I had drums on my old RS, but on my new Z28, i have rear disc...

is it the same as front disk? pop off tire, take off caliper, change pads, reassemble and done or what? any info or pics would be great...

:hail:

 

I wasnt to sure so mine is sitting in the shop as we speak. Your parking brake cables also attach back there. The guy told me that the parking brake also has some thing to do with adjusting them as well. One of my cables was rusted tight and I had a caliper sticking. New parking brake cables, 2 new calipers, pads, rotors turned, complete oil flush, and labor. $510.00!!! High, I dont know, but they have taken care off me for years and have always found them to be honest. Plus it is done right and has warranty. If your parking brakes is not working properly your rears are probably not working right either.

 

I hope not, i have a 92 Z28 5.7L TPI G92, with 53,xxx miles on it, and cherry as ****

 

The front caliper accuator piston can be re-depressed with a c-clamp or such. The rears however , the accuator piston needs to be screwed back in. it will not press in. this is a built in safety feature in almost all rear disc brake cars. it allows for the brake pads to still be in position in case of fluid loss so the E-brake will still work.

 

Anyone got any pictures of what im supposed to be screwing in? i know you have to use a c-clamp for front brakes, or is this something that i should be able to see when i get the caliper off ?

some type of special tool to do the screwing ?

 

Well, I got my car back today. Total 539.00. Big difference, I guess it should be for the $s. Moral of the story, Use your parking brake at least a couple times a week.

 

umm how bout ever time you park the car?

 

Ok i got my rotors off and my calipers off, and the pads out of the caliper, but what do i screw in to reset the piston? i went to advance auto parts and got this little cube looking thing with notches all over it that is universal for ford, gm, chyrsler, etc, etc, but im lost as to what gets screwed in ?

any pics or information would help...

 

The round chrome piston Itself needs to be spun clockwise until the piston is all the way back into the caliper. Each rotatation barely does anything so it takes alot of winding to get it back in. There should be indentures in the top of the piston that the tool should fit into. I have always used a set of needle nose pliers that I customised for this job.

 

In my Hayes manual it says stuff like disconnecting things and unscrewing this and that...All im doing is changing pads, to like another stock pad, and i got my rotors turned...

can i just screw the piston back in, without disconnecting anything(my ebrake does work), and just slap the pads in?

 

Anyone?

 

Yes. You don't need to take off the e-brake cable or the brake fluid line to turn down the piston. Just don't permanently bend or kink them in the process. Just pull off the caliper via the 2 allen pins and do the above. Grease the pins before you put them back in and anywhere else the caliper floats against, just dont get grease on the pads and rotors ( you only need a small amount of lube just to moisten the pins and slide areas)

 

AFrikanGoodTime

I really appreciate all your help! I'm going to go home and try it after work again and see what happens, and if i cant figure it out, im going to post pictures of what i see, i just cant foloow the lingo most of the time...i learn stuff on my car as it breaks...

 

I got it figured out, i had to take the slider bar off, used a c-clamp to get the piston back in, mounted the pads, reassembled, gonna take a shower and go try it out!

 

Tony, don't forget, we're talking about two different rear caliper designs. You've got the ones I have, the 82-88's, with the GM safety recall. I rebuilt mine a while ago with the $50 rebuild kit and the difference was amazing; the car actually stopped!