Ok, I'm new to the Nitrous thing and have lots of questions. Mainly about how the system works. I have a friend with Nitrous on his '89 IROC and I know that on TPI setup the Nitrous is activated by a microswitch when at WOT. Is there anyway to set it up so that it doesn't?? Most people go WOT at the starting line at the track and I don't want to kick in the Nitrous that early. I know that you can hook a toggle switch up to it so that your nitrous doesn't kick in if you hit WOT while messing around during street driving so is it possible that at the track I could leave the toggle off at the start line and then at the appropriate moment when I want to kick the nitrous on I could flip the toggle on at that point?? The car will already be at WOT so I'm guessing that this will work. Any suggestions, opinions, or comments would be great appreciated.

 

C'mon.... you people can't seriously let me believe that no one has any answers, opinions, or suggestions about my post.

 

You can get things called window switches which will only activate in certain RPM ranges. Combine this with a WOT microswitch and you get a little more control. You might also be able to use transmission feedback to determine which gear you're in, if you don't want to hit in first.

If you want to get fancy with some electronics you could build a window switch to not hit until a certain MPH.

 

What you want to do is pretty simple. The only thing you have to buy additionally from the nitrous kit is one of the momentary push button switches. They are listed for use with nitrous, line lock, trans brake, etc. Hook up the nitrous kit as the directions indicate using the WOT switch but run the momentary before the WOT switch. This way you can't activate the nitrous at anything but WOT but can use the nitrous for as long or little as you like while being full on it. If you hit the button by accident while cruising nothing will happen b/c you're not wide open. Conversely if you're wide open and don't hit the button again nothing will happen. This is the safest way to use the momentary activated switch setup. Call the manufacturer if you have any futher questions on it. They will tell you exactly how to wire it if you're still unclear.

 

So it this momentary switch a "push and hold = on, let go = off" type switch? Or is it a "push once=on, push again=off" type switch??

 

The nitrous should be wired with a main toggle switch in the car (driver activated this is your arm/disarm switch) and a switch mounted to the throttle body (for full throttle activation) the NOS will not activate unless BOTH switches are activated (The driver switch must be turned on and Full throttle must be reached). From your message this set up is fine because if you are racing at the track you will be at full throttle and whenever you would like to release the Nitrous just flip the switch in the driver compartment. When you release the gas pedal from full throttle at the end of the track the Nitrous will be turned off even if the drivers switch is still on.

 

Thanks Racer350, that's what I wanted to know. Thats the way I want it to work. I have a B&M megashifter and would like to get the handle with the button on the side. Before I do that though I want to find out if the button on that handle is one that I have to "hold in" in order to keep the nitrous going or if it's like a toggle switch and I can press it once to turn it on and press it again to turn it off.

 

I agree completely with ryn28 on this post.

When you buy most nitrous kits, they come with a toggle switch for an arming switch, and a micro switch for a full throttle activation switch. The arming switch is the "flip it to one postion to turn it on and it will stay on till you flip it back to turn it off" type.
The throttle switch is a "momentary" switch. That means it is only on as long as you hold it down. It will not stay on when you release it.

I would leave the arming switch in place so that the system can be totaly disarmed when you do not intend to use it.
I would leave the micro throttle switch in place too, so the system can not be engaged unless you are at wide open throttle.
Then if you want further control of when the system hits, I would install a momentary push button switch in car, wired in series with the full throttle switch to engage the system only when the throttle is at wide open position, and you are holding the push button down.
You can get many types of momentary pushbutton switches.
You can get shifter ***** with them built in. You can get them with straps, to attach them to your shifter rod under the ****. You can get them that mount in a drilled hole, so you can mount them on the top of the shifter console. You can also get them mounted on the end of a piece of coiled wire, like a telephone. etc,etc...

 

The switches in the shifter ***** are momentary, meaning you must hold them on. When you release them they are off.

 

Thanks for the info and suggestions guys. I'm definitely using the WOT micro switch for sure and I think what I'm gonna do is use a master arm/disarm toggle and put a momentary button somewhere. I thought about the handle but I like to manually shift my car and I think it might pose a problem to hold that button down and manually shift.... but I'm gonna try that first. Only other thing I can think that would work with my manual shifting habit would be a switch mounted in/on the steering wheel.

 

I just wanted to add that I made my own "micro switch" and fit it up with my B&M megashifter handle. These things run about $39 in the performance magazines, but I was able to make mine for about $5 with radio shack parts. I got a sub-mini pushbutton switch and a cell phone cigarett lighter charger with the coiled wire. Cut the cell phone charger's ends off. Solder the wires to the switch, then shrink wrap for a nice look. Drill through the megashifter handle by putting it in a vice with a towel wrapped around it or use a drill press. Drill to a depth of 1.5" so as to not drill into the threads on the handle. Drill from the bottom side of the shifter handle to meet up with your horizontal hole. Feed the wire through the L shaped hole you drilled. Either tap the hole and screw in the switch or JB weld the switch in the handle. Now run the wire down through your shifter plate. Use a gromet for a finished look. Be sure to use a relay now to transfer current to any accessory you desire!

Another thing to think about is where you can mount your nitrous arm switch. Since my car came without foglights and defrost, I was able to find a 91-92 firebird swith panel with these extra switches. I used the extra factory switches to run my heater and N2O arm. This adds a clean look to your N2O install and also provides a well-hidden (but still very accessable) switch system to those of you who hide your N2O. It also poses no permanent modifications to your car because you can always swap in your original switch panel. Cheers!