What do I need to do it?

A jack and jackstands?

It's just bolts on either end right? I've been procrastinating it for so long since I bent the stock one....

Any tips would be great.

 

Yep, just bolts in. The rear might shift to the side, so you might have to try to move it around some to get the bolt in.

 

Well, just so I dont start taking things apart and get screwed over.

All I do it jack the rear up, put jackstands under the axel tubes.

Then I use the jack to lift the cars weight off the rear suspension, unbolt the bar, and put the new one in?

 

Installing the Panhard rod was not hard at all. It Took longer to get the car in position to work on it than it did to install the bar.

1st thing - SAFETY! You will need a jack and jackstands. When I did mine I raised the car with a floor jack under the center of the rear differential. I then put jackstands under the jack postions in front of both rear wheels and lowered the car onto the stands. While the stands supported the weight I kept thejack in place raised under the differential for safety...

As for removal and installation you will need the appropriate socket and a breaker bar - that's probably not the right term for the tool but I don't know any better! It has the same function as a ratchet but it doesnot rotate. In addition to the breaker bar you will need a short piece of pipe - 16 to 24 inches that will slip over the breaker bar to give you a bit more leverage. I do know the name of this it is called a "Cheater bar." You will also need a wrench to hold the other side of the Nut/Bolt.

Before you begin (a few days) begin soaking the nuts/bolts that you will be working with with PB Blaster. There is only one on either side. Be sure to use Blaster - WD or Liquid Wrench just don't compare.

After getting the car positioned crawl under and using the breaker bar and cheater bar break lose the nuts. After you have them started you should be able to finish the job with a ratchet but the breaker/cheater will be necessary break things loose. You could use your ratchet but you stand a real good chance of damaging it.

Including raising and lowering the car it took me about 35minutes to get the job done.

Good Luck!
Speedy

 

Kroil owns all!

 

KROIL?????? Never heard of it. Where do you get it?

 

www.kanolabs.com

www.eastwood.com

 

Depending on how your undercarrage is rust wise dont be suprised if you break a bolt. And PB Blaster is real good stuff, definitely soak the crap outta the bolts a few days in advance.

 

I'm gonna put all new hardware in, not even gonna try and reuse them....I had to drop my driveshaft and torque arm before, and the 2 long bolts that hold the torque arm to the diff are a PITA cause of rust....I've got plenty of experience with rusty bolts. I know someone with a lift in his garage, not a drive on, I wonder if it would work for me?

 

When I did mine both bolts snapped. Unfortunately one of them snapped right at the nut, and it was frozen to the sleeve inside the panhard bar bushing. It wouldn't come out no matter how much I heated it up and banged on it. I had to use a Sawzall to cut the bolt on each side. It's a hard bolt...and it took awhile.

 

where'd you get the new bolts from?

 

Same question here, where did you get the new bolts/nuts?

 

Spohn sells panhard bar mounting kits for like 10 bucks. New bolts, washers and nuts.

 

Your friend's lift should work fine. The only reason I talked about jacking the car up above was for access. If you have access to a lift you must be living right!