i have yet to see one of there hoods or spoilers on a car so i figured as much , the pictures do make them look nice though

 

their prices are nice....but i've yet to see cheap carbon fiber worth a damn.

 

yeah im going to pass 450$ is alot to gamble on something that is prolly junk

 

Get your hood and spoiler Carbon Fiber Wrapped !!! .....?????

 

haha yeah not happening

 

got a new block going to the machine shop , things are taking a turn to be seriously badass , i think the current motor is going to find its way into a 2wd silverado 1500 since i havent had any luck in finding an s10 that i like in my area that isnt way over priced

 

Not trying to knock you here or anything but why? You have yet to even make a pass with this one and now you are gonna take it apart? Seems very counter productive?

 

im not taking it apart, it will take a while to get this new engine together , ill prolly run all this year the way the car is now before i have the new engine the way i want it and ready to go in.

ive got another project im going to be starting so it works out well since i need an engine for it

 

im ready for spring already , supposed to snow all this week

 

Send snow here man.

 

haha i wish i could , but we should have a good summer this year we are already +24 inches of water up int he mountians this year so should be a good year for the farm

on a side not i think im going to drag the snowmobiles out today


the crappy thing is i want to drive my car but i wont take it out with snow on the ground , way to many ppl who cant drive in the snow out here or who think since they have 4wd they dont have to change the way they drive

 

wanted to update this , ive got alot of big things happening with the car now, new turbo, need to build a new downpipe/ex system ( though im not sure what to do with that as the new turbo takes a 5 inch downpipe , i may shrink it to 4 right off the turbo and them merge that into dual 3 inch to make routing the pipes easier ) , some carbon fiber stuff .
and last but not least i am not happy with the fti converter it seems like it never couples , not sure what im going to do there yet

ill get pictures up as i get closer to installing the new parts and changing some things , shouldnt be long as ibelive the track opens back up in mid feb

 

how can you tell the converter isnt "coupling"? it being an fti, i would scoot that on down the list until you have ran the car some at least.

 

X2 why change now when you havent even run the thing yet

 

....and if its a 4500 stall, it may seem aggressive compared to what you have had in the past. or the trans could be slipping?

 

its just one of those things were it doesnt feel right ,i might just be used to the 4500 in my other car . ill see what happens after the turbo swap how it does

 

Feel has nothing to do with it lol you need data.

What turbo now? Not sure why you need to change when your current one is plenty to break the block

 

ur right though i may not just be used to the fti it just seems way to loose to me , compared to the restalled tci ssf i have in the other car which goes 4,500 on the noose.if the snow holds off this week ill go out and do some dataloging since the roads are just finally starting to clear up decently and ill be able to get a lil more agressive on it

s480 , its always been the plan if u read back in the thread, the t4/76 was supposed to be a street only turbo , i was going to use an adapter to swap between the t6 and t4 turbos between the street and the track but im just going to stick with the t6

 

Was it an off the shelf converter or did they take all your info and build it? Most shelf stuff isnt intended to go behind a power adder combo.

 

Getting your current setup dialed in with some datalogging sounds like a great idea before making changes to anything in the setup. I think you need some baseline info. You mentioned that you ultimately plan to swap this motor into something else, when that happens it would be nice to know what it will handle. Taking it to a dyno would be time and money well spent after you get the based tune close for the same reason.

 

bought it from somone else who had it build for a very similar combo and never used it
only problem with a dyno is the nearest one is about a 3 hour drive each way , which also means towing the car incase of breakage when its turned up , not exactly cheap

 

This game aint cheap at this level. Gotta pay to play lol

You have enough straight roads and a wideband to get the tune very close. Infact thats all i prefer doing. I only dyno to see a number and look for issues like fuel pressure drop, engine or tranny fluid leaks, listen for noises in valvetrain, and look at power curve for valvefloat or spark issues and then if alls well, find a shift point

My dyno tune is a seperate file compared to my track/street tune. My 93 oct file is way different than my vp110 gas tune.

Dyno isnt a waste of time, its a good tool because at somepoint big power is hard to hook on street and 150+ mph is abit out of the question. I can only tune up to 25-26 psi on a good day before traction becomes 50/50. 26-30 psi is done at the track

 

i would try to get it on a dyno too, for reasons listed above.
converter- there is just soooo many variables that will affect stall speed. torque, gear ratio, tire size, transmission gearing, car weight, etc... if it doesnt work out right in your car, you can always have it reworked. i think its around $300. if the guy had the converter built for a 1k hp turbo car, it is probably a 9" and was about $900 new.

as orr said, gotta pay to play. lol

 

its an 8.5 or 9inch , lol dang thing is tiny , dang snow didnt hold off it jst started comming down a lil while ago , so looks like ill have to wait till about the second week in jan as thats when our weather starts to get milder again

 

quad compound ? lol



some big winter upgrades comming

 

so now i have to figure out how to run the downpipe dont have room for a 5 inch , so im thinking i have 2 options

#1 reduce downpipe to 4 inch and run it out the side like i currently have with some oval tubing were it goes under the fender to retian some ground clearance

#2 5 inch 90 off the turbo pointed down and split it into 2x 3 or 3.5 inch pipes one out each side


getting it to the back of the car wont happen unless i spend the money for a tubular kmember and control arms , and to be honest im not thrilled about tubular control arms on a street car specially with some of the roads here

 

should just leave it alone and spend some time getting the bugs worked out of your existing combo.

 

theres nothing to work out the ptrimed t76 was never intended to stay , it the street turbo nothing more

 

Tune, chassis, state of motor condition/break in, check for leaks, etc. theres alot to work out

 

i was getting at leaving it alone with the other turbo , the break in went well , 2 minor leaks to take care of, chassis is being worked on now , the tune im not going to bother with till the big turbo is on it m that big ex housing and wheel is going to change fueling alot

 

I would spring for the tubular setup and running it out back. You're planning on street driving this thing, you'll be inhaling exhaust constantly. Didn't you learn your lesson when painting the car? Surprised you see no other alternatives for running it out back...

 

I put more miles on my tubular stuff this year then you car has probably ever seen. Not something that I would be worried about IMO...

 

Ditto. Good bit of hard street miles here on tubular stuff and no issues. And no way in hell are your roads as bad as pennsylvania. There are alot of pothole memes on the internet just for pa lol

 

My car has a 5in fender dump exhaust and I street drive mine and I smell zero exhaust in the car with both Windows down. I think dumping it under the car is far worse than the fender dump

 

Too many variables to be honest. Some guys are used to the smell of exhaust and it doesn't stand out as much, while most who don't work on cars might pick up the scent much easier. Let's not forget when it's 90 plus degrees out and you're waiting at a stop light w/the windows open, not just while the vehicle is in motion. I also hesitate dumping the exhaust up front in case the seals in the turbo blow, accident waiting to happen at high speeds...

 

car hasnt had many miles put on it latley but before i was averaging 5-600 miles a month on it when it had the twin turbo engine and setup
whos stuff are using , its been a while since i looked but i remeber seeing threads about controls arms breaking , and issues with steering stuff

ill be using a manual box as well

honestly im not worried about fender dumps , there is like 0 traffic here to sit in, lol we have a single traffic light in town, though an oil seal or blown headgasket could be scary with a fender dump

 

Umi road race k and their arms

 

My front suspension consists of an older AJE k member, Spohn a arms (no spring pockets), Racecraft 2" drop spindles, Manual rack, Strange double adjustable coil overs, and PA caster camber plates. I put 4-5000 HARD street miles on it this summer alone with zero issue.

 

And racecraft even says those spindles arent for street use lol

 

Because they break..

They got sick of people complaining about them breaking so they were like "Uhh, those are for race use only. No warranty!"

-- Joe

 

The main failures i seen, (2) seemed to be due to weld error and not design

 

race parts have no warranty, that's not new news....lots of whining babies think that because something is pricey that they should have a warranty too.

 

True, but spindles should not be breaking..

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...e-failure.html

Who puts drop spindles in a race car anyway?

I'm still trying to figure out who puts drop spindles in a car that doesn't say HONDA on the back...

-- Joe

 

drop spindles on a drag car is pretty normal. you get the drop without reducing the strut stroke range.

as i recall, those spindles broke on a car being driven outside of the scope of their purpose: being a lightweight drag car component. lightweight components are not built for the rigorous stresses of pot holes and back roads.

 

It broke at the weld tho

 

Ya the weld area should be the last part to break.. IF welded properly.

 

thats what worries me if i go that way , though i havent seen any recent posts of them breaking , so maybe they finally got the wleding down right

cars going back int he shop tommorow night for some odds and ends , the weather is starting to break here so i should be starting to street drive this thing some now soon

 

Here is my problem with Racecraft:

"Just to clear the air. When we received the spindle from the customer I had asked him if he was street driving or road racing. His reply was that he was not racing and did some street driving. At this time I told him that the spindle we received was not intended for street or road race use. "

I understand that parts break from abuse, but I expect RACE parts to be stronger than OEM parts. (to a degree). If normal street driving breaks a spindle, it's an epic POS.

The spindle brakes at 40mph in traffic and you want me to use it at 130+mph in the 1/4 mile?? No..

"Being that he was so polite about his spindles cracking I offered to replace his spindles with the correct spindle for the application, which is our road race spindle. "

What?? They have two spindles? A crappy one, and a less crappy one?

Why not just sell one good strong spindle?

"Being that it is a custom spindle with the road race option it took us a few weeks to get it done for him."

This is where my BS meter starts pegging. Translation "First design sucked ***, we made some modifications and we hope it won't break this time".

This gets even better:

"It was special order and is no longer available due to people not using the correct spindles for their application and then blaming us for the failure."

So the road race option doesn't even exist anymore. Translation "Uhh yeah, those mods we made didn't actually fix anything, so uhmm. We don't support that anymore.".

If you wanna trust your life to their crap products, so be it. I have a lot to live for

-- Joe

 

i use PA Racing stuff so i have no dog in the racecraft failure fight. however, i think that there are many people that get it in their head that racing parts are going to be stronger than oem and that just isn't the case. in most cases, the racing parts are trimmed up way beyond an oem part to lighten it. sorry, going in a straight line doesn't put the same stresses on a part that going around turns at traffic speed or putting a wheel in a pot hole does. it isn't the same. you're smart enough, you should be able to see that vector forces in a straight line are way different than they are on the street.

this thread sure has a bunch more whining and moaning than actually building and producing results. no wonder Charlie and Justin give you guys such a hard time.

 

Do u happen to know what springs are on your setup. I just did all pa stuff and got his recommended springs 150-200 I think. Just seems like I am having to run them way up to get any stiffness in them. Motor out of car at moment so not sure how it will sit yet. Just know no where near as stiff as the stock springs sat with motor out. Mine are a hyperco Spring 12 inches long.