I have a wheel lock on one my 1982 Trans Am's stock wheels which a state safety inspection tech about decade ago stripped to the point where the key lock won't remove it. I have tried to remove this wheel lock with two different Craftsman wheel lock removal sockets. First few tries I could hammer these sockets on the lock and it was tight but when I turned it with the breaker bar the socket eventually slips off and doesn't turn the socket. Now I can't even hammer the socket on so it's tight, even when I use a 3-lb heavy duty mallet to hammer. I have tried to use a standard craftsman 1/2-inch socket, which I hammer and the socket won't remain firm on the lock, it is actually getting damaged. This wheel lock was part of a set which was installed by the Pontiac dealership back in 1982 and they appear to be made out of some sort of heavy duty impenetrable steel (not the cheap imported steel of the current wheel locks).

I have a Blue Point (Snap-On) wheel lock removal socket set (YA-1005C), which has a 1/2-inch (YA1005A-13) socket which doesn't have any ridges it's all smooth inside (it's the one that in the instruction sheet they recommend for the type of lock that I have). I can hammer this socket on to the wheel lock so it's tight and when I use a breaker bar the socket just slips since it's smooth. My question is will this smooth socket remove the wheel lock if I use a High Torque Impact Wrench such as the one in the Amazon link below?



Reason I ask is that I don't want to buy an impact wrench unless it will work with the smooth socket. If this will work, any special techniques? Or is there another easier way to remove this lock? I want to replace my rear brake pads and need to get this lock off.

I have enclosed a picture of the wheel lock.

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

Pete

 

 

Sounds like you don't want to buy an impact. If that's the case, go to a good tire store and have them remove it. Or weld a nut on the end of the locknut, you've got lots of room with that wheel style. Either option is bound to be less than a $200 impact.

 

Dude , grab that sucker with a good visegrip (one whose jaws aren't all stripped from years of use) , then slip a 2 foot length of small diameter pipe over the part of the vicegrip where you adjust the opening of the jaws , and then twist it lefty loosey till it loosens right up .

The fact that you have literally MILES of room to access it makes this one a breeze , the PIA ones are where the lugnut is so recessed into the wheel that the vicegrips have no way to grab it by the sides .

 

Easiest way I know of to deal with that, is to just drill the lug out of the nut. Piece o cake.

 

Take a lifetime warranty socket that is just a hair too small to fit over the lug. Pound it on with a hammer, pop on your breaker bar and it'll come right off. Drive the junk lug back out of the socket, and you're good to go. If you somehow crack the socket, warranty it.

 

Scotty Kilmer in the morning before a video shoot

 

Just take a 12pt socket that almost fits the nut and use a hammer to pound it on to the nut.

 

Heat, anyone?

 

 

Thanks Everyone, for all the great responses. Here's some more info related to the great suggestions you posted.

1) 12-Point (1/2-inch) Socket - no go, I tried different sizes, I can't get any 12-point sockets to bite onto the wheel lock when hammer this type of socket on the wheel lock. The wheel lock has this rounded shape on the side and it's made of super strong steel. In fact I have nearly destroyed one Craftsman socket, in other words the wheel lock is made out of tougher steel than the Craftsman socket which has surprised me. Never destroyed a Craftsman socket in 3 decades of using them, until now.

2) Craftsman Wheel Lock Removal Socket - no go. First few tries it would bite but when I turned breaker bar, the socket just slide off the wheel lock. After that the Craftsman Wheel Lock Removal Socket no longer bites no matter how long or hard that I hammer.

3) Bluepoint Socket - no go - I can hammer this smooth socket onto the wheel lock, it has a tight snug fit but when I use a breaker bar to turn the socket, the socket eventually turns without moving the lock. I probably going to get the heavy duty cordless Milwaukee impact wrench (link in my original post) and try the Bluepoint socket with it. This impact wrench is probably going to set me back around $400.00 by the time I purchase the impact wrench, charger, and 5.0 battery. However I need an impact wrench and it will be used on future projects.

Concerning possible other solutions brought up and not yet tried:

1) Vice Grips with breaker bar/pole - this is an interesting solution however the current pairs of vice grips that i have are two small to get a good grip. However I can pick up a pair of heavy strength industrial type vice grips and give this a try.

2) Tire Store - rather not go this route, the local tire stores all are substandard in my area. They will probably remove the wheel lock but in the process they will probably leave some nice damage on the wheel. I don't want to be looking for a replacement wheel in good condition which are very hard to come-by these days.

3) Welding a lug nut onto wheel lock - I really like this solution, however no welding equipment in my garage. However I know someone with a welder who can do this for me. I may go with this solution.

4) Applying Heat - I like this solution, may give it a try.

5) Hanson Sockets - I'll check into these.

6) Drilling Solution - This has worked for me in the past on impossible to remove bolts or nuts. I'll use this as a last ditch effort.


I'll let you know the outcome, thanks again for all the great responses.

Pete

 

If it still bites but loosening by hand pops the key around inside the nut when the force applied goes beyond a certain threshold, then an impact gun will likely do it. They hit, they do not apply a steady force.

What you should do is go to a local shop with your key and just pull up and say, "Hey I need you to hit this with your impact gun". He'll walk over, take your key and give it a pop. You will still have four other lug nuts holding the wheel on and maybe it will work. No need to do anything other than try it. You can drive thousands of miles with four lug nuts.

To help your chances, you can put a few (you will have to test) sheets (loose crumple, not stretched) of tinfoil over the nut and then tap the key in (all the way in). This will shim the key to the nut and make for less slip. I have not tried this myself, in fact I just thought of it as I am doped up on massive amounts of various cold remedies!

 

Nevermind.

 

Nah, that would be too easy.

He's right though, heat and a lug nut extractor. Done.

 

A 12 point socket should work. That's how I got the locks off of my sons car. You just need to find the right size. I was told this by a mechanic friend, that is how he gets them off. Did you try any metric sizes?

 

Sorry for the delayed response. I have let this go for about 4 years. I am ready to buy an impact wrench to do this job, going to go with a heavy duty DeWalt DCF899B which has up to 700 lb-ft of torque and 1200 lb-ft of breakaway torque.

My question is if I use a wheel lock socket removal kit what's the best way to get off the wheel lock with an impact Wrench. Do I just put the socket on the impact wrench and then push it on the wheel lock and then turn on the impact wrench?

Thanks for your help...

 

The impact wrench is going to hammer on it, and your socket will try to push out at you. Push in hard, pull the trigger, and hang on.

 

Less talk, more action. Just do it for gosh sakes.

 

Or just take it to any tire place that has wheel lock keys.

 

And use a breaker bar or impact, you can find corded ones for 59.99

 

Thanks Everyone for the great advice. I am going to order an impact wrench today and do the job. I'll keep you posted on how it turns out.

Gwarren007,

I just ordered the CTA Emergency wheel lock and lug nut remover kit that you recommended, looks like it will work better than the kits I currently have.

 

If that isn't the correct size, you can exchange it w/o a reciept at one of the larger parts stores, just say you bought it at another store and it was the wrong one

 

TURBO CAST RIMS!!!!!!!!!!!!


Do you have the hubcaps??



just take it to a good repair shop.....doesn;t have to be a tire shop...then find the inspector who messed it up and hand him the bill!!!!!!!!!

 

Good advice but I'll try with an impact wrench, if that doesn't work I'll take it to a good repair shop.

Yes, I have all four of the black aero wheel covers for my wheels. I attached a picture so you could see my Trans Am with wheel covers.

Unfortunately the garage that did the state safety inspection where the inspection tech damaged my wheel lock is no longer in business.

Thanks..

 

Thanks for mentioning that I got that covered, I ordered the CTA 5-piece kit from Amazon, it cost me a little over $40.00 with tax:


One of these sockets will definitely work. I haven't decided which impact wrench to get the Dewalt DCF899B or the Milwaukee M18 Fuel. I already have the Dewalt 20V charger which works for the Dewalt DCF899B. However the Milwaukee M18 Fuel has 1400 lbs of breakaway torque versus the Dewalt which has 1200 lbs of breakaway torque. I am sure the tech who stripped the lock overtightened the wheel lock so it's got a lot of extra torque on it. I am pretty sure 1200 lbs of breakaway torque will do the trick however with the Milwaukee having 1400 lbs of breakaway torque improves the chances of it removing it that much better. I figure the tech couldn't have put the wheel lock on with more than 500 lbs of torque - it should have been no more than 120 lbs.

Thanks again for all your help.


Thanks again for your help...

 

wow nice! and you got the PMD seats!

 

this is all you need-

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Genesis-...075K/300639516

 

Thanks, they are the optional leather PMD seats with driver side power seat.

 

Thanks for the info and the link...