welding in BMR's bolt in LCA brackets
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From: Bay Area, Ca
Car: 1995
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: T-56
welding in BMR's bolt in LCA brackets
do i need to align anything, or do i just bolt it in and weld it up. i mean if i bolt it in, and mount the shock and LCA then isn't it in the right spot already. just weld around the edges.
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Joined: Jan 2003
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Car: 91 z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
That is why you buy the BMR "bolt in " brackets and then weld them if yo wish. There is no need to measure anything. They are a little more expensive than the weld in type but IMO well worth the money.
Last edited by jeffsbluez; Aug 21, 2003 at 10:45 AM.
Actually, our weld in brackets do have locators, the full length back plate (others don't have this). It's actually a very simple install, you slide our bracket over the OEM bracket, you make the inside of our black plate tight and flush against the outside of the OEM bracket back....that's it.
I've probably installed over 50 pair myself, always use the above method, and when I connect the LCAs to the bottom hole and take some measurements, the rear is dead square.
On the other hand, if you have a bolt-in type bracket that has a positive locator (the bottom shock mount), and you install them and take your measurements and your rear is not square, you have no way of adjusting the brackets unless you cut off the extension that goes to the shock bolt. You can't just trust the bolt in bracket, you should always measure if your rear is square. Your factory mounts could be off, their bracket could be off, your car could be tweaked, etc.
With a weld in bracket, you can just tap it front or back if it's needed.
Steve
I've probably installed over 50 pair myself, always use the above method, and when I connect the LCAs to the bottom hole and take some measurements, the rear is dead square.
On the other hand, if you have a bolt-in type bracket that has a positive locator (the bottom shock mount), and you install them and take your measurements and your rear is not square, you have no way of adjusting the brackets unless you cut off the extension that goes to the shock bolt. You can't just trust the bolt in bracket, you should always measure if your rear is square. Your factory mounts could be off, their bracket could be off, your car could be tweaked, etc.
With a weld in bracket, you can just tap it front or back if it's needed.
Steve
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From: kansas
Car: '88 Camaro
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700R4
i had a problem with this too, and i just ended up buying the bolt-ons instead. i doubt the shock mounts or the brackets would be off much if any. if it did cause a problem, at least you didnt weld them in, and they are still removeable. it sounds like the spohn brackets would work well too. i had the brm weld-on, and supposedly you weld the back side of the bracket....but it doesnt line up so theres no safe way to install it correctly that i could figure out. their instructions are horrible too. you cant just throw em on there and weld. if you did, you would run a high risk of your rear end being off-center....and i think you know where that would lead.
Last edited by AFatHippo; Aug 31, 2003 at 10:07 PM.
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From: Mostly in water off So. Cal
Car: '87 Chev
Engine: 60*V6
Transmission: DY T700
BMR will only work with ADJUSTABLE LCA's when the car is lowered. Lower stance causes the pinion to be rotated up to correct the angle- this will cause the rear wheels to move back in the rear fenderwells. Adjustable lca's will shorten and bring the wheelbase back to stock location, also seating the trans yoke to a good depth.
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From: The State of Hockey
Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: Miniram'd 383, 24X LS1 PCM
Transmission: TH700R4, 4200 stall
Axle/Gears: 9", 4.33:1
An adjustable Torque Arm will also allow you to correct the geometry 2.8 speaks of....
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