cdh67

Ok with all the brake kits and conversions out there for our cars its kinda of confusing on what to do?
My first idea- LS1 brakes front and rear. Then get Baer Eardispeed +1 rotors for a 4th gen. This would give me 14" two-piece rotors front and two piece rotors for the rear. Plus the caliper says Camaro-correct? Amount: 800+ for front 400-500 for the rear.
2nd Idea- Wilwood (Spohns) kit for the front -and Ls1 for the rear. The only problem is finding a two piece rotor for the front.
The other thing that bothers me is I would like to be able to get spare parts locally. This is causing some problems with what I want.
Also I would like to build a hub out of aluminum instead of just machining the stock rotors. Does anyone have the measurements of the hub after machining? What about making it fit the 1LE outer bearings? Also could it be designed to move the rotor back to the stock location?(Or will it ultimately matter) I would like to keep the stock scrub radius. I know sixtoy has some GW hubs but they move the wheel out. Not sure how much. Just some ideas I had. Someone chime in here and just say your crazy please!

vsixtoy

I am not certain yet on the offset of the aluminium GW hubs. I have yet to measure them exactly with the current rotors I have.
I had mentioned in a previous post that they set the tire outward slightly by the looks of them (I have had stock rotors in my hands so many times in the past few years I can tell you for certain its slightly different without even pulling them to measure).

HOWEVER, I have the 10.5" (Non-1le) brakes up front and they are shallower offset than the 1le's to begin with. My guess would be that the GW hubs will set the rim about the exact same offset as the stock 1LE rotors do. I run a 1/2" front spacer right now anyways because I run 4 "rears" IROC rims so I can rotate. DOesn't matter where it sits to me, its close enough that I will most likely still space it 1/4" if necessary to get it to the stock 1LE scrub pattern again, then again it may be about perfect without. Again, I have "rears" offset on the front.

ALSO note that I have to have my IROC rims machined larger in the hub area to fit the larger hubcentric portion of the GW aluminium hubs. The bolt pattern is the same but the hub centric portion around the outer bearing is thicker machined due to being aluminium. These are heavy duty G-body hubs that will hold up no problem to a 4000lb roadrace car- and tested not to crack. The wilwoods dragrace aluminium hubs have cracked on road applications. Doug at GW specially made these hubs for Wilwood on a roadrace prototype project they were working on. He still has the original CAD file and made me a set. $500 for hubs, races, and bearing in case any are wondering.

Edit: I am still waiting on the custom brackets I designed and ordered from emachineshop, They are claiming Sept 1st I will have them. Then I can fit and measure everthing final. to compare the offset with my stock setup.

Matthew91-Z28

On a side note, I'm attempting a custom bracket also and planning on using emachine shop. I have downloaded to program and have been toying with it a bit. Any tips on getting the holes lined up and how far apart (where the spindle bolts slide through). What size bolts are you using to attacht the bracket to the spindle?


I was going to use a thin plexi template so I could see how everything lined up and then just use my dimensions off of that for the program.

I guess I just need a little direction. Any help would be great.

cdh67

Send me the dimension and I can design it in autocad or inventor.

vsixtoy

What I did first was cneter point the x & y axis' on their graph to start the bolt hole radius'. The 0.000 Lat, and 0.000 long. can be used as the center of the spindle. From this point put in a radius of both the "spindle to bracket holes" and a circle radius for the "bracket to caliper holes" You'll erase these later.

From this point you can go vertical on the center 0.00 line and then off to both left and right sides equal distance for the bolt holes using the coordinace readout at the lower right (lat & long readings based on cursor position- zoom in alot, it helps to be very accurate) My example below is a 4.82"spread on the "spindle to bracket" bolt pattern- I then went 2.41" left and right of the axis line and pinpointed the cursor directly on top of the radius circle with the left and right reading on each side individually at -2.41" left and +2.41" right hole. Enlarge circle with the proper hole size tyuped in above and your set. Then erase the radius cistarting circle for this and move to the next out two holes.

After positioning the four bolt holes, then decide how much material outside of them you want to design your bracket based on the strength of material you are using.

Hope this helps.

vsixtoy

Finished results for my application (can't post the 3d view, it wouldn't let me print it)

vsixtoy

Spindle bolt hole & size modification, via Baer brakes. 3/8"-24

vsixtoy

Note: The drawing above showing the "spindle modification" is not a "to scale" drawing. The two holes that are modified no way look to be the same distance (radius) from the center axis of the spindle, but they are exactly the same distance @ 3.325" radius.

vsixtoy

I measured the offset in relation to the spindle shown below.

X - from the face of the spindle where the brackets bolt to- to the hub face. = 2.840"

Y - The thickness of the hat. = .310"

Z - Total offset from spindle bracket bolt face to overall outer face where the wheel bolts up to. = 3.150"

ebmiller88

iTrader: (7)

IMO, it's not worth it. 14" rotors are very expensive, especially in a 2 piece design..you're looking at $500 for rotors only. Then you have to fab up the whole brake system to fit them...calipers and all. Then you get to the hubs...another $500 or so. I know what Dean has done and it's very impressive, but waayyy out of my league and interest. If you're looking for a totally custom setup like his, you'll need to talk to him.

Going to a +1 brake setup also requires a different bracket to move the calipers out. Now this setup won't clear a 17" wheel more than likely, so you're looking at new wheels.

All brake kits of this design will move the wheels out...period. You really can't move the wheels in any further or you won't be able to fit the caliper bracket in between the spindle and rotor, there's just no room.

Ed

Matthew91-Z28

I'm still taking it all in. Sorry have not replied in a couple days. Been way involved in other non-car crap. Anyway.......Man, I appreciate all your help and insight. Will start working on this soon and let you know if I get lost. Huge help. Thanks again!

vsixtoy

I'll let everyone in on a little secret- Narrowed outboard body calipers. This is how I am keeping my wheel in tight to the spindle. I have choosen a hat that sits the rotor inboard for less unspung weight leverage, and using the "rears" iroc rims on the front also helps with postioning the rim where ever I want it (setting scrub radius when finished) via longer racing studs and wheel spacers if needed (we are talking very minimal spacing- ex 1/4" max., and no fender rubbing.)

vsixtoy

Minimal clearance between rotor and caliper bracket- yet allowing for enough room for heavy torsional loading on the rotor (sideways flex of the spindle under hard cornering). Last thing you want is too tight of a gap thus creating rotor to bracket contact under torsional load- not safe.

ebmiller88

iTrader: (7)

Nice Dean, very nice...and thanks for the added info.


Ed

cdh67

The plus one eardi come with a new carrier bracket that spaces the caliper out for the new rotors. So now you can do the LS1conversion and just get the Eardi conversion and you have 13" brakes with two piece rotors for around 1400bucks front and rear. And I will just make a new hub. Gonna send my old rotors out to be cut down. Cast Iron is too messy to even bother centering it up at home. Then I will just design some aluminum ones with the bigger 1LE bearing.

ebmiller88

iTrader: (7)

Why not just save a bit of cash and do the C5 conversion then? They're 12.75" rotors and you won't notice the difference between those and 13" rotors. Seems like too much work to me, but then to each his own. Good luck!

Ed