After soaking the springs and all that stuff in some oil I assembled the heads finally. tossed some new unbrella seals on there also just becasue I still had so many new ones from last winter. I went to napa back last winter and ordered 12 of them and they gave be a box of 24...LOL Only paid for the 12 and didnt notice till I got home.

I would be honest to say that else then some roller rockers or stuff add on stuff such as that these heads themselfs are as good as there gonna get for being iron headed beast...lol and just a DIY job.

Ill update on sunday on how much of the engine I got together. I still need to tq the rod caps down on the crank. But else then that and the heads its just bolt on stuff.

 

Updates. I got the engine flly assembled this morning in about 4 hrs. I know im slow but its my day off..lol

I did add in the old 7psi wastegate spring on the WG as I never see 15psi being needed with that new turbo and my stock insides. I didnt get the exhaust wrap yet so theres no sence im me bolting that stuff up as I also need to weld the new flang on the header.

Pics.




The header flange/pipe needs shaved down 2 inches but this is what my idea would be for the charge piping as long as I can fit in the BOV, IAC, and alky nozzle. Obvously this isnt the piping im going to use but I was just trying to get ideas and hopefully they will clear the hood also.


Cars waiting patiently!!


Next weekend I may get the engine put back in the car or at least weld up the flanges and DP for the turbo as I already know what I want to do there.

 

lmao i give it 4-7 days before the 15 psi spring gets put back in once ur driving it
reuse ur old piping just put a piece of pipe in place were the intercoller was, this way when u do eventually get a new intercooler u can just bolt it in

 

dave how close can i have the BOV before the TB?? Alky must be after the BOV right??

 

correct if u put the bov after the alky nozzle u will blow alky into the engine bay when the bov opens. i edited my post above telling u to reuse the old piping the way u had it just substitute a pipe inplace of the intercooler

 

Ok dave. You know I dont DD the car so for now and the budget im on I hope that the alky will work enough for now till down the road when I can get a good large IC for the driving.

You know the funny thing about my reassembly is that for about the 4 time now I lashed in the pushrods/rockers and didnt put the damm intake gasket on first. I swear ill never learn.......lol

 

lol it happens, u will be fine without the intercooler for the time being once u go above 10 psi u will prolly need to install the larger nozzle though. all depends on what air temps are with the new turbo

 

Ok dave Ill keep a eye on that and see what happends.

A friend on facebook wrote this to me. What do you guys think? Worth the time and $$ on a rear like that or no?

Heres what he said about it....



Mark, you need to take this rearend w/ 3;73's and moser axles off of my hands....

Oh yeah it's a Posi, Auburn Diff, had it in the car for about 2yrs, probably 15,00mi on it maybe a little more, it's got the Ed Miller disc brake adaptor plates on it too. I've got a 9" Moser now and don't need it...

It need s apinion seal installed and a girdle for it. I sold the girdle, calipers and rotors off of it. It's taking up space $125 to you, just come and pick it up. I have a cover for the rear, but I highly recomend the girdle w/ adjustable stops for the main caps. Jegs has 'em for about 130-140...

 

u need to buy that rear , but only if ur drum brake backing plates will fit it , u dont want to give up the rear drums or u wont be able to hold the car on the line

 

btw u do not need a girdle cover it would be a waste of 130-140 bucks
buy the rear sell the disc brake adapter brackets off it and reinstall ur drum brakes on it and slap a stock cover on it,

pinion seal u can replace urself easily

 

How do I know if my drums will fit on the rear end??

 

ask him if it was originally a drum gear

by the way he says disc brake adapate rbrackets im pretty sure its a drum rear

 

Ill ask him. How hard and how much does it cost replace the pinion seal?

 

iirc the seal is 13 bucks

remove the pinion nut remove the yoke and the seal pops off
tap the new one into place and reinstall yoke /pinion nut

 

that seems easy!

Yea the rear was a drum system before. I plan to pick this rear up in the next week or 2 when I get the chance. Hope that alburn works well for a little while. I do like the ring of having moser axles and 3.73s in the rear.

 

the pinion nut sets the pinion bearing preload so u cant just crank it down,its hard to explain cause i can do it by feel. ill get u some step by step directions though, but dont worry its not hard

 

Ok.

This weekend im tight but the next i will probly just go pick the rear end up. Damm I need a truck becasue im getting tired of borrowing a 10mpg truck to get engines and rearends..lmao

 

lol man if u keep coming across these deals u will have everything u need for one bad *** ride shortly specially if end up with that whole th350 kit
lol soon u will have all the parts u need to handle a twin turbo sbc, btw when ur ready to play with the big engine let me know and ill sell u a set of twin turbo headers cheap lmao

 

the Th350 combo isnt looking good...lol

But this rear end is in the works forsure in the next week or 2. Thats a done deal.

Im not ready for those big engines yet. Im having to much fun with the little ones still and never hit those 12's yet so i have to get there first!

 

Ive been trying to think up of how to make the turbo sit this time. I wish I knew how deep that old turbo was because Ive been thing this, while looking at this picture(s).






Im thinking that if I just extent the turbo twards the front bumper about another 1-2 inches that it should still clear the front. Im thinking of then turning the compressor housing 90*-180* to the left of what is in this picture allowing me to run the piping either up and over or arround the turbo and still clear the belts and acceseries?? Ideas? It may heat up that plasitic shroud for the fan too much though without a blanket.

The problem is those headers are almost imposible to bolt on to the heads when the heads are on the engine and IN the car. I wanted to weld up that one flange this weekend and then wrap the headers with wrap, then toss it on and drop the engine back in.

Another idea is to literly run a little more pipe to make the turbo sit more in the middle of the engine bay so that I have clearences for the air filter when I want to use it and also so that the charge piping wouldnt be so close to everything. But then I worrie of the stress on the headers from the turbo being farther off of them and the extra piping. Keep in mind there is no IC anymore so that charge piping is all going to be removed and replaced with 2 1/2 pipe and 2 either 45* or 90* couplers off the turbo and TB to connect the piping.

 

put the inlet of the turbo twards the cener of the motor so u can run the downpipe down to the firewall and out

 

Yea I will say i though of that but 3inch is tight in there i know that. I also though of just doing what i did before on the DP and making it dump in the front but more eligent this time....

 

Dave how big was pills DP on that 3.4L turbo build off the top of your head. I will say thats what I wasnted to do if I can make that work with the headers i have. His dont look like 3" though but would it fit?? I know youd know!!

Thanks

I "think" that if I just take that 90* I have and turn it to the side and then I could weld the flange on with no issue, then the DP could go out the rear. And your right it would make the charge piping a nice shot to easily be made up as long as that turbo fits in there like the other did. I think its basically the same dimentions else then the compressor housing hight.



Although he has that turbo out pretty far where id know if I had mine in the exact same place it wouldnt work.. I need to make sure its about 1" closer to the center of the car then he had.

Also would it be ok to have the O2 sensor that far away as pills did?? I ask because I know that i have just enought wire to make it to about where hes at. a good 18" off the turbo at least.

Im also concerned about the clearence in front of the turbo inlet. Is there a general guideline for that??

 

we did a 2.5 inch downpipe on his car cause his ex from the firewall back was only 2.75 inch

for an air filter we cut out the bottom of the battery tray there and he ran a 90* coupler and put the filter on the end of that , the charge pipe was also down threw the same hole

if that gives u the room for a 3 inch downpipe to clear thats the way to go.
turbos are same dimensions ur compressor housing will be slightly larger

we had to ever so slightly dent in his inner fender for one of the downpipe bolts but with u having the 4 bolt flange u shouldnt have to do that

yes the wideband is heated so u could put it that far or a lil fiurther back, just have to make sure u have atleast 3 ft of pipe after the 02 or u can get false readings at idle/low rpm

 

Ok im going to aim the comp out twarts the TB for now so I shouldnt have any issues with the charge piping. Im going to entertain the idea this weekend by sitting the engine down in the car but not bolting it down so that I can see what I can do and then weld it up, bolt it up first.

Im not a big fan of running a air filter at the track but with this more exspencive turbo i def need to always have one on when not at the track just for piece of mind.

Thanks again.

 

Hey eddie, hopes this gives you some ideas. on the DP, You can run a 4 inch if your creative. Remember my car is a v8 tpi car. I see the issue with yours with the crossover comming up the back. Got a better pic of that area in your car?


this was a mockup w 3 inch


this is a 4 inch straight pipe just to see if it would fit. It does, its close but with a couple of loops there enough space for me there


this is the current setup, thats a 3 inch to a 3.5 inch pipe fits very well.


Here's a overall view. Hopes it helps get you some ideas on how to sneak it.

 

pics..





Even without A/C it just seems a little tight with a 3". Ill have to go and try and see what fits this weekend when I start playing with the car.

Thanks for the pics though I really do appreciate it.

 

That damm 3" pipe just isnt fitting without a much better fabricator then me...lmao.

SO heres the plans. The charge will run 10 inches off the turbo via a 90* silicon connector first then pipe. Then up 16" off another 90* silicon and pipe, then a final turn into the throttle body. The BOV will be on the first straight shot of 10 inches of pipe after the turbo. Then on the last bit of pipe the IAC will be installed after the Alky nozzle.

The turbo is mounted a tad higher but clears the hood easily with 2 inches above the comp and 3 1/2 inches above the hot side. I think a turbo blanket is in order to ensure that I dont have any heat issues with the hood.

The down pipe will shoot 4" out of the turbo then a direct 45* bend twards the ground. A total of 24" of linear pipe will be there. Im hoping that If I place the WB o2 about 8 inches away from the turbo that another 16 inches past the O2 will be ok for idle and Part Throttle AFR readings and that 8" is sufficient for the placement away from the turbo. I dont wana mess that thing up.

I sorta modded up some pipe for the charge piping but This is just to make sure that the charge piping would fit right and allow me to add in the compontets I need. Also the charge and DP are about 1" apart for just a X pattern that they cross. I plan to wrap the crap out of all the hot side piping.

Its the best I can do for now as im just not a great fabricator and the tools I have to do the work are weak at best less the welder I use.

Pics

Remember this is mock up piping on the charge side. Not the read deal. Just gave me a idea....lol








I really hope thats not to sever of a 90* bend. I have to say I HAVE NO IDEA how I was making arround 300Hp before because that previous charge piping was just pitiful... literly. Its was bad just take my word for it. The flow from the bends and shittty filling welds is embarasing..lol



Will be nice to have a Air filter on this one for the driving on the street for once...lmao I think its starting to look sic though in my mind compared to what I had a year ago.



Questions for you guys. Is this the right oil adapter as my old one has the threads literly pealing off???
Id like to fit a 90* one on it this time. My one thought is if I can spin that thing on the turbo and have room to do it though.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pro-Series-9...&forceRpt=true

Is this the right bung to get for the 02 sensor? Also any ideas on the threads of the IAC sensor?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/290781163993...84.m1438.l2649

 

thats the right o2 sensor bung , the iat temp sensor is just 1/2 inch pipe bung.

for the oil fitting u need a -4 an to 1/8th inch npt 90*

dont use that kink bend pipe on the compressor outlet, rotate the compressor hosuing 180* so the outlet is pointing stright up then stick a 90* coupler on that to point it twards the tb

u can run it how u have it for now but atleast get rid of that really crappy bend u will get some serious airflow turbulance caus eof that one bend

looks good , but btw even that airfilter is to small so run at the track without it

 

I know that air filter suxs but Ive gotta run one on the way to the track this year..lol Last year i think i got lucky because i never trashed the turbo with a stone on all those trips there and back.

Ok on the adapter. And bung sizes. Thanks!

If I point the compressor into the air it will hit the hood when i shut it.

Im not using that piping that your seeing there... it was just to give me a idea of what I can fit in there. Ya know what i mean? Im going to use a 90 silicon bend off the turbo and new fresh pipeing. No crush bends at all!!!

 

any updates? have u been able to fire the new engine yet?

 

Got some 3 inch piping the other day for the DP. Amazes me how large that looks.

I need to weld up that this weekend.

I also got the fittings i needed, and the bung. Also some silicon 90*;s for the charge piping. Should be able to basically get all the piping done this weekend, and have the engine done. Just have to then toss the trans back on and fire it up and pray it all is right...lol

 

nice btw i sent u a pm u hsould check out

 

I did check the thread but the budget is killing me right now...lol


Its gonna be close with the DP but it will work with some heat wrap and moving teh alky a bit. I plan to get that fabed up tommorow.






Also that fitting i got for the oil feed.i cant spin it on, it hits the comp housing...lol

 

does the gt35 have an oil feed that has the bolt holes oustide the oil feed hole liek the old turbo???

yeah i saw that thread and was like damn thats perfect for fasteddi, but as u know great deals like that only come up when money is real tight

if i didnt just buy a brand new block id prolly ask him to see how much shipping all that stuff to utah would be, but the block i just bought cost me 2,300 bucks and im about to go buy another block for about 3k

 

use a lil 45* bend or so to clear the charge pipe then go around the engine on the driver side and snake the downpipe out behind the driver side front tire

looking good

 

just noticed ur missing the bov get that put on so u dont hurt the turbo, it has to be before the meth nozzle as well

 

The bov is there already. It's on that first 16 inch pipe off the turbo. But it's facing towards the ground.. Thats prob why you can't see it.

 

Why don't you turn the compressor housing, so that the outlet is facing up, basically 180* from where it is, then use 2 90* bends to get to the TB?

It would save on length of tube, which I know won't really make a difference in the way the car performs from that aspect, but would get the charge tubing away from the hot exhaust.

 

Six it's not gonna clear the hood. But now that I have the hood on I guess I could try it this time and see if that's really the case as before the hood was off and I just assumed it wouldn't fit by looks.

 

lol thats the same thing i told him to do.
its looks like it will just clear

fast get a 1/8th in pip nipple to screw into the turbo oil feed then screw on a pipe nipple then screw the adapter into that

 

dammmit you guys were right. That puppy just barly clears by like 1/2 inch at the most....

Heres the junk BOV pipe on there..lol
Looks to be just enough room to fit in a IAT sensor there right after the BOV then add in the alky nozzle just when the last 90* goes into the coupler for the TB. There a 2 1/2 pipe in there to connect them. Is that too close to the TB for the alky??

Dave you lost me on the oil feed adapters....




alky spot


Would trimming down the 90 a tad help this bend smooth out? Is it too bad?? The stupid radius it too much.

 

trimming it will help out a lil bit

or u could get a 2.5 inch to 3.0 inch 90* coupler , but then u would lose the spot for ut meth nozzle

u want the ait sensor in the stream of air ith the meth , id drill and tap the intake behind the tb or back of the plenum for the sensor


screw this into the turbos oil feed fitting hole
http://www.homedepot.com/buy/watts-1...l#.UJXj9WenhK0

u will prolly need somethign a lil longer ,then u screw on a nipple so u can screw that 90* pipe to an adapter into place


other then that use a stright 1/8th to -4an adapter screwed directly into the turbo , and buy a 90* -4 pushlock end for ur oil feed line hose



that bov really needs to go fast it is garbage and is deff going to leak

 

I still have a rfl, just never got to welding it up last season..lol I need to stop being lazy.

Ok on the IAT sensor. Thanks

 

actually i would put the meth nozzle right after the bov , then put the ait sensor right were the hole is in the pipe by the tb

 

deff do that before u get it running or u wont do it lol

thats hwo i am once i have something up and running i dont wanna take it apart to fix other things i should have done before

btw if u ever put ur v6 car up for sale i want first dibs lol

 

I got the alky nozzle on there and also the IAC on there. I will get the RFL on there too. I also mocked up the DP. Its 26 inches total and the o2 sensor is 10 inches from the turbo. The cars gonna be loud again but its a simple way for me to get the exhaust out. 3 inch is def alot better then the 2 1/2 crap i had before.

Look ok?


I also trimmed down the 90*s a good inch and now they are nice flowing bends.

Dave Ill probly never sell the car(got too much $$ in it already but you know how that goes) but if I ever did youd be the one to get it...lol

 

The DP is welded up and the only main concern I have is what adapter do i need for the oil return on the turbo as the one off my prior turbo doesnt fit. The new turbo seems to have the bolt holes closer together.

I just need to wrap all this piping up and then toss it on for good.

 

down pipe is to short for u to rely on the wideband , make it go around the block on the driver side then down and out behind the front tire.

u could try it as is but im pretty sure it will give false readings at anything other then wot, and even at wot u will prolly get frsh air back up into the wideband location


can u file the oil drain adapter holes closer together???

if not get a piece of steel plate and drill the holes +the center hole and weld an 1/2inch npt pipe bung to it this will let u screw ur 1/2npt to -10 adapter into it

 

Dave that down pipe is actually longer then my last one and I never had issue with bad readings at idle or part throttle driving. I rememver removing all my piping on the past set up and didnt notice any difference in the readings except at WOT where they actually went up .5 afr. A good 17-18 inches after the WB before the pipe dumps now compared to about 10 inches before. BUT I can try and make the pipe longer next weekend as id rather be safe then sorry.

Yes I could file the holes out and get it to work that way. I never realized that there were different adapter oil feeds.