Suspension and Chassis Questions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?

Wonderbar diementions

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Old Aug 19, 2002 | 07:44 AM
  #1  
91banditt2's Avatar
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From: Cincinnati,Ohio
Car: 1991 BandittII Firebird
Engine: 5.7 HSR
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt
Wonderbar diementions

does any one have the diementions for the Wonderbar?i'm thinking about making my own.
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Old Aug 19, 2002 | 08:40 AM
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well its long enough to go under the front sway bar bolts!!!
and the flat pieces that go under the sway bar bolts are long enough to make the bar itself right inline to the sway (infront of it)

you can make the bar that goes acroos inline to the sway bar any size you want but you will have to weld that piece to the flat pieces that go under the bolts of the sway bar.

heres is global west's piece..

http://www.globalwest.net/camaro93.h...e%20Connectors
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Old Aug 19, 2002 | 10:17 AM
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From: Cincinnati,Ohio
Car: 1991 BandittII Firebird
Engine: 5.7 HSR
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt
i know how and where it bolts up i'm just looking for stuff like how long and how thick is the bar that runs across and what is the thickness of the two plates.
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Old Aug 21, 2002 | 11:10 AM
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Car: 1991 BandittII Firebird
Engine: 5.7 HSR
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt
TTT
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Old Aug 21, 2002 | 01:21 PM
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Well for how long, youll need to get a ruler. It's that simple.

As to how thick, you can't really go too thick. I wouldn't get stuff with 1/16" wall thickness, maybe 1/8" thickness. Home Depot sells steel in their hardware aisle, in 3 foot, 4foot, 6foot, 8foot lengths. That stuff is "mild steel", if you find a steel store that sells chrome moly (sp?), you could use tubing with a thinner wall thickness.
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Old Aug 21, 2002 | 03:02 PM
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I wouldn't get too carried away with the weight though; you're bracing 2 pieces of 10 gauge sheet metal (the "frame"), and holding it on with 2 10mm bolts that merely clamp it. Plus of course, it's dead weight right on the nose of the car, out beyond the front tires, where the car already weighs too much. IMHO the stock one is already more than necessary, they just made it out of what they did because it was cheap. IIRC it's about 10 gauge sheet metal brackets with a couple of spot welds holding a piece of 10 gauge rolled non-welded tubing.

I believe if I was going to make one I'd use a flat piece of sheet metal of about the same gauge as the sway bar bushing shells, and break the edges over to make a "U" channel about ¾" x ½" outer. That would cost more to mass produce than stock, but would be just as strong at about half the weight.
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Old Aug 21, 2002 | 10:27 PM
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From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Then arter MIG welding it in a jig, bead-blast it and send out to powder-coat. You'd wind up with something like this:

Lon Salgren
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Old Aug 22, 2002 | 07:43 AM
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From: Cincinnati,Ohio
Car: 1991 BandittII Firebird
Engine: 5.7 HSR
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt
Lon you want to share?what are the diemension of the two mounting pads?
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Old Aug 22, 2002 | 08:14 AM
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From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
No. Sorry, my tooling and design are all Proprietary. Crawl under your car and measure like I did. Once you've purchsed the steel, designed the bar, cut and machined it, bent it, created the weld jig, MIG welded, bead blasted it and paid for powder coating, you'll discover you didn't even make minimum wage. Of course your labor is free, right? Please understand that this is my livelyhood.

Thanks,

Lon Salgren
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