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The perfect Turbo/Blower motor?

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Old Feb 22, 2002 | 08:36 PM
  #1  
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From: In my car
The perfect Turbo/Blower motor?

Hi every one, I am new to the board, and was hoping i could get some info/opinions. I have an injured short block, and I need to get another motor together. The question is, do I build a 350, 355, 377, 383, 406, 427, 434... I am definately going to buy the Little-M block, and a solid rotating assy, but what cid should I go for? I am running a set of Pro Action 23* heads, and the Accel Pro ram, so I will be able to run in the higher rpm's. I will be utilizing the d-2 by Procharger, and will be running upwards of 20psi. The Speed-Pro/F.A.S.T unit is ready and waiting to fire up a new combo, so let's hear your idea's!
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Old Feb 22, 2002 | 08:58 PM
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From: Ahead of you...
Car: 1984 LG4 Camaro
Engine: 350 Roller Motor
Transmission: Level 10 700R4
Axle/Gears: Strange 12 bolt 3.42
406 with 6" rod, best rod/stroke ratio considering cubic inches.
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Old Feb 23, 2002 | 06:28 PM
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Thanks Paul, I had the 406 as 1 of my choices, but I think I would want to go 400ci. and be able to go .030 over if i ever hurt anything. Does any one else have a suggestion? I thought this thread would wake people up. Guess no one has an oppinion for what the "perfect" s/c'd engine would be! Come on guys, lets hear your ideas!
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Old Feb 23, 2002 | 07:30 PM
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From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
I actuallY have a 412 and a 415. the 412 is just a .060 over 5.7" rod 406, very simple to build and relatively cheap. the 415 is a custom (oddball) stroke (3.835") with 5.7" rods. the 415 is the bad boy, but when you commit yourself to an engine try to avoid exotic strokes and rods. 406's with either a 5.7" or 6.0" rod is a great way to go because so many manufacturers sell every part that goes into this combo (pistons, rods, and cranks) from street cast to full out race degassed, non-twist, X-rayed, heat treated, and stress relieved forgings and everything in between. I failed the first rule of construction many years ago, I failled to follow the K.I.S.S. rule.
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Old Feb 23, 2002 | 09:29 PM
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B4Ctom1, Thanks for the input! I was considering going 377ci. But didn't know if there would be any different combo's that would benefit from the s/c more than the 377. I am looking for a combination that will produce 1000+hp, with my D2r. I am about to buy the block, and was looking for some opinions. Thanks again for the replies.
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Old Feb 23, 2002 | 10:04 PM
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From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
I am a procharger dealer, I have checked into running anything other than the D1 or D1sc head unit (like a d1r or d1x) and found out that the installation was unconventional. I figured I would have to settle for a really buzzed d1sc until I heard about the F1sc. they have had the other f series head units out for a while but are working on a F1sc that will fit where the D1sc (standard bracket) and could produce over 1000 hp. no pricing or part # out yet but if you read my post on this thread https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...threadid=86555 you will see my url for my project and my url for my possible project. as for the 377 it is a simple choice too.
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Old Feb 25, 2002 | 02:46 PM
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Well if you're going to go with a Supercharger then I dont know. But if you're going to go with a Turbocharger, then I would say go with a lower displacement engine (like the 350) rebuilt to a lower compression (like 8.5:1 or even 8:1) and run higher boost. This way you can let the boost level really determine how much power you have. You can also save on gas. If the mustang guys can push 1600 hp out of a 5.0 in high boost applications (yes they have a 1600 hp kit), then Im certain we can push around 1000 hp out of our 5.7ltr engines at around 20-25 pounds of boost. Choose witch kind of forced induction you want to use and go from there.
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Old Feb 25, 2002 | 04:11 PM
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From: Monticello, IN USA
Car: 1991 Z-28
Engine: 350
Transmission: T-5 (gonna buy the farm)
I call shenanygans on "our 5.7ltr. engines being able to handle 1000hp." And the Ford 302's that are running 1600hp, I agree with, but they are not factory stock blocks. Now, our aftermarket blocks may handle 1000hp., but unless someone can show me a stock 350 block running 1000hp, I don't believe it.
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Old Feb 25, 2002 | 04:37 PM
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johnsjj2, You may want to do a search on George Baxter and his factory motor'd 383. He is pushing well over 1000hp with his factory block. When I do this build up, I do plan on using the Little-M. CrazyHawaiian, Gerat reply, that is exactly the type of info I was looking for. Thanks
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Old Feb 25, 2002 | 05:28 PM
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Hey no prob bro. Hey Johns I think you're right about the stock 350 blocks not being able to handle 1000hp in All Motor applications (engine is producing 1000 hp all the time). Keep in mind with the turbo setup you can adjust the boost level to dictate how much power you push. So you can drive around 95% of time the time on 6 psi pushing like 450 hp (still alot of power!! lol!! but not pushing the block hard) and then when you goto the tracks you pump it up to higher boost and make a few passes. Not saying the engine won't ever blow up but it will last alot longer. My goal with the setup I want to do is 800 rwhp. I know its alot and most of the parts are rated below that (T56 is rated at something like 530hp/600ftlbs and the carbon fiber driveshaft is only rated at 700 hp) but I think it can handle a beating for small ammounts of time.
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Old Feb 25, 2002 | 09:01 PM
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From: Monticello, IN USA
Car: 1991 Z-28
Engine: 350
Transmission: T-5 (gonna buy the farm)
You are correct, I didn't think of the power not being there all the time. Thanks for bringing that up. Even with that, this is what I would do:
434ci-Little M block-Lunati crank-Custom Hydraulic Roller-AFR CNC 227 heads-Ross 8.5cr Pistons-Oliver Steel Rods-(2) T04 Turbos-H3-P-1.32 A/R-18psi boost-Spearco Intercooler-Fuel delivery is questionable. If I were to ever do this, money would obviously not be an issue, so fuel injection would be my choice, but I would not do the tuning. Maybe Lingenfelter, he is closest to me. Thanks for the oportunity to dream.
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Old Feb 26, 2002 | 10:05 AM
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From: West Hartford, CT
Car: '89 Z28tt
Engine: Dart Little M Twin Turbo
Transmission: T56
You need to answer a few questions to yourself first.

1. What is your goal. It can't be "the most reliable hp possible".
If you want max hp, you should build the largest displacement motor with the lightest rotating assembly possible. Build a top fuel dragster motor - 7000 hp

2. Is your goal limited by funds - what is the budget?

3. How much of it can/will you do yourself?

4. What is the intended use - street, drag, road, or just because you can

5. What are your limitations - existing parts you want to use, price, weight, reliability, maintenance, etc...
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Old Feb 26, 2002 | 05:49 PM
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I wonder how much it would cost for one of the professionals to tune a turbo setup like that. I guess it would really depend on what kinda fuel delivery. I know for the newer fuel injected motors, the aftermarket turbo fuel systems include a serial cable out (under the dash) and a program that you can use to tune the car. So I guess you load the program on a laptop and hook the serial cable up and you can get realtime stats on whats going on and modify settings and stuff. If this was the case, you could prolly tune it yourself on a dyno or at the track. I know this past week I saw a friend tuning someone elses Mitsubishi Esclipse turbo on the 1/4. He had the laptop hooked up and everything. His best pass of the night was a 13.2 but it was cool cuz he tuned it to run like .3 faster just modifying the settings on the laptop. Everyone was teasing him asking if he was getting a 'Danger To Manifold' message (The Fast and The Furious joke from the beginning part where the guy has a laptop in the esclipse and runs too much NOS) so we all had a good laugh at that one.
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