When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
As a follow up to the filter discussion, it seems that Motor Trend's Engine Masters has a video on a 670 HP 5.3 LS turbo build that demonstrates the efficiency of (or lack of) several styles of filters from Air Raid including the "race day" screen only version. The filters themselves look to be sizable enough for the application. Interestingly none of them represented any detriment to power output.
I've added a link here but you may need to be a subscriber to watch it. It will eventually make it's way to Youtube. As of yet, it looks to be subscriber based viewing.
Beautiful car and engine bay!! Did you fab your own coil mount? I looked for places and ended up underneath radiator support. Have any good pics of coils mounted besides what's posted and which coils are you using? Here's my setup, very very slow going. Also, I thought Big Red should be mounted as close to Procharger as possible and before intercooler?
Thanks indebt, yours is looking terrific as well! If your running stock radiator hose connections, make sure you check that upper hose before you finalize your outlet tubing, that's where I found the most difficulty with clearance when running my piping.
Coil mounts are a custom setup I had built during my previous LS1 build. Check out post #46 in the below thread, as well latest revision is in this thread above in post #93. https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...uild-swap.html
Coils are stock 2001 LS1, brackets are made from 1/8" x 3" steel formed to fit into spring pocket, aluminum spacers came from other coil brackets I already had. As a spacer option, I find SS tubing works great for building custom spacers, easy to cut at accurate lengths with tubing cutter. Ready rod used to run through all coils to keep them together. I didn't like the long coil wires I had in the previous installation, so I built custom wires, which shortened their length considerably. The 60 degree boots have worked perfectly with header clearance thus far (dyno only), without the need for any additional heat protection.
I believe you are correct on the preferred location for Big Red valve mounting, but have seen them mounted in many locations both upstream and downstream of intercooler. Some say upstream to prevent heat soak of the intercooler when not under boost, but my thought is, not much heat should be produced when no boost is being built. When I get the engine running with the supercharger I plan to check this theory out with a heat gun to see actual temperatures.
Pressure wise, the F1C is good for producing up to 38# boost, with my current pulley selection I am hoping to see somewhere between 10-14 PSI. At this level I am not concerned with overpressuring the supercharger, however may need to consider this later, if I go to higher boost levels, which if that occurs, I will be replacing the aluminum piping with SS and get rid of all hose connections.
I've read that for stick cars, it is better to locate it near the throttle, as during shifts the intercooler system will retain more pressure, allowing boost to rebuild quicker after a shift. I wanted the valve up high so it is not blowing out on the ground, as I have heard many complain of dirty engine bays when mounted in lower sections. And....I really want the valve to relieve through the stock hood venting, which is directly above the valve. I'm not always building primarily around functionality only, lol.
Thanks for the info. I'm still running coil springs so I'll just leave them where I have them. Finally started mine up after a few years, feels and sounds good.
Wow, almost two years since last post. With the current situation, finally getting some time to get back on this. Car is running N/A .... well has been idled that way many times, but only had a one day test run last year. Been fighting a serpentine belt squeal which seems to have been a bent alternator pulley, here’s to hoping as it has been a gremlin, as the alternator was the only used item.
Finally .... got my intermittent belt squeal sorted out! Do you know how troublesome and irritating something so small to fix is .... when you can't find it?! There have been more belt and pulley alignment checks and adjustments then I wish to ever dream of. LOL The issue... two piece alternator bracket. When I first installed, with all bolts in place, each bracket was pushed towards the engine centerline to take up bolt slack, one bracket bottomed out slightly before the other and put the alternator at just enough angle it would intermittently squeal. Holy $817, was I happy when this was resolved!
Now getting to a point where I can see my end goal. WILL be on the road next summer! Going to spend the winter cleaning up odds and ends; then in the spring, a four wheel alignment and then onto the dyno. This last engine build has been a 3+ year journey, I can't wait to heat these up!
Even the 32 year old custom subwoofer project is done!
I like it when a plan comes together.
Even if it takes what seems like forever.
I'm in much the same boat in terms of progress over time. My engine has been waiting for disassembly and inspection for a couple of years now. Finally, it's at least out of the car and the winter can be used to get things back on the road.
Maybe we'll see each up here at the old Castrol Raceway. If I can get my act together, I'll be regular at Friday night test and tune.
Last edited by skinny z; Dec 12, 2021 at 02:44 PM.
Reason: Because grammar is important...
Hope to get up there at some point next year. Fridays are a little tough with the drive, but would like to do some runs next fall. Would be great to meet up. You can check out how your front bumper cover turned out. Thanks for that!
More like what am I rebuilding.
The 355 I refreshed a couple of years back with freshly ported heads and a new spec cam kind of came unraveled. It's a long story but the Cole's Notes version now is to address the engine carnage and reassemble to the intended spec.
I'd hoped to build a 383 forged bullet shortblock to tackle the open road events in Nebraska and/or Nevada. Realistically though, I just really want to get back to the 1/4 mile and continue where I left off.
As for the Calgary commute to the new RAD Torque Raceway (formerly Castrol), it seems that the only test and tune is the JB's Street Legal event and only on Friday evening. I can see how that would be a drag to get here (no pun intended). I'm 20 minutes way though. So at least there's some local support if you get here and need vehicle service.
From a racing perspective, I'm not in your league. I'd be gunning for a "corrected" mid/low 12 second pass as before. Then work that down to 11's eventually.
That 355 with some nitrous would be fun. Build it for some RPM. I had my previous LS1 reving to 7200 on that road course straight away a few years back, was very fun!
Was just checking out RAD. New surface, LED lighting and many other track upgrades for next year!
I am starting to modify my tune for the supercharger addition and have a question in regards to base settings. I have replaced my MAP sensor with a Racetronix MAP30, 3 bar and have converted my file to a HP Tuners 3 Bar O/S.
With the revised O/S my Main VE Primary table now extends to 315 kPa; I have copied and pasted the previous N/A values up to 105kPa, 8K RPM. I realize the remaining values need to be tuned under boost conditions, but wondering what some good starting values would be to get me closer to within the anticipated range to the final values? (Defaults above 105kPa are at 440) Anticipated boost with the 4" pulley is around 14-15 #s.
Seven years since the start of this build and I finally have it tuned with the supercharger. Feels so awesome to have it back on the road after such a long hiatus and with the cage addition feels so solid now. Ran into fuel issues though on the dyno around 6000 - 6200, injectors were maxed out and fuel pressure was starting to drop so never got to run full tilt. Tried increasing fuel pressure, but still not enough. Car had made 410hp at wheels N/A which was run up to 6800 and was planning to redline there again, but had to pull timing due to the fuel system limitations. Was a bit of a disappointment as the supercharger was starting to really come on, still making 14#s at the reduced limit and good power. Also missed out on the wide-open pull with the cutout open, which I really enjoy.
So, need to plan next fuel system to get it there.
Current fuel system is dual 255s, which were both run continuous on the dyno as we were concerned with my 7 PSI switch on the secondary pump cutting in too late, braided Teflon -8 supply, and -6 return lines, and running 80# injectors.
Upgrades I am thinking of are replacing -6 with -10 as supply and using the -8 as return, upsize injectors to a flow matched set of 1000cc/min, as well replace pumps with dual 340s and replace the 7PSI switch with a 3 PSI. Once it can be run out to 6800, next step, would then like to install a wet shot of nitrous which would be T'd into the supply at the engine bay. I feel I need to replace injectors and pumps to get there and possibly delay the fuel line upgrade till later but seems like only going halfway. Not sure how much impact the nitrous would have on the fuel system if I jetted it for a 200 shot for use in the higher gears.
Any other suitable fuel pump options out there? Any suggestions on injector brands for the application?
What’s the expected hp all in? I’m not a fan of dual pumps bc is one never kicks on or dies you don’t really know and lean out and pop. I think -10 is excessive and you would be more than fine at -8. I run -6 and I’ve pushed 750 crank hp and not had any issues. I would say -8 would be very safe. Dual 380s would do it depending on HP output. I would consider a single 450 high pressure or a 525lph. A 450 is capped around 900 on pump gas. With that being said people run dual pumps on a switch all the time.
Tuner indicated, based on his experience with his dyno (reads low) I am currently at around 875 at crank after we pulled the timing. Based on the early runs, he was anticipating making 18# at 6800. Anticipating another 100 horse from increased RPM and leaving room for 200 nitrous that would be just under 1200 all in.
When I purchased the lines from Racetronix, they indicated they would be good for 1200hp, so maybe I should leave that part for now. I have an alarm on my fuel pressure gauge which I set for to indicate low pressure, but I don't have the contacts wired in at present.
Your running pump gas right? I would leave the lines and increase your pump and see what happens. Worst case a -8 feed would support 1400+ hp since a -6 is good for 1200. Honestly for price I would do two walbro 450s (over the 380s) I think the 274s are high pressure versions. Getting them in the stock tank will be fun if you still have that but I would run them all the time as your regulator depending on brand would be able to regulate that down at idle like a big aeromotive. Otherwise if you got money to burn maybe look at a big external? I never liked the A1000 but maybe the new brushless pump so you can regulate the idle pressure? Since your dual pump already I think just upgrading those would make the most quick sense and I would just jump over the 380 to the 450 and have room for more if need be.
