well like some or most when we get the car and the a/c doesn't wortrk it gets tossed. now I want to put it all back on. seeing as it is going to be an expensive endeavor I was looking thru ebay. especially since I removed everything. came across this kit and was wondering if anyone had tried it or what your thoughts on it are.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/89-92-CAMARO-Hi-Po-A-C-System-Upgrade-Kit-w-Evaporator-AC-Air-Conditioning-IROC-/400416571239?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1992%7CModel%3ACamaro&hash=item5d3aafff67&vxp=mtr

 

that kit in no way will just bolt on.especially that sanden compressor. not that you cant fab it .and not that it wont work. but it would be easier ,and look better to use parts that are actually designed for our cars.good luck

 

the kit does come with pretty good instructions.link in the ad.

 

The mount & drive is pretty simple really; the kit probably comes with brackets that will work, if not, piece o cake to make something up.

I used to work at a place that sold aftermarket AC systems back in the early 70s. We used York compressors, and had M&Ds for virtually EVERY brand of motor in every chassis it came in. You'd be amazed at how simple it really is to get an AC to work, gotta be the simplest system in a car with the possible exception of the electrical system. Even simpler than the cooling system.

Looks like kind of alot of money, but that's the granddaddy of all AC "kit" companies, so I'd be inclined to suspect it's pretty thoroughly engineered. Sometimes a headache-free install is worth some extra jack.

 

darnit never noticed installation instructions till yall pointed them out. the two brackets that are on the kit adapt it to our serpentine bracket. the rest seems perty simple. from what I read the compressors are pretty good ones. money is coming in so I am thinking I will buy this kit. if I do I will post up the full installation. still will need to buy the evap box and blower motor. and also all the switches. should be about $1000 when all done. perty expensive but if it all works and lasts it will be well worth it.

 

I saw that as well when trying to search for all the parts I need to reinstall A/C on my car. One issue I think I would have with it is I have tall valve covers that are already a close enough fit with the stock compressor. I would imagine the compressor that comes in the kit would hit my valve covers...between that and the fact it is a $750 kit kind've steered me away.

 

Hey man i just ripped all of my AC System out. Kept Pressure just was low on freon and i never used it. If your interested i can post pictures tomorrow? PM me! FYI AC Heater box is damaged. everything else is good!! This came off a 88 Firebird TBI

 

Man I'm not gunna lie this is actually very disappointing and kind of steering me in the direction of just deleting the AC completely since I'd only be taking it out in ideal conditions. I guess I could delete it now and always add the VA kit in the future? Anyone see an issue with that? Just would have to drill the fire wall through the new paint is the only issue I can see?

Has anyone installed the new Surefit systems and had GOOD results? I'm sure tons of people have done analysis on temperature and fan speed results before and after on the older muscle cars. I'm going to look around.

 

I had removed my AC system back in the 90's and decided to reinstall 2019.
I didn't buy the whole kit and reused the evaporator.

Works great

https://www.classicautoair.com/shop/...it-v8-stage-3/

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/cool...r-install.html

 

Several threads on this subject, but this is one of the latest....

The Classic Air kit is no longer available so I've been researching piecing this together with the Sanden compressor. I already did R134 conversion and like most threads say, the original R4 compressor only lasted about a year. My shop says its "leaking from everywhere". Pricing parts on Rock Auto and came across an new AC Delco R4 stating R134 usage. Has anyone used one and it last? It seems a direct replacement R4 would be simpler than going with brackets and such with changing to the Sanden.

 

Son of an HVAC guy here (family side business for 25 years, I helped, A LOT! Spent every summer with Dad doing this growing up). We serviced our own cars at home, but the basic principles apply to all (refrigeration, split systems, mini splits & even the AC in your car) & so do these tips:

• Use the proper oil & enough of it. Do not expose it to atmosphere very long. Open the can, pour out what you need into the system & close it all back up asap. Moisture & air turn PAG oil acidic.
  
• Change the accumulator. It's a canister looking device by the firewall usually where the air box containing the evaporator. It has a filter / drier which, once exposed to atmosphere, needs to be changed because it absorbs moisture from the air, which can turn the system acidic (yes, there is a theme here!).
  
• While you're at it, swap the metering device (orifice device) & any seals you run across too.They usually contain seals and screens which can clog up & such. When a joint comes apart, that now exposed o-ring needs tossed as well.
  
• ANY system components left open to atmosphere for extended periods of time should be changed. If you pulled your system years ago, left the ends uncapped but now want to reinstall, just don't. Unless you can guarantee it's free of any kind of debris (dirt, bugs, critters, rocks, etc) by flushing it properly, all you're doing is opening an exposure point to ruin your expensive project at some point. Could be a week, next spring or a couple years, but eventually it'll catch up to you & won't be cheap to fix. You CANNOT have any air, moisture, or other foreign substances (chemicals, residues, additives) in ANY part of the system. Period. End of sentence. Don't pass Go, don't collect $200.
  
• Pre-charge your system with compressed Nitrogen and check for leaks. It also helps get rid of moisture. If it checks out (watch the gauges for pressure loss, if you see it drop, spray joints with soapy water, Dawn is a good choice here), get your pump hooked up and ready to run so when you bleed the Nitrogen off, before it's completely gone (very low pressure but not letting air back in), get the vacuum pump running so it's not allowed to go to atmosphere. Dad was OCD about this part, we'd do it up to 3 times to make sure we had that system dry & sealed.
  
• Use the correct amount refrigerant (use a scale that can measure ounces, put the canister on it, zero it out & watch the numbers!) . One that's free of any additives. Only use the dye if absolutely necessary and never use any sort of stop leak or seal conditioner. Whatever it's called, just don't!

If you can handle this process, I promise you it's worth the extra effort. Be precise and error on the side of caution. It will ensure this system stays trouble free and you won't be wasting more money in the long run.

 

RA also has one that's listed as "GM genuine" and is cheaper, so not sure what the difference is. However, I'd definitely buy all the parts the Four Seasons kit shows at least.

 

Thanks for both your replies. That's some good suggestions on how to do this yourself. If I had the car here I would consider the equipment needed and attempt this myself, but in this situation, the car is in Alabama and I only have time to travel down from Md to change out the parts and then my daughter will have to take it to a shop for the charge afterwards.
That's the main reason I'm asking about using a new R4 compressor (w/R134) over switching to the Sanden style. I don't really have time or resources there to mockup or modify brackets etc to make that work. I had installed a new dryer/Acc when I put the car together a few years ago and its only had R134 in it, but for $25 it seems it may be worth replacing that as well. I was going to purchase that Four Seasons kit you referenced and a new parallel flow condenser. Maybe even new lines. I've read you can never get the original oil out of them, whether that's a real issue or not, I don't know.
So, I guess back to the original question, has anyone had success using a new R4 compressor with R134 in it or would the Sanden conversion be worth the effort?

 

Seems it would be a shame to use the R4 when the Sanden is so much more efficient. I had originally done the CAA kit in my 2nd gen and opted for an R4 since I was running a 1990 serpentine system.

But the R4 always felt like such a power hog... I could feel the extra drag on the engine just by seat of the pants.

I ultimately switched to the Sanden and now you can't even tell when the compressor is on due to how much more efficient it is.

 

The Sanden I ran on my Vortec did not cool well at all, they are weak junk. 4.25" pulley SD7H15 model. Swapped to a Denso 10S20F 10 cylinder with the same 4.25" pulley and instantly had ice cold AC. I see vent temps of 26-29F before the compressor cycles off on a 110F day now and about 38F at idle. Same exact system just a compressor swap.

To me the best replacement for the R4 is a GM V7. I have used the V7 for a 2004 2.2L S10 multiple times as it has a 6 rib serpentine pulley and is fairly easy to adapt in place of the serpentine belt R4s. The V7 is smoother and can draw less power than any fixed displacement compressor. It destrokes to match cooling demands and keeps the evaporator at a steady temperature a few degrees above freezing.