When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Organized Drag Racing and AutocrossDrag racing and autocross discussions and questions. Techniques, tips, suggestions, and "what will I run?" questions.
Oh don't feel to man, we are running nines on a factory 76 block out of a school bus. That without turning it up much.
They will take a lot as long as the tune up is right.
Dart block will come in due time.
Sounds like we have a very similar block. I had mine machined with Pro-Gram billet mains.
Those are some good flow numbers. It should run well
What does the rest of your valvetrain consist of? You going shaft rockers?
After running shafts they are very nice! I really like mine so far.
Oh don't feel to man, we are running nines on a factory 76 block out of a school bus. That without turning it up much.
They will take a lot as long as the tune up is right.
Dart block will come in due time.
Sounds like we have a very similar block. I had mine machined with Pro-Gram billet mains.
Those are some good flow numbers. It should run well
What does the rest of your valvetrain consist of? You going shaft rockers?
After running shafts they are very nice! I really like mine so far.
I want to run a shaft mount setup need to find good set up fair price kind of thing you price out 1.6 stud mount roller rockers , 7/6 studs, stud girdles guide plates etc etc you are looking at $600-800
you can buy a good shaft mount around $1200
You can buy them better then that. Pm me and I can send you some contact info for Shelton bars at lgm development. He has some very nice shaft rocker setups for great prices.
what crank is that? Beautiful set up its going to run awesome
Dont be so quick to abandon stock blocks they work great with great power, we race a 8500 rpm 355. They usually break when a rod lets go lol.
Thanks for the vote of confidence.... 8500 rpm you don't mess around ..
The crank is a piece of work to say the least got it from crankshaft specialties back in the early 2000 had it sitting for years, Recently I had it checked by local machinist found it was under standard and not balanced properly got to pay for it twice
the stock block has hard block in it and will have all the passages o-ringed
Last edited by MY-92-RS; Mar 10, 2018 at 08:10 PM.
I use T&D myself. Comp Cams versions but still made by T&D. Either way, a shaft rocker is much better than a pedestal rocker. When I installed mine, it relocated the rocker directly over the tip of the valve. Doing so also moved my pushrods over and I had to modify the pushrod passage through the head so that they wouldn't hit the walls.
I went from this with a stud girdle and tall valve covers and still needing a rocker cover spacer.
To this with shaft rockers and a low profile rocker cover.
That is definitely the way to go!! I had stud girdles and all that stuff on my last engine.. Pain in the but.. I like your set up, clean simple get it done; did you have to go to off-set plungers in the lifters??
Last edited by MY-92-RS; Sep 13, 2018 at 11:44 AM.
Actually, I was considering it but it's never recommended and not all the rockers would require an offset plunger. Only a couple of the pushrod holes through each head had to be modified. With aluminum heads, it's not hard to shave out some extra metal for the clearance.
There's a lot of metal in these heads. The intake ports have sleeves inserted where the headbolts pass through since the porting goes out into head bolt area.
It took a bit to get the stands all set up properly. The exhaust was pretty straight forward. The intakes needed a taller stand because of the longer valves plus I have lash caps. Once it was all set up, valve train geometry is as perfect as I can get it. Nice thing about shaft rockers is that you can unbolt them to change a valve spring then just bolt them back up without needing to recheck the lash.
Shaft rockers is the way to go especially when your valve train is on the extreme side. My triple springs have an open pressure around 800 pounds. Seat pressure is around 300 pounds. Valve lift is .833/.809 so those rockers and springs get a lot of abuse at 7000+ rpm.
Shaft rockers are just overkill for a street engine but if you have the money to throw at the engine, it sure won't hurt them.
Shaft rockers is the way to go especially when your valve train is on the extreme side. My triple springs have an open pressure around 800 pounds. Seat pressure is around 300 pounds. Valve lift is .833/.809 so those rockers and springs get a lot of abuse at 7000+ rpm.
thats it? I figured you would be mid lower 300’s seat and 900-1000 open depending on the lobe
Looks great!
I think i'm losing another #509 400ci block. Can't seem to keep cam bearings in it. Even had it fixed at Tim Wilkersons shop with his cnc equipment. Oh well, time for an aftermarket block.
Looks great!
I think i'm losing another #509 400ci block. Can't seem to keep cam bearings in it. Even had it fixed at Tim Wilkersons shop with his cnc equipment. Oh well, time for an aftermarket block.
Ouch .. sorry to here that !! this is most likely the last factory block I will ever build >I have one more that will be a 383 backup street engine built with parts laying around the garage .. than that is it for me.. aftermarkets blocks are so inexpensive now and so much better than Chevy ever cast .. there really no reason to use a factory block on a hi-end build north of 500 horsepower
I've the same timing cover bought primarily for the built in and adjustable thrust button. I'd also thought about using the access to get at the Hex-A-Just timing set but after setting the cam timing initially, I never went back.
I've the same timing cover bought primarily for the built in and adjustable thrust button. I'd also thought about using the access to get at the Hex-A-Just timing set but after setting the cam timing initially, I never went back.
I agree it is a real nice piece looks good on your motor .. I probably never will go back in mine either but I do like how you set the can button !!
Nice numbers. Who spec'd that cam? It seems it's rare to see a tight LSA of 106 but that's a desired target for a 383. Seems most just fall back to the standard 110 out a catalogue and consequently leave considerable performance behind. You can't argue with your results.
Nice numbers. Who spec'd that cam? It seems it's rare to see a tight LSA of 106 but that's a desired target for a 383. Seems most just fall back to the standard 110 out a catalogue and consequently leave considerable performance behind. You can't argue with your results.
I got this Cam from Sam at Guardian Performance out of Tennessee he used to build engines For old Bob Glidden back in the 80ties unfortunately neither of them is still with us ..
This cam has been sitting in my closet for many years waiting to be used !!
8500 rpm you don't mess around ..
