Anyone have a opinion on this
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

 

Well if it works for water heaters, why not radiators...

 

They have been around for a while. Can't hurt to try it. Cheaper than replacing an intake manifold.

My original factory manifold started leaking due to corrosion from the coolant/aluminum/cast iron interaction.

 

They work. We used to use zincs in the Coast Guard. It was an all day job inspecting and changing zincs in an engineroom. Just remember to check them regularly, and replace them when they are 50% gone. Once the zinc is corroded away, it no longer protects the engine parts. They protected metal parts in the ship's cooling system from corroding and we ran salt water to cool fresh water and oil in the engines.

 

The price is certainly right. Sounds like a good idea.

 

Opinions is all you will get for some time, It has a Estimated Ship Date: 5/5/07

Jerry

 

I saw an ad for a radiator cap with a zinc anode extending off the center of the cap into the radiator tank, but I don't remember where I saw it.

 

A couple months ago, I heard of something similar to zincs that would help prevent your car (body) from rusting... (Maybe if you live near the ocean.) makes more sense in a radiator

 

I think what you heard about was that most manufacturers are coating the steel with zinc (galvanising) before they asemble the car. In addition, in the case of frames, the steel will be zinc plated, and then when the frame is welded together, the whole thing will be dipped in a zinc plating solution again before painting. I'm not sure, but it wouldn't surprise me if new frames are powder coated instead of just painted.

 

Powder coating doesnt hold up well underneath a car.

 

Just curious, does conventional paint hold up better than powder coat? I suspect nothing holds up well when constantly pelted with rocks and road debris.

 

Emron does

 

Imron, yea... nothing will take that off short of melting it off.

Paint does hold up better IMO. Its not as thick, doesnt seem to get all chipped off as easy as powder coat. I have a couple powder coated parts on my stang and there's little left of the coating. The painted stuff looks ok on there and the stuff I painted on my other cars.

 

I would have never guessed that. My powder coated parts have held up really well under my car.

 

Could depend on the powder coating maybe.
A friend designed some mountain bikes and had them powder coated and you couldnt scratch it with a sharp key. But my neighbor says the color does not hold up to sun, and if you check out the TA's with the coated chrome and blue rims they are fading.

 

Yeah, powder coating doesn't hold up well in sunlight. That's why a lot of 4x4 guys with black power coated bumpers, brush guards ...etc have faded parts.

 

Are you sure you're not thinking about POR-15?

I have aluminum wheels powder coated with clear and they have held perfectly for 3 years now.

I know that POR 15 needs top coated because it is UV unstable.

 

Put color on them and see what happens.

 

My info on powder coating fading came from a person whose company builds vehicles for SEMA and has his own line of custom rims.
And actually seeing TA faded rims.

 

So I should be okay with the clear powdercoat? and not with powder coat with pigment, right?

I've got the GTA wheels at the refinisher right now and I sent him an e-mail about this because it worries me.

 

Yea, the clear should be fine.

 

Anybody that does not believe the above is welcome to see first hand the Brush Guard on my Blazer.

 

So, it fades? or gets chalky looking? Can the finish be wet sanded or buffed back up to a luster?

 

I think "Faded" is a pretty good discription. It has this kind of haze, not glossy and not flat with stains that I think is just the "Powder Coat" wearing off or out.
You can run your hand over it and nothing comes off so its not like paint,it just looks Dull. The Finish or whatever you want to call it is done. Nothing to Buff.

 

Would this be the same thing?
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...Ntt=Zinc+Anode

 

Both products would do the same thing. I don't know why the J C Whitney version has a spade connector to that ring thing. The system works by putting zinc which corrodes faster than iron or aluminum in the cooling system to allow the water to corrode the zinc first. If the zinc is changed before it corrodes away completely, it will protect your engine from corrosion. One question I have is why the JC Whitney ad says it is not for radiators with plastic tanks? I fail to see what a plastic tank has to do with anything.