.

Heres some issues. Since it was 60* out today I went for a ride. Somthing keeps telling me that my alky nozzle may be too small for WOT pulls. The Injector duty cycle is no higher then with the other turbo but it seems like the IAT just keep creeping up. Start at about 20* above ambient when on a nice long drive. Then go down a little and creap up to 115 or so when going to 110Mph. Now I know the intercooler isnt there and was doing some help, but what are acceptable temps or a guideline of how much the temp should increase over a long pull???

I also need to pipe the outside air as im sure that will help also.

I did play with the IAT Vs. timing retard. Basically saying that if the temps are XX high then it will take out how much timing I want. I will say that is worthless as the resolution is horrible. I was running 16* of timing on one pull. Thats the 4* i wanted to be taken out if it was 130* or higher but since the resolution is limited to huge gaps, the computer rounded 110 up to 130?? So thats needs work as 16* of timing=overly rich, power loss, and false KR due to the richness.

Also that ISS compinsation was never enabled on my starter bin. Now its enabled and idles better, although sometimes it still stumbles, mainly in drive at a stop or when putting it into drive. Car pulls 13" of vac which is what i did last year. No vac leak.

 

155 * at the end of a pull is ok, when u start creeping up around 165-175* then u need to start to worry about knock

with my car ill end my run around 162* , my intercooler was always to small

on the dyno i was seeing around 220* but with my very limited timing it never hurt the thing

id buy a bigger nozzle up the activation point around 2-3 psi higher and see what she does

oh yeah i forgot that the no intercooler is why ur seeing more boost u have 0 presure drop now , with that tiny intercooler u had u prolly saw a 1.5-2 psi presure drop across the core

 

well like I said its staying at or below 110* for now.

The current nozzle is a 300cc one. What would be the next step up size to use?

 

Went for another drive after I think i may have finally smoothed out the idle problems. EDIT(its about 80% better but I think I need to search more for better injector offsets again)

Before the trip I ran the reference port from the WG straight to the intake and also the alky control contact stright to the intake. Before they were t-ed off the turbo reference. Now I can only manage 8.5psi or so at WOT compared to the 12psi earlier. Am I really loosing that much in the little amount of piping?

Also Im not sure if its because the alky contact now sees lower boost levels and comes on later(too late and not enough boost pressure vs. the contact coming on at 6psi), or if its because the turbo isnt as efficient at 8psi as 12psi, but the intake temps are starting to get too high for my taste. 130-140. Easiely 20-30* higher then earlier today @12psi.

And I still believe that alky I have is gone bad or at least weak. As it doent fry your nose when you woft it(sniff it) or at least nothing like it was 3 months ago when it was new.

 

that 90* on the turbo outlet is actually very restrictive , it also wouldnt surprise me if that type s bov is leaking . what u really need to do is take a boost reading at the turbo outlet and the intake to compare the difference

methanol absorbs water very fast thats why its important to store it in a sealed contianer. pour some out of the tank onto the ground and throw a match on it see if it lights right up.


be aware methanol burns clear ( u wont see flames) so dont burn urself