What will I break
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,028
Likes: 78
From: Desert
Car: 1991 Z28 Vert
Engine: 383 single plane efi
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 8.8 with 3.73s
What will I break
I have a 92 5.0L 5spd camaro rs. I plan on making a 450-600 horse power 305. I am wondering "What all will I break?" With just cylinder heads exhaust and ignition we have already had to rebuild the transmission and probably have to rebuild the rear end soon. So, please, any suggestions on what to replace and what to replace it with. ie rear end, torque arm, control arms. that stuff. Thanks
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From: SW Chicago 'burbs
Car: American Iron Firebird
Engine: The little 305 that could.
Transmission: Richmond T-10
Axle/Gears: Floater 9" - 3.64 gears
Re: What will I break
Originally posted by Tibo
I am wondering "What all will I break?"
I am wondering "What all will I break?"
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,149
Likes: 1
From: Gladstone, Missouri
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 5.0L TBI (ebl inside)
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 lsd 10 bolt
Re: What will I break
Originally posted by Tibo
I have a 92 5.0L 5spd camaro rs. I plan on making a 450-600 horse power 305.
I have a 92 5.0L 5spd camaro rs. I plan on making a 450-600 horse power 305.
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,866
Likes: 5
From: Salem, NH
Car: 1999 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.23 10 Bolt
well a naturally aspirated 305 will not create that power and be streetable. but a nitrous injected or forced inducted one could very well do that. misterjuices car has 391 rwhp so thats like 460 crank hp. its a pretty stock 305 TPI, runs 14s NA. its got an ATI procharger on it that he runs up to 19#s of boost. so considering hes getting around 460 without any internal work; heads, cam, induction. i think its possible to hit 500hp with forced induction. naturally aspirated for get it
*an attempt to actually help*
Running alot of power does not mean you are going to break suspension components. Like you said, the weak links will be the tranny and rear end. As far as the suspension/chassis/brakes goes you need to make sure you give the car enough support to handle that much power. Starting with the chassis, you definately want a set of Sub Frame Connectors (SFC's). You can add extra strength in the front with a Strut Tower Bar (STB) or a Wonderbar, but adding those depends on if you feel loosness/weakness in the front end. As for the suspension, what you use (springs/shocks/struts) will really depend on what kind of racing you're doing. If the car is rolling on the OEM suspension, you definately want to think about replacing all the bushings ($130 for the kit) as they are probably shot. And there is a good chance the springs/shocks/struts are old and blown so you would want to replace those as well. And as for brakes, again what you do with the car might warrant an upgrade. At the least put on some nice pads and new fluid.
But none of this stuff will break from too much power. Its just a good idea to take care of this stuff as they will support all the power you make (or plan to make).
Running alot of power does not mean you are going to break suspension components. Like you said, the weak links will be the tranny and rear end. As far as the suspension/chassis/brakes goes you need to make sure you give the car enough support to handle that much power. Starting with the chassis, you definately want a set of Sub Frame Connectors (SFC's). You can add extra strength in the front with a Strut Tower Bar (STB) or a Wonderbar, but adding those depends on if you feel loosness/weakness in the front end. As for the suspension, what you use (springs/shocks/struts) will really depend on what kind of racing you're doing. If the car is rolling on the OEM suspension, you definately want to think about replacing all the bushings ($130 for the kit) as they are probably shot. And there is a good chance the springs/shocks/struts are old and blown so you would want to replace those as well. And as for brakes, again what you do with the car might warrant an upgrade. At the least put on some nice pads and new fluid.
But none of this stuff will break from too much power. Its just a good idea to take care of this stuff as they will support all the power you make (or plan to make).
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,028
Likes: 78
From: Desert
Car: 1991 Z28 Vert
Engine: 383 single plane efi
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 8.8 with 3.73s
here's how
For all you doughters out there who had those funny comments, here is my situation. My best friend and his father own a shop that builds custom cars for people. I work at this shop. Since I work there I get dealership discounts and help on my car. Here is a dealership discount example: I bought World Torquer S/R cylinder hads for 600 dollars for an assembled pair brand new. Flowmaster three inch American Thunder exhaust and 3 inch cat for 350, complete, brand new. Oh Yeah, did I mention that that price includes next day freight? That's how I won't "break my wallet."
So, for the engine. Fuel injection will be a Holley Stealth Ram tunnel ram with the 40 pph injectors with a ram/cowl induction hood. If you want details on that system go to www.holley.com it is an awesome setup. World cylider heads with 1.94 inch intake. Accel Ignition. Flowmaster exhaust from above. Heddman headers. Fuel pump. Camshaft with a little lope to it. We are considering one that has the same profile as the L-88 corvette did. Of course it will have high compression flat top pistons. Maybe Kieth Blacks. Mill the deck for some additional compression. Bore and stroke it out to a 331 or close. Aluminum driveshaft.
Thanks for the help and please tell me what you dont think will work or what I might break. Any suggestions are always welcome. So somebody start making some funny comments again please.
So, for the engine. Fuel injection will be a Holley Stealth Ram tunnel ram with the 40 pph injectors with a ram/cowl induction hood. If you want details on that system go to www.holley.com it is an awesome setup. World cylider heads with 1.94 inch intake. Accel Ignition. Flowmaster exhaust from above. Heddman headers. Fuel pump. Camshaft with a little lope to it. We are considering one that has the same profile as the L-88 corvette did. Of course it will have high compression flat top pistons. Maybe Kieth Blacks. Mill the deck for some additional compression. Bore and stroke it out to a 331 or close. Aluminum driveshaft.
Thanks for the help and please tell me what you dont think will work or what I might break. Any suggestions are always welcome. So somebody start making some funny comments again please.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 13,753
Likes: 560
From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
That is a nice set-up but you will still need a SERIOUS cam and TUNING and some sort of CRAZY power adder to get to your goal. I think you are setting yourself up for dissapointment. If money isn't an issue I would have that shop score you a 350 block and build up the bottom end to handle the repeated abuse that kind of power will put on that motor. Heck even a 383 will make your goal easier. If you plan on spraying or adding any boost you will need forged internals or you will have problems in the long run and surely break a rod and or blow something up. Not to mention is you bore a 305 .030 over you will seriously be putting your block at risk of failure. You don't leave much meat between the water passages and such. If you run slicks, bye bye 10 bolt. 3rd gens and 4th gens alike snap these rears once they make serious power and use slicks and or drag radials. You are also going to need to have a 3 stage port job on those heads and run bigger valves. You will also have to ditch that flowmaster because it is prooven to flow less than other cat-backs out there. If I were you I would shoot for 350hp N/A. You will need about 390 rear wheel HP to make 450 at the crank. There are full heads and cammed LS1's with full exhaust and tuning that barely do that.
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,866
Likes: 5
From: Salem, NH
Car: 1999 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.23 10 Bolt
lol, sorry but im into 305s a bit and im not even that delusional. if u dont trust us on here go about and do ur own thing, then prove us all wrong with some dyno sheets and track slips. basically if u dont want constructive criticisim dont post threads like this. i can already tell ull be lucky to make 310hp when its done. an HSR is wayyy to much for a 305. the only instance i see it being used is with forced induction, since with the LTR TPI setup the torque will be so great that street traction will suck, so to take away the unusable torque and convert it to high rpm hp an hsr can be used, it will help make a much more usable power band. but like i said if u all sure about what u want go for it.
if you insist on a small motor i would go the 302 route. 4 inch bore and 3 inch stroke. You will get better durability at high rpm and the full selection of small block heads to take advantage of. That said you will still need a power adder to break 400HP in anything roughly drivable. If you have so many resources just build a 383. Use your discounts to get a scat or eagle stroker kit ( cast steel if your on a budget) and some decent heads like afr or top proline. It will still be cheaper to build a 383 with a power adder than a 305 with one. There are numerous 350 combo's in the mags that make 400hp with a flat tappet cam and vortec heads. Anyhow i'm rambling now. Look at the engine board for a more detailed combination of parts. I sincerely believe you will be very dissapointed and broke if you go the 305 route and expect 400 plus HP.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,028
Likes: 78
From: Desert
Car: 1991 Z28 Vert
Engine: 383 single plane efi
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 8.8 with 3.73s
reasons for keeping the 305
About the 350. The camaro has the 25'th anniversary Heritage package, so I think keeping the 305 block inside of the car would be a good idea for shows. I want to keep the 305 because really, who wants to try to run a 305 for all she's got. I do. A 350 would make the job easier, but not as challenging. Yes I will be useing shop-penned, forged and hardened rods, cranks, pistons, all that I can. Copper gaskets, the works. If you want to talk about magazines, pick up a mustang magazine and look how much power the 302 guys are putting out.
Which brings up another reason for keeping the 305. To show mustangs that you don't need 50 more cubic inches to beat a mustang. Remember, 450 is a goal. If I can achieve it, it won't be easy. Also, for whoever said that my exhaust system wouldn't work, what other systems would be better and why do you say that. Also, Why go with a different set of heads, at that rate the Vortecs? The intake and exhaust valves are almost identical. Do the Vortecs compress the chamber more then the World's do? And What would you suggest to replace the 10 bolt with?
Keep the suggestions coming. Thanks
Which brings up another reason for keeping the 305. To show mustangs that you don't need 50 more cubic inches to beat a mustang. Remember, 450 is a goal. If I can achieve it, it won't be easy. Also, for whoever said that my exhaust system wouldn't work, what other systems would be better and why do you say that. Also, Why go with a different set of heads, at that rate the Vortecs? The intake and exhaust valves are almost identical. Do the Vortecs compress the chamber more then the World's do? And What would you suggest to replace the 10 bolt with?
Keep the suggestions coming. Thanks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 13,753
Likes: 560
From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
The Ford 302 is completely different than the GM 305. The ford has a 4" bore, comes from the factory with forged internals, and the list goes on. They make more power making potential than a 305 period, not to mention the weight differences among certain models. This is from a GM guy to, no flames inteneded. Ford did their homework on that motor and it is always in the list in mags about "best v8's of all times." I've yet to see a 305 in the running.
Even if you do hit 400hp on your 305 buildup, it will be so high in the rpm range that the thing will not get out of its own wieght until 3500 rpms. I love my lil' 305 but I have ridden in "built" 305 with heads, cam, gears, tuning and fuel and it still couldn't beat my LT1 which is bone stock.
For a NA 305 the world heads are fine and I planned on buying a set. But those heads will never support the kind of power you are looking for. I have heard that they use a stock GM casting and slightly improve it. Nothing to get excited about. Good for a 305 but thats it. I was hoping for around 260hp with an LT4 cam and mildly ported SR toquer heads. I would have been thrilled with that and couldn't wait to do it. I love my 305 to and want it to be a deamon. It just takes having a friend with an everything but the kichen sink 305, me with a '95 LT1 and a 305, and my roomate with an 02' LS1 to realize that the 305 isn't even in the same league. And I am talking about the built one. Our cars aren't even modded yet!
About the exhaust. Flowmasters sound good but that is about it. It has been proven (in various published flow tests) that they are by far from the best. Hooker, Borla, randon tech and a few others flowed so much more it was embarasing. They are fine for a 305 that is making 200 to 250 hp but no way can it support 600 hp. Don't get me wrong it is still a 3" exhuast and better than stock but you would not be getting the most out of your set-up. Were aren't trying to be mean here but there are many people on this board like you that have "built" 305's and they are still in the 14's.
For 450 to 600 hp with slicks you need a 9" rear or a 12 bolt. Go to ls1.com or camaroz28.com and see what set-ups guys run over there. There are tons of posts of guys grenading their rears once they run slicks.
I would seriously use your connection to get a built forged 383 with afr heads and than go with your holley set-up. That is way cooler than a 305 in a 25th aniversary car.
Even if you do hit 400hp on your 305 buildup, it will be so high in the rpm range that the thing will not get out of its own wieght until 3500 rpms. I love my lil' 305 but I have ridden in "built" 305 with heads, cam, gears, tuning and fuel and it still couldn't beat my LT1 which is bone stock.
For a NA 305 the world heads are fine and I planned on buying a set. But those heads will never support the kind of power you are looking for. I have heard that they use a stock GM casting and slightly improve it. Nothing to get excited about. Good for a 305 but thats it. I was hoping for around 260hp with an LT4 cam and mildly ported SR toquer heads. I would have been thrilled with that and couldn't wait to do it. I love my 305 to and want it to be a deamon. It just takes having a friend with an everything but the kichen sink 305, me with a '95 LT1 and a 305, and my roomate with an 02' LS1 to realize that the 305 isn't even in the same league. And I am talking about the built one. Our cars aren't even modded yet!
About the exhaust. Flowmasters sound good but that is about it. It has been proven (in various published flow tests) that they are by far from the best. Hooker, Borla, randon tech and a few others flowed so much more it was embarasing. They are fine for a 305 that is making 200 to 250 hp but no way can it support 600 hp. Don't get me wrong it is still a 3" exhuast and better than stock but you would not be getting the most out of your set-up. Were aren't trying to be mean here but there are many people on this board like you that have "built" 305's and they are still in the 14's.
For 450 to 600 hp with slicks you need a 9" rear or a 12 bolt. Go to ls1.com or camaroz28.com and see what set-ups guys run over there. There are tons of posts of guys grenading their rears once they run slicks.
I would seriously use your connection to get a built forged 383 with afr heads and than go with your holley set-up. That is way cooler than a 305 in a 25th aniversary car.
If you want to do something cool then build a chevy 302. But the 305 has too many shortcomings for what you want to do. The block is weak, the bore is small. You will need an aftermarket block anyhow. you will also need big rpm to make power but the small bore and lack of cylinder heads will stop you from making that high rpm power. the torquer heads are junk compared to even the vortec production heads which are cheaper . Please don't take offense to this but i see in your profile that you are around 20 or so. You sound alot like i did at that age but you have much to learn. I recognize that is what you are doing by posting to these boards, you should heed that advice of the people on this board who have much much more experience. Take your enthusiasm and great attitude toward a challenge and keep learning. I'm still learning too, one thing i have learned is that since the SBC has been around for 48 years there isn't much that hasn't been done and what works is well known.
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,866
Likes: 5
From: Salem, NH
Car: 1999 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.23 10 Bolt
shifty-- take a look at my sig, 13.952 with basic mods and now potential for mid 13s with traction. 3mph gain from a 20 dollar LT1 cam and a 200 dollar 3.27 rearend. 305s with the 5spd are easy to get quick. tim burgess's 92 Z28 305TPI 5spd witha cam and ported LB9 heads does a 12.7 @ 109 at sea level thats nuthin to bark out.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 13,753
Likes: 560
From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
Originally posted by SLP IROC-Z
shifty-- take a look at my sig, 13.952 with basic mods and now potential for mid 13s with traction. 3mph gain from a 20 dollar LT1 cam and a 200 dollar 3.27 rearend. 305s with the 5spd are easy to get quick. tim burgess's 92 Z28 305TPI 5spd witha cam and ported LB9 heads does a 12.7 @ 109 at sea level thats nuthin to bark out.
shifty-- take a look at my sig, 13.952 with basic mods and now potential for mid 13s with traction. 3mph gain from a 20 dollar LT1 cam and a 200 dollar 3.27 rearend. 305s with the 5spd are easy to get quick. tim burgess's 92 Z28 305TPI 5spd witha cam and ported LB9 heads does a 12.7 @ 109 at sea level thats nuthin to bark out.
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,204
Likes: 7
From: New Boston, IL, USA
Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
SFCs- You'll more than likey need SFC's or you're gonna twist the body like a pretzel.
Wonderbar- if it doesn't have one might as well add one. It will help reenforce the front end and hopefully keep anything up front from twisting to much
adjustable LCAs- You'll probably need a set of them cause you might flex the stock crappy stamped OEM ones (esp since you'll probably use slicks) adjustable ones will help if you decide to change tire sizes
LCA brackets- might as well throw them on so you can adjust your LCA angle... should give you a little more tuning to combat wheel hop
For rearend definitly not a 10 bolt.... (hehe) Probably look at a Moser. They make some nice bolt on ones designed for our cars...
Main thing is to remember spend money where it needs to be spent. Doesn't help if people dump 15k into a motor and the rest of chassis is junk... kind of like that article in popular hot rodding last year where one guy built a twin turbo vette it put out around 1300 hp!! but only ran 11.5s cause he was spinning up to 1/8 mile mark still ran over 145 mph... but it had a lot more potential.
Wonderbar- if it doesn't have one might as well add one. It will help reenforce the front end and hopefully keep anything up front from twisting to much
adjustable LCAs- You'll probably need a set of them cause you might flex the stock crappy stamped OEM ones (esp since you'll probably use slicks) adjustable ones will help if you decide to change tire sizes
LCA brackets- might as well throw them on so you can adjust your LCA angle... should give you a little more tuning to combat wheel hop
For rearend definitly not a 10 bolt.... (hehe) Probably look at a Moser. They make some nice bolt on ones designed for our cars...
Main thing is to remember spend money where it needs to be spent. Doesn't help if people dump 15k into a motor and the rest of chassis is junk... kind of like that article in popular hot rodding last year where one guy built a twin turbo vette it put out around 1300 hp!! but only ran 11.5s cause he was spinning up to 1/8 mile mark still ran over 145 mph... but it had a lot more potential.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,028
Likes: 78
From: Desert
Car: 1991 Z28 Vert
Engine: 383 single plane efi
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 8.8 with 3.73s
ideas
Since most of you donot think that this is achievable by me, What do you think that I will achieve. Whether it be times or power ratings, I'd like your prediction. You all seem to have good suggestions for the 305 engine. So if you don't mind, please e-mail me your ideas of a 305 to build and what you would use or do. Remember that money is not too much of a problem. Who knows, maybe I'll have some things for sale if I like your ideas. Keep the suggestions coming. Thanks.
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,866
Likes: 5
From: Salem, NH
Car: 1999 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.23 10 Bolt
im gonna say on a car that is daily driven and gets acceptable gas mileage, 330-350hp NA. now a blower, nitrous, turbo. are options and can considerabley increase power. nitrous being the easiest/best way gas mileage and street usage wise. turbo in 2nd because of its efficiency and a blower last. all hve their ups and downs. ill let the others share their views..
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