Suspension and Chassis Questions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?

Suspension rebuild

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Old May 15, 2002 | 08:29 AM
  #1  
Buck268's Avatar
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From: Troy, MI, USA
Suspension rebuild

Well, my steering and general suspension is starting to get old. What would tyhe general consensus be for the price and work involved in instalation of the following -
KYB GR-2 struts/shocks
New tie rods (inner, outter, and sleeves)
New Ball joints (I need these)
I would *like* to -
LCA relocation brackets
Tubular or boxed LCA's (from who?)
Tubular or boxed Panhard Bar (from who?)
Poly Bushings all around (I am thinking from Energy Suspension...)

All this is assuming I decide to keep my car ( am seriously torn between keeping her and getting a truck - I love both choices!!)
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Old May 15, 2002 | 10:12 AM
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From: Neenah Wi.
KYB GR-2s-$100 shipped@ Shock Warehouse
Tie rods -Don't know
Ball joints-under $30@ Autozone
LCA reloc brackets-$65= shipping@Spohn
Lakewood LCA-Around $90@Jegs
Lakewood adj panhard bar-Around $100@Jegs
Bushing kit-$160@P-S-T
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Old May 15, 2002 | 07:08 PM
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hmm... Maybe I should do this in stages...
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Old May 15, 2002 | 09:08 PM
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Tie rods: Inner @ $45 ea, Summit (Moog)
Outer @ $35 ea, Summit (Moog)

Ball joints: $23 ea, Summit (Moog)

Center link: $60, Summit (Moog)

I can understand the "doing it in stages" idea, but in order to get one part out, you will have to go through most of them. For example, if you want to replace your A-arm bushings, you have to loosen or remove the tie rods, separate the ball joints, and separate or take off the struts from the spindle.

Here's my advice: If you need to drive the car regularly, buy the parts a little at a time and do it all at once in a weekend. Just make sure you have all you need
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Old May 15, 2002 | 09:12 PM
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I believe you are on to something there Mr. ebmiller88!!
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Old May 15, 2002 | 09:16 PM
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
On to something, yes...my Iroc is torn apart as we speak doing the same ;D

Just got my KYBs today. GR2 struts, gas a just rears, and 1LE EBC Greenstuff brake pads shipped for @260. (In case you were wondering.) Now I'm ready to put it all back together.
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Old May 15, 2002 | 09:18 PM
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From: Troy, MI, USA
I have heard of those brake pads - dont really remeber what - please post what you think of em after yer done!
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Old May 15, 2002 | 09:20 PM
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Will do. ETA: 1 month
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Old May 16, 2002 | 05:47 PM
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The stages thing is a pain; therefore, I have the PST and KYBs sitting on the bedroom floor. I am trying to find out what springs to lower it a small amount, but keep it level. It has a V6 in it and I have heard that the Pro kit from Eibach will make the front higher than the back.
Anyone know of any springs that will keep it level besides stock? I want some performance from it (cornering, not speed!) and am looking for springs. Anyone.......
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Old May 16, 2002 | 06:30 PM
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From: Neenah Wi.
These are Jamex springs,but they're kinda hard to find anymore..
Attached Thumbnails Suspension rebuild-mvc-022f.jpg  
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Old May 16, 2002 | 06:57 PM
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Hey Jump6pack, you can have my 60,000 mile Iroc springs if you want them. They are code BZW front, and NNL rear. They're right in the middle of the "stiffness" rates on the factory spring chart. I'm replacing them with Eibach Pro-Kits.

Make me an offer.
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Old May 16, 2002 | 07:07 PM
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Another item you may want to look at us the steering box. My worm gears wore out at 130,000. You ca neither find a low mile donor car,or buy one from AGR for around $300.

Lates,
JD
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Old May 16, 2002 | 07:24 PM
  #13  
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From: Troy, MI, USA
sIcK pUpPy, I never even thought about that - you should it wore out?
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Old May 16, 2002 | 07:30 PM
  #14  
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Yup, they don't last forever. They can be adjusted (check your Chiltons), but mine was past that point. Also, the arm will wear out as well. How many miles are on your car? Did you have someone rock the wheel back and forth while you were under the car? It's alot easier to spot faulty parts with the afore mentioned method.

JD
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Old May 16, 2002 | 07:34 PM
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From: Troy, MI, USA
looking at 130,700 about... hmm.... rock the wheel - i'll have to try that next time i am under the car....
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