Subframe connector question
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,029
Likes: 2
From: Ohio
Car: 88' Iroc-Z
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Subframe connector question
Ok I was going to have a local guy put in a set of subframe connectors for me but i have a question. I know the suspension id going to be loaded, but i wanted to have them put in before i put the motor, interior, and exhaust on. Can I do this or should i wait? I've been thinking about it, and it's probably a dumb question. But I don't know how much the suspension geometry will change after it gets a drivetrain and interior. I'm also lowering the car so i figured I would have the springs in before I get the SFC's in.
I am doing the same thing you are. The car had a 305 and 700r4 that I took out to install a crate motor and t56. I decided to wait until the swap was complete before welding in the sfc. That way I will not have to worry about the weight difference. The only reason I wanted to weld them in before the swap is they give you more options where to put jackstands
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,029
Likes: 2
From: Ohio
Car: 88' Iroc-Z
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
i could wait until the engine and transmission are in. but would the interior have to be in? would it make that much of a difference?
you should be fine waiting doing the sfc before the interior. Save the interior for very last and you wont have to lift the carpet back up when you weld the sfc in the car. On my last car I called the welding shop to schedule the sfc. They said get it ready and bring it over. I took out the passenger seat and unbolted the drivers. I also took some boards I could slip under the carpet so it wouldnt burn. When I got to the shop they said they no longer had time to weld in the sfc
Last edited by AustinT; Aug 8, 2004 at 02:32 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 739
Likes: 0
From: "When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro." -RIPHST
Car: 1991 RS
Engine: 383TBI Fastburns and 2"TB
Transmission: T56 held up by Spohnstuff
Originally posted by AustinT
you should be fine waiting doing the sfc before the interior. Save the interior for very last and you wont have to lift the carpet back up when you weld the sfc in the car. On my last car I called the welding shop to schedule the sfc. They said get it ready and bring it over. I took out the passenger seat and unbolted the drivers. I also took some boards I could slip under the carpet so it wouldnt burn. When I got to the shop they said they no longer had time to weld in the sfc
you should be fine waiting doing the sfc before the interior. Save the interior for very last and you wont have to lift the carpet back up when you weld the sfc in the car. On my last car I called the welding shop to schedule the sfc. They said get it ready and bring it over. I took out the passenger seat and unbolted the drivers. I also took some boards I could slip under the carpet so it wouldnt burn. When I got to the shop they said they no longer had time to weld in the sfc
Si-
The interior won't make much difference. I would think it a plus since you won't have to worry about the carpet burning up. I would make sure the motor and trans are in though.
Austin-
What is up with the crappy welding shop commiting to doing the work and then welching?
That is lame!
Time to buy a welder and get at it yourself!? Did you get them in?
Best
S-D
Austin-
What is up with the crappy welding shop commiting to doing the work and then welching?
That is lame!
Time to buy a welder and get at it yourself!? Did you get them in?
Best
S-D
What is up with the crappy welding shop commiting to doing the work and then welching?
That is lame!
Time to buy a welder and get at it yourself!? Did you get them in?
Best
S-D
Not to hijack your thread but I have read that some guys would install 2 sets of sfc. One set on the pinchweld of the car and another that goes directly between the two frames. I have the kenny brown sfc. Do you think I need a set to connect the two frames?
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Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,029
Likes: 2
From: Ohio
Car: 88' Iroc-Z
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
man its fine thats something i was wondering about also Ive heard a few different companies make sfc's that can be used with another set. I guess kinda like an inside and outside set. Anyone know what companies make these?
i would do it myself but for one i dont have a lift and i to only have a 110 MIG welder
i would do it myself but for one i dont have a lift and i to only have a 110 MIG welder
TDS sells a set that will work with some other sets. I cant remember the name of them off the top of my head (alston )something like that?
Do a search and a guy here at thirdgen has installed 2 sfc sets. I emailed him and he had since sold the car but said it was worth it. I dont race this is just my daily driver, Im not sure if it is worth 2 sfc sets. I just dont want the body to start to sag with the larger motor. The car has 39,000 miles and feels brand new. Hopefully I can keep it that way
The mig welder I have access to also is only 110 volt. I wouldnt even want to try it with a arc. I thought about digging a hole with the backhoe in some stable ground and driving over it to weld
Do a search and a guy here at thirdgen has installed 2 sfc sets. I emailed him and he had since sold the car but said it was worth it. I dont race this is just my daily driver, Im not sure if it is worth 2 sfc sets. I just dont want the body to start to sag with the larger motor. The car has 39,000 miles and feels brand new. Hopefully I can keep it that way
i would do it myself but for one i dont have a lift and i to only have a 110 MIG welder
Hey guys, I'm a little new to this, so this maybe another dumb questions.
I am doing pretty much the same thing right now. I was thinking getting the rust out, taking it down to bare metal, welding in the sfcs and then painting the whole thing with underbody coating. twice.
If sfc's only connect to frame/subframe, how is geometry going to change when suspension is in? I also have one of those 110v arc/mig welders (I think its 85 amp max). I know mig is cooler than arc, but why wouldn't you try arc on it?
And from the sound of it, I take it welding them on while the car is on jackstands is a bad idea? or is it doable?
I am doing pretty much the same thing right now. I was thinking getting the rust out, taking it down to bare metal, welding in the sfcs and then painting the whole thing with underbody coating. twice.
If sfc's only connect to frame/subframe, how is geometry going to change when suspension is in? I also have one of those 110v arc/mig welders (I think its 85 amp max). I know mig is cooler than arc, but why wouldn't you try arc on it?
And from the sound of it, I take it welding them on while the car is on jackstands is a bad idea? or is it doable?
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,029
Likes: 2
From: Ohio
Car: 88' Iroc-Z
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
good point everyone said have the suspension loaded but i dont think the subframe would stretch or shorten??? For real who can explain the reasoning behind having the suspension fully loaded?
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 739
Likes: 0
From: "When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro." -RIPHST
Car: 1991 RS
Engine: 383TBI Fastburns and 2"TB
Transmission: T56 held up by Spohnstuff
I had mine on jackstands when I put in the sfcs.
But, I made sure to support the vehicle with the stands on the rear axle and on the front a-arms, where the weight would be if the car was on the ground.
This worked well.
When the car does not have sfcs installed and it is supported at points other than where I mentioned, the body can bend. If the sfcs are put in while the body is bent, it could make doors rub when opened and so on.
I initially had mine supported behind the front wheel and in front of the rear wheel and tried to open the door. It was noticably tight. That is when I decided to put the stands under the rear axle and under each a-arm before welding in the sfcs.
Just make sure that when you have the vehicle supported, that the doors and hatch open and close as smoothly on the stands as they did when it was on the ground.
The sfc's make a huge difference in the stiffness of the car.
I see no reason why stick wouldn't work- maybe a 6011 rod for good penetration and vertical /overhead welds. The mig is nice because a lot of the work angles are out of position (not flat) and space is at a premium in the areas being welded.
S-D
But, I made sure to support the vehicle with the stands on the rear axle and on the front a-arms, where the weight would be if the car was on the ground.
This worked well.
When the car does not have sfcs installed and it is supported at points other than where I mentioned, the body can bend. If the sfcs are put in while the body is bent, it could make doors rub when opened and so on.
I initially had mine supported behind the front wheel and in front of the rear wheel and tried to open the door. It was noticably tight. That is when I decided to put the stands under the rear axle and under each a-arm before welding in the sfcs.
Just make sure that when you have the vehicle supported, that the doors and hatch open and close as smoothly on the stands as they did when it was on the ground.
The sfc's make a huge difference in the stiffness of the car.
I see no reason why stick wouldn't work- maybe a 6011 rod for good penetration and vertical /overhead welds. The mig is nice because a lot of the work angles are out of position (not flat) and space is at a premium in the areas being welded.
S-D
Originally posted by AustinT
TDS sells a set that will work with some other sets. I cant remember the name of them off the top of my head (alston )something like that?
Do a search and a guy here at thirdgen has installed 2 sfc sets. I emailed him and he had since sold the car but said it was worth it....
TDS sells a set that will work with some other sets. I cant remember the name of them off the top of my head (alston )something like that?
Do a search and a guy here at thirdgen has installed 2 sfc sets. I emailed him and he had since sold the car but said it was worth it....
It is best if they are fitted at the same time and before any custom exhaust work is done.
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