It doesnt move in netral yet but I know exactly what you mean, my friend back in the day had that happen on his 91 Z28 with nitrous on it..lol Finally after he kept at it, he Literly barly left the line at the drag strip. Trans was shot, the clutch plates were bent inwards from the outside in, warped. And wow was the metal showing and looking horrible.

 

i keep forgeting u dont daily drive ur car so it will last a lil longer , i have a video of mine somewere with mine in nuetral were the car would drive up a slight hill in nuetral

 

Wow uphill too?

I noticed tonight that when in 2nd gear and the trans was cooler(first pull) it shifted right and was very very fast 0-80Mph time. 7.10 seconds On the datalog it didnt even take a whole second to go from 70-80mph. It was .76 seconds split.

But once it was warmed even more it was worse. 8.0 seconds which is basially a normal preformance time for me. Same start, no burnout. Rpms drops were ok. This slower pull was a 1.4 second split time from 70-80mph. God i which i just had the cash to do this right this season!

Dave what exactly makes the car shift at higher Rpms?? Such as when it was stock it shifted at lower Rpms then now when its from 5800-6000.

Damm drivetrain.

 

when i had my old dime it used to do that, added a tranny cooler and it helped keep it cooler. iirc the 700R4 only sends fluid to the cooler once it shifts into OD

 

most of it is the power, but heat and changing the converter form stock, and different sized tires will make it shift lower or higher .

u could get a govener recalibration kit to make to adjust the shift points.
when ur racing u should be manually shifting as well as this increases the line presure in the trans


if u could find a 2004r u could buy a stage right trans brake for 50 bucks, theese are manual transbrakes instead of elecetric. what u do is put the gear selector in 1st" this activates the tranbrake to launch u move the shift lever into 2nd gear.

they dont make them anymore as far as i know but u could find the trans brake on the buick turbo forums used,

and yes u shoudl deff have a trans cooler but i wouldnt worry about it now till u figure out which route ut going to go trans wise anyways

 

never mind looks liek u can buy them new for 150 bucks

https://www.stagerighttransmissions....romt=&fromd=on

 

200r4 will require a new driveshaft though it would be about 1 inch to short on the stock shaft
it might be possible to find a longer shaft in the junkyard, u would have to goto the jy and measure the shafts out of s10 pickups/blazers and the monetcarlos , might be a few other options as well.

if everythign could be pieced together id go 200 over th350

the th350 is basically the only one were u could use ur stock ds

 

updates ? have u taken out the intercooler yet?

 

Na, i havent had time. Work has been very demanding latly..lol.

I still havent found a 350 trans that has the 9inch tailshaft. Seems all the people I know that have one laying arround have the 6 inch version.

On sunday I do plan to remove the intercooler and pipe up the turbo straight to the IC. The only thing is I dont really want to spend the time to do that if the trans/converter, wont handle the power and make the car faster at this point.

 

the trans will take it u may just blow threw the converter a lil more. the converter isnt broken so to say, its just not locking up at the right rpm anymore

 

Its a sad sad day at the track.

Remember all those times when I was having a oil issue and though it was a pvc valve related but only happend ittermittany? Well i did it after a pass today and this time didnt go away. As soon as I saw the oil coming out of the passanger breather, I took off the oil fill cap and there it was. Blow by. A good amount of it.

I did comp on all cy. The whole passanger side was fine all 145psi. Driverside. 125, 125, and 75 on the firewall cy. I then shot some oil in her and the compression went up to about 125. When I shot some oil into the 125psi ones it went up to 150.

My rings are shot then and its very depressing. Very!

 

get the head torn off and it might be as simple as a head gasket. highly unlikely for all the rings to go bad on one side of the engine

 

i agree its very highly unlikley that u killed the rings on one bank,
if u did depending on the condition of the bore we can get u fixed up for about 40-60 bucks

 

how many miles were on the engine when u started to turbo it?
only thing i can think of if it was a low mile engine that the top ring gap was to tight.
but if it is rings and it didnt hurt the pistons or the cyl bores u can drop new rings in cheap without having to tear down the whole engine.

get a bottle brush hone , pull the head, drop the pan , push out all 3 pistions, run the hone threw real quick, install new rings and drop the pistons back in .

after the hone u will have to clean out the bores and the bottom end of the motor well.before reinstalling the pistons. technically not the right way to do it but it will get u up and running fast and cheap, and as long as u properly get all the grit out from honing it wont damage the engine


if it is infact the head gasket i would suggest switching to arp head studs though i dont see why u would need them my factory style headbolts were good for mor epower and boost then u are running.

btw what did it run?

 

I dont see how it could be a head gasket though? As when I shot oil in there it sealed it up and held the pressure pretty well.

If the head gasket was bad(loose) how would the blow by get back to the crankcase?? I am going to take the one side off today and look in here and see whats going on. I cant make anymore passes on the engine this year. Only one racec left and to be honest I dont wana push the poor car. Im a newbe though so who knows. Im still learning so it may be the headgasket.

It ran a 13.9x@107Mph with a 2.34 60Ft time IIRC. Its early in the morn so those numbers are just a guess as they wernt impressive at all. Really embarrasing. It also ran a 14.02 @107Mph with a even slower 60Ft time.

It had 111k miles before the cam/turbo now has almost 113K miles. Not many miles but you know all of those miles were basically WOT ones..lol

 

That mph is very impressive for that setup, and any real racer knows what it really means in actual ET, solid 12's with a good sixty foot. I say you have come a long way with this build, and have not only proven yourself, but have also inspired so many others to do the same, which was the whole entire point. Excellent job...

 

Thanks Rob.

 

Just wanted to say listen to these guys. That's GREAT MPH for as stock as the engine is. If you're running that with a hurt engine wait till it fires right on all holes.

 

exactly, there is no reason that whole combo should run low 12's, with some real headers and a bigger turbo theres no reason it shouldnt go 11's

 

Mark, I have an L69 Y-Pipe that I removed from my old '84 Anniversary car, and they are freaking huge. Would work excellent if you decide to go the twin turbo route over the winter...

 

I have to say I have though about it. Another turbo would fit so nice up there under the hood. But I would have a few questions.

Would just one more turbo of my size added be too big? Too much, laggy or choked.

How balanced do the headers have to be as if there not just right would that cause certaint banks to have issues?

The last thing is Im scared to death that If I swap the head this weekend and recheck the compression on the cylinders in question and they check out ok.... will that engine take TT's

Its is definitly something Ive though of though.

 

twins would be badass , the motor dont know the difference between one or 2 turbos

the problem is witht he 57mm turbo 2 of them would be a tad large so u would have to run more boost

u could deff modify the current headers for twins, u would be in it for a new turbo ,wastegate and modifying the oil drain with a y fitting and a tee for the oil feed


will it be laggy ??? YES with ur current setup
can u fix the lag issues ???? YES, 2 step, converter and getting rid of the 700 trans since the 1st gear is way way to steep

the end all fix would be a trans with a trans brake

 

Little incentive for the winter. This is a stock heads and cam TTA running a bigger turbo and stall speed with a stock transmission. Look at the size tire Scott is running, and in this video he pulled a 1.54 sixty foot with them (10-12 psi launch w/trans-brake), followed by a 1.48 sixty foot (14-16psi launch w/trans-brake) with the same setup at a later date. These cars came with 3.27 gears out back. Get that launch down Mark, and you'll be deep in the twelves w/the same setup.

 

That is a hellof a launch! I want something like that badly. Stock trans on that car?? Really? Did they put the same 700R in those or something different(200's)

 

2004r

 

Ok thats what I though but didnt wana look like a dumby saying that.

 

... the 200R4's had a higher (numerically lower) first gear, and 3.27 rear gear (for the TTA's). Only good thing about them, to me, is that they don't have fourth gear lockout like the 700R4's do at wide open throttle, and you can run a trans-brake with them. Other than that, I would take my 700R4 over the 200R4 any day of the week. The pinion in the 200R4 has a .388 diameter, whereas the 700R4 has a .488 diameter. The 700R4 also has a larger input planetary, it simply comes stronger. There are so many areas that I can point out. I am not sure if the V6 version of the 700R4 is internally the same as the V8 version, though. Make no mistake though, when built, the 200R4's are literally bullet proof.

 

first gear is numerically lower in the 200 vs the 700

while the 200 + stage right transbrake would be perfect for fast its out of his modding range i belive, it would require him to have a custom driveshaft made, unless he can find a used one out of a tta.

i dont know of any other cars he can get a driveshaft out of that would be a bolt in deal

the planetary in the 700 is also one of its weakest points

internally the v8 and v6 versions of the 700 are identical though the v6 version never did get the 30 spline input shaft

when i was rebuilding my 700's we would just use tci race kits for the v8 trans

 

 

I use to hear the rule of thumb that if you multiply the first gear ratio by the rear end and get a number near 10 or higher its a good area to start at..

Example 700r 3.06 x my 3.23 gears=9.xx.

 

thats n/a
and what really hurts the 700r4 is the split form first to second gear the rpm drop is massive

the 200 has the best ratio and the th350 isnt far behind

 

Curious but what size turbos would line up right with a twin turbo set up??

 

pair of t3's 50 trims or a set of the ebay 48mm's

 

like the ones pills had? Was his a 50 or a 54mm one?


Can you tell what differential this is? its got 3.23's in it but im woundering what the diff is? Its one for sale near me. Junk?? Gov lock? Im not even sure if its a 7.5 or 8.5 rear

 

For 100 bucks and if it has 3.23's is it better? The stock clutch ones sux though dont they?
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...osi-axles.html

 

buy a mini spool for 90 bucks and be done with it

 

I may just do that, its not like I drive it on the streets much. I would have 500$ plus in that rear end by the time I get a LSD and install it. I hate to do all that on a 7.625 rear.

 

This runs on gears not clutches??

http://www.ebay.com/itm/93-02-camaro...53e979&vxp=mtr

Thoughts on its reliability with 300 HP it was a factory part on 2001 SS camaros with the ls1

 

Mark, that last one is like the one I have in my camaro. Of course I haven't pushed as much power through it yet but, so far it has been good to me!

 

we used to break the torsens with bone stock ls1's and automatics

the best advice i can give u is spend as lil money as possible on the 10 bolt rear

weld it/minispool normally i would say used gear set but since u have never set up a rear before using used gears would make it 10x harder

 

What were your best 60ft times on that car that you can remember? What did you launch at? Is it a normal weight camaro or did you lighten it?

 

DAVE, you think I can just reuse the head bolts and HG for the test to see if those cylinders are bad? Thats all fresh stuff basically but has been installed once.

 

For a test like you are doing, it should be ok.

 

headbolts yes just dont tq them down to what they should be and they wont break
u dont need full force on them since the engine will never fire and the cyl presures wont be anywer enear what they would be witht he engine running

u could try reusing the old gaskets but i dont think it would work

get new ones and u will be able to reuse them if the engine is good since u wont be putting full tq on the head bolts

using new gaskets will eliminate the possiblity of them leaking screwing with ur test results

 

Ok I gotta run to the parts store anyways tommorow. Just wanted to make sure I used what needed used.

If they dont have gaskets in stock though I might just try the re used ones just because if its still bad then Ill just wait till the parts store has them in stock for me.

 

best 60' was 2.04. It was on street tires but didn't spin any (I did run slicks some, too. but it didn't go any quicker). Full weight...ac and full interior and everything.

 

Ok, thats about where I was at on 60ft times also. My cars shed some weight though 3235(race weight) with me in the car last time I checked. So about 3050 with out me.

 

damn ur car is lite mine was 3455 with driver 3255 without

dont buy a posi man spend a slil as possible on the 10 bolt, if u do the th350 swap u wont want to go much higher then the 3:23's anyway

minispool it and when the rear blows up if it ever blows up go buy another pegleg 3:23 out of a v6 or 3:42 out of a v6 and transfer the minispool over

pegleg 3:23/3:42 rear is 100-150 bucks

 

Well dave i really took alot of weight out over the years. Not much under the hood, basically no exhaust, not back seats...exc

Love this pic..lmao

 

Update on the latest compression test.

I did NOT crank down the head bolts as they were reused. I chased the threads and tqed them to 40ft/lbs. I did not want to break them off.

#2 is 150psi (165psi with oil in it)
#4 is 148psi (165psi with some oil in it)
#6 is a sad 90psi, and 115psi with oil shoot into the cylinder.

The only thing that is confusing is that the compression on cy 2 and 4 were bad before. 120-125 IIRC. Now there the same as the other bank. Which were 145-150 on all cylinders. My only though is that because I do not have the intakes on the car that the cylinders drew in more air. Hense the higher pressure.

How could I do a leak down test and cheep way to guarentee its the rings before I go engine shopping(j/yards this fall).

The other thing I noticed is that after 10 minuets on #6 the cylinder pressure only went down about 8psi. Less then 10Psi I know that.

Ideas? It looks grim though. This is depressing.