It is for sale. It has a lot of premium parts and has only 7k miles on it. It has never once leaked a drop of anything. If I can't get a decent price for it, I'll hold onto it. That engine and 700R4 would make a nice cruiser out of a roller Nova or similar.

You are not wrong about a human-sized box that says "HOOKER" in big, bold letters.

 

Good Choice on Spohn's mounts. Other than DSE's, they're the best.

 

What aluminum radiators are you guys running?

 

I used the Champion.

 

I like this one because it looks to be an exact copy of the existing radiator. (Unless, of course, there is some reason i would want a different style of radiator???)




JEGS Performance Products 51904: Direct Fit Aluminum Radiator 1982-92 Camaro & Firebird Small Block Chevy, automatic transmiss | JEGS

 

That looks ok.
Here's the thread on the Champion 3 core: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/cool...ys-want-8.html

You could match the specs - same general price.

 

 

 

So...
The transmission is at the shop being "built".
The reason for the conflicting reports about whether my Vigilante converter off of my 700R4 would fit this transmission is because there is a difference between a 4L60E off of an LT1 car and an LS1 car. in '98 they made a couple changes - longer, thicker input shaft and a bigger converter. I was going to just buy a Yank SS 3600, but my transmission guy already swapped some parts thereby converting this '98 4L60E to the LT1 style... I guess that'll work. assuming that the converter will bolt up to the LS1 flywheel/flex plate, this'll save me about $850.00. Reviews are that PI (Vigilante) and Yank are about equally good.


Haven't decided on whether or not I'm gonna get an aluminum radiator or just stick with the stock one for now.


The Headers have been sandblasted and should be ceramic-coated (black) by tomorrow or Friday.


I was expecting an F-body oil pan with my engine, but the builder has now told me that they don't have one (they aren't able to keep them in stock - go figure) and they need to use my oil pan off my LS1. Which means I now have to remove the oil pan and get it cleaned up.


The LS3 is nearly done, they're just waiting for the Throttle body - I think its Proform or Moroso.


so, I figure I'm gonna have to buy the fuel line adaptor kit, like what Hawks sells (or similar).



I am not entirely sure how Hawks justifies $400 for a FPR and three small braided hoses.


outside of that, is there anything that I need to be thinking about as far as getting this LS3 fully operational in my Formula?

 

New Battery cables and grounding straps (head>firewall; block>chassis; trans>frame rail). That's about it, Linson.

I'm not a fan of the underhood gauge FPR. Would that save some $$ to go without? Make sure you don't get the press on connector to the fuel rail. You should get the one that slides over then screws on - much better. https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...-swappers.html

I think you have it covered.

 

Thanks, Ted. I read Twin_Turbo's thread. Looks like the issue is more of an anomaly or an issue with a particular brand - Russell.

Press on connectors seem to be the stock system and are a little hard to get around - at least on paper. how did you do your fuel lines - particularly concerning @ the fuel rail?

i've always kinda liked the underhood fuel pressure gauge. i think it looks cool. plus, i like that you can monitor fuel pressure simply by opening the hood.

 

looks like i'm ordering the Yank converter after all.

more modifications than i want to do that would end up "Frankenstiening out" this transmission. this will make the 700R4 a better sell or swap, retaining the Vigilante.

 

I used Hawk's FPR, too. The plastic clip did not keep a 180* angle, so when I swapped to a plastic 4th Gen tank later on, I got mine from Lonnie P. You can look around in the fuel sub Forum and PM him. I much prefer it.
Plastic tanks have a bucket that the pump sits in - less chance of fuel starvation and the flexible filler hose will make it easier to remove (if ever). Lonnie made braided lines from tank to filter, made sure the sender sent correct signal to stock fuel tank gauge, and I retained the stock hard lines from filter up to the rail in engine bay.

 

thanks again, TEDSgrad. I will contact Lonnie P.

 

satin black ceramicoat on the headers.

 

everything is apart now and ready to take to Vancouver - except i have to clean up the oil pan and make it look new. might even powder coat it. gotta clean up all of the accessory drive bracketry - will most likely powder coat that stuff.



this big-*** garage is really starting to pay off.

 

With that bill, you're going to need to file for your VAT refund!

 

Nice progress so far, Linson. I'll be following your updates. What size is your big-*** garage by the way?


-Jim

 

2000 - 2200 square feet, thereabouts. the fourth bay (other side of right hand wall) is a full apartment w/bathroom, shower, washer, drier, kitchen sink, etc.

 

en route:
Yank Converter (PAS 3400).

ordered:
Aluminum Radiator (Jegs 555-5904)
Water Pump (Tough Stuff, Black)
Alternator (Tough Stuff, Black)
{because this is only going to be new once, and it will never be easier to install than before the LS is in the car}

Trans Cooler (B&M Super Cooler, 14,400 BTU)



Engine is built, waiting for dyno runs.

 

The Blackening has begun.

 

Man that car is going to be a 0-60 mph monster if you can get traction.

 

Those look very familiar! Project is coming along.

 

Agreed. This phase (this year) I'm going to stay with the stock 9-bolt in order to spare no expense on the front end (engine/peripherals).

I won't be looking for traction until I get that S60 under it.

 

Yes sir.

Also went with the same Headers-Back true dual system. The ground clearance on that system just seemed too good to pass up.

 

Converter arrived today. Haven't had a chance to open the box. Received the water pump, trans cooler, and aluminum radiator a couple days ago. Had to send the radiator back to Jegs - it was bent in a couple places.

Still waiting for new alternator and radiator.

 

my best guess is that I'll have the LS3 by next week.

meanwhile, the parts horde continues to mount. have received:
the new aluminum radiator - no damage this time;
the alternator;
still waiting for the metal & O-ring style water pump gaskets that i ordered. speaking of which, the water pump came with two paper gaskets and an O-ring. does anyone know what the O-ring is for?

have ordered from Hawks:
fuel line kit w/ AFPR (was unable to conduct business with Lonnie P due to the relatively small scale of my fuel system conversion);
LS swap radiator hose kit
poly motor mount bushing kit.

 

got the wiring harness and ECU off the Formula yesterday. hadnt had a chance to work on it much lately. this is the most daunting proposition, i think - rewiring the car so i have working gauges and heat, etc..

speaking of which:


what are these things? and can i discard them with the old wiring harness?




...and for this, i'm hoping to eliminate most of it and keep only that which is necessary for a working heater/defroster, as i am deleting the air conditioning.




and how the hell is this gonna work, i wonder?

 

Fan relays - your new fuse box should have this covered - they are the big ones on the bottom in my pic.

I did not delete any creature comforts. What is the bottom pic from - C100? Headlights?

 

Here's wiring diagram showing hvac and a Hawks info pdf:

 

On left, Fuel pump relay with TPI ESC module behind it. Right side are the 2 fan relays. EDIT: Not Fan relays

Is your new engine coming with a harness ? Where do you plan to mount the ECU ?

 

I recommend to make it a priority to eliminate the stock fuel pump relay (and all the other relays of that style) and update it with a more modern relay. The stock relay is a type that is prone to short circuit between terminals and it can result in wire damage and even fire. Our cars are a GM product from the 1980's and some things are such a poor design that it is best to eliminate it.

 

[QUOTE=Linson;6132063]got the wiring harness and ECU off the Formula yesterday. hadnt had a chance to work on it much lately. this is the most daunting proposition, i think - rewiring the car so i have working gauges and heat, etc..

speaking of which:


[I][B]what are these things? and can i discard them with the old wiring harness?

ESC (behind the fuel pump relay) and then MAF power and burn off relays.
The fan relays are on the pass side core support by rad and the other one is on the pass inner fender by the airfilter box.

 

If I remember right, the only thing related to AC in that bundle are the connectors that go to the dryer and pressure switch, and a relay switch wire from the head unit to the relay under hood. The relay switch wire isn't worth digging out; I would just leave it and terminate how you desire at the relay. As far as the dryer and pressure switch plugs, you could just tuck those connectors out of the way in case you ever change your mind in the future. In other words, I would just leave the wires in tact and deal with the terminations in a way that satisfies your sense of order.

 

Not sure I understand the question. Are you looking for ideas how to utilize the C100 connector with your swap?

 

thanks.
the bottom pic is where the main wiring harness connects (or disconnects) from the car. i was wondering if i'm supposed to use the same pigtail/connector to splice in the new harness or what. i'll probably have a clearer idea of what i should be asking once i have the LS3 and harness on hand.
you guys are a great help. it is much appreciated.

 

thank you.
so i can probably get rid of all that stuff then. good.
not sure where to mount the ECU. will have a better idea once i have the LS3 and harness/ECU on hand (probably in less than a week).

 

which, as you can probably imagine, isn't the easiest thing in the world to satisfy...

good info.

 

CORRECT.
or if that is the usual way this is done; or if splicing is typically done.
what did you do?

 

[QUOTE=TTOP350;6132123]cool. so at any rate, i should be deleting all of these relays, which, i'm thinking should be covered by the new harness/fuse box.

 

Thanks again to everyone for all the input thus far, and continued support.

i should either have a good idea what to do, or at least much better clarity in the questions i should be asking (i'm guessing the latter) when i get the engine and harness.

all of your input is very, very, very much appreciated.

Dave.

 

Is the harness you are getting for a plug-in thirdgen swap, IE it includes the C100 and wiring ? Otherwise you will be needing to take apart and mod your old harness to get C100 and the main power wires that power the car. And the all important starter solenoid wire !. Only if you want to be able to start the car with the column key and have the lights work that is.

 

Plug that C100 connector back in. You need most the wiring. Only cut what you know to cut and nothing else. Leave about 1 foot of wire in the engine bay when you make a cut, and that also goes for wires you don't think you'll use. If you make a mistake you'll have enough wire to make connections. If you cut it to a stub and find out you made a mistake..... well, that sucks.

These are the connections I made. You'll have to tailor it for your situation.
All the power for your chassis is on 2 red wires that go thru the C100 connector.
I also added an underhood power center like you're thinking.
Linson, I have an index of useful information in post #1 of my thread. Everything is specific to my car of course, but it might be worthwhile to browse it for topics of interest to you.

 

will do on the C100. the L98 and harness (and ECU) are sold, but they're going in a jeep, so the guy shouldn't need the C100 I'm thinkin.

 

my best guess would be that I'll be picking up the LS3 on Tuesday.

 

Even your lighting goes through C100. You need to get it back.

 

no worries - I still have it.
So I'll just cut the harness, retaining the C100 connector with about a foot of wire - making a kinda big *** pigtail?

 

FIFY.

I just went through this drill of cleaning and fixing the C100 on my 87 Camaro, and there may be only 1 or 2 wires to cut, keeping everything else.... Headlights, turn signals, marker lights, power supply (two large red) and the starter (large purple). The other half is wipers, oil pressure and temp gauges... The latter two may need mating to the LS harness, depending on how you do gauges.

 

Yes, a reasonably long pigtail so you have enough wire to recover from mistakes. I left some wires longer than that if it could reach where I wanted it to land and avoid a splice altogether.

You can splice the wire directly or you can make a connector for a "plug and play" feel. I used a Metripack connector for the small wires (16 and 18 gauge) because I never removed the C100 connector like you did. I also had to make a plug to connect to my under hood power center. (My work isn't show quality but it is sensible)
The other alternative is to have Pocket make you a new harness with new and clean wire runs.

 

If you do make splices directly into the wire then use water proof heat shrink (has a glue inside that melts) and leave a good 1" of heat shrink beyond the crimp or solder. The extra length of heat shrink strain relieves (lends support) the wire at the connection so it doesn't break from vibration. Very important you do this.

If I had to splice smaller 16 and 18 gauge wires then I soldered them together in order to keep the size of the bundle reasonable (crimps take up a lot of room). If I had to splice to a larger 12 gauge wire then I made a crimp connection for its superior mechanical connection. I don't think you'll need to splice a 12 gauge wire because you already have a V8 car. I had more add-on wiring and changes to make because I began with a V6 car.