Does anyone know what the tool for the idler arm install is, and, where to get it? I can't get my idler arm to be closer with the centerlink. There's about a 1/4" gap, and I tried to "press" it on by torquing the nut on, and backing it off and repeating, but I can't get it any closer than the 1/4" gap without exceeding the torque specs. The idler arm I took off was flush.

I've read that there's no special tool required to install the idler arm, after doing a search, but I don't believe it. TomP mentioned a J tool in his post, but I'm not sure what was eventually used.

Thanks,

 

umm... I just did this few weeks back and didn't need any special tool :shrug:

you know there is supposed to be a seal on top of the center link right ? maybe that fell off and that could be that 1/4" you're talking about

pics would help

 

http://www.fl-thirdgen.org/idlerarm.html

 

Sorry, I don't have a digicam to take pics. I ended up leaving the gap. The seal is there, but was majorly compressed by my previous idler arm. I just slapped it back on and filled the rather big gaps with grease. I guess I'll need to find a new seal soon. You wouldn't happen to know if they are sold separately from the centerlink, would you? The idler arm I got didn't come with a replacement seal, strangely.

 

get in the zone... AUTOZONE has them , lol

you have to find a competent counter kid though, someone who's been there more than 2 weeks , otherwise they'll tell you they don't have them ;-)

 

and yeah my idler arm didn't come with a seal either , I think that seal is part of the center link but you would think they would include it with the idler arm too since the pickle fork will damage it but nooo that would make sense :-/ (yeah I know you aren't supposed to use pickle fork on that but I just had to try , mess up the seal and then go buy the right puller and a new seal :-D that's the shadetree mechanic way :-D )

 

I think I figured out what that J-tool was that I mentioned. The GM Shop Manual said to use them to seat the tapers... then to remove them, and install the regular nuts. They looked like a tall nut... almost like a wheel lug.

I think that these probably -were- just long nuts. With the extra threads in the nut, it probably allows for less "possible" damage to the threads while seating the joint. Know what I mean? Say the nut is 1/4 inch high, but these J-tools were an inch high. The J-tools would use all of the threads of the stud instead of just 1/4 inch's worth. I just used the new nut to seat the taper, no problem.

The washer was just a piece of foam, maybe 1/8th inch thick.. you could probably make your own. And this came with the Moog centerlink... if it was supposed to be rubber or something, I doubt Moog would've used cheaper material. My Moog idler arm only came with a new nut (non-castellated "crimped end" style) and a grease fitting. I used the castellated nut that came with the center link.

 

I replaced mine 2 weeks ago....

the bolt on the new idler arm was rotating while the nut was turned with a wrench, but a C-clamp was all that was needed to keep it steady while the nut was torqued in. Make sure you grease it after installation.