Fwiw, I would swap the 80s back in there as well. This engine might not even be able to max them out.

 

im going to do what i can to stay witht he 120's first ,i can live with a 1,300 rpm idle if i have to ,nor do i expect a full lean idle , as long as its not loading up with fuel or fouling plugs when idling ill be ok with it . this way i dont have to drive to the track swap injectors , and then swap back when im done racing

if the 120's work on gas it will be as simple as drive the car to the track, fill it up with e85 and let the megasquirt switch over to e85 tune and run it , then fill back up with gas at the end of the night.

the ms can adjust the tune depending on the amount of ethaniol in the fuel with the flex fuel sensor so that parts is all handled automatically even if i mix gas and e85 , just like a factory flex fuel car/truck

 

keep playin with it, they might straighten up for ya. i would definitely like to hear the results either way.

 

Thats what she said! Lol just kidding. Hope you get that thing running good Dave. I finally got my collector leaks taken care of, though now I can hear a couple exhaust manifold leaks.

 

13.2-1 afr at idle with a lil more room to lean it out , wont be able to lean it out much more though it likes to die in gear if i lean it out to much, prolly needs some more ignition advance

now i need a exhaust system solution to keep it quite , im either going to do dual 3 inch with bullets , or a 4 inch single with a spintech muffler

 

any reason you cant get it to idle at 14.7:1?

 

wont idle in gear if i lean it out much more almost seems like the converter is a bit to tight and its pulling the motor down to low , more ignition advance might fix that though, im stuck at work now so ill work on it some more tomorrow morning

im going to work on it some more i usually have my cars idling in the 15.5-16.5 range

 

Whats the advance? Big cams like tons of advance at idle

Also dual 3" is better than 4" single for big power. Also more flexibility for sound control. More mufflers and easier to package

 

iirc i have 28* at idle right now ill have to check when i get back home

 

IMHO Dave that is way too much, I am at 22* with a similar size cam in a much smaller displaced engine and she is idling happily at 900-RPM. I would bring your idle SA back down and keep your focus on tuning the Injector Bias. Also, are you running your idle off of the IAC, or by cracking the throttle plate open?

 

How lean can you idle down tho? 22 deg is about what stock cammed cars run at 600 rpm. If trans is loading it down, advance will help bring up torque against converter in gear. But maybe it just needs more ve vs kpa tuning to keep it stabile

 

my 350 idled nicely at 1k rpms with 32 degrees. 236/248 hydro roller.
i think my LS1 would idle at 16-17:1 with a 233/239 cam? 36# injectors tho.

 

no iac
i was able to lean it out into the 14's could go just a little more but it kept stalling

i think 32-36* at idle is going to be the magic number for this combo
be intersesting to see what switching to a smaller lighter converter does for me as well , currently have 12 inch 2500-2800 in it going to swap it out for a 10 inch around 3,600

ill find out for sure this weekend im to busy at work to make it to the shop during this week to work on it anymore , what lil free time i do have after work ive been working on my turbo dirtbike project

 

There's your problem. How do you introduce more air down low to compensate for 120# injectors with only a fixed amount of air coming through a cracked throttle blade with no IAC valve? An IAC will help stabilize your air/fuel ratio down low because it will increase the amount of air coming in, working in conjunction with how far open you set your throttle plate. Doesn't your Megasquirt have full control of an IAC?

 

im using an ms1 cpu for now doesnt support the stepper iac, dont need it either i just go back and forth adjusting fueling and throttle plates till i get it were i want it.

same principle as a carb car

 

Same principle as a carbed car if the carbed car were running triple the amount of fuel pressure needed while trying to jet it down to behave on the street. I guess we have two completely different methods of tuning fuel injection. My idle RPM is now down to 850 with the throttle plate barely even open, no drilling, and no TPS adjustment, just followed Bob Rauscher's method. IAC air flow has no real relationship with the VE table from what I can see. Anyways, your obviously content with tuning it like a carb, best of luck with the project,...

 

what would you do if the engine was too large for the iac passage? drill/open blades to add the additional flow, or is there some other method? (just curious)
the thing about adjusting the blades like that is the constant tps change/readjustment, no?

 

2 mouse clicks will reset my tps without having to touch the sensor
i dont actually even need a tps for the car to run properly since its a speed density system , with my tunning options

all of my acceleration enrichment is done based on rate of change of the map sensor instead of tps , which is really usefull when u have quick spooling turbo combo

the only thing i need the tps for is flood clear mode , anything over 85% open during cranking will shut down the injectors, for me tps is basically used just for datalogging

and if i want i can do tps based boost control

 

im going to have to stick bullets on it , atleast if i get pulled over for noise it will look like i tried to keep it quiet, mufflers arent required here but i already know my car is excessivly loud
right now i have open downpipes that exit behind the front tires , im going to extend them to rear axle with bullets and turn downs


going to miss the flames out the side of the car when on the launch control/antilag though

 

its a toy good street manners went out the window a long time ago, i havent used an iac on any of my cars and they all idle good

 

I personally drill idle hole like stock tb's have. Stock ls1 tb does it this way. I adjust blade opening for idle rpm desired and if adjustable tps i reset it. If you cant get iac counts down, this usually helps

 

There is always the PWM idle method for MS. Could use an old egr solenoid as the PWM sol and connect elec to MS F_idle and the rubber line to the intake.

Good thing you told that guy that the TPS is adjustable on a TPI TB or he would be doing the same thing.

 

Would you mind posting a few pics of the setup that runs to the rear? I'm trying to figure out what I want to do with my exhaust. Thanks.

 

sure it wont be for a lil while though as im not to sure on when i will get the ex system squared away on the car

plan is to bring the car home this weekend
take it back for final primer and primer sealer next weekend
and then either take it to the body shop for paint the follwing weekend or start on the rear swap

in all honesty theres only 2 maybe 3 ways to do a true dual ex system one pipe on each side or squeeze both pipes down the passenger side and up and over the rear.

if u do a pipe on each side theres basically only one place to put the pipe on the driver side,

 

I was planning on a y-pipe to a single, since I've still got the stainless steel catback from when the 305 was in my car, the stock y-pipe and manifolds were still on the car, but didn't clear the 350's oil pan, so I got headers. I'm mostly trying to decide on if I want to have the ypipe made to follow the stock routing, or go somewhere else with it. It will ultimately be up to the shop though, considering I don't have a means to bend pipe or weld it...unfortunately...I've still got things to do with my car, so you've got plenty of time to get pics lol. We're at about the same stage in our builds, I just got mine drivable today for the first time in a year.

 

well i still havent touched the car went out riding today again and about damn near hit a truck head on , ended up driving into and crashing in the ditch and breaking 2 fingers . so might be a lil while before i finish up the last few odds and ends on it

 

might be a good idea to give up on motorcycles.

 

 

+3, lol.

Dave bikes dont seem to like you very much. I should have mine fired up again later today, ill work on a vid for everyone. Got plenty of ammo, err, *cough* beer in the fridge to keep me going. Though I probably wont be driving it tonight if I have too many, which I probably will, lol.

 

part of the problem is i havent ridden since i was a kid , and the 2 friends i ride with are very good riders , they do the desert races .
when we go riding im always trying to play catch up and pushing myself alot harder then i should, or if by chance i can get out ahead of them im trying to stay there

i have some video to upload later were we go riding isnt exactly easy to ride even for somone whos been riding a long time
next week if im up for it were going to go out to the motox track
on a side not im fine on motorcycles and street bikes , i dont do anything stupid or past my limits on them , put me on a dirtbike and i turn into a fearless idiot , ive gota stop that

my friend i was riding with was nice enough to work on the car for me after i went home , he about wraped up the car for me , only thing left i need to do id trim the underside of the hood now so it clears my throttle body, and run the rerfrencce lines for the wastegates and then she is ready to come home

ill prolly head over on monday and do that

 

Hey project89, I have been looking for a color for my 70 Chevelle and I came across your thread with the black with blue pearl that was on the nova. Your thread ended without any updated pics. Any chance you have some current pics. I'd love to see how it turned out and if you don't mind could you give the recipe. Thanks for your help.

 

car still hasnent been painted , i ende dup buying some midnight blue pearl paint from thecoatingstore ill get some pics up soon as it gets painted though .

i do have some pictures of the piant on anothe rcar and the sample posted a few pages back in this thread though

 

Very cool, I was looking at the midnight pearl also. If you want to see another badass color google Jesse James 51 merc. It's called sapphire blue diamond crystal. I really like the flip flop of that nova you were using as inspiration before. I want something that looks black until the light hits it. Good luck with your build, hopefully my Chevelle gets back from interior soon. He told me 2 months a lil over a year ago. here's where I'm at, still considering going back and painting it though. http://s1265.photobucket.com/user/jj...tml?sort=6&o=0

 

i know i keep saying it but this wekend it should be done , every weekend for the past few weeks ive gone out riding instead of working on the car.
well last weekend i broke 2 fingers so i doubt im going riding this weekend.should be headed over in a few hours to go finish up the car , only thing left to do is cut 2 holes in the cowl of the hood for my oil and fuel presure gauges , notch the underside of the hood in one place for clearance , and remake the passenger side downpipe , when i tipped the wastegate mount over on the header it now crashes into the downpipe

 

shes comming home tonight , need to figure out why the trans wont go into park , and get the wastegates bolted back on

 

Nice Dave. Cant wait to see this thing at the strip!

 

very soon

 

nice progress.....im working on my hard cold start issue....once fired it will start up fine all day

 

thanks she is road worthy again, and is a beast on motor alone, just gota hook the intercoole rup now and shes done , ive also gota finish my custom drag race/car show hood


what issues are u having on cold start ?

 

cranks for a long time before it catches....i played with the cranking pulse a little bit wont know if its better untill tomorrow........had too much fun driving around for a bit this evening and laying some second gear rolling burnouts

 

yeah cold start is a pain in the butt caus eu get one shot at it then u have to wait a while, eventually u will get it

 

Yeah i hate coldstarts. Usually need alot of fuel compared to warm starts.

If it doesnt start immediately but does after two or three cold cranks then it is to lean. If it doesnt start on several tries, but does when you hold pedal all way down after the several crank tries, then too rich as pedal down is clear flood mode

 

lost the cam , switching to something a lil tammer

 

Watcha got in there?

My favorites:

218/218/110
220/220/112

 

232/236 with xe lobes , still have the 224/224 but its seriously lacking in the lift dept specially with my cyl heads

i knew before hand the cam may cause issues and it bit me in the butt.
should have stayed away from the xe lobes and high lift , cant say i wasnt warned though

i think im going to give delta a call and see what i can get

 

Yeah you dont need a giant cam for turbo builds. I ran a 233 in a 400" motor. I wouldnt want it in a 350. My new setup however is a 246. Its big but 400" does good job swallowing it up. Given the rpm range its similar to a 350 with a 230-234 ish cam. That and the .96 housings is likely why my car doesnt want to be below 5k rpm lol. 5-7k its in boost and is a tyrannosaur lol below its touch lazy

 

im just afraid ill be leaving a whole lot of power on the table with the summit 224/224 with not even .490 lift
now if i could get a 224/224 with .600+ lift with a 1.5 rocker id be happy hell id be happy with .550 ish lift and throw a set of 1.6's on it

loved the idle of the 232/236

 

I dont think it will be a huge difference. Nothing 1 more lb of boost cant make up. I would go for more valvetrain stability and reliability. Old magnum high lift lobes however can get you what you want with brutalizing valvetrain to much. Hyd roller lobe that is which i think thats what you were refering to

 

yeah more then likley i will have to goto a roller setup to get the high lift, current block would need retrofit rollers which i wouldnt trust due to being so heavy , i plan on turnning some rpm with this thing

i do have a roller block but i would have to send it to the machine shop to have it preped and bored/honed so i can reuse my current pistons in it
honestly im more then likley going to pull the engine tear it down clean it well and throw the summit cam in it so i can have the car back for the weekend , shouldnt be much damage as we caught the cam going flat soon as the car started to run funny

 

With those heads, I see you going roller in the future. I would put the 224 summit cam in it for now.

I finally decided my next build will be vortec block based (roller) or LS cast iron based. Still waiting for one of my current setups I have run since 2006 to come apart before I switch over.

If you pick up a cam close to what you want then Delta can machine it. The way I did it was to run the numbers taking a max thickness of .025" off the cam. That is, you need a cam that is "close" to what you actually want as a base cam to machine.
The LT4 Hot Cam would probably make a good base for what you want if you could find one cheap enough.