Suspension and Chassis Questions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?

Front LCA's

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Old Nov 17, 2003 | 03:41 PM
  #1  
hitman's Avatar
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From: Houston
Car: 1992 25th Ann. Z28
Engine: 5.7 TPI - Stock
Transmission: th700 r4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Front LCA's

On a scale from 1 - 10.. what is the level of difficulty in changing the bushings? Is this something a novice can do?
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Old Nov 17, 2003 | 08:08 PM
  #2  
RB83L69's Avatar
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Yes, it's really quite easy.

Step 1: go to the junkyard and buy a used set. They're real cheap, because the same ones fit some other cars; Cutlass, Monte Carlo, Chevelle, etc.

Step 2: buy a set of bushings of your choice.

Step 3: take them to your local tire store on Sat afternoon about 15 minutes before closing time, and slip him a $20 to swap them for you.

Step 4: swap the renewed ones onto your car.

I can think of very few jobs that are a worse hassle, without the right tools, which consist of an air chisel in this case. If you have one of those, they're only a minor PITA; but without one, it's a genuinely unpleasant experience.
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Old Nov 18, 2003 | 08:31 PM
  #3  
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From: Evansville,IN,USA
Car: 89' T/A, 00' Firehawk
Engine: 406 Roller
Transmission: TH700R4 w/2800 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Posi
are you kiddin me? Its a PITA not to mention very dangerous especially if you don't know what you are doing. The spring can/will come out and knock the holy **** out of you or worse. Not a job for a novice IMO. I'm a mechanic and still get nervous when I do them along with replacing struts. If you've ever seen a spring come out after you, you know what I am talking about.
Jason
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Old Nov 18, 2003 | 10:19 PM
  #4  
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From: ny-lindy
Car: 1989 Iroc z hardtop
Engine: peanut LB9
Transmission: slopomatic TH700R4
IMO not worth it, i have tublar front LCA's only cause the cheapest shop around me wanted $60 a bushing to install them. so @ close to $300 for them alone. the tubalar ones where not much more cash.
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Old Nov 19, 2003 | 01:29 PM
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I had the bushings done at a local shop with a press and it was a JOB as they didnt want to budge.

Last edited by luke-gr; Nov 19, 2003 at 01:33 PM.
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Old Nov 20, 2003 | 02:03 PM
  #6  
hitman's Avatar
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From: Houston
Car: 1992 25th Ann. Z28
Engine: 5.7 TPI - Stock
Transmission: th700 r4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Thanks

I not going to take any chances with those springs... I'll look into having a shop do it for me. Any ideas as a fair price for labor??
Thanks guyz!
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Old Nov 20, 2003 | 02:12 PM
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ATOMonkey's Avatar
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From: Indianapolis IN
Most shops charge $30/hr minimum just for standing there. They'll hit you with machine time, parts, etc. too.
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Old Nov 20, 2003 | 02:33 PM
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I think my guys charged me an hour and a half labor to install the complete bushing kit, front and rear. That was me bringing in all control arms (front and rear) and they installed new ball joints, too. I ahve become quite proficient at removing and installing springs now that Ive dont it several times. I had to buy a $65 compressor and learn the "best way" to use it through trial and error.
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Old Nov 20, 2003 | 03:02 PM
  #9  
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From: North Carolina
Car: 1989 Firebird Formula
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08
I just replaced all my bushings myself . It wasnt the easiest job , but it certainly wasnt all that hard . I used a torch to burn all the rubber bushing out of the outer shell . Then I used a socket the size of the outer shell and a hammer , a couple of good whacks and it was out . THe hardest part was pressing the new ones in . I had to make up a press to do that out of a ball joint press and an end link bolt&nut , but it worked like a charm . Getting the springs back on the perches was the real PIA . Had to have help prying them back into place . A good spring compressor will help tremendously . I had a cheapo one that I couldnt get the spring compressed enough so I had to improvise , which is where the pry bars came into play .
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Old Nov 20, 2003 | 06:38 PM
  #10  
bes217's Avatar
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From: San Francisco,Ca area
I got them done for free!!!
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Old Nov 21, 2003 | 07:10 AM
  #11  
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From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
As a side note, check the a-arm itself. The end link sometimes 'ovals' the hole which houses it. I had it 'fixed' with a weld and grinder.

JamesC
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Old Nov 21, 2003 | 12:23 PM
  #12  
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From: ny-lindy
Car: 1989 Iroc z hardtop
Engine: peanut LB9
Transmission: slopomatic TH700R4
most shops around here charge about 65-80 an hour to work on my car
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