I was recommended the cloyes double roller by someone who used it in their 383 pushing 600hp, I don't see the need for a billet timing set if his has held up for 4 years without issue. It's not like you can see how shiny it is through the timing cover anyway.

 

Y the hell does it matter what parts I put in MY motor not urs ? If I wanna put 1500$ pistons in a 300$ motor that's my choice so blow me .. like I said I didn't skimp on anything ! And if his lasted 4 years w 600hp then I shouldn't have to worry about mine for awhile huh ? .. and with a 150 shot IMA b pushin around 500hp with a 305 .. which is gonna be in a lot more strain than a 500hp 468cu.in.BB

Sent from my XT907 using IB AutoGroup

 

Why do you feel the need to be argumentative and post something when I was asking the OP a genuine question? saying "why not?" is no better than saying "because I can." I asked the OP because I thought that maybe he knew something I didn't, wasn't trying to start anything, not sure why you are.

 

u r the one acting like I'm retarded for choosing a better part than u used

91' firebird .. 305 TBI .030 over , balanced bottom end , speed pro hyper flattops , 10.6:1 CR , all ARP rod bolts and main studs , melling HV oil pump , trick flow super 23 175cc heads, Howards HR 214/218@.050 .488/.495 lift on 114 LSA , full roller 1.6 RR = .520/.528 lift , summit dual plane intake port matched , shorty headers into 2.5" Y w full 3" flow master system and 3" cutout in front of axle , msd billet dizzy, 620cfm TBI , custom CAI , tubular adjustabke LCA pan hard , umi torque arm wonder bar , BMR trans cross member , COMP engineering SFC's, disc rear w 4.10's, drilled an slotted rotors, EBL flash , VRFPR, WBO2,

 

So, do you always walk up to 2 people having a conversation and interrupt? Or do you only do that online? I honestly don't give 2 ***** about what's in your car, I was asking about the OP, not yours. I didn't know common courtesy wasn't taught to children anymore.

 

U started this **** retard .. u were saying that why do I need billet set and I Told u y .. then u proceeded to say it was pointless in a stock lo3 which I replied that it was not stock .. so how am I interrupting ur conversation when u were talking **** to me ? Hmm ? And I was referring a part and a price to the op not u so u got itself involved in my conversation

91' firebird .. 305 TBI .030 over , balanced bottom end , speed pro hyper flattops , 10.6:1 CR , all ARP rod bolts and main studs , melling HV oil pump , trick flow super 23 175cc heads, Howards HR 214/218@.050 .488/.495 lift on 114 LSA , full roller 1.6 RR = .520/.528 lift , summit dual plane intake port matched , shorty headers into 2.5" Y w full 3" flow master system and 3" cutout in front of axle , msd billet dizzy, 620cfm TBI , custom CAI , tubular adjustabke LCA pan hard , umi torque arm wonder bar , BMR trans cross member , COMP engineering SFC's, disc rear w 4.10's, drilled an slotted rotors, EBL flash , VRFPR, WBO2,

 

It's pretty clear you were posting it in reference to my comment. I mentioned my part and price and then immediately after you mention yours. Get your ego checked and stop cluttering up the OP's thread.

 

Who cares what I referenced I was not talking to u I was posting nother option for the op not u... and u are the very first person ive ever had an Argument with on this forum since I've been on it so mabey u should check yours.. and if u would stop arguing with me like a 13 year old girl on her period I wouldn't b cluttering HIS thread which u r also doing the same thing .. so once again stfu

91' firebird .. 305 TBI .030 over , balanced bottom end , speed pro hyper flattops , 10.6:1 CR , all ARP rod bolts and main studs , melling HV oil pump , trick flow super 23 175cc heads, Howards HR 214/218@.050 .488/.495 lift on 114 LSA , full roller 1.6 RR = .520/.528 lift , summit dual plane intake port matched , shorty headers into 2.5" Y w full 3" flow master system and 3" cutout in front of axle , msd billet dizzy, 620cfm TBI , custom CAI , tubular adjustabke LCA pan hard , umi torque arm wonder bar , BMR trans cross member , COMP engineering SFC's, disc rear w 4.10's, drilled an slotted rotors, EBL flash , VRFPR, WBO2,

 

the reason the belt drive is better is timing is more stable, and it does not transfer any harmonics up into the valve train

years ago before belt drives and even today guys used to run composite and plastic timing gears with a chain to help cut back on the harmonics. hell i even have a few of those gears laying around somewere

 

Maybe you gentleman can take this to PM instead of hijacking a perfectly good thread. I was looking forward to updates to this build, but was disappointed by the lack of useful information in the last few posts.

 

Don't belts usually stretch a lot easier than chains? I don't know about a wet setup, but I know the dry setups do. I thought roller valvetrains soaked up a lot of those vibrations?

 

i shouldnt say a belt stops the transfer of all harmonics , theres still some
yes a belt can wear out faster,and requires maintenance.

this will be my first time using a wet belt setup so we will see how it goes , like i said i paid a fraction of its cost so for that cheap im willing to give it a go

 

Who makes those headers?

 

which ones the log style ones or the up and fowards that ill be using?

 

The forward facing ones you plan to use

 

cx racing on ebay

 

really? lol nice, may look into those myself, thanks for helping

 

if u get a pair i would email them the ad says 2.5 inch vbands but the picture sure looks like 3 inch

i havent ordered mine yet , its the next thing on my parts list right after the last few parts i need for the hsr

 

i was thinking i may want a 3in cross over depending on my route...was thing either a t4 76/78mm or a t6 80mm

 

just ordered a pair of gt3582's, new turbo flanges , bunch of 3 inch mandrel bends for the dual 3 inch downpipes , and im debating on ordering a 2 in and single out inter cooler so i can redo all the charge piping

i still need to come up with a manual steering box and manual brake conversion so i have room to run the downpipes out the fenders behind the front tires


sigh... the more i work on this thing the more it becomes a track only car, before i know it ill be hanging some fiberglass doors and front end on it

 

quick update

im heading over tonight to work on the car . were preping the engine bay tonight for paint, if the prep work goes fast enough hopefully we can spray the engine bay tonight , if not ill spray the engine bay tommorow , and then the following weekend we r going to drop the engine back in

 

Stop your stalling, get that engine in there....

 

What he said! Lol. Can wait to see it in and running!

 

im taking ,my time with it the car is gettig a nice paint job this spring so i want the engine bay paint to look nice as well

even if i dropped the engine in today i wouldnt be able to fire it , im still waiting on a few misc parts to arrive

that and im hesitating wondering if i shouldnt upgrade the camshaft, when i picked out the summit 224/224 cam i had the intentions of running a gm cast iron head and the tpi. with the new heads and hsr intake im thinking i could benifit greatly from a larger cam or swaping to a roller cam with alot more lift to take advantage for the good heads

i traded my friend some of my old parts for a new ms harness so i could redo all the wiring in the car ,the premade harnes si got with my ms unit was a total pos and has been hacked up a million times

 

The bigger the better, go for it.

 

Too much emphasis being placed on the cam Dave. Was talking to Paul last night going over your setup, and he thinks your overdoing it. Even if your shooting for 8's, there are guys going that fast and faster with less, unless your into a lot of cam, of course. Either way, get her done and have fun doing it...

 

ur probably right with the parts i have, and twin 61mm turbos i shoudl have no problems making enough power as it is

my biggest concern is actually if the stealth ram will have any air distribution issues at high boost

 

btw not sure if u saw these or the other thread so ill post them here

 

Does MS have individual cylinder correction?

Edit: That engine looks sweet as hell...

 

yeah its got some nice parts in it for sure

no i downgraded from a ms2 to ms1 when i thought my ms2 cpu went bad, i can still switch back to ms2 as i still have the cpu

in the near future i will upgrade to ms3 pro and have sequential and ind cyl fuel/spark control

 

Since MS1/2 has two drivers then you could run 4 injs at different cals. I am surprised MS still doesn't have it. Easy to add. Some of the GM ECMs OBD1 have two drivers and you can use it for fuel distribution changes. Run 4 inj in the richer holes, and 4 in the leaner holes.

Or just run all 8 as rich as leanest hole needs and deal with slight power loss.

 

ms does does do that u just have to run duel table

 

Install a bung for wideband in number 1 or 2 primary and in number 7-8. Do a back to back pull on lower boost to check whats going on. That was my concern when i built my motor and i convinced myself to switch to single plane and been very happy

 

doesnt the backpresure and heat kill the sensor?

i was thinking about doing a couple egt probes and logging them with the megasquirt

 

Depends on the sensor. The Bosch sensors will eventually fail being that close, but then again you'd only be using it as a test, not long term. The XFI wideband sensor in my vette was designed to be that close though. Don't forget though Dave, they sell housings that the Bosch sensors screw into first, then the housing screws into the bung, to allow for the Bosch sensors to live being that close, just need to clock the housing the right way otherwise you'll get an innacurate reading...

 

Under boost the sensor will overheat and not be accurate. The controller will not be able to control the heat and get a proper reading. NA is a possible for a little while.

 

pushrods are sitting at the post office ill pick them on lunch break today,
need to order up some felpro 1206 or 1266 intake gaskets , thos ei can just get at my local napa

also picked up 100 each grams cobalt blue, and silver pearl powder ,and got a ton of .015 blue metal flake

the blue pearl gets mixed in with the black base so the car looks black but shows up blue under sunlight/light


the silver will be used for some ghost stripes and lettering , and then i may spray the entire car with the flake , or instead of ghost stripes and lettering i may just do some stripes in metal flake

ill be experimenting on the old iroc hood for the next few days to see how the different ideas come out

 

I guess it depends on egt, pressure and sensor used. I know people have done this with no issues. It is only short term to get a quick distribution reading. Else do it the old fashioned way with plug reading

I've had my bosch 9-10" from turbine exit and it seemed fine for few years. I've had the first 2-3" of downpipe glowing red before

 

intake came in , this thing has enough meat to be ported to a 1207 gasket , my heads are just under a 1206.
the wieand would need a lil bit of welding to be ported to a 1206.
so either way i have a ton of room to grow with this set of heads and intake







engine bay is getting painted tommorw and on sunday ill button the engine up then next weekend we should be firing the engine up

 

Wow Dave, that looks incredible! I wish our 455 looked like that, lol.

I'd love to have that Kawasaki behind it

 

started to mount up my acessories n stuff so i could lay out the new turbosystem



other then that my first attempt at laying down a pearl basecoat in the engine bay was a total disaster

of course it didnt help that the color pearl i picked is one of the hardest to spray even for a good painter, were as i have a tiny bit of experiance and its mostly spraying primers

 

im finally within 30 days of the car being done
the engine goes back into the car this weekend
next weekend i touch up some body work on the car
on april 4th my new 4 inch hood gets here
april 7th the car goes into the body shop for paint
april 18th the car is being hauled down to las vegas motor speedway for some test hits , and on the 19th the car gets dynoed (weather will be a factor on this one)

 

Waiting patiently for your numbers Dave, already know what mine runs, tee hee...

 

wont be long now , im just hoping the body shop wont have the car for more then 2 days , i need a bunch of time to get a base tune down before i tow the car out

 

hit a snag with getting the motor in the car , the plan was to reuse my old turbo system till after the car gets painted and ten swap over to the new headers and gt3582's

well my old headers no longer fit as u can see in the pics , i need to cut the wastegate tubes and move them , not a big deal but we had no gas for the welder.
so next weekend i will fix the headers and drop the engine in , and also build the parachute mount






work may slow down on the car though now that i have a 2 wheeled transportation

 

If you can make it out this way.....


https://www.facebook.com/#!/events/5...ilter=upcoming


Bunch of folks from LV Buicks are renting a lane at LVMS, I plan on being there.

 

that should work for me as long as i dont run into anymore issues putting the car back together

btw u got any names of shops with dynos down there so i can start making some phone calls

 

Well I know of one so far, Voodoo Racing. Ill ask around within the next couple of days.

 

thanks

 

do you have details in a thread somewhere (I've been woefully behind reading stuff here...)?