Ok here we are.

54.13mm or 2.13" Inducer
69.13mm or 2.721" Major

If its to small I always could just get another one..lol At least its bigger then I initally thought.

 

wow u got a to4b version its amazing u went as fast as u did with it

get the gt3582

my original turbo was 50mm/76mm
no wonder why ur air temps were so high

thats hwy i kinda hate ebay sellers there stuff isnt always consitant

 

Yea I take it that turbo wasent the best for what I was trying to do...lmao. Damm ebay ppl. Oh well

Ill look to just get what blazer got.
His measured out right correct?

 

not not at all u were really pushing that turbo yeah now that i know ur turbo is smaller then what we thought deff go witht he turbo blazer got i told him to measure it not sure of he did yet

 

Ok will do dave. Ill wait up and see if Joes turbo checks out ok before I make the hit on that turbo.

Im taking my engine out of the car next sunday for sure! I got all week to think of what to do with it but at least I have a good amount of options.

I need to get a quote somewhere of how much to dip that block and bore it. Im not a total cheep skate but you gotta know im just trying to figure out what is the best way for someone like me to get the car right and not have to save up for 3 years to do it, weather it be a different engine completly or work on mine. If were talking way more then 1$k in just rebuilding the one I have im gonna be very tight to make something like that happen.

Thanks for dealing with me always changing my mind and entertaining so many idea..lol. I did order the springs and the retainers locks last night though for the heads so at least thats on its way.

 

this is pretty much the turbo u were using

this is the turbo i thought u were using

here is basically the gt3582

and the ebay 66

 

just got home from work, ill get you a crude measurment since i dont have the correct tools to measure lol. gimme a couple of hours to eat and visit with my son

 

Wow looking at those maps my turbo was far into its un efficient area!!!

No rush joe

 

it was bording on the 65/60% line assuming 350 crank hp, imgoing to assume more around 380ish crank due to the times and mph it has run and the slipping converter

 

Yea I was looking at about the same. 33 or so lb/min @15psi was not in the area I wanted.

 

alright dudes i got a crude measurement. roughly 2 9/16", maybe a little heavy but it works out to roughly 65mm minor

 

ok thats good , u know its atleast deffinatly 61mm it shoudl measure 61/82mm
im wondering if that gt3582 isnt infact a 66mm like fast was originally looking at, if it is atleast it has the proper turbine wheel


fast i wouldnt hesitate to order the same turbo blazer got just get the link form him so u biuy it from the same seller

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271052454290...84.m1423.l2661


*also* i measured again, its a little shy of 2.5" so its the 62mm.

 

that turbo is going to make some serious power
its actually better flowing and more efficiant then the old school 60-1 turbo i have .
60-1 is 61/82 mm also and it makes more power at 9 psi then the one fasteddi currently has at 15-18 psi

 

its very similar to the pt-54 that was on my buick, it screamed.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI...m=280964157446

This right?? I just bought this so it better be....LOL

 

yep thats the one i have, a buick guy told me he has the PTE-6262 and says its an awesome street turbo. this one seems to be almost identical to the precision turbo

 

Awsome, well its on its way, at least ill have a better suited turbo this go arround.

Does precision show comp maps? I printed off the GT3582R .70 AR garret map to get a idea where the sweet spot and best effiency is on that turbo. Looks to be dead on where we want it. The 33-43lbs/min and arround the 12-16psi area. Much better sweet spot then on my other turbo thats for sure.

Mabey I should toss the other turbo on my lawnmower and make it like this... Lmao!
I think he toasted the rings..lol.. oh crap is that video funny!

 

expect the gt35 to move around 35lbs min at 9 psi , at 15+ psi u should be moving around 42-46lbs min

 

just did some calculations and that turbo should maintian 76% eff from 7psi all the way upto around 23 psi

my best esitmates are around
350 ish hp at 9 psi
440 ish hp @ 17 psi
480 ish hp @ 21psi +

 

Alright. Thats some nice numbers.
With a .70 ex a/r will it be a lot more laggy?

 

that turbo has an .84 ar ex housing so it will be a lil laggy, once u get ur transmisison/converter issues sorted u wont have any problems spooling that turbo

i have the same specs on my 60-1

.84 ex housing and it spools up fast hell u can see how fast by watching my dyno video

if u do happen to go with the th350 and get a transbrake i see ur car going well into the low 11's high 10's


the key to a fast turbo car is the launch

if ur car makes 400 hp and is lazy on the launch its going to run 12's get that sucker to actually launch and come out of the hole with boost or damn near full boost and it will run a second faster without upping the power

 

Update, finally get some time to play with the car. All that needs to be done is basically remove the trans, hood, and the block itself. Should have it out tommorow afternoon when a friend stops by with a cherrypicker. Ill edit and add a few pics later tonight so you can see the poor ole thing.

Turbos not here yet but says on monday, not that I can do much with it but it will be nice to have it.

A good friend races alky injected dragsters. I talked to him last night after work and arc flash training. He has guided me a little at the track with my car. I asked him if he could help with my winter issue. He said he wanted to measure the cylinders again since he actually has much better tools and probly is much better then me. If it does come down to it, i may just have him do some of the engine.block work if it comes to that as I just want it done right.

He also has a TH350 trans with a full reverse manual body, shift kit, but thinks it IS in fact a 9inch so Hopefully I know that soon also. IIRC though he said it was rebuild with oem crap a few years back but hasent seen much track time. Well see what happends there as I love the 700r4 but dammit I want a fast out of the hole car and I need a good stall converter to go with it, so that TH350 is a great option if I can still fine a decent one.

 

I forgot how much room is there!!! God man...





Just need to remove the trans, hood, and the ground bolt on the front of the block and its ready to just taken out so I can make some sence of that mess.





I broke this off the damn..starter sileniod, I knew I would break something.




Sleep well Camaro, you got a big day tommorow...Lmao

 

with just the shortblock comming out u prolly wont have to pull the hood off

 

btw i broke my soiliniod as well when i put my new motor in

i took a stainless machine screw and welded it to the broken stud, has worked fine ever since,u could try to do the same but it will prolly be really damn hard to do with a mig welder, i tig welded mine

 

even with stock crap the th350 is still stronger then the 700, and that trans will cost nexto nothing to put a transbrake on so hope its the right one fast.

200$ converter for that thing the 60$ adapter and ur car will be hauling some serious *** next year

btw whats the story on that "3.4"

 

The one on fullthrottle.V6??

He wants 1500 bucks for it.

I'd rather dump that in mine if need be.
I'm just taking the hood off because it's just easier IMO when I do put the engine back in.

I'll add pics and such tommowor when she's out. I can try to weld it but it doesn't look good on that solenoid as in no expert welder..lol

 

its not a bad price for that longblock depending on how its setup and if it has 0 miles on it

but u dont need the forged pistons anyways and that was really the only thing special about that longblock

once u get the bores measured and all the internals inspected it will be easy to see what ur best route will be

 

Hes got a few miles on that engine, and was spraying n20 on it. Cant tell me if it had moly rings but I would assume he did with the forged pistons. I thought 1500 as a tad high but like I said he does have some miles on that shortblock. 10k IIRC from his message. I pm.ed that guy about the 272 cam also, no word back yet. If he wants more then the $120 deltacams would want then Ill just stick with getting one of those cams later this fall.

 

yeah pass on that engine i thought it was a 0 mile fresh build.

i belive oil pans's for sale thread said 90 bucks shipped

 

Here she is, easy as crap to get that engine out, I was surprised.



Im awaiting a friend to come over, I plan to put the engine on the stand then start labeling things perfectly..IE the lifters exc. Then pull the pan and hopefully pull a piston out tonight, mainly that #6 one.

I was doing really good at keeping everything clean, till I was letting the trans down on my tran jack and literly had it dump out the pan that i had the trans fluid in..opps so to say the least i made a mess.

 

Found the problem fast once i got the piston out. Cracked the ring. The middle one which ever that one is, remember im no expert at any of this at all.




Scoring on the piston on this side, I do not see it at all in the cyl. So like I said I will get my buddy to re-measure the cylinders and see how bad it is then make a decision then.

The other side of the piston.


Looks almost like the piston is literly cracked between the rings.

 

The scuffing on the thrust side of the piston is normal. And yes, that piston is done well cracked. That is most likely what cracked the ring.

Forged pistons are the only way to go in hi-perf engines.

Middle ring is referred to as the 2nd ring, top ring is the 1st ring.

RBob.

 

Thanks Rbob

Heres some more pictures as im done for the day, got alot done on my day off.

What most of the rod bearings look like




Every last piston has the same scuffs on the thrust side.


Crank itself looks ok on the rod side.


Look at the dead center here then just look a tad above it and you can see the crack in that #6 piston.. it was one pass away from failor.


Complete mess




Crank view. I did pop one cap and see what the crank bearings look like, the first was a little rough..ill take pics tommorow but its not horrible but i can just see the one score arround it, not too deep but is there. On the bearnings that is.

 

the rings are what made the piston crack, top ring gap was to tight which cracked the ringland between 1-2 which in turn cracked the ring

carefully remove the top ring from on of the pistons and slip it into the top of the bore evenly down about 1/2 inch in the bore then measure the gap between the ring ends

i build my engines with .007-.009 of ring gap per inch of bore

 

rods and mains look perfect,

this is a simple fix
get .030 over pistons and a good set of moly rings , have the block cleaned and bored/hones for the new pistons, have machine shop install new pistons onto rods

do not have the crank turned , if the crank mains look as nice as the rod bearings just install high quality std sized bearings and reasemble it with an extra 5-10 ftlbs on the main caps and u will be ready to go

also have ur buddie with the valve machine or the machine shop freshen the heads and do a valve job


dont even bother with measureing the bores u need to buuy pistons either way so just go with the over bore this way u know the bore is round to begin with and that the piston to wall clearance is dead on

 

1/2" into the bore?? Im getting about .015??

 

ur motor was in such good shape that it cause the piston to crack.

.015 is way to tight for a forced induction engine.

this is the biggest problem ppl will run into with turbocharging a stock engine is that if the motor isnt worn the top ring gap will be way to tight. which is exactly what happened in ur case.

i should have told u to check the top ring gaps when u had the heads off the first time but it completly slipped my mind sinc eu said the motor had 100k miles on it i figured they would be worn enough

 

LOL it was in too good of shape.. Whats the ring gap suppose to be on a forced induction engine such as mine. I redid the measurements again and to say im safe its .015-.017 tops 1/2 inch down that bore on #6

What did the ring hit for it to break like that??? Im new on all of this...

 

the ring gets butted together against the ends and puts presure on the ring lands and eventually causes failure.

u will be damn near double that figure on the top ring gap for a boosted engine.

let me look threw all my old notes and ill get u the specs i used on my 3.1 engine

loose bearing clearances and top ring gap are key to making it live at big power/boost numbers

edit

i think i have the specs posted in my old thread u dug up today take a look in there, and ill look threw my old notes when i get back from running out for a pack of cigs

 

Cool man, thanks dave.

I see some info on that thread about the main and crank bearings being over stock but i either missed it or its not there about the ring gaps.

 

top ring gaps between .027 - .032 ( my 3.1 is at .030 )
thow and extra .001-.003 clearance on the mains and rods
shim the oil pump relief with 1-2 an washers

and u will be good to go

mic the rod journals and see what u come up with if they arent worn at all a polish job my the machine shop will take .002 - .003 off them

if they are already undersized from wear then dont do anything but install new bearings, judging from ur pics of the rod bearings id say the rod pins are dead on for factory sizing

 

Top rings gap..OK i got that.

What about the second ring?? Larger by .005 or so???

what are an washers? I feel stupid now...lol How thick are they?

Ill go mic a rod journal and see what it says, be back in a few.

 

.005-.007 larger over stock spec on the second ring

its just a fancy washer , u can use any washers that fit under the spring

 

shimming the spring in the oil pump will prevent more oil pressure from being bypassed, and higher oil pressure

 

correct, u dont need to shim it a whole lot either, 3 washers under mins gave me 65psi at idle and 105-115 psi at redline, which is just a tad excessive

i was shooting for around 50-55 idle at 90-95 at redline but it deff helps the engine live at high rpm

 

my book says 50.757-50.784 mm (1.9983"-1.9993") for the rod journal.

Im reading 50.668 mm on mine. (1.9948") So thats 0.035-0.045 off of the stock specs. Is that bad?


Thanks on the oil pump. I knew it had to be shimmed just wasent sure of how much.

 

it cant be that loose u would be showing wear on the bearings

 

let me check again..lol i hate this mic

There is some wear on the bearings though... see






Ok here it is again.. 1.9955 is what it is, 50.69mm thats still .0028 off I measured the same one 5 times!! lmao