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Organized Drag Racing and AutocrossDrag racing and autocross discussions and questions. Techniques, tips, suggestions, and "what will I run?" questions.
what are you using for throttle linkage with a carburetor? Are you using a cable? If so is it a factory cable or a Lokar? If it's a rod style how did you do it? I've been running a factory cable for years and it broke on me this weekend. Need to fix it and if it's worth it upgrade.
I ran a rod system for many years mainly because I use an inline throttle stop as a starting line enhancer. When I relocated the SLE on top of the tunnel ram instead of down low beside it, I was having problems trying to figure out a way to run a throttle rod to make it work. Hardest part about running a rod is going through the firewall. You can't have any open holes through the firewall which means having some sort of boot around the hole that the rod goes through. I couldn't find any easy way to make it work the way I wanted so I just picked up a generic Locar cables system and hooked it up.
I don't use an OEM throttle pedal so a suggestion for your situation is probably pick up an OEM replacement.
When using the SLE, I push a bump button and the linkage on the tunnel ram expands. This allows me to stage the car at an idle but the throttle pedal is pushed right to the floor. As soon as I release the transbrake button, the linkage contracts, the engine goes to WOT and when the delay box finished counting down, the transbrake releases. I launch at WOT (2-step) and never have to push the throttle to the floor when the lights are coming down.
If for any reason I had to move to a class that didn't allow throttle stops or SLE, I could easily remove the CO2 cylinder in the linkage and install a solid rod to take it's place. Never had to, but it was an option.
Converting to a rod will be a fair amount of work as I still have a stock firewall, just wondered if anyone had done it. I looked at lokar cables and I wonder about that set screw deal holding the cable ends. The OEM style cable on my car worked fine but I need a pedal stop as I was being stopped by the cable which is why it broke. It took almost 20 years to break so I can't complain, but it's time to improve it.
Well technically so do I. Throttle cable to a bellcrank at the base of the tunnel ram then linkage up to the toilets but I also use an air cylinder as a SLE. The way I have it set up, when the SLE is activated, the butterflies close even though my throttle pedal is on the floor. There's also linkage on the other side of the toilets joining them together. I wanted to mount the SLE down low but couldn't make it work that way.
I think I'll stick to one carb! How does that set screw work out with the Lokar cable ends? I have a Lokar cable from another pile of parts I bought but I didn't see the advantage of it.
I really studied changing my pedal and making a rod, but on a 3rd gen with a stock firewall it looks like it's going to be some time consuming fabrication, especially working under the dash and over the door bars! So here's what I did since I wanted to go racing. I took a factory pedal set up and removed the plastic pedal,spring and pin and made a flat steel pedal pad to weld to the rod. I bought a factory replacement cable and installed it all. Under the pedal there is a lot of psace to the floor board, especially with no carpet. I could see that while at WOT I was pulling solidly on the cable itself, so much so it actually flexed the firewall. I fabricated an adjustable throttle stop for under the pedal to the floorboard. I then kept adjusting it until at WOT it would hit the stop so the cable wasn't over stretched. I checked to make sure the throttle blades opened completely. It has a better feel than the plastic pedal or just the rod, I've run it both ways. Also feels more solid as you hit the stop at WOT. When the old cable broke, and I mean old as it might have been the original, I could feel the pedal drop when it broke so I knew I was over stretching it. So far so good as I ran it Sat and it did fine. I also bought a spare cable that I hope to never use.
the set screw locks it tight..every thing pulls back smooth as glass.. in the test fit the gas pedal is set to bottom out before any stress it put into the cable..and the TBs are at WOT.. it is a easy set up..
