Good luck Steve! Hopefully if you have any issues at all it will only be traction. I'm assuming you'll have the gopro running tomorrow. Can't wait to hear what happens.

 

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so u have 2 issues a fueling issue and a back pressure ex system related issue

bp issue is easy to take care of


what about the fuel pump what pump are u running again ?, maybe its time to install a -6 or -8 feed to the fuel rail and use the factory feed as a return line

 

Aeromotive Stealth 340lph. Should be good for 700hp at 60 psi. Definitely doing new fuel lines now.

 

Ever monitor pressure at the tank?. Based on info on the net you should be nearing 90 psi at 20a, at 40a you would want something like 8ga otherwise you would see the loss after a while. If you broke your best at a suboptimal 15 psi you have a long way to go down in et when you crank this.

 

That looked like a nice pass, glad to see you are sticking with it!

 

Time for a -8 feed and -6 return. Eliminate all frustration by ensuring you have capacity. Also consider dual 255's. overkill yes but should never disappoint you. Lol plenty of fuel so no more pressure loss. I have heard some negative things about the stealth pumps. They definately do not like high pressure, but you arent at the threshold yet

 

i had 2 areomotive 340 pumps go bad on me , my tripple zr-1 pump setup has been flawless , other then being a real pita to get in and out of the tank

 

good to see your making some progress

I would fix the fueling, and run the car with your full current exhaust before you cut it all up and spen time/money redoing it. There are plenty of people making big power on a free flowing 3" full length exhaust

 

Could also consider another brand 340 pump. Aero isnt the only one. Talk to lonniep on this forum for information

And didnt you say you dumped exhaust and immediately saw overboost errors? That to me is a major issue. Your wastegate control will be improved once you fix the exhaust issue. Too much backpressure there is forcing hotside to also be high in pressure. Same thing happened to me switching from single 4" to dual 3". Wastegate setting dropped 2 psi after change

 

Glad to hear you picked up some mph, but sorry about the pump issue. I've been running two Walboro's for about 3 yrs now with no issues, both pumps have their own hotwire kit I made the second harness myself.

 

i think the lines will straighten it out. as for exhaust, maybe a cutout in the downpipe? would still be quiet on the street, and flow more than a 4" at the track. and would weigh less than the 4" as well. and you would be less crowded around the driveshaft ad whatnot.

 

If that is true I agree a DP back change is probably beneficial, I read he was going to change the entire downpipe

The 3" should be fine to get out of the engine bay

 

Hell even just trying a straight pipe in leiu of muffler with the exhaust hooked up.

BTW, just wanted to say even if you think it was a failure, I will beg to differ. I would actually consider that a successful track outing because:
-You kept the car in 1 piece, and everyone went home alive
-you have a new best
-Not only did you find out there's a ton left in this setup, you found out what's likely the impediment that's been holding you back.
-You've got an idea or two what to try on the fuel system issues, although you're still having them.

Electrically, blowing a 40A fuse makes some sense. As mentioned since the power consumption is E^2/R if you bump up your voltage 25% you're going to add almost 50% more power consumption before any losses in the voltage booster. According to this link you're going to hit a bit over 20A at 60 PSI (numbers listed are 2 pumps.)

http://www.theturboforums.com/thread...-Stealth-pumps

Brett makes some comments about the feed lines in this post, I can PM him a link to this thread and see if he has any input if you'd like.

 

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Should be more pipe and muffler solutions in 4" at near 450-500 whp go 4"

 

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dual intank pumps in the stock tank , cut the return line off the top and drill the hole out for an -8 bulkhead fitting , in the tank plumb it to a barbed fitting and use a y to connect both pumps , use the factory feed line as the new return line since it works out to be a -6 just about

 

LS1 plastic tank is nice just order a new rubber line for the filler neck and the neck for an Fbody ls1 car and it slips on fine with hose clamps. Dual pumps fit the bucket well. Very easy to install. Just need the Y fitting for pumps into 1 outlet back up stock plastic line out of tank

NO need to worry about modding pump outlet. Mine comes out stock into a -6 to -8 conversion adapter fitting and runs -8 all way to motor, -6 return. 1018 whp thru the automatic. It has more left in it. That small neck down portion doesnt hurt much. Its too short to create any meaningful resistance.

You do gain a good bit of capacity by enlarging the stock lines to either a -8 or bigger hardline. Braided hose is easy to run and fit so I use that stuff for everything. Spend the money on teflon coated line, it will never smell like gas after years of use unlike regular grade braided hose. Larger lines will reduce pump head. Wont have to work as hard thus reducing heat of pump and increasing output. You dont need to run as high pressure to get equal fuel supply. As you can see in the fuel pump charts, pump output is greatly affected by pressure and voltages it sees.

 

I agree with both of these guys. I don't have experience with a 4th gen tank, but adding a bulkhead to the top of the tanks sending unit plate is easy to do. The small length of smaller line right after the pump shouldn't hurt it. Just like a fuse in a big long power cable. I also have teflon braided lines. Great stuff that should last forever. Kind of fun making them but it's worth it once you get it done. -8an supply and -6 return would work sweet and be a huge improvement. Not like you don't already know that.
I ran -8 supply and return line since I'm running a carb to make sure to keep the back pressure in the return line as low as possible so I can get the pressure down low. With my Stealth 340, with -8an supply and return lines I can turn my regulator down to pretty much zero psi, so I'd say a -6 return for efi would be plenty sufficient. If you go with 2 pumps, that may change a little but I doubt it would matter. I'm sure you've already done a lot of research on this and there is nothing new I'm telling you, but I guess it can't hurt.

Is the stock supply line 3/8 OD or ID?

 

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2 pumps is actually easy enought to get in the stock tank , after having to 340 pumps go bad on me im not to thrilled about them , but i am putting 2 in my tank when the new motor goes back in

by all rights a single 340 should be enough , i think i would lean twards a dual walboro setup , one on all the time the second pump turned on with a hobbs switch while under boost , this will help keep the fuel cool when cruising around


try reusing the stock feed as a return , if there is a line issue the only thing that will happen is ur base fuel presure will be high , so u will know right away if it will be an isssue or not , reusing the stock feed as a the return should save u a bit of money baring and actual line issues

btw if u do that dont forget to remove the fuel filter from that line

 

I would go with two walbro's, use whatever y-block you want to merge the two pumps in the tank. You could also view my home page and see how I did my pumps, it is the last photo I updated years ago. You'll see my y-block is nothing fancy just brass fittings from O'Reilly's. One more thing, make sure you have at least 1/3 tank of gas before you drop the tank because it helps to install the sending unit. The fuel level rod floats out of the way easing installation of the two pumps, just a hint. I am using a AN -6 adapter for my return line http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-670300/overview/ and a AN -6 for the supply line http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-640830/overview/ with a -6 to -8 coupler http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-640550/overview/ I am also using a Trickflow inline filter http://www.summitracing.com/search?keyword=tfs-23004. It works fine for me, so I don't see why it wouldn't work for your mods. I've gone 6.4x in the 1/8 @108 mph on one pump and many low 10's in the 1/4. Going braided lines is pricy but worth it when done right.

 

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If you are goin to build a sbc anymore it makes sense to go all out and get 4 digit power numbers. Anything less than that a budget lsx makes more sense. 1000hp and higher, both platforms need abit of money to be really reliable but lsx still has slight advantage as there are guys in that 1000 hp range doing it fairly reliably on stockish components.

I am happy with my build but cant help but wonder if i could have had similar numbers in a stock block iron lsx. For less investment

 

can also go my route and build a cheap high hp motor , but for most i would spend a lil more money on the rotating assembly then i did lol

 

I think you should stay Gen I at this point... but I've got a 5.3 for sale that will easily make the drive down there if you're interested.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/lsx-...tec-5-3-a.html

Hopefully the smoke is nothing serious.

 

I have been fighting the LSx/GenI thing for a few months now

IMO once you buy an aftermarket block and killer heads the genI and LSx stuff is all the same, the genI may actually have the $$ advantage at that point. I mean as long as the bottom end stays together, the only difference is the heads/intake

 

I went through the same thing. Re-did a complete LT1 Tubular headers, modified a single plane to fit, wired it for megasquirt to find some scoring on the block. So I needed 0.040 pistons, which I was fine with. Then my builder sent the crank out and it had a hairline crack. Sold all my LT1 stuff and went and built a 6.0LS.

I am currently working on a 4.8L ls6 cam 4l80e for my new camaro. Not even looking at the bottem end and letting it eat. Should only have $3-4K into the setup with the turbo setup. Thats everything from trans-fuel-etc. Been lurking for sweet deals and jumping on them

Good luck on whichever route you go!

Jay

 

There goes another one to the dark side LOL!!!

 

i would keep what you have. i think it is extremely cool, and if you put an ls in there you'll lose some of that. everybody has a fast ls car now, but nobody has a fast tpi car. i would keep it looking somewhat stock, even with the exhaust and wheels just like you have it now. 2 tunes, one for street, one for track with good fuel, high boost, and cutout open.
making big power (800+) will require you to change the whole car up. 9" or 12 bolt, th400/4l80e, more chassis mods, huge exhaust, etc.

just fix the fuel system and get the exhaust flowing. up the boost some more, and enjoy another 100 hp. should be well into the 6's at that point, right? not bad for driving to and from the track with a/c and a TPI!

 

Well said my friend. All to often I hear "I'm going LS to make power" just because they can't make power with the correct era components. I'm not hating on LS, you can say I'm old school and there is nothing wrong with keeping up with today's technology, but if I want an LSX I would buy a car of that era. Plus you would loose the Wow effect when you pop the hood because the LS swap is so common now a days they wouldn't suspect to see a TPI or any other 1 gen old school tech under the hood. Drive it like you stole it fellas! I'm going turbo very soon and I'll post pics of my progress just stacking parts. And I want to give thanks to all the members on this forum especially ZZ3Asrto and Orr for their ingenuity and craftsmanship. I know they're others too, but don't give up on 1-2 gens technology yet.

 

The issues with an LS at this point are not just of money, but of time. Think about this:

1)You have to engineer the engine swap and figure out the pan, accessories etc.
2)You have to rebuild headers again. Even if it's some stock modified truck manifolds
3)You have to fix the problems you're having with your gen 1 anyways. Even if the engine is totally hosed changing to LS won't fix the peripheral issues like the exhaust and fuel. You'll still have to consume time on that.

Even if you have to take the long block to the machine shop, have it dropped off and worked over it's going to be something that's not nearly as time consuming as an LS because you'll come home and throw it right back in the same way it came out and not really have to figure anything out. Throw some H-beams and slugs in it. If you want to be paranoid do a 4 bolt block conversion on your original block and throw the new parts in, then steal the heads off your current engine and shove the whole mess in. If you have some time take a grinder to the TPI and look for a set of runners at a good deal.

If this were a deal where you didn't have headers I'd consider the LS very strongly. Just hard when you've got that big of time commitment for the headers.

 

I'm with these guys, I think you should keep the Gen I for now, especially since it seems like you've got several of your issues figured out.

I've had the LS vs Gen I debate with myself a LOT lately since I built my turbo setup. I solved the debate by buying a 412 CI shortblock built with a Dart SHP block LOL! The LS stuff can make incredible power cheap, but if you've already got a bunch of stuff setup for the Gen I it really is a lot of work to make everything work with the LS.

If I was starting from scratch I would probably go LS (Although I am pretty bored of seeing them in EVERYTHING! But the SBC has been in EVERYTHING forever too LOL!) But I'm sticking with the Gen I for now, and I would encourage you to also

Looking forward to seeing how the exhaust and fuel system changes work for you, and I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the smoking is something minor!!

-Paul

 

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if u end up going into the motor to make some killer power may i suggest the same heads i just bought , they are copys of dart pro 1 platnuims , and flow 260cfm out of the box , can be ported to over 300 cfm

they are 400 bare shipped to ur door








bolting a set of those on out of the box with an hsr would probably be a 200 hp gain over what u have now

the tpi intake just and i mean just seals up on the intake ports if u wanted to keep the tpi i would weld up the base to get a lil more sealing in the boosted application, but then again keeping the tpi on it with those heads would kill power potential off a good bit

personally im going with a vortec hsr on mine, u could do the vortec tpi base but thats 500 bucks for the base , and a votec hsr is 100$'s cheaper from jegs or summit , well actually 50 bucks cheaper once u buy the procomp fuel rails , the holley rails are what 250 bucks ?


lets just say 700 for heads by the time u put valves springs guideplates etc in them ( then again u sprolly already have good locks retianers and springs , so u would be looking at cost for + .100 valves , + studs and guideplates
and another 450 ish for an hsr

so ur talking 1150.00 to make some killer power , 3-500 cheaper then a set of afrs and with a set of afrs u would still have to shell out for a intake

 

I would say get yours done first and see how it works out. When it holds up and runs great, then I would say cheap high hp motor is possible. But I dont believe a high hp reliable motor is doable on basic cheap parts... only factory LSX motors seem to do it often and even then I wouldnt want to take them over 800 whp to much. But I am curious to see your results.

 

i went the ultra cheap route , im sure mine is going to have some reliability issues , but if i had spent some more money on the bottom end im sure it would be plenty reliable , my weak link is going to be the gm cast crank , and since i only have the crank installed in the block right now im debating on picking up a forged crank real fast

i had a gm forged crank but turns out its twisted and doesnt run true across the mains , thats why i ended up sticking my cast crank in it

for the money i spent im willing to gamble a lil bit though, hell marty went damn close to 8 second passes on the 2 bolt completely cast bottom end

this engine is more of a test mule though , i have intentions of swaping the shortblock down the road , i wanna switch up to a roller block that i have , problme is theres no trustworthy machine shops in my area

i was going to go retrofit roller on this wngine but the retro rollers are to heavy to do anything serious with

 

those procomp heads can make great power- once their problems have been addressed and ported/valve jobb'd. i wouldnt say out of the box, though.

 

these arent the procomps , completly different casting
http://www.1320techtalk.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2256

out of the box numbers on intake

pro comps flow for crap at low lift , and are way down on flow in mid to high lift compared to these

 

what name are they sold under? havent read anything about these yet... look good

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/380500512416...84.m1497.l2649

they can be had with stright or angle plugs , i got angled

thats the only place to get them that i know of , chad may know how to get them directly from the importer if hes willing to share that info

 

Those look alot like the pro header sbc castings which i heard are good castings for an import casting

http://www.proheader.com/Cylinder%20heads.html

 

they came in proheader boxes, i googles proheader when i got them but couldnt tell if proheader was the maker or just a reseller

 

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u can cut the heads i linked to down to 58 or 54cc's i cant recall which though

 

the dart shp will go to 1200hp pretty reliably. there is plenty of people doing it with them, and the little m will go to 2000 or so.

the 6.0 block will begin to show issues around 1200 or so. some have made up to around 1500 with them.

 

X2 i have heard this as well. So if you were going for 1000whp plus which is north of 1150-1200 crank, a lsx vs sbc starts evening out in cost. I think both types need forged internals at that point. Blocks are starting to get iffy at that point for the ls. Lsx blocks arent cheap either

 

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