How do Lakewood Lower C.A.'s work???
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,341
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From: Kona, Hawaii / Redlands, CA
Car: 91' RS
Engine: Built 355
Transmission: Probuilt 700r4
How do Lakewood Lower C.A.'s work???
They are very affordable, how much of an improvement over stock? I have wheel hop issues. Do they affect the cornering capabilities that much???
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 484
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From: winter springs, FL
Car: 2006 Pontiac GTO
Transmission: rowing through 6 gears
i went from inconsistant 60' times from 2.0 - 2.3 on street tires to consistant 2.0s on street tires. stock converter and the only suspension work is lakewood CAs and lakewood panhard rod.
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
No they do not. They are simply a square tubing replacement fo the stock parts. It would not be possible to make the brackets as part of the LCAs.
I have those, and Spohn reloc brackets and torque arm; I'd have to say that the single biggest traction improvement came from the reloc brackets. The other parts made a difference, kind of like takign rubber bands out of the suspension; the brackets completely eliminated the car's unbearable wheel hop.
I have those, and Spohn reloc brackets and torque arm; I'd have to say that the single biggest traction improvement came from the reloc brackets. The other parts made a difference, kind of like takign rubber bands out of the suspension; the brackets completely eliminated the car's unbearable wheel hop.
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lakewood rear control arms helped my 1988 formula 350 alot. better lanching and stopped wheel hop in its tracks... for under 100 bucks they are well worth it..
Last edited by MdFormula350; Oct 7, 2002 at 03:49 PM.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,431
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From: Huntsville, AL
Car: '00 Chevrolet Corvette
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Originally posted by MdFormula350
better lanched and stopped wheel hop in its tracks... for under 100 bucks they are well worth it..
better lanched and stopped wheel hop in its tracks... for under 100 bucks they are well worth it..
OK I must be thinking of their traction action lift bars. and everyone else is talking about the stock types. Anyone know anything about these. The standard stock replacement square ones are not what I am interested in.
Thanks
Thanks
Originally posted by Dan94GT
OK I must be thinking of their traction action lift bars. and everyone else is talking about the stock types. Anyone know anything about these. The standard stock replacement square ones are not what I am interested in.
Thanks
OK I must be thinking of their traction action lift bars. and everyone else is talking about the stock types. Anyone know anything about these. The standard stock replacement square ones are not what I am interested in.
Thanks
Oh, 330hp_91RS, yeah they work. They fixed my wheelhop problem. And for only $75!
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
I would not use those, especially on a street car. They are in essence a set of ladder bars. They can't help but bind whenever the wheels are deflected unequally, llike going into driveways or whatever. That's why that type of suspension is so good for drag racing: the car has absolutely no choice but to go in a straight line.
Don't get those, get the stock repacement ones that we're all talking about, and a pair of relocation brackets, and an aftermarket torque arm. I have Spohn TA and reloc brackets in addition to the Lakewood arms, it all fits right, works great, causes no problems, and launches hard. Like I said, the brackets did the most. I had wheel hop from hell, and in addition to that the whole rear of the car would fishtail under power (a 400 with a big roller cam etc.) I first got the LCAs, they tightened things up a bit; then I got the TA, that was like taking a huge rubber band out of the suspension, but the car still fishtailed; then I got the brackets. That completely fixed the entire problem. Now the rear doesn't squat, instead the wheels just dig into the pavement and stay there.
Don't get those, get the stock repacement ones that we're all talking about, and a pair of relocation brackets, and an aftermarket torque arm. I have Spohn TA and reloc brackets in addition to the Lakewood arms, it all fits right, works great, causes no problems, and launches hard. Like I said, the brackets did the most. I had wheel hop from hell, and in addition to that the whole rear of the car would fishtail under power (a 400 with a big roller cam etc.) I first got the LCAs, they tightened things up a bit; then I got the TA, that was like taking a huge rubber band out of the suspension, but the car still fishtailed; then I got the brackets. That completely fixed the entire problem. Now the rear doesn't squat, instead the wheels just dig into the pavement and stay there.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,341
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From: Kona, Hawaii / Redlands, CA
Car: 91' RS
Engine: Built 355
Transmission: Probuilt 700r4
Cool.
How does it affect the cornering capabilities. Make it stiffer/more prone to sliding? I still wanna be able to take the turns with some speed. I have major fishtail issues as well. if my front tires are not all the way straight when I powershift to 2nd, I'm all sideways.
How much are the relocation brackets and where can I get them??? Are they simply a bolt on procedure?
How much are the relocation brackets and where can I get them??? Are they simply a bolt on procedure?
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
It seems to improve cornering, especially forward bite. Doesn't seem to affect side bite or front/rear bias at all.
The brackets are absolutely NOT a bolt-in. They require welding. But, the welding is quite simple; it's the kind of thing any muffler shop should be able to do, for less than $50.
I got mine from Spohn, sponsor at the top of this page. They're about $65 IIRC.
The brackets are absolutely NOT a bolt-in. They require welding. But, the welding is quite simple; it's the kind of thing any muffler shop should be able to do, for less than $50.
I got mine from Spohn, sponsor at the top of this page. They're about $65 IIRC.
Last edited by RB83L69; Oct 9, 2002 at 01:59 PM.
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Joined: Oct 1999
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From: W. Kentucky
Car: 83 Z-28
Engine: 406
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.70
Originally posted by RB83L69
I have Spohn TA and reloc brackets in addition to the Lakewood arms, it all fits right, works great, causes no problems, and launches hard. Like I said, the brackets did the most. I had wheel hop from hell, and in addition to that the whole rear of the car would fishtail under power (a 400 with a big roller cam etc.) I first got the LCAs, they tightened things up a bit; then I got the TA, that was like taking a huge rubber band out of the suspension, but the car still fishtailed; then I got the brackets. That completely fixed the entire problem. Now the rear doesn't squat, instead the wheels just dig into the pavement and stay there.
I have Spohn TA and reloc brackets in addition to the Lakewood arms, it all fits right, works great, causes no problems, and launches hard. Like I said, the brackets did the most. I had wheel hop from hell, and in addition to that the whole rear of the car would fishtail under power (a 400 with a big roller cam etc.) I first got the LCAs, they tightened things up a bit; then I got the TA, that was like taking a huge rubber band out of the suspension, but the car still fishtailed; then I got the brackets. That completely fixed the entire problem. Now the rear doesn't squat, instead the wheels just dig into the pavement and stay there.
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