ur last downpipe was also only 2.5 inch so it took alot less volume to keep the pipe filled

and yes better safe then sorry, the longer downpipe will also keep the noice level down a lil as 3inch is going to be louder then the 2.5

 

Pray for me that my car starts up right.

Im starting this bad boy up come sunday. Not planing of taking it off the jacks as the alky and controler isnt hooked up yet, let alone the coolent lines to the turbo. Just wana do a start up on it and check the engine over to make sure its all good.

Getting my 3.73 10 bolt rear with A newer alburn LSD, moser axels, and c-clip elims, on saturday too. Gonna be a good weekend.

 

did u put moly lube on the cam and lifters?
graba bottle of zzdp to or just fire the engine with rottela -t in it

 

just assembly on all the parts. zzdp i need to get still along with the oil/filter.

 

it should be alright as long as u got the lifters back were they were originally, but ewhen u first get it to fire dont let it idle, get it upto 2000 rpm sand go up and down to like 2,500 for the first minute or so

 

Yes the lifters are back in the right spot. I marked them and baged them when I took them out. Basically when I start it rev it like when I broke the cam in just not as long?

Im still going to prime the oil pump too just because.

 

yeha but u only have to do it real fast to be sure the cam gets oiled well

 

Will do. Cant wait to hear the damm thing run. Ill video it.

 

hey fast check out race render 2

it alows u to show datalogs on ur videos
i took one of urs and did it real fast to show ya, ill be doing this with all my vids from now on
if u cant figure out the program just post the datalog that gpoes with the video and i can do them for ya

 

Dave that is freaking sweet man. You gotta hook me up on how to use and get that thing... Just basic software download on the net?? Ill have to mess with it asap when I get done with the car tommorow.

I got the new rear end and a nice new trans cooler with the deal. Really nice guy I got the stuff from.

I got the new starter on, all the exhaust is bolted up and sealed up, oil lines on. 50w with zzdp in with it. Primed up oil for a good bit. Timing set to 0btdc on the right stroke.

Tommorow is the day. Just have to hook all sensors up, put the trans back on for now and such. Then just make sure its all good and hope she runs right.

I will admit im happy as hell right now to be able to hear it run again.

 

yeah its free software it took me a lil while to figure out how to configure the datalog input portion but its pretty simple once u get the hang of it.

yeah thats the free version u can download off the site just google race render 2 and u will find it


or when u post up videos just post up the datalog that goes with the video and i can make them for ya
the software also alows multi views at the same time so if u have video of u at the track with one camera in the car, and one in the stands i can put them together with the data info too

btw if u post datalogs with videos dont cut the datalogs short just upload the whole log and i can use the software to trim the datalog to the right size

 

Break in went well. After a good 5 min of 1500-2500 rpms, let her idle and set the timing and here you see if after a good 10 miutet cool down. Still alot of little stuff to get down pat but it was nice to hear it run, and run good. FYI idle is set a litte high...lol but the afrs were dot on 14.7-15.0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7MA0j...ature=youtu.be

Check the rear end out.







Why wants to buy these disc backing plates??







Went from this to running in about 5 hrs.

 

must have driving video lol and dont forget to datalog it
boost is going to hit like a ton of bricks, and get rid of that crappy bov and install ur rfl

sounds good can hear the turbo winding up when u free rev it so it shouldnt be laggy at all

 

How hard is it to get those disk brake backing plates off?? Not that i plan to sell them but how much do those things go for anyway.

 

should just unbolt , looks like u have to slide the axles out to remove them though.

for some reason those housing ends look wierd to me
not sure what the retrofit backing plates are worth

 

here ya go the retrofit kit is 85 bucks + shipping new
http://www.flynbye.com/catalog/i30.html

so if u have all the pieces sell them for 65bucks shipped

 

Dave in you honest opinion would it be safe if I drove my car about a hr to my new house without those water lines on the turbo? Consider that I would resist myself from beating on it and trying my hardest not to boost it. I just want to get it to my new house so that its im my garage where I live. I hate driving a hr just to work on it. Be honest with your knowledge as Id rather drive to work on it then to drive it here and trash the turbo. I just dont have the time right now to put the water lines on it as its starting to get quite cold outside, and the holidays are near.

 

it will be fine just dont beat on it

 

Ok I got to tune it slightly for idle and part throttle today(not that its good but its driveable"its always rich") So then I just wanted to step into the boost one or 2 times at it doesnt have nearly as much lag as before at ALL. So heres a video with the data on it.

1. I took 2 degrees of timing out of all the boosted cells from my prior tunes

2. For some reason im haveing a large boost spike and the boost controler is NOT hooked up. Running that 8psi wastegate(or at least I though it was) I can definitly hear the wastegate open though! Clear as day.

3. I jacked the attact and recovery rates arround a good amount. Attack is UP recovery is DOWN.

4. The only KR I saw was when I was doing a burn out. (I will assume it was real)

5. How long does it take for that alky to actaully work and cool the air? I have it set as close to 6psi as I can. At one point I had it lower but then under part throttle and 3-4psi it would be too rich IMO and too soon that it would delay the turbo spool up.

I will be adding the water ports this weekend for the car. I will admit that it spools very fast IMO compared to the older piping and turbo set up. I am literly scared to floor it as it needs a hellof alot of tuning and I need to get the boost under control before I tune it.


My idea of what part throttle is and what I actually did isnt the same..lol

 

congrats man its going to be beastly
do u still have the shim in the wastegate spring? also make sure u have the correct spring installed.
if u do have the small spring in and no shim wastegate placement may be an issue . ull have to see when u boost it for more then a split seccond though.

also the gt3582 has the newer style turbine wheel which is waymore efficiant then the old school stage 3 turbine thats why u have no lag

the alky will work instantly but u were in the throttle long enough for it to show up in the iats , what nozzle size are u running

 

Thanks man!

I cant remember the nozzle size off the top of my head. Ill have to backtrack and look it up.

The shim... i dont think is in there anymore(99% sure). I took it out when I put the 1 bar spring in there last summer. I never put it(the shim) back in there again. But yea the little WG spring is in there.

It does kick in hard and fast though I will say that. Exspecially with all the timing I took out. Im in the process of going though my excel stuff and useing some formulas to get some better tuing results. Ill probly drive it again on saturday. I hope that little bit without the water cooling doesnt wound it(what I did today).

 

chances are at such low boost level u wont be able to use the alky, iirc u bought a med and large nozzle , if so at 7-8 psi the med nozzle wil be to large for part throttle boost as u found out. i shouldnt say its to large the turbo just spools to fast


u wont hurt the turbo without the watter lines since its a journal bearing turbo, now if it was a ball bearing turbo the water has to be hooked up to cool the ball bearings or they fry.

i told u to hook them up just for piece of mind since it is an ebay turbo, but i have taken plenty of water cooled garretts ( journal bearing) and run them without the lines connected and never hurt any of them

due to the more efficiant turbo design u may never get rid of that boost spike since it spools so fast/

looks like its spooling faster then the wastegate can open to control it. so if its spiking to 11 psi something around 13 psi should elimiate the spike

 

Well that may be the case. The nozzle was a 300 or 380cc nozzle IIRC. I want to say 99.9% sure it was the 300cc nozzle though. The paperwork for the things back in the car which isnt at my house till sunday..lol

Well I think that I need to keep on plugging on getting the AFR's more stable since I never really had to worrie about that before as now its jumping boost faster then I ever saw before. Then I could see how high it boost. Today it got to 9-10-11 psi spike up arround 5k rpms=got scared and let off.



Got the chip burnt that I adjusted. A few things I really noticed. Is that under 100kpa it was really rich for the most part. I can easily say I was taking 85-95% of fuel out of those cells in general. And then over 100Kpa the car was lean. I dont want to see anything less then 11.5afr at this point for any boost higher then 130Kpa. Richer and safe this time. I bet in total I changed 75 individual fueling cells and thats with just about 6k rows of datalog(excel).

 

u and ur editing posts an hour or more later lmao can never tell u wrote something new but ive learned to always check ur last post cause u always edit it


something isnt right if u have to take out that much fuel, since ur runing the same displacement and heads/cam/intake. id keep an eye on the plugs incase wideband sensor is giving false readings

how much did u back the timing off? this will also affect ur afr readings

 

2 degrees of timing was taken out of all the boost cells and 1 degree of timing on all other cells except the idle ones. IIRC it was always rich though even when it was hot(i.e 14.0 average when now its more like 13.5 average for daily driving cells.)

Would the valve deshrouding cause any effects or the chamber polishing?. Seems to want less fuel under a lesser load and way more under more of a load(boost) How about the lesser amounts of piping that I now have specifically on the intake side. The downpipe is now 36 inches total with that one 90* bend in it. 28 inches from the end is the O2 sensor. I will look at the plugs next time shes fired up to make sure its reading right.

Also lets keep in mind that This file I started with was designed for 80-90* ambient tempetures.

Also dave if you do look at that video I now see that the intake temp did start to go lower just as I almost let off. I guess it just took a split second for the IAT to respond/and or it was just starting to kick in.

 

u could be getting much more mixture into the cyl with the vlave deshrouding.

as far as the air temps it would add fuel under colder air temps but it shouldnt be that much to make it super rich

yeah u can se eit on the second hit, u just werent in boost long enough for it to really start showing the colder temps, temps did drop once u got out of boost though

 

opps forgot i knew u would be adding a bunch of fuel in the boosted areas as that new turbo is going to move a ton more air

 

Ok dave. Well. Ill drive it again on saturday with the newer tune I have and then tune it some more. Then we'll see how bad the boost spike really is. In your post up a few ago you said setting it at 13psi might stop the spike, but to be honest this car yanks me more at 7-8psi then the other one did at 15psi, so im scared to push it much more then 10psi or so if I can help it.

 

haha thats cause the new turbo proly moves about 50% more air at a given boost level then the old one

u think it pulls now wait till the 3:73 rear is in and u actually launch that thing at the track

try reinstalling the shim before u hook up the boost controller should sit u right around 10/11 psi

 

Your "rich all the time" condition could be partially caused by you new, better exhaust/hotside. If you eliminated some leaks pre-O2 you will seethe AFR drop - I have one flange on my hotside that keeps blowing the gasket and when it does I see my AFRS creep up 1.5 to 2.0, I reseal it, and it drops back down.

What size is your reference line form the turbo outlet to the WG? the shorter it is, and the larger diameter (including fitting diameters) the faster the WG will be able to respond - up to a point. I guess your kinda limited by the controller barb size once you put that back in though.

I spent a bunch of time dealing with a boost spike about 2-4 psi over my desired boost, and set the attack setting as close to zero as tuner-pro would let me, it helped a bunch now I only go 0.5psi over target boost

 

@sailtexas. The boost vac line is pretty short right off the turbo reference port(about 2 ft in total length. I do have a t-ed to the WG and the alky boost contact. I thought I should keep the lines small but never thought of making them a little bigger if that will help. So I can definitly put a larger diameter hose on there and see if that helps.

Im sure I did eliminate some exhaust leaks as when I tore the engine down I found that some of the header primarys were cracked at the weld. The welds were definitly not hot enough to get good penitration initially. I fixed that so that may be a cause also in reference to the afr's

To be honest if I get that gate to stop and not spike too bad(1psi or less would be nice) and have 8-10psi Ill be happy with that and just leave the boost contoler out of the scope for now.

@dave. Ill try the shim and see if that helps also, but I would think that it would then cause the gate to be even more touchy for overboosting since with the shim in there im cutting down the throttling range that the spring can move?

I dont doubt it one bit that the new turbo is moving that much more air. I think the surprising thing is even with the larger a/r on the hot side im still spooling up faster then Ive ever seen before on the car. Amazing and I cant wait to play with it some more this weekend.

 

im fricken jealous lol

well now i know what to expect from mine once i get it on there. keep the videos comin!

 

shimming the spring will bring the boost level up slightly , so when the boost spikes to 10/11 psi it will hold steady there.

iirc the last time u had the boost spike the shim helped it

 

Dave take a look at the log and let me know what you think of it. I think that the nozzle for the alky may be too small along with the fact that I still can not contol the boost. It just builds more as I go more WOT. Also on that log I did a burn out at about 110mph since the road was re-stoned a month or so ago(hense the KR you see in the log) so i must of hit a patch of loose stone. Also its way too rich i know that but better then lean for now.

 

There are two things to do for testing/checking the waste gate. First is to disconnect the rod so that it freely swings open. Then do some WOT stuff to see how high the boost will go. This shows the absolute minimum boost that can be had.

If the boost is creeping up above what you are looking for, then the WG port needs to be larger.

Then connect the boost reference hose directly to the WG (w/the rod connected). This will show what the minimum level of boost is with this particular WG actuator & port. The boost will go as high as possible and no further.

With a controller connected you won't be able to get a lower level of boost then what is seen here.

RBob.

 

Thanks RBob. Heres another log at WOT and it looks good although I dont like the boost hight. IIRC on my old set up this same spring could only manage 7-8psi tops. Now im holding 12psi???

I think the log looks good minus my burnout shifting into 2nd gear. AFR's really look good and so does the effects of the alky.

Please check my excel log and tell me if anything sticks out that im overlooking. I know my trans suxs but I mean in general.

 

looks ok so far, told u the boost would have to be around 11/12 psi to get rid of the spike.
hehe i know these turbos and engines so well i dont have to test anything to know what it will do.

be aware fast ur going to be turbing around 6,800 rpms with the new gears i see 6,100 in the log now with the 3:23's

u did shim the oil pump right whats ur oil presure looking like now at idle and high rpm

 

he isnt using an internal gate , he has a 38mm external witht hat unbolted hed be lucky to see 3 psi at redline. part of the spike issue is he has the wastegate tube 90* off the header. with that poor placement its not flowing like it should

i use the same gate on my iroc and it controls boost down to 4.5 psi with the same size turbine

 

Dave I didn't shim the gate, just got brave enough to just floor it.

The oil pressure looks about 50 psi and then about 80 at wot. So basically a obout ten psi more then before on average.

I was shifting the trans manually so that's why it was shifting higher.

 

thats ur low boost threashold with the wastegate were it is,is what i was getting at.

weres the driving video ?

also with 80 psi at wot keep an eye for oil in the downpipe if u start to get oil seeping u will need to change from -4 feedline to a -3 line

the whole combo is going to want more rpm with this new setup , not to mention say u were trapping at 5,200 rpms last year the addition of 3:73's is going to add 500 rpms to that at the same speed.

also if u dont manually shift the trans is going to shift higher anyways

 

Threshold boost on the wg?? Can you explain that more? I thought it went off the wg spring.

I'll keep a eye on the down piping.

No video. I had my gf staring at the kr on the laptop for me..lol

I'm shifting manually just to try and keep the line pressure up as much as I can. I so think its gonna be a mean car outta the hole now considering I can't floor it all the way till about 30 mph or it just spins away. Fells much better then the other set up for response.

I'm dealing with a idle problem though. It idles Spartatic here and there mainly once it's warmed up and in gear. I noticed the cts sensor is going all over and constantly throwing me a code. Can that cause some rough idle problems????? I need to fix it before I drive it to Toledo tomorrow and I belize it's the connector not thee sensor which I do have another of but it's at the other house....lmao

 

Let me add to.. Car runs absolutely great whe part throttle and wide open throttle. It also idles fine when you first start it or reset the ECM, then within minuets it surges and wants to damn near stall..lol

 

it does but the postioning of ur wastegate is horrible, so even with it fully open it isnt flowing what it should to bleed off pre turbine flow

dont worry about it though leave it be at 12 psi

if the cts is all over the place it will run crappy get the sensor replaced or check the connector to be sure its not that

 

Got it on the WG, I should look at the pic's before posting. It does hold a decent steady 12 psi, which is good.

As for the CTS, I usually replace both the sensor and connector together. If that doesn't fix it then the ECM is bad, I've seen that too.

RBob.

 

A question about the wastegate. Ive noticed that ever so slightly the max boost has been going down over time. Today on a few pulls 11.8psi through the whole pull. Last night was 12.22psi the whole pull and earlier yesterday was closer to 12.8psi the whole pull.

Now im not upset about that im just curious of why its doing that as the gate is still opening up basically as soon as I floor it as the boost is made that fast.

I got it to my new house today. Had to drive a solid hour and had absolutly no issues with the car else then the fact that I forgot I disabled the TCC lock up so as you can imagin.... 2700rpms when crusing at 70mph and its way too loud for normal driving... lmao.

Here laugh at this videos.
On the idle issue I just kept at it and fixed the CTS connection as it was just loose and now reads correct. But some times, and this has been happening for awhile, when i connect the laptop it will read the wrong info. Such as barometer wrong(half of what it should be) or map way off. Ive even had it when i would free rev it where the boost would go up and I know there was no boost. Also it throws codes like no reference, low cts, low manifold temp and stuff like that. I can usually just turn the car on and then back on while its still connected and it will read the right info. But sometimes now I have to reset the Ecm to get it to read right... any ideas? I will say when its connected and giving me the right info the car runs like a charm though.

 

it could be possible that u have some carbon build up in the wastegate that was stopping it from opening fully but i wouldnt worry about that right now


the ecm issue would worry me alot more it could be ur adal cable or loose conections on the ecm side or as rbob said the ecm could be going bad

were u sure to hook up all the grounds when u reinstalled the engine?missing grounds cans cause alot of havoc . if in doubt run 2 ground wires with some 8 guage wire

one from the batter to the fender and one from the fender or firewall to the cyl head

 

I did hook up all the grounds. You you know which ones on the heads are for the ecm?? Theres 3 IIRC on the pass head and 2 on the drivers head. I have good continuity though as I know I ohmed out the bat ground to many areas on the car such as the fender and such. I will look at them again. Stuff worries me as I dont like it when the computer starts to act weird.

Its worse now since I redid the engine but I will say it was having these same issues last racing season just not as frequent.

 

Ok well I went out after work and the car connected perfect and had no data issues?? Weird. I also ohmed alot of the ground stuff out starting with the batt then from there.

I will still be adding a ground just in case but if thats not solved i may just have to pick up a cheep 7730 ecm and see if that helps. As its more innoying then anything.

Yes I know its really rich idleing... high 12's but it evens out as it gets warm and idles at 13.5-14. Anyone that knows me, knows that just what that car will idle at without surging.

Heres a clip. Does sound nice though. It was hard not to drive.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IOiIW...ature=youtu.be

I do have a turbo blanket on the way and will be putting that on to keep that heat away from the hood but the exhaust must be quieted down. Does anyone have any good ideas on how to make it quieter. I wounder if there is some sort of a baffle they sell that I can just bolt on there for the drive. I have about 4 inches diameter and 2 feet to work with at the very most. It has to be something I can take off at the track. IIRC there are header savers?? Or a baffle that you basically can bolt on to a header flange? Thanks for any ideas.

 

the only way ur going to quiet it down is to make the downpipe longer
u could try a bullet muffler but its not really going to do anythign with such a short downpipe


how long before u get a turbo on that riding mower??? lmao

 

LOL if I had a extra turbo Id already have it on that mower...lmao.