Well the title prettymuch says it all. I had a leak in one, I fixed that and rebleed that line. But now they are real soft. I mean the brakes wont lock up and I dont get any significant brakes until its to the floor. Not sure if it is significant but when I go to pump the brakes I get a whooshing sound. And when I bled the one line instead of the fluid shooting out, it just kind of dribbled out.

As for the rattling. The rear rattles wen I go over bumps unless I have the brakes on. I am guessing it is the rotor or caliper.

Any of this make sense to anyone? Should I try and rebleed all the brakes? See if that helps?

 

my front brake rattles and sounds like crap over bumps, still havent determined the cause of it, but people tell me that my caliper needs a new bushing kit because the rubber o-rings are rotted out, but i was plannin on gettin rebuilt calipers for 12$ each from autozone...

 

So when you say "new brakes" what exactly do you mean? New pads?


And after you changed whichever part you changed, you noticed a leak? Where was the leak? How did you fix it?

After I get some history, I'll be better able to help you out.,

 

My rear disc brakes rattle over bumps... Its caused by not having the proper clips to hold the brake pad still when the brakes aren't applied... Same issue for the front pads (notably the inboard side).

 

When I saw new brakes I mean new calipers, new lines after the t split and new pads.

As far as the leak it was and I believe now still is leaking from one of 2 places. Either between the junction box and the caliper, or between the banjo bolt head and the junction box.

I basically replaced the entire rear brakes when I put the new rear in except for the caliper mounting bracket. Not sure if it matters or not but I also just pulled out the drivers side axle and had a new bearing pressed on.

Chris

 

Well I did fix the leak, think I over tightene it the first time.

And as for the rattling, the rubber grommets that go between the caliper and the bolts came out on one of them so that should fix the problem. Didn't get a chance to test driver her yet.

 

i still havent gotten around to gettin those damn grommets...lol

 

$12 sounds way to cheap to me, even for rebuilds. Especially for your front brakes since they do much of the braking.

I got my rear calipers for $100 a piece. And they arent anything special.

 

ok...I have rear drums so I don't know alot about rear disc, but i can tell you this:

I just replaced my lines with the stainless braided ones and it was a btch to bleed the lines after getting all that air in. Also I had a hard time b/c I think I got some air in my master cylinder b/c I had some difficulty getting the new lines connected and lost too much fluid.

More than likely, this prob explains how 'soft' your brakes feel.

As for the rattling.....you say it rattles on bumps unless you have the brakes applied. I'd go w/ thirdgen88 and guess that it was lack of or old anti-rattle clips.


I'm not sure about your axle. I would definatley re-evaluate your anti-rattle clips (new ones if you don't), and try rebleeding again. I had to pump like 40 times per side and refill the master every 15 pumps or so. Check all your bolts too and make sure that everything is nice and snug.

If that doesn't solve the softness, have a garage power bleed your system.

If that doesn't solve the rattle, investigate your axle more.

On a side note, alot (I mean alot) of people w/ factory rear disc had problems getting their rear brakes to function well b/c they all had the wrong prop valve. They all had prop valves for rear drum/front disc from the factory. Yeah...oops from the general. You can find a whole pant-load of material on the subject here if you search.

good luck

 

www.speedbleeder.com

get thoes, and bleed your brakes.. it makes it a 15-20 min, one person job for all four wheels.

 

I got one better for ya: http://www.brakebleeder.com - check out the V12 model. http://www.toolparadise.com has it for $86- I paid $150 for mine (V12, with smart pak and red carrying case). That tool is Freakin' Awesome!! Talk about a fast bleed. AND the video that comes with it shows you a plexiglass copy of the GM quick-takeup master cylinder (our m/c) and where air gets trapped and how to get the air out.

But; I'm confused. What brakes are we talking about? The front discs or rear discs? The phoenix injector allows you to pressure bleed the whole system, just like the GM service boys can do. If there's air anywhere in the system, that tool will get it out for ya. OR just have a real tire/suspension shop (not Sears or Pep Boys or even Midas!) do a pressure bleed for you. They'll have the "real guy", one that runs off of compressed air, and it should be only an hour's labor to put the thing on the lift, put the tool on, and bleed out all 4 wheels.

 

This is same thing I had posted about a few days ago. So is it rotted rubber grommets that cause the jingleing, or worn/missing clips?

 

Well I posted a few days ago that I fixed the rattleing (the grommets were no longer between the caliper and the bolts). There are no sounds now when I go over any bumps. Though I do believe I still have some air in the system.

Oh and we are talking about the rear brakes.

I bought the speedbleeders but couldn't get them to work (but I didnt give them much of a chance). I was planning on rebleeding the entire system, perhaps bringing it someone to have them pressure bleed them.

 

Don't buy "speedbleeders" (Russell made product) they will leak (suck air) through the teflon threads after one use. Earl's "solo-bleeds" are a much better product. I have them on every car I own. I can bleed and one of my car's systems by myself in under 10 mins.

Rear iron caliper factory brakes do not have rear anti-rattle clips- only the fronts do. Apply stop squeak "goo" on the backing plates of both inner and outer pads and the rattle will go away.

Go to a 1LE proprtioning valve- GM # 14089496 for your '88 car- the stock valve is terrible.

 

The rears always cost about 10X what the fronts do. Supply and demand.