Note that when purchasing Comp Cams valve train parts you need the -12's. That is 12 of each part, for a 6-cylinder. The -16's are for 8 cylinder engines.

RBob.

 

Opps thanks for catchong that rbob

 

fast here ya go
springs
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-981-12/
retianers
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-742-12/
locks
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-648-12/

 

when i was assembling my 3.4 i found that it was cheaper just to buy the set of 16, i used k motion k-700 springs with my cam, iirc the set was like 45 bucks back in 2007.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/KMO-K-700/

iirc 115# on the seat and 340# open. with 513 lift its far away from coil bind too.

 

i ave k-motions on my 3.1 but i dont recall the part number , they were good for dam near .600 lift and had over 400#'s at max lift on my cam way overkill for an unmodified hyd lifter though


those k-700 will be better then the comp springs fast so buy those and the comp locks and retianers, i would shim them if possible to 125/130#'s on the seat for high rpm use

u need to check installed hieght though to be sure u can shim them depending on how much lift ur cam has, as u shim them the maximum amount of lift before coil bind gets smaller and smaller

 

ive wound up my 3.4 to 7K with those set at stock installed height with no float issues, not sure where you want to spin it to w/boost.

im only planning to push mine to 6500ish lol

 

Alright thanks for the links. Im ordering the valvetrain stuff when i get home. I might as well get a few parts here and there while I can. The turbo will probly be ordered also. The T66 67mm one. Hope that one will work well for the drag strip.

 

This http://www.ebay.com/itm/GODSPEED-GSP...0a6f49&vxp=mtr

Was the correct turbo that would be somewhat sized right? I want to make sure that the exhaust side will fit on this one if I need to swap them. Is there anything(seals exc) that I would need to do so. If not i just going to go ahead and pull the trigger on that turbo as well as the vavle train stuff.

Any ideas on what is the difference between some ell cheepo 5 dollar ex valves compared to some 20 dollar ones?

Update definitly the rings. Put the head back on with new gaskets new bolts and tq/ed to spec. This was with the head from the pass side that I know will produce 145psi. I made 90 psi so I can clearly say what I knew a few weeks ago... I toasted a ring. Sad sad Day, but it something I already knew I guess.

 

Why do I find myself looking at stuff like this???
http://dayton.craigslist.org/pts/3230524950.html

 

that is the turbo fast, ur hotside will not fit on it. i.e u cant take the housing off ur old turbo and put it on that one the turbine wheel on the 67 is smaller then the 57.

what u have to do is unbolt the compressor housing from the 57 take the nut off the compressor wheel and turn the compressor wheel to remove it from the shaft, after that remove the 4 blts from the comprressor back plate and remove it , then u bolt the 67 backing blate onto the 57 mm turbo, then the compressor wheel , compressor wheel nut, then bolt the housing back on .

basically u are going to upgrade the wheel and housing on the 57 ,and u can put the wheel and housing from the 57 onto the 67


got a link to the different ex valves u are looking at?

blazer it depends on the cam
and the cam lobes for how much seat and openpresures u want

 

Remind me again why it would be bad to just use that turbo as a whole? The T66 one?

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=360944_0_0_ stainless??


http://www.ebay.com/itm/89-96-Chevy-...d65311&vxp=mtr
Whole kit?

Or this??
http://www.ebay.com/itm/83-89-Chevy-...61d4ff&vxp=mtr

Is it 1.42" head correct?


Also something of this matter, if the inside bore is still ok and can reuse the block correct?? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sealed-Power...d3869e&vxp=mtr

Im just making a list to see how much OT I need to work..LMAO

 

the turbine on the t67 according to the add is small , if the turbine sizing in the add is correct the 67 willspool up fast but may very well choke the engine in the higher rpms

u can try it as id and if it dosent chock then use it as is

http://www.ebay.com/itm/89-96-Chevy-...d65311&vxp=mtr i would buy that but its listing those valves to also fit the aluminum headed fwd engines which use different size valves and valve stems iirc 1.72/1.42 sounds correct


those rings are prolly the best rings u can buy, except u cant buy rings till u know if u can reuse the stock pistons or not, some of the replacement pistons use a thicker ring then the factory ones i.e fwd engine spec rings, so it would be a waste to get them now to find out u need to bore the block and get pistons that take a different ring set

 

imgoing to say ur going to need an overbore

http://www.ebay.com/itm/88-94-Chevy-...183d4d&vxp=mtr

aparently enginetech stuff is made by keithblack and is the same pistions i put in my 3.1

heres a full set with moly rings for 151 bucks
http://www.ebay.com/itm/88-94-Chevy-...183d4d&vxp=mtr

 

6 bucks cheaper these look identical to my kb pistions except these ar .007 shorter on the compression hight. they are made like this so when the heads are decked compression dont go up

i would use these with the thin head gaskets or zero deck the block and use the thick headgaskets

http://www.ebay.com/itm/88-94-Chevy-...8ad5b5&vxp=mtr

 

this is why u dont use a thick headgasket on a block that isnt zero decked.
look how far down in the hole the piston is at tdc

 

CORRECTION. Here is the numbers from the cylinders. Using a inside mic. I did the measurements 2 times for each recording and they were within.. 0.0x microns each time.

Cy 2 88.88mm and 88.84mm
Cy 4 89.03mm and 88.98mm
Cy 6 88.92mm and 88.87mm

I measured in a t pattern to see what the widths were both accross and un down. Basically a x patttern or whatever ya wana call it to see if its ovaled out bad or not. Im reading about 4-5 microns difference between one way and the other so that bore seems to be ok for being no ovaled??

My huge question is what is acceptable for a bore and whats acceptable for it not being perfectly circular. Also from what I read our 2.8/3.1L bore is 89mm, so im smaller on some??? What gives with that. Someone please explain.

Oh and dave I measured that turbo earlier. The comp wheel is 50mm and the turbine wheel is 54mm. Thats smaller then I though??? .63AR stamped on the exhaust though. So the a/r is what I thought it was.

 

what kinda of bore guage did you buy?

 

I already had a bore guage that I can use then when I got it set up in the cy and locked I measured it with a digi mic. Ill go do some measuring again as I take it from your reponce i may not be right??

 

Went and did all of it again. Forgot that every time I use that damm mic, i need to 0 it out. And did a much more precice way of leveling out the bore guage.

But here what I got on cy 6. I did the x,y,z measurement thing and did it on the top of the cyl, the mid and the bottom. Let me know if these make more sence... I read to measure it this way from a racing buddy so Im not sure if its the best way but I tried it.

Top= 89.33, 89.22, 89.32 with a average bore of 89.293 mm

Mid= 89.39, 88.19, 89.25 with a average bore of 89.276 mm

Bot= 89.31, 89.19, 89.24 with a average bore of 89.246 mm

Total average bore 89.2716 mm For cy #6

Deviation from top to bottom was 4.7 microns

On the top deviation 11 mics
On the mid deviation 20 mics
On the bot deviation 11 mics

This was all on cyl #6 the one in question. Please let me know what im looking at and this time I think I figured out how to measure it correct as you have to keep in mind I've never done this before.

 

the 3 measurements, which ones were front to back and which ones were side to side. also, bore seems a little too big, may want to check again. the taper looks out of spec too. youre going to have to have it punched out from the looks of it

 

What should I measure??

Just side to side and back to front on three levels of the cylinder??

 

yes, that will show you how far the cyls are out of round

 

Ok one hour later heres what I got. Man this is tedious work to ensure it is measured right. Heres pics and will explain it for me, I think its right this time..LOL







Top then mid then lower just as you see it on the pic. Id do the other cylinders but this is a long process as im gunshy if its spot on here.

 

that looks better, and you are roughly .00015" (or i call it one-and-a-half thou) out of round. taper looks ok. im trying to find the max bore size, i cant remember what it should be

im thinking have it punched 30 over, align honed, balanced within a few grams, and squared up. this way you can really crank on it next year

 

I have no idea what acceptable on these blocks and what the max bore size is. Do you thing is too far out of wack for a simple hone and new rings?

 

yeah, but im conservative.
im thinking have it punched 30 over, align honed, balanced within a few grams, and squared up. this way you can really crank on it next year

what did the piston look like?

 

IIRC I cant bore that block out to .030 over as its really a 2.8L block so it would be really really thin on the walls.

I didnt take the piston out I just put all the way at the bottom to measure the walls. I know thats not telling the tail of the whole cylinder probly, but I just wanted to get a guess if its to far outa wack. The thing that ticks me off is how pretty the cy. walls are though, crosshairs still on it from the factory.. damn shame.

 

pfft. my ARI 3.4 is a 2.8 block and its been punch 120 over lmao


pull a part, grab a couple of buddys and yank a couple of 3.4's. iirc they are only 120ish complete

 

I think that may be the plan, what should i do at the yard to check a engine on site? Anything no obvious?? I just need the shortblock as im just gonna use all my top end stuff.

 

Ill add that there is a distinct cabon ridge on my cylinders, I would guess that in time that may hurt the top ring???

I just need to yank that pan and pull that damn piston out because i still believe its stuck or chiped ring or something of that matter, as that blow by was such a ittermittem problem. Its driving me nuts!! One day it would blow mass oil by then the next... nothing.lmfao

 

dude the time you will spend stripping the engine down at the yard you could do at home and have spares or sell the xtras and recoupe some cash. you also might like the 3.4 intake better too, and its DIS if you wanted to run that as well. the best thing you can do is pull the pan and look for obvious things like broken piston or rods, etc. grab 2 motors and get 1 with a warranty so you can bring 1 back if needed

 

that ridge is where the bore used to be, you need a ridge reamer if you want to pull the piston out without the ring getting caught on it

 

I can get a warrenty for one at a junk yard?? What are the best yards back over by cleveland again??

 

yeah the closest one by you would be the westside PaP, its pretty much right off I480 on W130th, the other one is on the east side. but last time i was there i saw a few of the 3.4's

 

Im looking at some on the net in toldeo, they have a inventory list and look to have 2 but who knows whats left on the car, im going to search on here some more then make some calls tommorow after work and see if they have any engines.
12162 Chevrolet1995 Camaro Coupe 179043 mi.3.4 maroon G1FP22S3S21295716/18/2012
13943 Chevrolet 1994 CamaroCoupe 195782 mi.3.4 green 2G1FP22S2S21213958/31/2012

Actually i just called them and they still have both camaros, but couldnt tell me if the engines were in them... wtf..

 

I wounder if this is really that new and a crate engine? 200R4?

http://sandusky.craigslist.org/pts/3209153273.html

Why couldnt this be a 3.1 or 3.4L for 250 bucks already pulled..lol
http://columbus.craigslist.org/pts/3165597949.html

 

yeah PaP just catalogs the cars but they have so many they cant inventory each car. i doubt the engines are missing. very few people mess with the 3.4 lol

theres always car-part.com

 

go look at it and offer him 400-500, it doesnt seem like a bad deal

 

The crate engine one? Yea thats what I was thinking, exspecially if he has the paper work to prove its decent. Im going to try and call him.

 

Joe I just talked to the guy and seems he actually lives in the same town as me.. small world.

It was in a s10 truck to replace a 2.8L. Was pulled out last month of the truck to add a 350 SBC.

He said that he would part the trans from the engine but basically said the engine is what it is and the trans if a freebe. Has the oringinal recept for the engine, it was purchased 5 years ago for about $2200 he said from summit. I said I would want to pay arround 550 and he sounded really iffy on the phone but I want to see it in person and then cash money speaks words if that engine looks ok to me. Hopefully hes straped for cash!

Would that 200R fit my car anyway?? Im not sure if it would but anyways I told him that on wednesday or thursday I would call and we can go out and look at the engine thats about 30 min from where i live as its at his parents grage.

This is the supposid engine. 45k on the motor does sound nice.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12363230/

 

pick up the entire combo fast, that is a 3.4/700 combo
so u get a free spare trans

200r4 would need an adapter plate as u can se eit dont have one. most ppl mistake the v6 700 for a 2004r

ur 3.1 is out of spec and needs a bore

if u buy that 3.4 u will need to pull out the top rings and open up the ring gap(file the rings)


also which turbo measured 50mm?

 

why do I have to file the rings on that 3.4L?

If I can pick that baby up for under 600 I will get it, a chunk of change like that is alot but at least i will have a ok engine again.

Thats what my compressor wheel measured on my turbo. No where close to being 54 or even 57mm

 

heres my thoughts on the whole thing thes emotors were known for pistion rock issues so just slapping in a new engine is risking the same issue.
if u buy that 3.4 ur going to have to tear it down anyway so if u just rebuild the 3.1 u have now u would spend the same amount of money as that 3.4 except u know the 3.1 will be properly assembled


my vote is to punch the 3.1 30 over , install new pistions and good rings and good bearings

in order to do this buy the pistons first so u have them on hand when u take the block to the machine shop so they canmatch the over bore directly to the piston . this gives a much closer piston to bore clearance and stops piston rock and increases ring seal


while that stuff is at the machine shop they can cut the crank if needed and spin balance the crank rods new pistions ,which will be required for a performance build , if it was a stock replacement i owuldnt worry about it


get the heads refreshened and u have a good engine , when buying a used engine u really dont know what ur getting

 

turbo engines need a larger ring gap on the top ring, otherwise u risk breaking the ring lands on the piston


how did u measure the wheel cause i know mine comes out to 56.3mm

 

Theres 2 parts of the wheel right? The inside(larger) and the outside( smaller part of the wheel, I just measured it with the mic and it had extended things that come as attatchments. I measured it as the turbo was still in one piece. The hole for the intake itself is only 52mm

Ok on the ring gap. Thanks as that makes sence

 

Measure the diameter of the front side of the compressor wheel (referred to as the "inducer" side), located on the "cold" side of the turbo (the side where air is sucked into the unit). Record the measurement in millimeters.






Thats what i did dave

 

u wont get an accurate measurement like that u have to pull the cover and use a caliper across the blades , im wondering if u got a different version of the twins i have
1inch = 25.4mm the wheel shoudl measure about 2.250

if the compressor is really that small dont get that 67 get the gt3582 like blazer did

 

is it easy to pull off the cover?? I can go do that really quick. to make sure

Take the 6 bolts off the back of the housing and pop it off???

 

yeah on the back side of the compressor cover is 8 bolts iirc just remove them and the straps and the cover pops off

 

6 bolts on mine.. for some reason. Ill brb in 5 min and let ya know