NO BREAKS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
NO BRAKES !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
while driving into work this morning i relized (right as i tried to slow down for a sharp turn) that it's time to work on my breaks
especial seen as how as of 822 this morning i have none %^)
so what upgrades if any can i do for under the 300 i have in my pocket
91 3.1 firebird
front disk rear drum
I've been searching all morning
but all i get is the le1 @ ls1 info
especial seen as how as of 822 this morning i have none %^)
so what upgrades if any can i do for under the 300 i have in my pocket
91 3.1 firebird
front disk rear drum
I've been searching all morning
but all i get is the le1 @ ls1 info
Last edited by confucius101; Oct 15, 2003 at 08:46 AM.
I switched from Perf Friction Carbon Metallics (Crap) to Bendix Titanium Metallics (p/n MKD154) and found a huge improvement. I actually think my brakes are 'good' now. (disk/drum)
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 6
From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
LOL, Steve!
1. Yes, quality pads. I've used Bendix MKD-154's since I got my car in 1994, before they were "titanium coated", and they work great. ~$30.
2. Replace all your brake hoses with new ones. Two front, one rear. ~$50
3. New rotors- your originals are probably paper thin, and aren't dissipating heat well anymore. Heat = no brakes! If your wheel bearings don't show heat damage or scoring, you can re-use them; or buy new- they're cheap enough. Pack them with synthetic grease. ~$5 front grease seals, ~$5 tube of synthetic. Wild guesses: ~$100/rotor set, ~$30/bearings.
4. Buy a $20 Mityvac and a few bottles of brake fluid. Before you change your hoses, flush the system with new brake fluid. Brake fluid is hydroscopic; it absorbs fluid. Old brake fluid = absorbed a lot of water = lowered boiling point = no brakes. Procedure basically is, raise car, remove tires, siphon old fluid out of m/c, leave a bit in the bottom holes, wipe sides of m/c clean with a rag (not paper towel), fill m/c with new fluid. Work at one wheel at a time, start at rear, loosen bleeder screw, attach mityvac, suck old fluid out until mityvac tubes show new fluid. Have friend keep watch on m/c to make sure BOTH reservoirs stay full with new fluid. When you pull new fluid thru, shut bleeder screw, and move to next rear wheel. Then go to your front wheels. Don't touch the brake pedal during all of this and you won't get air in the system. After flushing, then replace your brake hoses. http://www.eastwoodcompany.com (do a quick-search for Mityvac) or http://www.toolparadise.com (choose Mityvac from drop-down list) if you can't find a mityvac locally... they have a few different kinds, from an expensive do-it-all master kit to a basic brake bleeder. ~$50
5. Replace rear drum shoes, and inspect wheel cylinders; replace cylinders if necessary.
1. Yes, quality pads. I've used Bendix MKD-154's since I got my car in 1994, before they were "titanium coated", and they work great. ~$30.
2. Replace all your brake hoses with new ones. Two front, one rear. ~$50
3. New rotors- your originals are probably paper thin, and aren't dissipating heat well anymore. Heat = no brakes! If your wheel bearings don't show heat damage or scoring, you can re-use them; or buy new- they're cheap enough. Pack them with synthetic grease. ~$5 front grease seals, ~$5 tube of synthetic. Wild guesses: ~$100/rotor set, ~$30/bearings.
4. Buy a $20 Mityvac and a few bottles of brake fluid. Before you change your hoses, flush the system with new brake fluid. Brake fluid is hydroscopic; it absorbs fluid. Old brake fluid = absorbed a lot of water = lowered boiling point = no brakes. Procedure basically is, raise car, remove tires, siphon old fluid out of m/c, leave a bit in the bottom holes, wipe sides of m/c clean with a rag (not paper towel), fill m/c with new fluid. Work at one wheel at a time, start at rear, loosen bleeder screw, attach mityvac, suck old fluid out until mityvac tubes show new fluid. Have friend keep watch on m/c to make sure BOTH reservoirs stay full with new fluid. When you pull new fluid thru, shut bleeder screw, and move to next rear wheel. Then go to your front wheels. Don't touch the brake pedal during all of this and you won't get air in the system. After flushing, then replace your brake hoses. http://www.eastwoodcompany.com (do a quick-search for Mityvac) or http://www.toolparadise.com (choose Mityvac from drop-down list) if you can't find a mityvac locally... they have a few different kinds, from an expensive do-it-all master kit to a basic brake bleeder. ~$50
5. Replace rear drum shoes, and inspect wheel cylinders; replace cylinders if necessary.
Last edited by TomP; Oct 14, 2003 at 06:46 PM.
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Originally posted by Steve89GTA
You should speak to your boss about not having a break. In Canada, we get a mandatory break every 4 hours of work.
Unless of course you're talking about 'brakes'.
You should speak to your boss about not having a break. In Canada, we get a mandatory break every 4 hours of work.
Unless of course you're talking about 'brakes'.
LMAO thanks steve you just made my morning
ok guy's thanks for the info.......
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