I just converted my '88 GTA to an '89 PBR setup. I got a complete rearend from rotor to rotor. I have the condition where the line pressure is so low the rear brakes do not hold. For now, the main reason for the upgrade was to get a working parking brake so I can pass my local inspection. The used pads had plenty of material, but the rotors were worn. I tried my luck to see if they would work - they didn't!

A friend that knows his way around these brakes improved the grip, but told me a new set of rotors and pads should do the trick.

I have priced rotors and pads all over. Since I currently do not have much line pressure from the pedal and the rears are just along for the ride, I question whether I need the "high performance" grade. I have seen AIMCO standards for $89 each at Autozone and AIMCO "Extremes" that are directional that are less at $79 each. There's a Raybestos hi-po set that are directional and $58 each, a standard Raybestos that are $49 each, some Bendix rotors for $68, and on and on. The closest rotors to me are Wagner brand at an OReilly's. They are $41 each and I assume standard grade.

Between rotors and pads, I am curious which combo will work best for the parking brake function? I imagine the cheapest pads are fine. Would the standard grade rotors be thinner? At NAPA's online site, they have nice part details to view. The "discard" thickness is the same from the standard pads to the hi-po pads. I imagine the starting thickness is the same as well.

I've about had it with this parking brake and useless city inspection. Before I knew to upgrade to PBRs, I spent A LOT of money to put all new hardware on the rears to have a brake that barely holds (original '99 rear discs). Now I see the PBRs are finicky too. At least they are easier to service, and the adjustment appears to be more straightforward.

Any advice on rear rotors and pads is appreciated.

 

I'm going to be working on this same project soon, for the same reasons. I found rockauto.com and they are much cheaper for the rotors, with shipping I can get both of them for half the price of 1 rotor from autozone. They are Raybestos rotors too, not some cheap off the wall brand. For the pads I like something much more aggressive than stocks. I have the Hawk HP+ up front that I'm probably going to stick in the rear too. Most will think that they are a bit too noisey and dust too much, I would recommend the HPS instead, but a lot of people on this board like to use some bendix pads.

As for the pressure issue, I think I'll go with the correct '89 - '92 master cylinder for non 1LE cars and use an adjustable proportional valve instead of a stock unit. Then... just maybe... they'll work!

 

From experience, does anyone know if the more agressive pads help or hinder the parking brake? I know the for front pads, the higher performance material requires more heat and are not ideal for daily driving. If that same logic follows to the rears...?

 

Which ones are you going with, the Professional Grade or Brute Force?

I just checked them out. The prices are unreal!

 

My Hawks really don't need any heat to work at all, I'm sure the HPS pads (available from Jeg's) would operate at a lower temperature. I've also had the performance friction z rated pads all the way around and they would take a few stops to warm up, I do not recommend those any more.

I am going with the professional grade rotors. I can, but wont start a debate over rotor type now.

 

High performance pads such Performance Friction, Hawk ...etc DECREASE the holding abilty of the parking brake.

The reason being, is that our car's parking brakes were designed to use the standard OEM brake pads/compound. Any Carbon Metallic or similar performance pads will hold while the pads are hot, but as soon as they cool, the praking brake will no longer hold.

I can verify this with my own car. I'm using Hawk pads in the rear and I awalys set the parking brake, even with an A4 trans. Within minutes, the car will groan and roll backward slightly in my driveway. This is the rear pads losing grip.

I'm not too worried about it and will continue to run high performance pads. I want the improved braking they offer.

 

Thanks for confirming my concern! I am particular where I park this car, so outside of club outings and work, it goes no where. I need this stupid brake for one reason: pass a useless auto inspection each year.

Your reply really helps. I'll specify plain pads for this, and get a better set for later on when I work out the bugs in the rear braking pressure.

Thanks,
BrentD 88GTA

 

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