Ok the alky does light up well. I just tried that.

Another thing though i was thinking:
The wastegate is opening faster now as I fixed it the other day. I tightend down that nut on the shaft and never drove afterwards till I moved the reference for the WG to the intake manifold.

The reason I though of that is, is why would the gate open at lower psi when referenced to the intake compared to opening at higher psi at the turbo port?? Thats what made me think....dammit i forgot about fixing the wastegate.

So in reality thats what I wanted that gate to open at origanlly. 8-9psi. And now it does and holds seady at 8.5psi. So ill just hook up the boost controler, jack it back to 11-12psi and then see if the alky is timed right to start. My only issues is running a freaking 4 inch pipe from the turbo to get air from the outside of the engine bay.

Im thinking of setting the alky contact at 6psi to come on for 12psi. Mainly because of how fast the damm turbo spools up.

Im still working on getting the correct injector offsets from southbay.

 

If I can get the welders at work to make something up just like this, would it be ok flow wise?? This would be perfect to run where the piping went before to the intercooler. Theres whered i could mount a larger air filter, and get cool fresh air.

Ideas??
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...fier=64595_0_0_

 

buy 2 4 inch mandrel bends from columbia river mandrel bends and weld up or own intake tube. u want smooth bends on the intake pipe.

if i were u i would run the intake stright off the turbo and put a 90* bend on it and suck air in from under the fender , a 4 inch tube should fit right in there

 

even cheaper then that would be to goto the parts store buy a stright section of 4 inch tubing and a 90* coupler off ebay

 

I cant fit a filter in that area in the fender though. Being it would be in the fender area, i would think that a stone or stuff like that would be more suseptible to fly into the turbo.

The idea of the couplers is much better though, i like that idea.

 

heres the problem if u put any bend i.e 45/90* directly onto the turbo inlet u kill flow and efficiancy.

the best way to get the most out of the turbo is to mount a belmouth to the inlet , or have atleast 6-8 inches of stright section before any bend.u want the air to enter the wheel as stright and flat as possible

 

Damm, isnt there any cheeper ones then this
?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vibrant-Perf...a4eed2&vxp=mtr

 

i did see some for 30-40 bucks on ebay , serach for veocity stack instead of bellmouth

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-ANODIZED-B...3a9b57&vxp=mtr

Cheepest 4 inch on I could find.

How many inches of clearence should I have after the stack to the nearest fenderwall??

I talked to southbay today and looks like my injector offsets were way off. I will be sending them off for them to get specific. But compared to my .843msec they are saying more like 1.2msec. Thats quite a difference.

 

u want atleast a few inches of clearance

im going to assume the injector offsets are refering to injector dead time. i.e how long it takes the injector to actually spray fuel from when it first starts geting power.

low -z injectors like mine are around .75-.82ms
in general most high -z injectors like urs are around 1.1-1.2 ms

set ur offset to 1.2 and see if the idle smooths out , be aware changing these settings will skew ur ve table and u will need to readjust

 

Yes also called dead time. Just used as offsets in GM and my mask.

I upped it to 1.250. It really did help out the idle issues and really seems to have better throttle reponce for the little bit I drove it. I ended up taking out 11% of total fueling on my F77 table. That table is a totall multiplyer of the whole VE table.

It took quite a few chips but I got it to idle and drive about .5 afr under where it was before. 13.5-14.0 as of now generally. Still needs more fuel taken out but I ran outta time.

I did also notice that yet the whole table is still .5 afr rich, the boosted table was .5 Lean. I was running a solid 12.0 under the little pull I made. I dont like that afr and want 11.5 insted. Its just weird how its rich everywhere else from that offest being different but not in the boosted cells.

Also there is no way that the IAT sensor is right. After 5 minuets of idling and burning chips i noticed that the IAT sensor said 80*!!! Its 40* outside and the hood was up the whole time. I took the pipe off to feel the air that the turbo was pushing under light throttle burps and I measured about 50-55* tops right before the sensor. That thing is either wrong or the long extended wiring I made is messing with it. Now its starting to make sence why on a cool 50* day im running 100*+ intake temps before boost and 110-120* temps durring.

Damm, car... its always something!

 

Tommorow im just going to take the sensor out of the housing and let the car idle, and make sure its not near the car(the wires long enough for that) and then see if it reads the same as my digital p-crometer. Then if its wrong, ill just set it aside again but leave the car off and just measure its resistance. Either way i bet its the sensor or some offset set wrong in the ecm bin.

I hope this reference is correct https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...ase-ctsmat.gif

 

are you using bosch III injectors? if you are noticing that your blms change at different air temps, it might be time to adjust those values. they can be tricky so i suggest you hit up c59.org and ask those folks for some IAT vs. temp tables to help cut down on tuning time.

 

Ive never ran closed loop so Ive never looked that the BLM's. But Ill hop back on 59 and see what they say about it.

 

Damm car drives nice. Its really cold today. 40* which is cold for me..lol But drives nice no bucking, no surging or stalling. Nice streatablity.

Took it for a few runs with the boost set to 10.5 psi so i can dial in the boost controler. Just as I fix one issue another arises.

I can remember before when the car would start to studder under boost. Doesnt matter the RPM's just stutters such as if my spark is being blow out by the boost again. I gapped the plugs to .034 the otherday as I got new ones. So im 99.9% sure its just gapped to large for my shitttty ignition system.

Heres a log of some pulls. 1. it spins no matter what so 0-xxxmph times dont count. Also it was sputtering here and there on these pulls. The afr's are ok for my taste. 11.5-11.9 or so is ok with me. You can see that over 5800rpms its too rich though and needs adjusted asap.

The intake sensor checks out ok. SO its either radient heat from the piping or that alky just cant keep up. Im going with my second thought as without that intercooler she is all alone.

 

.034 is way to large , gap the plugs at .022-.025.

and please tell me u put delco r42 plugs in it , stay away form the gimic plugs like the platnums or rapid fires etc they do not work well iin boosted apps

witht he power ur making ur going to need an ignition box soon, and msd coil migh put off needing to upgrade the ignition for a bit but i owuldnt count on a coil alone fixing it

 

oh course there r42ts plugs. Thats what I always get but i was just woundering if i could push the gap the other day. Of course i was dumb and should have known the spark would blow out. I ran 8psi last night and no issues, 10-11psi today and issues..lol

Yea I should just get a MSD box. 6al or somthing. Would adding that by itself fix the problems?

 

a 6al or eqiv box ewill deff help as it will have more energy for the spark to jump the plug gap under the high cyl presures. with an ignition box u will be able to open the gap back up as well.

if u buy a buy wether new or used make sure it has the option of a 2 step feature or u can add a 2 step 2 it

 

That fixed the issue. Gapped at .026 and worked well. I drove it today even thought its a little wet outside. Cant really lay into it unless your really moving already. I noticed it was a tad rich but still ok. Low 11's for almost all of the logg. IAT are steady to creap up to 128* but no KR unless I do a burnout then I stop flooring it anyways.. Those temps like to rise a solid 40*. But im woundering if when I up the boost to say 12psi will the temps be about the same or lower becuase when I look at that compressor map and the lbs/air Im guessing at, that thing will be a tad more efficent in that higher boost area.



I love the wet road when I get to look like a drifter in that car...lol that damn thing is fun. I need to video tape that stuff.

 

Update. I started messing with the rear end. I got the backing plates off the new rear end(the disk brake ones)

I started to take off the old rear end today. Only spend about 1hr on it but wow are some of those bolts PITA's.

Any insite on a decent low priced rear shock?? These ones on it are past there time and its just time for new ones back there. Budgets tight, but anything under 100 bucks for a pair that will be "ok" for what I need them would be great.

Also anothe thought. Since the gearing is going from 3.23 to 3.73 I know the spedo will be off. There is a pulse per min on my mask. Does anyone have a idea if changing that will work? I know its arround 4000 and when it was at 2000(starter bin) it was half the real speed.

 

I had lakewood 50/50's in mind but didnt know how harsh they would be on the drive to the track and playing arround in town

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/la...t/model/camaro

 

That will change/correct it in the ECM, but won't affect the speedometer.

Can use an SGI-5 box to fix the speedometer. Or, may be able to find the drive/driven gears in an Astro van 700R4. IIRC, they came with rear gears in that range.

RBob.

 

so it uses a speedo cable? is it similar to the vss/speedo cable combo as found on fox mustangs?

 

Magnetic 4-pole VSS in the transmission. Driven by gears same as a cable speedometer.

The ECM buffers the VSS signal and sends a pulse stream to the cruise & speedometer. There is a course adjustment for those data streams. Such as for when GM used 17 tooth trigger wheels on the output shaft.

There is a fine adjustment for the ECM's internal MPH calculation. So the ECM's MPH can easily be adjusted.

Note that this is for '90 - '92 MPFI and TPI f-body's. Other years & models are different.

The slickest set up is what the trucks got, should have also been used on f-bodys. The trucks use a 40 tooth trigger wheel on the transmission output shaft. Then use a DRAC (digital ratio adapter controller) to buffer the VSS and create pulses streams to the various equipment.

The dang things are programmable for the output shaft speed versus PPM outputs. Change tire size, re-strap it. Change rear gears, re-strap it. Makes it so easy.

As a matter of fact, I wonder if the f-body output shaft can accept the 40 tooth trigger along with the magnetic pickup. Makes it all so much easier.

RBob.

 

spring for the adjustables they are the same price summit and c.e enginering both made them though i dont see them listed on summits site anymore. id give them a call and ask


i run my ce shocks on the 50/50 setting most of the time unless track conditions get really bad ill set them harder , when the track is really good ill set them on soft


on the street the ride isnt bad but the car will try to slide if u hit some bumps in the corners

havent heard a lot on these but i have heard they are pretty damn nice
http://www.jegs.com/i/QA1/122/EC1985...16#moreDetails

 

if it uses the same drive/driven gear as the ford counterparts it should be easy to find the correct driven gear. i have the 4 pole driven vss that came on mustangs with cruise control. i also have a 21 tooth driven speedo gear if you can use it, mark

 

Would the 21 tooth be somewhat close to correcting the 3.23 to 3.73 gap? If so what would you want to get it to my house?? Pm me or let me know.

Im not terribly concerned about the correct mph but it sure would be nice to get that somewhat close just for the street drives.

 

depends on if the gears are the same, you would have to pull yours and take a picture so we can compare. also depends on the tooth count of the drive gear, for 3.73 rear gears, you will need the 21 tooth driven gear and the 7 tooth drive gear.

 

u can get the output shaft gears and also the vss gears on ebay pretty cheap if need be

 

Damm was that rear a PITA to get out. The bolts on the LCA's were basically fused with the bushing. I had to cut the shafts off the bolts. But after 4 hrs of fighting with it I got it off.

Is there a trick to getting the larg bolt off the backing plate for the drums? That thing is horrible and I dont wana cut if off since it looks like it has something to do with the drums(the bolt shaft). To be hones if I could somehow find rear disks somewhat cheep and be able to put them on I may just do that while im at it.

 

I should use Gm limited slip additive on the Alburn LSD correct?? Thanks for any help.

 

yes and standard gear oil, not any of the synthetic or racing crap notice i said crap

once the rear is in remove the plug on the rar with a 3/8's drive ratchet squirt in the posi additive then add the gear oil till it just starts comming out the fill hole and reinstall the plug , should take about 1.5 bottle of gear oil

 

u going to take it for a drive once u get the new rear in ?

 

of course!! But I need to get some shocks ordered, get the new crap for the rear drumbs and such. Just need to make a list and let the debit card go crazy..lol

Im hoping that I can get it all together by mid january.

 

before u go crazy with all that stuff did u get the pm i sent ya

 

about the tranny? Yea, budgets tight or id jump on it. mabey by spring time Ill have the extra cash to do that.

Ive been saving for a bit just to get the shocks rear brake stuff, and new front brakes. My front rotors are shot..lol

House payments and christmas about broke me this year..lmao

 

sent u a pm about an ignition box too


anyways i had some free time so i ran some calcs for ya and based them on known testing

this is with 1psi @ 2,800 and full boost by 3,500 rpms redline of 6,800
with ur setup and cam im showing 357hp/471ftlbs @11-13 psi with a max air temp of 135*
bump boost to 19-21 psi and numbers jump to 458hp/563ftlbs with air temps around 142*

im going to rerun the sims with the 272 cam and play with moving the cam around a bit but i think 500hp should be possible, though i do belive the turbine wheel and housing is going to hold it back slightly if u have the smaller turbine

as im not sure which turbine ur gt3582 has so i did the calcs with the larger turbine

 

Turbine wheel is 68 and 62.5mm ones

I got the hook up on a used 6al box from a friend. thankfully got it for 75 bucks and its only a year old and works so no complaints here.

Those are impressive numbers.

Whats a average drivetrain loss for a good 700r4 on our camaros? 20 or so %?

 

nice now u just need a 2 step box addon and we can get u setup with a somewhat of an antilag/launch system

ive heard form reliable sources that with the 700r4 and a high stall converter that 20-25% loss ,with the converter u do have now id expect it to be much closer to 30-34%

 

god almighty man....30+% loss?? Thats so much.

Happy new yers BTW

 

I worked that old rear end today getting the pan hard bar off. Had to cut the bolts out again. Its a PITA getting suspention stuff off. Now I need to press out the rest of the bolt.

I do have a problem though. I was going to take off the axles to get the backing plates off but I can not get the pinion shaft off to get the c-clips off. Any sugestions? Thats one bolt that hold the pinion shaft in just wont come out. 5/16ths bolt. Why is it standard when everything else is metric....lmao I literly broke a socket tq'ing on it. It is a normal forward thread IIRC. I just remember taking out the pinion on the new rear end was a breeze!!

If I wasent selling this rear end id just start cutting crap with the matobo!!!.lol

 

Yea, gotta' love rusty suspension bolts. Been down that road too many times. When you replace them coat the bolt shank with grease. That helps down the road.

For the differential cross-shaft bolt, an 8 mm wrench fits tighter then the 5/16" wrench.

Get a propane torch (home plumbing torch) and heat the bolt head and the area of the carrier just under the head. There is a locking compound on the threads.

The heat helps release it.

RBob.

 

yeah i always use a short box and wrench and give it a good smack with a hammer, usually loosens right up

yeah ur convertr is never locking up so its basically just like a slipping clutch

 

Updates. I didnt work on the rear anymore yet since its loke 10 degrees outside and my barn isnt fully insulated.

I did get new rear shoes, new springs for the brakes, new adjusters, and new shocks back there. Just kyb gas adjust mono shock ones. Those are the best I could afford. Also got new disks for the front along with pads. Now im thinking of getting a line lock kit but im unsure what is the best for my buck. There are alot of kits out there and I would think it would be easy as shittt to install one since its just a silenoid.

Also got a boost/vac guage finally.

Im going to get the newer rear end from my parents house since thats where it was last at since i did the engine tear down. Ill be starting to put the backing plates on(hopefully) sunday or early next week along with mounting it up.

I still need to get some new bolts for the suspention stuff. And need to re-flare the brake lines since I just cut them as close to the valve as possible since the fittings were a pita and were not coming off in that position i was in. So Ill need new fittings also.

Are those double flare fittings? Any clue on the thread pitch on those?

 

i installed the slp kit, it was $160 but it only took 15min to install the line lock kit

also im not sure what you paid for rear struts but the competition engineering 3 way adjustables are only $47 each

 

these were 30 bucks a pop.

 

i understand being on a budget but return them, reinstall ur old shocks till u can save up the extra 34 bucks and buy a pair of c.e 3 way adjustables .

ur going to need them anyway u look at it resuse the old shocks for now and only buy one set of shockls i.e the right shocks once u have enough cash. otherwise ur just going tp spend more money.


those kyb's wont allow u to launch the car at all , i originally has a set of gr2's kybs on my rs they lasted all of 2-3 weeks before i yanked them off and put the c.e shocks on

summit has there own brand of 3 way adjustable shocks which should be about 30 bucks each iirc , and to be honest im pretty sure they are just the c.e shocks painted white , i had a set of those as well on another f-body

 

Finally got all the suspentions stuff ready for the new rear end. Took hrs and hrs to bash the old bolts off the pan hard bar and trailing arms. They were just stubbern.

I also mocked up some hvac block of plates. I still want to add a gasket or some RTV under them but its too cold out in my garage to do such a thing.

I have a huge question that I cant fine.... what are the fittings that are on the rear brake cylinders. I know there for 1/4 inch line, metric and ISO flare ones but I dont know the threads... Any help?



6 bolts in total like this one


Its ready. Sure wish I had a heated garage so that I could clean that up down there and add some paint.

 

make sure u get grade 8 hardware , as far as the threads on the brake lineszim not sure ask in the brake section they will know

 

grade 8 bolts as in hardware?

I got the adjustable shocks coming...lol