ok so I am new here is the thing
I need a little advice on this idea I have had

'85 tpi 305 camero
junk yard turbo from a big rig
(big rig was the original idea) or just some import or something
fabricate an exhoust manifold
run some pipe

I bought the car for this project on the understanding that turbo is much easier to install on an injected engine. but I am not sure how the computer will read (or wont)the sensors
or how much boost I can run with 9.1:1 compression
and how that would be affected by the direct port nitrous injection
that I also want to fool with because I belive I can hid it under the intake plenumwith the nitrous injectors going into the intake runners again anyhelp would be ... well helpful

thanx

 

OK first off...
Turbo from big rig.. NO.
Get something MUCH SMALLER.

I have roughly 9.5-1 and I am planning on 5-7 PSI. BUT you HAVE to modify your fuel and spark curves even at that small a PSI. The easiest thing is an FMU. I have seen them for 140 NEW!. NOS WITH PSI... better have a hellofa set of pistons.. along with Fuel pump...

 

Moving to power adder forum.

 

You need to do a lot more research before you just "Bolt on" a turbo. You have to deal with new spark curves and fuel needs as mentioned but you also have to deal with other things as well, like detonation, spark gaps, intercoolers, piping, exhaust routing etc. Just boltin ga turbo on will cause more problems than ease, I have been researching this project for over 9 months now, and been working on high power turbo cars here in Japan for over 2 years. You have to realize that an engine not built for a turbo is not going ot reat the same as one that has a factory turbo already installed. Although you are right about a fuel injected engine being easier to put a turbo on, it takes a lot mor ethan just the turbo to reach the full power potential of that turbo.


Sean

 

I have been researching my turbo project for almost 9 months now... Lucky for me GM already MADE a turbo 3.1... Grand Prix... (90-92) so the parts are available. Especially the BIN for the ECM. The vast majority of the engine is the exact same for me.. Minus the pistons. But when I rebuild it before going to serious PSI I am replacing the 3.1 crank with a Steel 2.8 crank that is 2MM shorter stroke(other then that its the exact same crank) . Using Flat top 9.5-1 with the 2mm shorter stroke it should come out to roughly 7.6-1. THE Perfect number to run 17+ PSI.. Just have to get ARP bolts.. Metal Head gasket... ALOT HOTTER plugs... Bigger gap.. Maybe .055 even. Oh and ALOT stronger ignition sys. I am wanting to get around 325 ponies from this little 3.1 before its all said and done, and its possible. Granted after I am done building a 4.3 its gonna get swapped onto that engine(with the new headers & cross over) and make ALOT more power...

 

Preach it Camel! I've been building on my car for 4 years now. And it hasn't been any kind of picnic. But I'm sure it will be a nice rainbow.

 

Lil Qik,

What coating company did you use to coat your turbine housings? All the one's I've talked to won't guarantee their coatings for turbine housings, especially the sterling silver finish you have. Some companies have dark grey and bacl coatings that they've used on turbine housings, but they wouldn't say how long it would hold up.

 

Hey Monty, the turbine housings aren't coated. I had just painted them with 2500 degree paint to prevent them from rusting while they were on the motor in the car. But what I plan on doing is having them coated in the gray color which is available up to 2000 degrees and then put these shields on them for good measures. I'll line the shields with some of the barrier padding that you can find at most places.

 

Where do those shields come from? They look nice!

 

Try this link and if it doesn't work let me know.


http://64.225.76.178/main.htm

You'll see " stainless heatshields " on the left side.

 

Thanks, that looks like something I may use.

 

those sure are pretty, and hopefully it will cut down some of the underhood temps. Thermal efficiency plays a big role in how the turbo reponds, and with the current problems we have with the starters in the F-bodys it just might help alleviate some of the problems. In my situation header wrap or a barrier is not an option, the humidity here would rust through a header too damn quick. I hope the paint sticks for you.

Sean

 

Well once the system is complete and functional, it's all coming back apart and the manifolds, turbine housings and down tubes are all getting blasted and then coated with the 2000 deg. heat coating. Then I'll be using the lined shields over that. Then the intake and all the plumbing is getting chromed.


I've also purchased some hood louvers for the hood right above where the turbo's and down tubes will be located. I thought that might help with getting some of the heat out.