How easy is it to twist a unibody?
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Supreme Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,995
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
How easy is it to twist a unibody?
I'm worried my frame may be warped. I don't have SFCs on yet. I've got my mods in the sig, but only 2.73 open without very good traction and no hard launches. My friend says I'm fine, but my ground effects are starting to warp a little bit and that scares me.
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 659
Likes: 10
From: Clifton, NJ
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T-5... in need of slight rebuild
Although it is pretty easy to bend these cars there are quite a few that are raced in a series where subframe connectors aren't allowed. I highly recomend them, but they are not required. As for the ground effects not fitting 100%, they are plastic/rubber and old. Time and the elements tend to warp the plastic, so your ground effects are bending, not your car.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,995
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
whats the price to weld SFCs up? I have them, just not welded
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
whats the price to weld SFCs up?
I'd suggest having the first option on hand and in plain sight when you ask, and ask late on a Sat afternoon shortly before closing time.
I would recommend some suspenion work to anything that is pushing some horsepower......
You can't really twist it on daily driving scenerio's, it's going to take some hard lauches or road racing to show some problems.....
I'd still recommend SFC's though.....
You can't really twist it on daily driving scenerio's, it's going to take some hard lauches or road racing to show some problems.....
I'd still recommend SFC's though.....
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 13,775
Likes: 567
From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
A month after I lowered my car and added the wheels and tires my drive side door stuck out .25" from the fender and my passenger side door was recessed .25" from the fender. I did not have SFC at the time. The car had never been wrecked at that point and I had a body shop check it out. Sure enough the unibody was missallinged and it cost $180 to straighten it out. The "tweaking" was minimal but enough to have it be fixed. I wouldn't have believed it myself but I was shocked to say the least.
You can kinda see it in this pic.
You can kinda see it in this pic.
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Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 13,775
Likes: 567
From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
Originally posted by FLYNLOW92rs
[B]Whoa, Shifty, is the driver's door not lining up with the fender a sign of s twisted frame?................
I noticed this after TPI383 pointed it out........
[B]Whoa, Shifty, is the driver's door not lining up with the fender a sign of s twisted frame?................
I noticed this after TPI383 pointed it out........
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Joined: Oct 2003
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From: LaGrange (10min from Poughkeepsie), NY
Car: 1992 Camaro RS - not real slow anymore...
Engine: SPDC 360 MAF EFI /w a Holley Stealth Ram
Transmission: T5 untill it blows up from to much torque
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" /w auburn pro & 3.89's
wow, i thought it would be a lot more expensive than that to fix a bent uni body.:lala:
Last edited by Dirtbik3r; Aug 3, 2004 at 04:20 PM.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 13,775
Likes: 567
From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
Originally posted by Dirtbik3r
wow, i thought it would be a lot more expensive than that to fix a bent uni body.:lala:
wow, i thought it would be a lot more expensive than that to fix a bent uni body.:lala:
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,995
Likes: 0
From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
oh wow. things to take into consideration I suppose.
in any case my friend is tracking me down a welder who lives around here, and he said he'd probably do it for free. I can weld, but I just dont have access to a welder. I took three years of metal shop in HS. Welding is friggin simple. I'd rather not pay out the *** for someone to do it for me if I could do it myself.
Whats it cost to have the frame CHECKED for straightness then?
in any case my friend is tracking me down a welder who lives around here, and he said he'd probably do it for free. I can weld, but I just dont have access to a welder. I took three years of metal shop in HS. Welding is friggin simple. I'd rather not pay out the *** for someone to do it for me if I could do it myself.
Whats it cost to have the frame CHECKED for straightness then?
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 13,775
Likes: 567
From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
Originally posted by Token
Whats it cost to have the frame CHECKED for straightness then?
Whats it cost to have the frame CHECKED for straightness then?
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,967
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From: Elk Grove Village, IL
Car: 1989 TransAm GTA
Engine: One sweet modified 355 TPI.
Transmission: The kind that shifts....
If your fender doesn't line up with the door then check to see if it has been jacked up before by the fender. Just about every thirdgen I know has been jacked up that way at one time or another.
A pair of vice grips on the bottom of the fender and a good pull usually straighten it out.
Now, if its uneven, but there are no signs of improper jacking then you may have a problem.....
A pair of vice grips on the bottom of the fender and a good pull usually straighten it out.
Now, if its uneven, but there are no signs of improper jacking then you may have a problem.....
Im pretty sure my car is at least a little tweaked too and i just have my sfc's bolted in right now. Should I wait to weld them until after I get it straightend if it needs it, or take them all the way out?? Or wont they affect the process?
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 13,775
Likes: 567
From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
Originally posted by LaxStreetRacer
Im pretty sure my car is at least a little tweaked too and i just have my sfc's bolted in right now. Should I wait to weld them until after I get it straightend if it needs it, or take them all the way out?? Or wont they affect the process?
Im pretty sure my car is at least a little tweaked too and i just have my sfc's bolted in right now. Should I wait to weld them until after I get it straightend if it needs it, or take them all the way out?? Or wont they affect the process?
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 19,282
Likes: 103
From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
You can't really twist it on daily driving scenerio's, it's going to take some hard lauches or road racing to show some problems.....
I disagree. Take a look at coupes for example. Many, including my 85 IROC, have slight cracks just in back of the drip rail, and apparently these have formed from normal driving: everything from speed bumps to sloped drives, to perhaps age. At any rate, I don't beat on my car.
JamesC
I disagree. Take a look at coupes for example. Many, including my 85 IROC, have slight cracks just in back of the drip rail, and apparently these have formed from normal driving: everything from speed bumps to sloped drives, to perhaps age. At any rate, I don't beat on my car.
JamesC
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 19,282
Likes: 103
From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
True. My point was that our cars twist enough under normal driving conditions to produce stress cracks.
JamesC
JamesC
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,467
Likes: 7
From: MA, USA
Car: 83 bird
Engine: 305/383
Transmission: WC T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
I think I win for the worst allignment!
I have had my hood, doors, fenders, and hatch alligned from a body shop to where they should be, and the door looks like this! You think it's unibody problems?
I have had my hood, doors, fenders, and hatch alligned from a body shop to where they should be, and the door looks like this! You think it's unibody problems?
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