Yeah, since the head bolts are open to the water jacket, they need or should have some sealant on the threads.

 

wierd ive never used sealant on the threads and never had them seep or leak water

 

Got everything back on the car except the upper intake, the x over, misc wiring, and working on that fuel pump line.

I didnt use any sealent on the heads just because Ive taken these heads off 3 times now and never did the bolts seep any fluid. So I just gave the head of the bolt a little lube and went at it like that.

I made three passes on the heads. 40 70 80. Last time they were to 75lbs. So since i chased the old threads(reused the head bolts) I tq a few lbs extra as it felt fine and didnt want to have them too loose for the psi of boost.

Also can someone remind me again how to set the 1 cylinder to TDC for when the dizzy is set to 7 oclock(#1)?? Is the thick notch on the harmonic damper suppose to face straight up twards the cam at 12 oclock or at the 0* mark on the timing scale on the damper? Thanks as I forgot.

Else then that it shouldnt take long to get it running. Tommorow I hope. One nice thing is that those headers are sure much easier to put on when all the bolts are there and the heads are off the car...lmao

 

Also helps to have someone hold the head gasket in place

 

pull the number 1 spark plug and stick ur finger over theplug hole and rotate the motor with a racthet when u feel presure starting to build look at the balancer and keep rotating the motor till the notch line sup with the 0 then ur at tdc. drop the distributor in and set timing with a timing light as usual

 

and ouch man 80fltb's, then again that may be really close to my 65 + 1/4 turn. if u pull the heads again throw those bolts away, even i wont reuse the head bolts more then twice

 

When I tq'd the heads down before and did the first pass then the 1/4 turn i measured 75 lbs of tq. So I just added 5lbs and called it a day.

Dont worrie I wont reuse those bolts more then once. Remember the issue I had before when I reused them, didnt clean the threads, and under tq'd them??

 

Timing is set up right car runs. I have a good question though. The PVC valve? Is it suppose to leak out under positive pressure when the air flow is moving from the intake to the valve cover.

Say im pushing 15psi through that engine via the turbo and that valve leaks like back into the valve cover and then literly blows oil out anywhere it can, not much but enough to hit the header and smoke a tad. Was I suppose to put a check valve in line with the PVC valve because if you blow in the tube(air going from intake to valve cover) Its will allow you to blow quite a bit and thats just me doing it, not the turbo.

Thanks for any help as this oil shooting out is driving me crazy. Im not the best mechanic but it just seems like there is no way that the pvc valve should let positive bosot back into the valve cover from the intake. I though it was just a controled vac. leak, the pvc valve.

Else then that The fueling is good to go besides the fact that I trashed a o ring and have to take the rail off and fix that. But in general the car is on its way back to the track soon.

 

The PCV valve is just metal to metal. The standard ones will leak boost into the crankcase. Can try one for a '89 TTA, but they too can leak boost, even though they are not supposed too.

Can use an inline check valve with the stock PCV valve. Such as a Us Plastics Check Valve part # 64175. I've even seen folks use a brake booster check valve.

RBob.

 

Well I tried to take the car out but still oil is coming from arround the valve cover or something. Starting to really irritate me. I did add some 3/8" hose and a check valve on the pvc valve.

Also I bought a exhaust lap clamps because the way I made the x over it is almost impossible to get the flanges up tight and flat so there is a section I cut out, the straight piece under the car. What I did is literly bolt the headers on the heads and the 3 bolt flange also and then wieve my head down and bolt it on the head. Probly a hard way but I know that the headers and the x over flange does not leak at all and wont leak. I know those U clamps are just horrible so I ordered two 2 1/2 Od to Od clamps from summit for 15 bucks. I live about 2 hrs from there so Im in hopes that they get here in 1 or 2 days. Im stuggling here trying to get the car up and going right again.....

 

quick test for u , unhook the pcv vale all together and go drive it, if it still spews oil u have other issues.

i always ran a catch can type setup on my system to elimiante this.

one valve cover have the standard pcv valve, in the other valve cover i ran a line to the botom port on the catch can, then the top line of the catch can went to the turbo inlet.

when in boost the line on the catch can would pull vacum and keep oil from seeping from gaskets and seals , the catch cans main puprpose is to seperate the ait is pulling from any oil it may suck up form the valve cover

 

check out RJCracing.com, and look at their pcv valve. meant for the turbo buick, but would be perfect for your setup as well.

 

yeah that pcv valve should work good,just make sur eu dont have any other issues except the pcv valve leaking first

http://rjcracing.com/product/rjc-pcv/

 

I added a universal break booster check valve yesterday and yes its going the right way. Didnt help. It driving me nuts man. Its just a few drops coming out of somewhere. But from the looks its shooting out since it will hit the #4 and #6 plug wires and it looks like a drops of spray. Its not the supply oil feed or any of the fittings, not the valve cover, but may be the oil pressure sensor as I had problems with that thing about 2 years ago where it would leak ittermitantly. Not where its screwed in but where the pig tail clips in.

 

thats actually a common thing, i had 2 irocs and both of them would leak out were the plug pluged in. to test this get a 1/8th inch pipe plug and remove the sending unit and put the pipe plug in
if the leak stops then u know u need to replace the sending unit

 

For the PCV, I have used a Mitsubishi turbo application PCV, bought it from a local parts store, I don't recall the exact application. The one I use is threaded on one end, works great. It would take a bit of modification to get it to work in the 660 application, but it seals off completely when there is positive pressure to the correct side.

The cam cover vent (fresh air vent), is connected directly to the turbo inlet, I have no oil being pulled through that line (baffling does the job it's supposed to).

 

Its gotta be the oil pressure sensor? Has to.

I took the car out today to see how sealed up my exhaust was. It spooled hard once it was going but was sluggish, I had the wastegate spring only in control..from what ive seen on the car being able to use the controler and put it at 99% DC for 0-10mph helps immencely with spool up. But since I didnt tune it much I felt safer at the 12psi or so with the spring compared to more. There may be leaks somewhere but I sure as helll dont see them at this point.

The oil is still shooting out, im just going to buy a sensor and hope thats the problem as its driving me nuts.

Heres a data logg, I know its lean 12.x afrs, this tune was intended for 16psi not 12 or 13 so it needs modded.

This car is slower for sure at 12psi, felt very slow in my mind.

 

Yeah, I know how that is, I finally got my car sorted, where I can make 15 PSIG in 1st and 2nd gear (I had it to 20 PSIG in 3rd and 4th on Sunday! ) After driving it at a solid 15 PSIG for two days, it now feels slow again.

 

it apears to be a lil slower compared to an older datalog, i forgot to check the rpm drop betwene this log and an old log but it apears ur converter maybe slipping rpms drop isnt that great on the shift. ill check that out later tongiht

 

5700 to 4850 from 1st to 2nd and 5750 to 4625 from 2nd to 3rd.

Looking at the split times from say 50-60 and 60-70 exc, it seems on pace with prior 12psi pulls, the start just suxed, I was going up a hill to about 60mph if that makes a difference. I sure hope that convert isnt slipping!!

 

old datalog shows
1-2 shift 5775 to 4,300 rpms
2-3 shift 5775 to 4775 rpms
that was 15 psi when u first put the meth injection in

so either ur making alot more tq or the converter is slipping badly

going uphill will slightly increase the load but not enough to make an 800 rpm diffrence in stall speed at the 1-2 shift

 

Im going to run it again tonight and see what the comparison is again.

Hope its not the convert, or 1st gear plates.

 

I literly give up. I hate to say it but no matter what I do to this car the x over suxs and I have literly no time and patients to make another on, and it wont be right anyways.

Project it shifts better now.. i reset the tv cable

I finally mad good boost on a pull but it lagged then once i went into WOT again in a few minuets less boost. The logg that I attatched. The flange doesnt line up right again. I swear the damn thing was right but its not. I tried to literly bolt it on the headers from the start and use a pipe and band clamps at the bottom of the x over and that doesnt work either as there is not enough straight area to clamp it. Im suppose to race at a large event this weekend but hell with it I cant go I guess.

Unless anyone can literly make me a x over for this car, im basically done with it for the year. Im in the process of buying a house and a whole bunch of other stuff and as sad as it is I cant rush this car anymore. I sux at welding and thats definitly my downfall.

Im about to see if anyone can just take what I have and copy it but make it right, dont even wana know what that will cost.

 

Calm down. Cut the crossover your using in half right in the middle, secure both sides of the crossover flanges to your turbo headers nice and tight, get some tubing that will slip fit over both sides of the crossover where you cut, slide one side in all the way, then back over the other side, then spot weld it in place. Remove the crossover, then weld it completely...

 

The only change I would make to that is to weld as much as you can while attached to the car, let it cool off completely, then remove it to weld the areas you couldn't get to in the car. Welding it off the car can make it move and twist from the heat of the weld. Ask me how I know. :facepalm:

 

i am attempting to build another one as we speak

 

weld 1/2-3/4 of an inch at a time let it cool then weld oposite were the first weld was.

before u weld anything try to get the pipe tacked in 4 to 6 locations around the pipe this will help it stop from pulling

basically the best way to weld would be

12oclock to 1
6oclock to 7
9 to 10
3 to 4
then
1 to 2
7 to 8
11 to 12
4 to 5

then finish off any remaining spots

 

Ok well I got the x over made up again, the flanges line up nicely and I took if for a spin. Wow is all i can say the first time I layed into it, i way overboosted right off the bat at about 20mph. Literly made 18psi+ before I knew it. That excited me so I then disconnected the controler and let the spring work, after a few pulls I noticed it was slower and slower to spool. I then came back and noticed after some thinking that the damm flange on the x over is indeed warped. Theres not much I can do about that at the moment. All I can do is just order 2 new 2 1/2 pipe 3 bolt flanges cut off the old and weld on the new. I do have to say that was the fastest that car has ever spooled before. PERIOD. Literly was boosting at 2000rpms from a dead stop and made the 18psi+ in a second or 2, amazing!

But for now the car is iffy if I should race it on saturday. No exhast shops have a flange of that size and Im trying my best to find someone who does that I can quickly weld on.

Another issue though is can my car ever have some sort of vapor lock? As you can imagine a few pulls and beatings on the car raises under hood temps amazingly with the larger headers and the only wrap i have at the moment is on the previous down pipe. What it does is idle funky here and there. Like it wants to lean out to 17afr then if i just burp the throttle its fine again. The injector DC is about 55% under boost so I know its no the fuel pump fuel filter and so on as I already looked at them.

Thanks for any tips!

 

ifits boosting that fast u should have no problems going low 12's
traction may become an issue though, but ur going to love boosted launches

any vids or datalogs?

 

I didnt log the one time it boosted so hard, i have a few of just the wastegate spring but like i said it got progressivly worse. I need two 2 1/2inch 3 bolt flanges like right now! That power was amazing.

 

if u have the room make ur own 4 bolt flanges out of 3/8s steel they will be more resitant to leaks and warping them 3 bolt flanges

u just need 2 square pieces of steel a drill and a 2.5 inch hole saw

 

I actually took the car to a buddies shop/ race mechanic. Im trusting that it is fixed as hes driving it right now as im off to a house inspection on my new house/

Come sunday ill let you guys know how it went, wish me luck

 

take it to the track turn up the boost and let her eat

 

Cant believe this..... rain out all weekend. No time trial no Nothing.

Ive got a datalog though on street tires and the AE was off and it was with just the wastegate. It runs now I know that!! Boost is fast and boost will light those street tires up like crazy.

Ill add the log here in a few minuets.

 

Heres the log, I did spin at the top of 1st gear bot of second you can see that from the MPH. There was 200lbs passanger with me, also I weighed the car with some more of that exhaust off the car that I recently took off. 3240lbs with me in the car and a 1/2 tank and the slicks(race ready)

Let me know what you think of the log. I fixed the 0-100% WOT afr richess this morning but didnt get to log much. You can guess I will tommorow out in the country if its nice out.

 

lil lean spot in the begining of the log but other then that looks pretty good.

i was going to tell u to bunp the timing 1-2 more *'s but i think u need to leave it as is and make a delete pipe for the intercooler and test without it

tracks not open on sundays?

 

Na the only track is about 1 1/2 hrs from here and belive me it suxs for traction. This weekend was a huge event with john force///exc. So ive been out there off and on since friday morning and literly got no sleep for the last few days.

Just going to data log a little today and see if I can turn up the boost a hair.

 

Kinda sounds like a cummins at the beginning.

 

Heres a datalogg and a video of it to match from this morning.

Car runs great. 0-60 on the street in 5 sec. And 0-100 in 11.77 sec. Went up to 117mph on this log.

The only thing that concerns me is how it shifts. Seems like since the turbo spools so fast now it will slip a little or the trans shifts softer. Is that from the added tq? And will the trans be ok till the winter doing this? Thanks


just a 0-100% tps WOT start, not boosted.

 

Yes

 

Love the text in the rear window nice job there, need to ask if the internals are original? and if not what modifications you have made to engine internals

 

Another logg for any that wants to look. I got the guts to turn up the boost finally. 15.5 psi was the command. So about 1.5 psi more then the posts above.

Im happy with this and else then some tweaking on the AE some more and smoothing the fueling, its good. Also the WG DC needs some tuning but it wasent rediculusly bad...

There is a DSM shootout this weekend at the track and theres a normal test in tune friday so I may go then.

Heres what I see on that log.

1. I cant shift from 1 to 2nd without spinning let alone when I floor it it spins delaying the boost then when it hooks right the boost hits hard.

2. Adding the boost clearly made the car faster as I took 2 logs and both showed faster 0-xxxmph times by a good amount.

3. The stats. 0-60 is still 5 sec but its on the street
0-80mph is on ave 7.75 seconds over 2 logs
0-90mph is on ave 9.23 seconds over 2 logs
0-100mph is on ave 11.25 seconds over 2 logs
0-105mph is on ave 12.26 seconds over 2 logs

The gain with the added 1.5psi

.35 seconds faster in the 0-80mph
.50 seconds faster in the 0-100mph
.80 seconds faster in the 0-105mph
I can't imagin another 1.5 psi, which would be 17.5psi.

So when you guys see this log be relistic here please, with traction and good temps such as today, am I dumb for thinking this car will easily punch into the 12's next time out???

 

Else then the valvetrain(cam, springs) the internals are all stock. Amazing hu? Ive been boosting it alot all this year and just took the heads off last week. No visible damage whatsoever. The trick is tuning(good afr's, meth injection, and absolutly no KR)

.....And did I mention some good ole luck

 

its the added tq time to invest in a shift kit for sure

 

its just the video camera it was filmed with on the dyno from certian angles it really sounded like one but if u watch the second video of the dyno shot with a different camera it dont sound like one at all

 

Dave, I had a feeling thats what was needed. Is this thing safe to make a pass or 2 on wednesday?? Tranny wise or is it a roll of the dice?

 

it should be fine

 

Alright. The tracks only open for about another month and a half so if she can hold off then thats what Im just gonna do and hope it doesnt die. The season is almost over. Ill probly only make it to the track 2-3 more times if im lucky.

The reason I brought it up is because I really wanted to turn up the boost some more as a additional 1.5 psi made a clear difference so I wanted to see what another psi would do. But considering the trans/convert is not liking the idea Ill just leave it like it is. 15.5-15.75 is where shes at now.

I just want one 12 sec pass for gods sake..lol

 

i say leave it as is and make a pass(s) then nextime u hit the track do it with the intercooler removed and see how much of a difference it makes.

be aware if the intercooler is as big of a rstriction as i think it is u will need to retune it when u remove it.

then for the last trip to the track run 18/20 psi and let her eat.

then over the winter u have time to make all the liittle fixes u need

 

I don't remember the crap we used on Dave's rear window when I wrote that just before his passes, but I remember it getting all over my shirt, all over Shawn's sneakers, and all over Paul's hands lmfao. It's amazing just how much your car resembles his though, I fooled a few MAGNA members with it already. Good luck reaching 12's...